Month: August 2019

Il report della 26° edizione di Ice Climbing Ecrins, il classico raduno internazionale di arrampicata su ghiaccio che si è svolto dal 14 – 17 gennaio 2016 a L’Argentière-la Bessée in Francia.

L’Ice Climbing Ecrins si è tenuto dal 14 al 17 gennaio 2016 a L’Argentière-La Bessée ed ancora una volta si è dimostrato essere un festival internazionale di grande successo. Questa 26esima edizione ha attirato oltre 500 partecipanti durante i 3 giorni di intensa arrampicata e feste. Il punto di forza del festival sta sicuramente nel fatto che è aperto a chiunque voglia provare a camminare in inverno con le racchette da neve, fare sci alpinismo, freeride e arrampicata su ghiaccio. Inoltre, l’Ice Climbing Ecrins offre ai partecipanti l’opportunità di approfondire e migliorare le proprie conoscenze pratiche di queste attività grazie alle 37 guide alpine coinvolte nel festival.

Workshop specifici sono stati organizzati da aziende ed altri partner durante questi tre giorni: La Sportiva ha dimostrato la progressione base con i ramponi, CAMP ha offerto un training individuale con Stéphanie Maureau (vincitrice a Saas Fee ed altre tappe della Coppa del Mondo di Ghiaccio), una notte speciale è stata organizzata da Beal, Black Diamond aveva riservato un workshop esclusivamente dedicato alle donne guidato dall’atleta Rahel Schelb, mentre Petzl, a Cervières, ha dato una dimostrazione pratica della resistenza del ghiaccio. E per diversificare ulteriormente le varie attività proposte, i partecipanti hanno anche potuto testare prodotti e iscriversi a workshop di sci alpinismo, racchette da neve e freeride.

In particolare quest’anno gli workshop dell’Ice Climbing Ecrins erano incentrati sulla sicurezza in alta montagna, con corsi su ricerca di persone travolte in valanga, la conoscenza della nivologia, la preparazione necessaria per affrontare una salita in montagna… in breve, i partecipanti non hanno avuto modo per annoiarsi durante questa 26° edizione!

Alpinisti appartenente al gruppo sportivo giovanile del Club Alpino francese (FFCAM) hanno partecipato all’Ice Climbing Ecrins con il loro raduno annuale, durante il quale oltre 60 ragazzi e ragazze sono stati allenati da Christophe Moulin, alpinista e co-fondatore di questo gruppo giovanile chiamato "Excellence". A Freissinières alcuni hanno poi ripetuto le cascate di ghiaccio Impatience e Les larmes de Nicodème, o Happy Together a Gramusat, mentre a L’Argentière-la-Bessée è stata dedicata una serata speciale proprio a questi giovani ice climber.

Ogni anno l’Ice Climbing Ecrins organizza anche una gara internazionale di dry-tooling. Le qualifiche si sono svolte presso l’Horloge, sopra l’Argentière-la-Bessée, attrezzato appositamente per il festival. Lì Max Bonniot, Jeff Mercier e lo sloveno Klemen Premrl hanno dato spettacolo. La gara di velocità femminile è stata vinta da Coralie Jary seguita da Stéphanie Maureau, mentre nella gara maschile Xavier Gaillard ha battuto Pierre Alexandre Keller. Stéphanie Maureau, evidentemente in grande forma, ha vinto poi la gara di difficoltà, davanti a Camille Marot e Coralie Jary. Octave Garbolino invece si è aggiudicato la gara maschile di difficoltà, seguito da Symon Welfringer e Xavier Cailhol.

Da 26 anni il Festival Ice Climbing Ecrins è un evento speciale perché riunisce i migliori ice climber del mondo con degli assoluti principianti, gli amanti della montagna in tutte le sue forme ma anche gli abitanti di Argentière che evidentemente non aspettano altro per fare festa! Le celebrazioni infatti hanno continuato ogni sera con film, spettacoli e concerti, e alla fine più di 2000 persone hanno ballato fino a notte inoltrata seguendo le note di Nuru Kan e la band Bayefall Gnawa.

07/12/2007 – Freissinières – l’eldorado ghiacciato dei francesi
10 cascate da non perdere nel Parco Nazionale degli Ecrins presentate dalla Guida Alpina Mario Sertori.

Info:  www.ice-climbing-ecrins.com

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Il climber inglese Tom Ballard ha liberato A Line Above the Sky nella falesia Tomorrow’s World, in Dolomiti. Se il grado di D15 viene confermato, si tratterebbe della più difficile via di drytooling al mondo.

D15. A quattro anni della famosa via Ironman salita da Robert Jasper ad Eptingen in Svizzera e gradata D14+, ecco che arriva la proposta di un nuovo grado nel mondo del total dry. Un universo caratterizzato da piccozze, ramponi e assenza di ghiaccio (ecco quindi il prefisso D per dry e non M per Misto) ed una roccia sempre più complicata ed ultra-strapiombante… A metterci la faccia e suggerire questo passo in avanti è Tom Ballard che al cospetto della Marmolada in Dolomiti ha coltivato il suo particolare “giardino inglese”, chiamato Tomorow’s World, di cui già a metà gennaio avevamo dato notizia. Dopo quella che lui stesso definisce “una deludente performance” in Coppa del Mondo, ora Ballard è riuscito a canalizzare le sue energie per completare l’ultimo progetto rimasto in sospeso: A Line Above the Sky, una linea sopra il cielo. 50 estenuanti metri tutti naturali che potrebbero essere la via di total dry tooing più difficile al mondo. Ora la parola passa agli eventuali ripetitori… Intanto Tom Ballard ci ha raccontato

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A LINE ACROSS THE SKY di Tom Ballard

Alcuni membri della squadra inglese di arrampicata su ghiaccio sono venuti a trovarmi tra la Coppa del Mondo di Saas Fee e quella di Corvara. E, ovviamente, dovevano assolutamente visitare ‘il mio tetto segreto’. La via “Real Steal” è stata ripetuta varie volte. Il forte sebbene piccolo Scott G mi ha mostrato una nuova sequenza su “The Fear Index”. Will Woodhead si è tolto la maglietta (di nuovo!). Eimir McSwiggan ha scavato dentro di sé e, facendo una serie di Yaniro, è riuscita a salire “Fear Index”, questa si è rivelata essere la prima ripetizione! Dimostrando quanto l’allenamento in Corea abbia dato i suoi frutti. Il croato Damir Behlic era stato lì il giorno prima e aveva centrato la prima ripetizione di “Edge of Tomorrow”, confermandone il grado. Così il ‘tetto’ ora ha una reputazione internazionale!

Corvara è stata deludente per me, o meglio la mia prestazione lo è stata, non la gara che è stata fantastica. Era la mia ultima possibilità di riscattare i miei tre precedenti tristi risultati. Le vie si presentavano più ripide e avevano un sacco di ghiaccio, avrei dovuto eccellere visto che, teoricamente, sono un “vero” ice climber. Nelle altre gare avevo sprecato troppo tempo cercando di capire come utilizzare le prese ed avevo esaurito tutto il tempo a disposizione. Tranne in Corea dove sembrava, per chi mi guardava ma anche per me, che non avessi mai usato un paio di piccozze in vita mia. Inevitabilmente sono caduto… A Corvara non ero motivato di assistere alle finali sotto la pioggia, a prescindere di quanto fossero belle le prestazioni degli atleti, ben fatto Janez Svoljšak!

L’eroe di Ouray, Ryan Vachon, aveva sentito parlare della mia ‘sorprendente grotta’ ed era alloggiato nello stesso albergo del team britannico. Così, insieme ai suoi amici del Colorado Chris Snobeck e Susan Owens, mi ha dato un passaggio a ‘casa’. Per un soffio Eimir non è riuscita a qualificarsi per la finale, chiudendo la gara con un impressionante nono posto, era entusiasta anche lei di ritornare in grotta. Le prime parole degli statunitensi quando hanno visto il ‘tetto’ sono state: “Dio mio”!

Dopo il riscaldamento sulla via di D9, sono andato a tentare l’ultimo progetto… a metà sezione chiave sono caduto… Non ero stanco, ma avevo le mani fredde. Ho sfilato la corda e sono subito ripartito… molla i piedi, molla i piedi un’altra volta, clippa la corda, un’altra volta, la fine sembrava non avvicinarsi mai, poi non mi ricordavo una presa, avevo fatto cadere il gesso quando stavo provando la via e cosi le ultime prese non erano ‘segnate’. Le mie mani stavano slittando, le dita si stavano aprendo, ma in qualche modo sono riuscito a continuare fino in catena! Wow!

Tutte le vie sono state salite in puro stile DTS*, niente Yaniro quindi, e sono state gradate di conseguenza. Questa è la via più difficile che io abbia mai salito. Ci sono alcuni movimenti molto ampi di ‘spalla’, e devi continuare a scalare per quasi 50 metri!

Ora l’appassionato, giovane canadese Noah Beek è qui, e sta arrampicando alla grande! Ha già fatto la seconda ripetizione di “Edge of Tomorrow” e sta tentando qualcosa di più difficile…

Il grado D15 è giustificato? Credo di sì, ma qualcuno dovrà ripeterla… Venite a provarla, se pensate di esserne capaci!

*DTS, un acronimo per Dry-Tooling Style, indica che si deve arrampicare senza eseguire il movimento Yaniro (anche chiamato Figure Four). DTS richiede un buon uso dei piedi e, secondo molti esponenti del drytooling, offre una sfida maggiore e un’arrampicata più interessante, nota dell’editore.

di Tom Ballard

Tom Ballard ringrazia: C.A.M.P. Cassin, GM, S.C.A.R.P.A.,Virna Pierobon Projects, Montane

*DTS, un acronimo per Dry-Tooling Style, indica arrampicare senza eseguire il movimento Yaniro (anche chiamato Figure Four). DTS richiede un buon uso dei piedi e secondo molti esponenti del drytooling offre una sfida maggiore ed un’arrampicata più interessante, nota dell’editore.

NEWS TOM BALLARD
18/01/2016 – Arrampicando nelle Dolomiti verso il futuro
20/03/2015 – Tom Ballard completa le sei nord delle Alpi in inverno ed in solitaria
15/10/2014 – Tom Ballard, l’arrampicata nelle vene

Local governments told to provide accurate information to authorities

Authorities have found a series of problems while carrying out the third national land survey, warning local governments and natural resource departments to fulfill their responsibilities.

The problems were outlined on Friday by the Ministry of Natural Resources and the central government supervision team, and involved 20 provinces, municipalities and autonomous regions.

In Qinghai province, for example, local natural resources department and supervisory teams were blamed for not taking the field surveys seriously, nor did they urge that uncovered problems be corrected in accordance with rules and regulations.

In Yulin, Shaanxi province, entities did not fully carry out the investigation responsibly, resulting in imprecise outcomes, and county-level authorities deliberately changed and forged mapping data.

“Those cases reflected problems, such as poor quality surveys and data accuracy. I hope that will be a warning for future work,” said Wang Guanghua, vice-minister of natural resources.

He said the ministry will not tolerate the forging of data.

The third national land survey was launched in 2017 by the State Council, aiming to thoroughly check the status of the country’s land use, collect accurate data, and improve the mechanism of surveys and statistics.

Survey items include cataloging the use of land resources, ownership, and natural and economic conditions. Permanent, basic farmland will be a focus in the survey, which is expected to be unveiled to the public in 2020.

Currently, all 2,873 counties in China have finished the field investigation and quality review for the first round of the survey. After September, the ministry will work with local natural resource departments to double check the results with updated information. The deadline for the final survey result is the end of the year.

According to Wang, data from 326 counties have been reviewed by the natural resources department at provincial level and are now under review at the state level.

Zhu Liuhua, deputy director of the State Council’s supervision team on the third national land survey, said the survey is supported by advanced remote sensing technology to guarantee the accuracy of the results.

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Zhu said satellite remote imaging with resolution higher than one meter has been introduced as the base mapping for the survey, and cloud computing will help to review the map with pictures being taken at all sites by local professionals.

China’s second national land survey was conducted between 2007 and 2009. The country’s first national land survey ended in 1996. According to the second national land survey, China has about 135 million hectares of arable land.

Guizhou city’s revolutionary history and wealth of cultural sites prove a hit with tourists

GUIYANG – Tao Huabi, founder of the Lao Gan Ma chili sauce brand so beloved by overseas Chinese students, comes from the city of Zunyi, in Southwest China’s Guizhou province.

The acid, red soil in Zunyi, rich in chili peppers, is also home to red sorghum, the raw material of many famous Chinese liquor brands such as Moutai.

But despite these claims to fame, for many Chinese the city will forever be known as the home of the Zunyi Meeting held by the Chinese Red Army.

Bridge different ages

In January 1935, an enlarged meeting of the Political Bureau of the Communist Party of China Central Committee was held in Zunyi during the Long March.

The meeting focused on rectifying the left-leaning errors in military and organizational affairs and established the correct leadership of the new Central Committee, as represented by Mao Zedong.

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BEIJING – Five novels have won this year’s Mao Dun Literature Prize, one of the four highest literature awards in China, the prize’s organizer unveiled Friday.

The five novels, respectively written by Liang Xiaosheng, Xu Huaizhong, Xu Zechen, Chen Yan and Li Er, won the prize, which is awarded every four years, according to the China Writers Association.

The winners were chosen from 234 candidates after six rounds of reviews and votes.

An awarding ceremony will be held in October in Beijing.

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Injury has been added to insult for the Blaugrana as the striker had to be taken off in the first half of the club’s defeat to Athletic Bilbao

Luis Suarez is out for an indefinite period after injuring his right calf in Barcelona’s La Liga loss to Athletic Bilbao on Friday, the club have confirmed.

The 32-year-old striker had to be replaced before half-time at San Mames after receiving treatment following a shot that hit the post.

Lionel Messi missed the match with a calf issue of his own, suffered shortly before Barca travelled to the United States for two friendly matches against Napoli last week.

It was the first time in 10 years that Barca started their league campaign without the Argentine and both players’ absences were felt as Ernesto Valverde’s men succumbed to a stunning late winner from Athletic veteran Aritz Aduriz.

After he was treated on the field, Suarez was ultimately unable to continue and was taken off in the 37th minute, replaced by Rafinha. 

“Tests carried out on Saturday morning have confirmed Luis Suarez has an injured right calf,” Barca said in a statement.

“His recovery will dictate his return to action.”

Suarez’s early withdrawal was the first time he has been substituted in the first half of a La Liga game since he joined Barca from Liverpool in 2014.

The Uruguayan netted 25 times in all competitions for the Catalan giants last season and will look to play another pivotal role in their ambitions to retain the title when he returns from injury. 

The champions suddenly look light on forwards, with Philippe Coutinho set to join Bayern Munich on loan with a view to a permanent deal.

However, Messi is making good progress according to head coach Ernesto Valverde, although he is yet to train with the team. 

The forward did not feature in any of Barca’s pre-season matches, after returning late from international duty at the Copa America. 

Messi and Suarez netted 76 goals between them last season, with goalscoring duties now likely to fall to Antoine Greizmann and Ousmane Dembele as Barca prepare for their next league encounter against Real Betis. 

Griezmann debuted against Athletic, but Suarez’s injury and Coutinho’s departure could see Barca ramp up their interest in former player Neymar, who looks increasingly likely to leave Paris Saint-Germain.

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The star striker spoke about his soon-to-be team-mate following the German giants” draw on the opening weekend

Robert Lewandowski believes Philippe Coutinho will make a seamless transition to Bayern Munich after the Bundesliga champions agreed to a deal to sign the Barcelona playmaker.

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Coutinho is set to join Bayern on loan for the 2019-20 season – the deal including an option to buy the Brazil international – after the German giants and Barca confirmed on Friday that an agreement is in place.

Bayern have been desperate to reinforce their squad following the departures of Franck Ribery and Arjen Robben, and the conclusion of James Rodriguez’s loan deal from Real Madrid.

Ivan Perisic arrived after a serious knee injury scuppered Bayern’s attempts to sign Manchester City star Leroy Sane, and Coutinho is poised to follow in Munich.

“I don’t think he’ll need that much time to adapt to our system and ideas,” Lewandowski told reporters of Coutinho after scoring twice in Bayern’s 2-2 draw at home to Hertha Berlin in the club’s Bundesliga opener.

“I think he’s the sort of player that can settle in without many problems.”

Coutinho has struggled to cement his place at Camp Nou since joining Barca in a reported €160 million (£146m/$177.5m) transfer from Liverpool in January 2018.

The 27-year-old scored five league goals as Barca retained their LaLiga crown in 2018-19, while he managed 11 in all competitions.

It was not all good news following Friday’s agreement as Bayern midfielder Renato Sanches vented his frustration with his lack of playing time.

Sanches – who has struggled since joining from Benfica in 2016 – made a brief appearance against Hertha, the Portuguese an 85th-minute replacement for Thomas Muller.

Upset with the situation following two unsuccessful attempts to leave, the 21-year-old Sanches said: “Of course I’m disappointed, it’s the second time the club has not let me go, five minutes is not enough for me.”

Asked about Sanches’ comments, Bayern head coach Niko Kovac added: “I cannot say anything about that, I did not speak to him.”

It doesn’t get any easier for Bayern, as they attempt to atone for their opening day draw, with their next league fixture coming away at Schalke on August 24.

The Portuguese star’s marketability has been used for an interesting and amusing purpose

Cristiano Ronaldo has performed a hilarious dance routine in a bizarre advertisement for Singapore company Shopee.

The Juventus striker is the star of the commercial for the south-east Asian business, which is a leading online shopping platform in the region.

In the advertisment, Ronaldo curls a free kick into the back of the net before performing his trademark goal celebration.

But after members of the crowd access the Shopee app, Ronaldo is shown an orange card by the referee, is transformed into an jersey of the same colour and breaks into the ‘Go Shopee’ dance.

Once the dance routine is completed, the 34-year-old attacker announces that consumers should ‘buy everything at Shopee’.

It’s not the first time Ronaldo’s marketabilty has been used in strange commercials, having appeared in an advertisement for Israeli communications company HOT in which he says he is faster than the internet speed they are offering.

While the ex-Real Madrid and Manchester United forward was also deployed in a Japanese advertisement for a facial fitness tool.

Ronaldo missed a Juventus intra-squad match on Wednesday and it is unknown whether he will play in Saturday’s friendly against Serie C team Triestina, with the Serie A season set to kickoff next week

His first league match will come on August 24 versus Parma as Juventus begin their campaign to win a ninth consecutive Scudetto.

In a recent exclusive DAZN  documentary titled The Making Of , Ronaldo explained the differences he believes there is between himself and fellow superstar Lionel Messi .

“In the case of Messi, he is an excellent player,” Ronaldo said in the production.

“Not only for the Ballons d’Or he has won but for also being a player who was always at the top year after year, just like me.

“The difference with me is that I’ve played for different clubs and I also won the Champions League with different clubs.

“I was the top scorer in the Champions League six times in a row.”

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The Germany boss says despite the severe knee injury, the winger will be ready for next summer’s UEFA showpiece event

Germany head coach Joachim Low believes injured Manchester City winger Leroy Sane will be fit in time to take part in next summer’s European Championships.

The Germany and former Schalke star seemed set for a stunning return to the Bundesliga with Bayern Munich this summer as a deal with City was reportedly close.

But Sane went down injured during City’s Community Shield triumph over Liverpool, and was diagnosed with an ACL tear, requiring surgery and likely sidelining him for most of the 2019-20 season.

The injury would also seem to put his participation for the 2020 European Championships next summer, as even if he is healthy, he may be lacking in match fitness.

However, while Low said he was disappointed to see Sane suffer the injury, he believes the winger will be ready in time for the Euros.

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“We were very sad and downcast when we heard about it,” Low told DAZN at the half-time of the Bundesliga opener between Bayern Munich and Hertha Berlin. “I had contact with Leroy. For him and his situation, of course, it was the worst possible time.

“We hope he will come back as soon as possible. He is a player of incredible quality and we wish him all the best.

“He will make it for the European Championship.”

Low also spoke on the Bundesliga title race, which he believes could be very competitive once again this season.

Bayern have maintained total dominance of the Bundesliga, winning seven straight titles since Borussia Dortmund claimed back-to-back crowns in 2010-11 and 2011-12.

Dortmund came close to ending Bayern’s dominance last season, leading the title race during the second half of the campaign, but ultimately fell short despite taking the title fight to the last day of the season.

The runners-up reinforced heavily this summer, bringing back Mats Hummels from Bayern, adding Nico Schulz, as well as exciting attackers Thorgan Hazard and Julian Brandt.

And their summer leaves Low with the impression Dortmund could well challenge Bayern for the title this season.

“I see it as very positive that Dortmund focused on their championship target aggressively and they have strengthened very well,” Low said.

“Mats Hummels – outstanding! Nico Schulz – outstanding! Thorgan Hazard – very good! Julian Brandt as well. Dortmund have reinforced very well and are a serious competitor for Bayern.”

Bayern opened their league campaign with a 2-2 draw with Hertha on the strength of two Robert Lewandowski goals and confirmed they have reached an agreement with Barcelona over a loan of Philippe Coutinho for the season. 

Meanwhile, Dortmund kick off their Bundesliga season hosting Augsburg on Saturday.

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The Brazilian star looks set to move to Germany on a temporary basis after both clubs confirmed the impending move

Barcelona and Bayern Munich have confirmed that an agreement is in place to send Philippe Coutinho to the German champions on a one-year loan with a purchase option.

The Brazilian midfielder has failed to impress since joining the La Liga champions from Liverpool in January 2018, and Barca have been keen to offload their big-money signing as they revamp the squad.

He was offered to a number of Premier League clubs before the English transfer window slammed shut but nothing materialised, and a move to the Bundesliga now appears to be the next stage of Coutinho’s journey.

An agreement in principle is in place between the two clubs with the deal almost complete but not formally closed, with the player being left out of Barcelona’s La Liga season-opening defeat against Athletic Bilbao as his move to the Bundesliga champions inches closer. 

Guillermo Amor, director of institutional and sporting relations for Barcelona and an official club spokesperson, told  Movistar+ : “I can confirm that there’s an agreement in principle in the case of Coutinho’s loan [to Bayern].”

After Bayern Munich drew Hertha 2-2 in their Bundesliga opener, their sporting director Hasan Salihamidzic also confirmed the deal for the 27-year-old. 

“I can confirm that (Bayern CEO) Karl-Heinz Rummenigge and I have been in Barcelona this week and we have reached an agreement with FC Barcelona and with the player and his agent,” Salihamidzic told ZDF .

“We have had very good discussions, I would like to thank FC Barcelona. Of course, there are still missing a few details, including the medical check and the signature.

“It is a transfer on loan for one year followed by a purchase option for FC Bayern.”

Last season, in his first full campaign with Barca, Coutinho managed 11 goals and five assists in 54 appearances in all competitions.

Coutinho was often used on the left wing and Barcelona have just signed Antoine Griezmann from Atletico Madrid, with the Frenchman joining Ousmane Dembele as an option on that flank ahead of the Brazilian in the pecking order.

Additionally, the Catalan giants have been heavily linked with a move for former star Neymar, who would be another big name ahead of Coutinho in an already stacked forward line.

When pressed on the club’s interest in the Paris Saint-Germain forward, Amor was less forthcoming.

“The Coutinho news is true and it has come out, but with Neymar it’s better not to say too much. He is a PSG player and we have a game this evening, so we should focus on winning that,” Amor said.

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