8 International Cruises That Don’t Suck

Forget the all-you-can-eat buffets. These small-ship cruises offer unparalleled access to adventure.

We get it. You’ve avoided cruises because the idea of being held captive on a crowded boat with piles of unhealthy food, cranky retirees, and a bad DJ doesn’t sound all that appetizing. But you’re missing out. These days, there are plenty of smaller ships with the ability to travel where cars, trains, and planes can’t, acting as mobile base camps with unparalleled access to mountain biking, backcountry skiing, surfing, and more.

Sri Noa Noa

(Courtesy Sri Noa Noa)

Indonesia

The best surf breaks in the world are often the hardest to reach. Enter the Sri Noa Noa, a sailboat that hosts small, customized tours to empty breaks around Indonesia’s East Indian Archipelago. The Sri Noa Noa fits up to six people in airy teak cabins, and you can either book the whole boat or join an open cruise. When you’re not surfing, you can hike through national parks, snorkel ultramarine waters, or catch fish right from the boat. The daily rate includes three meals a day. For an extra fee, an onboard pro photographer will capture your adventures. (From $200 per person per night.)

Ice Axe Expeditions

(Ice Axe Expeditions)

Antarctica

On the 13-day Ice Axe Expeditions Antarctic Peninsula Adventure Cruise, taking place this November, you’ll snowshoe among penguins, sea kayak with whales, and backcountry ski rarely visited peaks with the help of certified guides and a Zodiac boat to shuttle you ashore. The ship’s two decks of cabins fit 132 guests. Along the way, you’ll learn from onboard experts about the history, biology, and geology of the snow-covered southern continent. (From $10,995 per person.)

Austin Adventures

(Courtesy Austin Adventures)

Australia, Baja, Botswana

Small-ship cruises with Austin Adventures carry just a few dozen guests, meaning the empty beaches of Western Australia’s Kimberley Coast stay mostly empty. For eight days, you’ll hike to the top of waterfalls, go mud crabbing, and swim in isolated ponds before catching the sunset from the observation deck, glass of Australian wine in hand. Other destinations include island hopping in Bali or game spotting in the deltas of Botswana. (Trips start at $2,990 per person.)

Aqua Expeditions

(Richard Mark Dobson)

Peru, Cambodia, Vietnam

Want to avoid seasickness on the open ocean? Aqua Expeditions is for you. The cruise company offers three-to-seven-night adventures on two of the world’s most iconic waterways: the Amazon River through Peru and the Mekong River in Cambodia and Vietnam. Skiffs take passengers ashore for off-road biking excursions and jungle hikes. But with suites featuring floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the water, plus amenities like an outdoor hot tub, fitness room, and locally sourced meals, no one will blame you if you stay aboard. (From $3,825 per person for three nights.)

UnCruise Adventures

(Jocelyn Pride/Uncruise Adventures)

Alaska, Panama, Costa Rica, Hawaii

The size of the small ships in the UnCruise Adventures fleet is key: The 120-to-232-foot vessels can travel narrow passages that large vessels can’t, and they anchor in small bays so you can explore scenic spots via kayak or paddleboard. Destinations include southeast Alaska and Glacier Bay National Park, the rainforests of Panama and Costa Rica, and Hawaii’s emerald isles. Onboard, view wildlife or the night sky from observation decks, participate in a topside yoga session, and dine on healthy meals. (From $2,995 per person for seven nights.)

BC Ferries

(Courtesy BC Ferries)

British Columbia

BC Ferries isn’t a cruise ship operator—the company provides transportation to coastal communities around British Columbia. But these same boats also offer multiday vacation packages. The eight-day Inside Passage Coastal Adventure starts in Vancouver and visits small fishing villages on Vancouver Island before heading up the famed Inside Passage to the secluded port of Prince Rupert. You’ll spend each night in onshore hotels, so there’s no sleeping in small cabins. By day, you’ll choose your own adventures, from photographing grizzlies to watching for whales. (From $1,176 per person for seven nights.)

The Rider Experience

(Courtesy The Rider Experience)

The Grenadines

If you’re a kitesurfer, check out the Rider Experience. Its eight-night tour of the Grenadines aboard a 45-foot sailing catamaran includes daily kitesurfing sessions off remote Caribbean islands like Canouan, Tobago Cays, and Mayrea. Newbies can take lessons, and other activities include paddleboarding and snorkeling through turquoise waters. Or go farther afield with the Rider Experience’s trips in Greece, Egypt, and other exotic locations. (From $2,650 per person for eight nights.)

Islandhopping

(Courtesy Islandhopping)

Croatia, Italy, Greece

Imagine a guided cycling tour combined with a small-ship excursion, and you’ll have the idea behind Islandhopping. On its cruises, you bring your bike aboard and disembark to ride flowing singletrack, buff downhill trails, and winding dirt roads around Mediterranean islands in Croatia, Italy, and Greece. If you don’t have a bicycle, the boat will provide a full-suspension loaner for a small fee. The cabins aren’t lavish, but they’re cozy enough for a great night’s sleep after a long day in the saddle. (From $1,155 per person for seven nights.)

Alex Honnold Wore a North Face Tux to the Oscars

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Normally, when stars at red-carpet events get asked what they’re wearing, we tune out. Gucci? I’m sorry, did you mean Patagucci? But at Sunday night’s Oscars, there was one name we did recognize: The North Face (TNF). Alex Honnold took to the red carpet alongside Jimmy Chin, Chai Vasarhelyi, and the rest of the Free Solo team to claim an Oscar for best documentary. He was wearing a tuxedo designed specially for him by TNF. 

Seeing Alex Honnold in a tuxedo is an odd enough sight. Most of the time he looks like he came straight from a rock gym—because he probably did. But we can get behind a tux designed by the same company that makes puffy jackets and backpacks (and sponsors Honnold).

Mona Al-Shaalan, a designer for the brand’s Black Series fashion and lifestyle line, made the suit to combine modern styling with technical fabrics. The pants and single-button jacket were made of 100 percent wool and paired with a stretch-cotton tuxedo shirt, while the pocket square and bow tie were adorned with The North Face logos. Al-Shaalan has a background in fashion, having designed for McQ by Alexander McQueen, Versace, and Givenchy.

She and tailor Devon Scott traveled to meet Honnold three times to measure and fit the tux. Scott has made custom outfits for professional athletes and Oscar attendees several times before, but Honnold was the first climber she’s worked with. “He has these really broad shoulders similar to a swimmer,” she says. “Then a very narrow waist, long arms, and a developed chest and calves, which gives you a great canvas to drape the cloth on.” Al-Shaalan says she went for a slim fit to highlight Honnold’s athletic physique.

It seems strange to hear a designer from one of the world’s preeminent technical outdoor brands talking about peak lapels and jacquard pocket squares, and even stranger that Alex Honnold—the man who climbs in cut-off pants—is at the center of it all. Don’t worry, though: The North Face says this suit was a one-time thing for the Oscars. Don’t expect to see performance-stretch tuxedos in your local gear shop any time soon.

From Alaska to Mexico. The Hard Way.

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“Our tents are breaking down, the plastic racks that we strap the bags onto are damaged from a number of shore-break landings, and the bodies need a few days out of the water to heal up,” Ryan and Casey Higginbotham wrote on Instagram on New Year’s Eve. “Regardless, it feels damn good to be so close.”

The dispatch came from somewhere along the southwest coast of Baja California Sur, accompanied by an image of Casey leaning against his paddleboard, earbuds in, looking relaxed but spent. And rightfully so—it was nearly the end of a three-month, 1,100-mile prone-paddling odyssey that began at the U.S.-Mexico border and was set to finish in the shadow of the iconic rock arch of Cabo San Lucas on New Year’s Day. “We always say, ‘Algún día. Someday,’” Casey had told me on December 18 from a pay phone in San Juanico, a fishing village just over 300 miles north of Cabo. “You’ll be there someday. Keep going.”

This he knew from experience.


We have entered the age of corporatized exploration. Every day, it seems, we learn of some grand expedition being undertaken by another brave soul tormented by thoughts of living a pedestrian life. While these people’s desire to break records and push physical and psychological boundaries is real, it is also true that many of them are bankrolled by sponsors. And why not? Exploration is expensive. If slapping a corporate logo on your gear will help get you over the finish line, then by all means start crafting that marketing pitch.

Ryan and Casey Higginbotham’s journey, on the other hand, began unceremoniously and without funds. And also with a good buzz. Over a few beers in March 2015, the twins, then 22, simply decided it was time, as Ryan put it, to do “something beyond all the bullshit.” They settled on paddling from Ketchikan, Alaska, to the U.S.-Mexico border on lifeguard rescue boards, a 2,200-mile feat that had never been done before. When they reached out to companies for support, the response was, “Have you done something like this before?” They had not. “We were starting from scratch,” Ryan later wrote in an unpublished book about the expedition. They never set up a GoFundMe or Kickstarter page, and no corporate sponsor materialized, though some companies helped out with product—wetsuits, sunscreen, drybags, a mini solar panel. “We started selling things,” Ryan wrote. “We’d hit the local swap meet every other weekend to sell off clothes and items that were unnecessary.” They moved in with their parents. And finally, most painfully, they sold the 1994 Sea Ray speedboat they’d received from their grandmother.

The Higginbothams grew up in the small, foggy town of Pismo Beach, on California’s central coast. Life there was safe and easy and revolved around the ocean. In their teens, the wiry, identical towheaded twins were in the ocean almost every day, swimming, surfing, rock-jumping, cave-diving. They became swim instructors and then lifeguards, which led to an interest in prone paddleboarding. It wasn’t until the end of college, in 2015, that all of this suddenly seemed like child’s play. They’d grown up hearing their grandfather talk about crash-landing in World War II. Robert, their father, had ridden broncos and fought in Vietnam. To the brothers, these experiences offered the kind of adventure that a million rock jumps or cave dives could never touch. They were young, fit, and good at most anything they tried—what they still needed to test, however, were not so much their physical limits as their psychological ones.

What Ryan and Casey did have plenty of was competitive drive—directed mostly toward each other. “When we were little kids, it was always, Who’s going to jump off the higher cliff?” Ryan told me. “When Casey was 19, he did an Ironman, and I was like, What do I have to do to top that?” On Christmas Eve 2015, toward the bottom of a bottle of Jim Beam, the brothers got into a fistfight—over what, neither can remember—in the kitchen of their parents’ house. Blood from a well-placed elbow to Casey’s forehead splattered the floor. In March of 2016, as the boys set off for Alaska, their mother, Shelly, worried not about the brutal elements killing her sons but about her sons killing each other. “It can suck when your life is a competition,” Ryan said. “But we decided to work together to see what we could achieve.”

To train, Ryan found an old how-to guide for the famously grueling 32-mile Molokai 2Oahu paddle race and followed it step by step. Still, they never trained with the gear they’d need for the real thing. Perched on their 18-foot Bark paddleboards would be 70 pounds’ worth of essentials—a cookstove, sat phone, extra rudders, medical kit, tent, sleeping bags, an EPIRB (emergency position-indicating radio beacon), flares, and a 12-gauge shotgun and a box of shells (in case of bears).

Both brothers described the Alaska part of the trip as a combination of the “highest highs and lowest lows.” On day four, Ryan lost his wetsuit glove while trying to take a photo. He hadn’t packed a second pair. “You sandbagger,” Casey snapped. “You fucked up the whole expedition.” The next day, they were sidelined by heavy wind and rain. Everything settled into a cold dampness. Two months into the journey, as they crawled south along the Washington coast, Casey developed severe muscle pain in his back that no amount of stretching could abate. They tried to stay within a mile of the coast, but during bay crossings, their distance from the shore was greater, and land disappeared behind the fog. “It would come in waves,” Casey wrote in their book about the 218-day journey, “blanketing everything in whiteout.”

When the fog did clear, the wildness and solitude enveloping them was so immense it felt medicinal. The agony from the incessant paddling evaporated. Before reaching the United States’ populated West Coast, they often slept on tiny islands dotting the Alaskan and Canadian coasts. They’d wake up to sheet-glass conditions padded by a thin fog bank, and the snow-covered Coast Mountains on the eastern horizon. Perfect strangers could be just as soul-saving. In British Columbia, a woman who was working on her sailboat when the twins paddled up to her dock, soaked and bedraggled, drove them into town to pick up food and supplies.

Seven months after they’d left Ketchikan, their journey ended at the thin, incongruous black fence reaching into the ocean at Border Field State Park, in San Diego. Border Patrol agents shook their hands. Family and friends gave them hugs. But after it was over, Ryan described that last day as a “melancholic shadow.” “Looking down the coast,” he wrote in the book, “I realized that I will always want to see what lies beyond the next point. The daily struggle is over, the constant need to find solutions to accomplish this goal, and right now all I want is more.”


It didn’t take long for Ryan and Casey to decide they would do another paddle, this time from the border to Cabo San Lucas, 1,100 miles down the Baja peninsula. For the next two years, they worked odd jobs to save up for the trip. They traveled to a trade show in Munich to talk about the “AK to MX” paddle.

On October 12, 2018, the twins found themselves once again dragging their paddleboards across the sand at the border—this time, not away from the ocean but toward it. Again there was little fanfare, no corporate sponsors, and a measly 5,000 or so Instagram followers. They paddled 14 miles that first day, a solid start. “We made it to Rosarito and it feels good to be back on the water,” they wrote on Instagram. “The body is going to take some time to adjust to this on the daily.”

Compared to the seven months it took to complete the first trip, this journey would be complete in less than half that time. The brothers had refined their launching technique through rough shore break, which had cost them gear and damaged their boards the first time around. They ditched the heavy boots and Gore-Tex rainsuits for much lighter warm-weather gear. No shotgun, either. Nevertheless, there was plenty of risk. The majority of Baja’s Pacific coast is desolate, so they’d driven supplies down ahead of time and buried them in the sand, hoping they’d still be there when they returned. The desert winds could be relentless, maddening. Whereas the cold threatened frostbite, the heat threatened dehydration. And there were the sharks and the banditos—themselves.

“There’ve been times when we wanted to beat the hell out of each other,” Ryan said from the pay phone on December 18. “But having that goal, and knowing that I’m relying on Casey and he’s relying on me, supersedes that desire.” Just a couple days before, they’d been sucked into a lagoon south of a windswept headland called Punta Abreojos—“open-eyes point”—and lost an entire day of progress. “When you’re in those moments, you have to let the emotion go,” Ryan went on. “We couldn’t quit on each other.”  

Between San Juanico and the arch of Cabo San Lucas, the twins had about 330 miles to cover and exactly two weeks to make it in time for New Year’s Day. But at the last minute, they decided to arrive in Cabo a day late, in order to accommodate some friends who wanted to be there for the twins’ landing. Both Ryan and Casey already seemed serene about the whole journey, unbothered by the few hundred miles still standing between them and their goal. I wondered if they were pondering future projects. “Casey’s got three pretty terrible ideas written down,” Ryan said. “One of them is going to happen.”

On January 2, the twins passed the arch, several cruise ships, and too many sightseeing boats to count before landing at a beach crowded with idle tourists baking in the Mexican sun. The brothers were greasy haired, bearded, and taut with muscle. Some of the tourists looked up from their books or magazines or conversations to stare at the two bedraggled, towheaded boys who had emerged from the ocean. Others went on without notice. The twins were eager to escape such a “shit show,” as Casey called it.

Later I asked Ryan if the melancholic shadow had returned. It had. “When you’re out there, you have a lot of time to think, and you build up a narrative of what life will be like when you get back—what you’re going to do, expectations about your personal relationships, how you will feel different on a day-to-day basis,” he told me. “Then once you get back, the narrative is never a reality.” But, he said, the shadow will pass, and the desire to go again will return.

Take a Scenic Byway on Your Next Road Trip

There are 128 National Scenic Byways across the country. Here are five of our favorites.

As my wife, Jen, and I travel the West in Artemis the Airstream, one of our guiding rules for choosing a road trip itinerary is to avoid all interstates and major highways. Big roads are great for getting to places fast, but they are generally dull to drive, not much to look at, and often more stressful when you’re pulling a trailer because of the high speeds. It’s also a mentality—we aren’t on the road to rush from place to place; we’re in it to seek out the quiet spots and sip in the views.

So it was that while making our way across southern Idaho earlier this summer, we found ourselves puttering on the two-lane State Highway 26 instead of powering down Interstate 86. As we cruised along, the golden pastureland began to rise up around us, climbing higher into the eastern hills and erupting into a tapestry of crenellated, tar-black lava. A sign marked the boundary of Craters of the Moon National Monument, then a second one announced that we were driving the Peaks to Craters Scenic Byway.

We’d happened on scenic byways before, but this time, so moved, I decided to do some research. Congress established the National Scenic Byways Program in 1991 to “preserve the nation’s scenic, but often less-traveled roads and promote tourism and economic development” in smaller towns and locales. Byways are designated by the Federal Highway Administration and must have one or more of the following areas of significance: archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic. There are currently 128 scenic byways in 46 states (sorry, Hawaii, Nebraska, Rhode Island, and Texas). Roads with two or more of the qualities—the best of the best—are dubbed All-American Roads, of which there are 31.

The designations don’t stop there. The Bureau of Land Management has its own system of Back Country Byways, 54 in total, many of which are dirt roads through wild lands. And the U.S. Forest Service has designated 135 National Forest Scenic Byways of its own. On top of that, states, regions, and even cities have jumped onboard, and there are countless other scenic roads. This might sound like a bit of a hot mess of scenery, but the creators of the road trip–planning app Furkot created a site that does a great job of breaking it down in searchable maps, both on the national and state levels.

Obviously, hitting them all would be quite the accomplishment—one we’re unlikely to achieve. But moving forward, we’ll be consulting the map as we plan our travels in Artemis. In the meantime, here are five favorites that we’ve hit thus far (sometimes unknowingly) throughout the years.

Apache Trail Historic Road, Arizona (41.5 miles)

The first time I traveled this route, I was on day three of a bikepack across the Copper State on the Arizona Trail. After more than 350 miles, my energy was flagging, but the vistas on this byway, east of Phoenix, recharged me. It’s pretty good pavement through golden domes of granite from Apache Junction out to Tortilla Flat, but the truly stunning section is on washboard dirt that climbs over an impossible-looking pass and then travels through Fish Creek Canyon to Roosevelt Lake. There are great camping opportunities through the canyon, and we’ve since returned with Artemis the Airstream. If you go, check your vehicle length and be confident of your trailering skills—it’s a pretty testing drive.

San Juan Skyway, Colorado (229 miles)

Jen and I have a soft spot for the San Juan Mountains of southwest Colorado. We spent many of our early years together exploring this range and, later, got married here. There are so many breathtaking views along this loop that it’s almost impossible to identify the best bits. However, the 25-mile Million Dollar Highway stretch from Silverton to Ouray, which climbs over Red Mountain Pass, has to be one of the single most staggering stretches of paved road anywhere. From the open ridgeline at the summit, sweeping turns snake down past glistening mountain tarns and through the tundra. The views on the west side of the loop, from Telluride to Dolores, aren’t quite as bracing, but the road there is quieter, and camping opportunities abound on the web of forest roads. You could easily take a week to do a whole lap on this drive and find good pullouts all along the way. I’ve never driven it in winter, and frankly, we’d never consider doing so with Artemis.

West Elk Loop, Colorado (202 miles)

People often overlook the Elk Mountains for Colorado’s more famous—and easier to reach—Front, Gore, Tenmile, Sawatch, and Sangre de Cristo ranges. But the Elks’ reclusive location is part of their appeal. The West Elk Loop passes through some of the prettiest and quaintest towns left in Colorado. Crested Butte has some of the state’s best mountain biking and skiing and still retains the small-town charm that made it famous. Gunnison is more low-key and is the jumping-off point to the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park. The laid-back Western Slope farming and ranching towns of Paonia, Hotchkiss, and Crawford are refreshing counterpoints to the frenetic development in eastern Colorado. Kebler Pass, outside Crested Butte, ranks on our list of favorite places to camp anywhere. If you visit in early September, the West Elk Bicycle Classic gran fondo takes in the finest stretches of this drive in a day.

(Jen Judge)

Kyle Canyon Road, Nevada (22 miles)

You could easily do this hill climb, just north of Vegas, in a day. But if you’ve been down in the desert heat for long, the high altitude and clear air on the flanks of Mount Charleston will likely be such a welcome reprieve that you’ll want to stay. That’s what happened to us the last time we visited. We intended to drive up and back down for the views but ended up staying a week. There’s a quartet of campgrounds up high, from the well-developed (and slightly busy by our standards) McWilliams, at the end of Lee Canyon Road, to the sleepy, 11-site spot in the ponderosas at Fletcher View. If you climb, don’t forget a rack of draws, rope, and shoes, as Mount Charleston is one of the best limestone crags in the country (though, with is history of chipped holds, it’s also one of the most controversial).

Quebradas Back Country Byway, New Mexico (24 miles)

Long before we purchased Artemis, I used this road, south of Albuquerque, as a winter training ground for biking, largely oblivious to its designation. A lost dirt road through forgotten country, Quebradas typifies both the backcountry byway designation and the isolation of New Mexico that I love so much. Side roads splinter off the byway’s length, providing excellent pullouts overlooking dry canyons and massive valleys filled with pronghorn and even oryx, if you’re lucky. The best time to do the drive and camp along the route is in late fall, when you can day-trip to Bosque del Apache and Sevilleta National Wildlife Refuges to take in the annual bird migration.

These Concerts Are for Very Lucky Hikers Only

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Admiring music is a lot like admiring nature: it’s appreciating something ephemeral, as quick to change as light on a landscape. That’s the spirit of the music Anastasia Allison plays as the violinist of the Musical Mountaineers, a duo she formed with pianist Rose Freeman in 2017. The women hike with theirinstruments (Freeman brings a keyboard) into remote wilderness settings, don formal gowns, and play unannounced, most often to no audience.

The point is to create a moment of pure art, small in scale in respect to the mountain settings, says Allison. “We want to make something beautiful and then disappear.” The Musical Mountaineers have performed some 40 concerts in the wilds of the Pacific Northwest, and Allison estimates that fewer than 30 people have caught the concerts in person.

But they’re slowly gaining a following, thanks to an active YouTube channel where the duo posts videos of most performances. And Allison, a 38-year-old resident of Everett, Washington, is emerging as a quirky icon in the Pacific Northwest outdoor scene. The former park ranger and railroad law-enforcement officer now works as an adventure coach, a podcaster, and the purveyor of a singular piece of women’s backpacking gear (more on that later). 

The sparse attendance at Musical Mountaineers performances is by design, says Allison. “If we wanted it to be a show, we could announce it ahead of time, or show up at 11 A.M. at Mount Si,” she says, referring to the popular Seattle-area hike. Instead, Allison and Freeman keep their recitals a secret, setting out from a trailhead in the dark, aiming to begin playing at dawn. Staging concerts miles into the woods, on places like Washington’s Mount Dikerman or Hidden Lake Peak, and Wheeler Beach on California’s Lost Coast, the Musical Mountaineers play traditional standards like “Ashokan Farewell,” “Hallelujah,” and “Sunrise, Sunset.”

For those who do happen to catch their gigs, it can be an overwhelming experience. “I’ll look up and see this person with tears streaming down their face,” says Allison, thinking of one man in particular who found the duo at Sahale Arm in Washington’s North Cascades while hiking with his daughter. “People say it’s particularly emotional because they aren’t prepared for it. I love that—I live for moments that feel like an unpromised gift.”

The gift is a theme for Allison, in music and in life. When she worked as a park ranger at Washington’s Twanoh State Park, she saw firsthand how offering live music can build bridges. Allison would sometimes serenade visitors with her violin on her rounds of the campground. If afterward she needed to enforce the campground’s quiet time, groups tended to be a lot more cooperative than on days when she hadn’t brought her instrument to work. 

More recently, it has also informed her life choices—a close call on Washington’s Highway 2 in January 2017 inspired her to make some big life changes. Returning from a winter hike with her mother and husband, Allison’s truck went into a 360-degree spin on the ice and ended up in the opposing lane with a semi barreling down upon them. The semi managed to avoid her truck, but the incident shook Allison enough that she soon quit the unfulfilling law-enforcement-officer job with Burlington Northern. “Realizing that every day is an unpromised gift, I had to make a change,” she says. 

Another change was the small business she began about that time—selling pee cloths. In lieu of the cloth bandanas some women use to maintain hygiene on backpacking trips, Allison’s Kula Cloth is antimicrobial, quick drying, and fashioned with snaps to attach it to a pack for quick access. She wanted the $20 pot-holder-size cloth, she says, “to be a legitimate piece of gear. So often women’s gear is an afterthought. Gear designed for women by women helps legitimize our place in the outdoors. I deliberately picked a nonjokey name for the cloth for that same reason.” It’s also a Leave No Trace solution, reducing litter in the backcountry—those tissue blossoms found behind every tree and bush along popular trails. The Kula Cloth business is growing; she fulfilled her thousandth order in December.

Leave No Trace is the same sentiment behind keeping Musical Mountaineers shows hard to find. “We don’t want a crowd trampling high-alpine meadows just to watch us play,” says Allison. On the other hand, she loves the idea of people heading into the mountains on the off chance of finding them and inadvertently receiving the benefits of being outside. “If they only catch a sunrise they never would have seen, then I feel they have found us,” she says. “That is exactly the spirit of the Musical Mountaineers.”

10 Men's-Specific Products You Should Buy at REI's Sale

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When you buy something using the retail links in our stories, we earn an affiliate commission that helps pay for our work. Read more about Outside’s affiliate policy.

REI’s January Clearance Sale runs from January 9 through 21 and is a great time to stock up on all the things you wanted but didn’t get over the holidays. Here are ten men’s-specific products that our editors think are worth buying.  You can check out our women's picks here. 

Quality insulation doesn’t have to be expensive. The Stratocloud packs into its own pocket when you don’t need it. It’s a perfect midlayer for cold-weather pursuits, thanks to the 600-fill down insulation, and it’s lightweight enough to be a good stand-alone piece in milder weather.

Buy Now

The Sawtooth’s aggressively lugged outsole, anatomic EVA footbed, heavily cushioned EVA midsole, and nylon shank all combine to offer a comfortable, supportive ride for long days on the trail. 

Buy Now

A lightweight cobble-pattern microfleece, reverse-coil zipper that lets you vent excess warmth, and a standard fit make the Cap Rock an easy-wearing layer that every guy should own. 

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Even on sale, this boot is expensive. But it’ll easily last your lifetime. Plus, it looks stylish enough to pair with slacks but has real performance qualities, like a full-grain leather upper, 200-gram PrimaLoft insulation, and a Vibram outsole. 

Buy Now

The Vaporush is fully windproof and highly breathable, courtesy of the Gore Windstopper shell, which is also water repellent enough to keep you dry in anything but a prolonged downpour. Stretchy soft-shell panels at the underarms, sides, and shoulders provide excellent freedom of movement.

Buy Now

Toss these puffy slippers on after a long day on the slopes or to keep warm in your tent at night. They’re lined with fleece, and the nylon soles are covered in non-slip polyester beads to provide traction indoors.

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Keep your facial hair silky, smooth, and healthy with the help of Good and Well Supply Co.’s beard balm. Its solid botanical formula—a mix of shea butter, beeswax, jojoba oil, argan oil, vitamin E, and pure essential oils–is soothing and provides convenient on-the-go maintenance.

Buy Now

A fleece might be the most versatile layer in your closet. The dashing Campshire is made from polyester sherpa fleece for soft comfort and heat retention.

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Everyone needs a hoody for kicking back after a long day of outdoor activities.  The French terry knit, with a soft cotton face and a technical polyester back for moisture management, makes the Archaeopteryx a great option. 

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No one likes a clingy shirt. The Invoke keeps you cool and comfortable with superfine mesh paneling under the arms and a special 3-D microfiber technology designed to lift the fabric off your skin.

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What We Learned from the Yarnell Hill Fire Deaths

One of the worst tragedies in the history of firefighting prompted little change to a culture that regularly puts young lives at risk. A few seasoned veterans are working to fix that.

Around 4:00 p.m. on June 30, 2013, a 30-year-old hotshot named Christopher MacKenzie pulls a camera from his pocket and shoots a short video. Downhill from him are ten firefighters, all members of the Granite Mountain Hotshots. In the background, the Yarnell Hill Fire sweeps toward the 650-person town of Yarnell, Arizona. On the radio in the background is the voice of the crew’s superintendent, Eric Marsh. He’s somewhere nearby and hints at playing witness to coming disaster. “I was just saying I knew this was coming,” he says. “When I called and asked you what your comfort level was, I could just feel it—you know, too bad.”

“I copy,” says Jesse Steed, the crew’s second in command. “And it’s almost made it to that road we walked in on.”

In that moment, the fire was exploding with a fury most of the several hundred firefighters battling the blaze remembered only as “unprecedented.” One called it “pandemonium.” MacKenzie and his crew were watching this unfold from the safest place on the fire: in the already burned brush high on the same ridge where lightning had started the blaze two days earlier. Less than 50 minutes later, MacKenzie, Steed, Marsh, who had rejoined the crew, and 16 other hotshots were dead in a canyon a mile and a half away, burned to death a short walk from the safety of a ranch on the edge of Yarnell.

The death of 19 Granite Mountain Hotshots, which I wrote about for this magazine and, later, in a book, marked the worst wildland fire disaster in almost 100 years. In the hours after, the Arizona State Forestry Division commissioned a report to find out what happened. Why had the men left the safety of the ridge? For three months, a team of 18 interagency investigators combed over any shred of evidence they could find. They interviewed every firefighter of consequence working the blaze. They took Granite Mountain’s sole surviving member, Brendan “Donut” McDonough, back to the knoll where he last saw his crew. They scoured dispatch records, weather and fuel data, photos, social media posts from firefighters on the blaze, and accounts from civilians. MacKenzie’s partially melted camera was found, having survived a fire that burned hotter than 2,000 degrees. All of the information the investigators collected went into a 116-page record of the tragedy that they hoped could be studied to avoid similar incidents. Yet the investigation felt incomplete. After MacKenzie’s video, the record went spotty for the critical window between when the hotshots left the safety of the ridge and when they reappeared in the canyon minutes before their deaths. Nobody can say for certain why they left.

“All of a sudden, all this other chaos happened. The clarity, the certainty,” says Brad Mayhew, tossing his hands up like he’s throwing confetti. He served as the lead investigator on the report commissioned by the state forestry division immediately after the fatalities. This fall, he agreed to meet me in Yarnell and walk the hotshots’ final steps. It was late afternoon and 100 degrees on September 11. We sat where MacKenzie had shot the video, looking out at the long valley. In the years after the fire, the valley has regrown green but is not yet shaggy. Surrounding us were pyramids of small rocks stacked atop bigger boulders. Mayhew, who is 38, with a salted black beard and a voice that’s deep like that of James Earl Jones, pulled up MacKenzie’s video on his phone to confirm our location. It immediately became clear that somebody had piled the rocks to mark where the ten hotshots had sat or stood in MacKenzie’s final video. “It’s somber,” he mustered.

For most of an hour, we sat among those stones, eating nuts while talking with a big view of the landscape where the tragic fire burned. All the unknowns surrounding Granite Mountain’s deaths bred distrust and blame, and all that emotion soon translated into lawsuits from the some the hotshots’ families. Collectively, they sued the state for wrongful death, settling for $670,000, which was divided among the aggrieved. The fire community clammed up after the lawsuits. “Just talking about Yarnell became radioactive,” Mayhew says. A warm wind was pulling up from the desert and blowing across our backs. “How can this profession make progress if people aren’t comfortable talking about it publicly?”

Most fire fatalities have forced significant safety and cultural changes to wildland firefighting. In an age when fires are getting more dangerous and the need to fight them more pressing, what, if anything, has changed after Yarnell?


In January 2014, 11 veteran firefighters from the nation’s biggest fire agencies—the vanguard of fire, as they were described to me—met in Yarnell. They hiked along the route the hotshots had likely taken from the ridge into the canyon where the 19 died seven months earlier. They arrived at a startling conclusion. “We could see ourselves making the same decision they’d made,” said Travis Dotson, a member of the Wildland Fire Lessons Learned Center, a federally funded organization that helps firefighters improve their performance. Around the time of the field trip, Dotson and others formed an underground group called Honor the Fallen. Included in its couple dozen members were some of the highest-ranking firefighters from the various agencies in the wildland fire business: the Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management, and the Park Service. Their goal was to make sure Yarnell Hill, the most publicized event in wildland firefighting history, forced some much-needed changes to the job’s outdated culture. Three years later, they tried to spark “an age of enlightenment” in wildland fire. As Dotson distilled the shift in mindset, “Before Yarnell, it was about getting better at fighting fire. After, it’s been about getting better at accepting death.”

Some context is needed here. Since 1910, more than 1,100 wildland firefighters have died on the line. “There has never been a fire season that we’ve escaped with no deaths, and many years reach well into the double digits,” says Dotson, who used to be a smokejumper. “Making it through a fire season without a death is a statistical impossibility.” Historically, fire agencies responded to fatalities with investigations that sought to understand what happened. Since 1990, when a blaze killed six firefighters on an inmate crew, those investigations seemed intent on proving that dead firefighters broke rules—sometimes in ways that were criminal. This fervor peaked in 2001 in Washington state, when a fire killed four and the incident commander was charged with involuntary manslaughter. Traditionally, the agencies used the investigators’ conclusions to develop new learning tools, scientific labs, and, mostly, rules. Fatality fires spawned the “18 Watch-Out Situations,” the “Ten Standard Firefighting Orders,” and the ever-growing 118-page Incident Response Pocket Guide that most firefighters keep in their pockets today. Need a reminder on unexploded ordnance safety? That’s on page 27. A refresher on the alignments of patterns for dangerous fire behavior? Page 73. Best practices for a media interview? 111. It’s an astonishing document that matches problems to solutions, but it’s also something like the pamphlet a scout leader might hand a Boy Scout before dropping them into the Alaskan bush. Over time, the relationship between tragedy and rulemaking sewed into the culture the belief that firefighters die only when they break rules.

From the outset, the members of Honor the Fallen understood that Yarnell was unlikely to result in any official change. For one thing, Mayhew’s investigation was of a new wave that borrowed from the military’s tradition: They tried to understand what the firefighters knew in the moment rather than seeking fault in behavior. Instead of chasing “the instant gratification of new rules,” as Mayhew put it, they put the onus of making change on the fire agencies at large. But the approach seemed to fall flat. Granite Mountain was the rare unit operated by a municipality, and the big wildland firefighting agencies did all they could to publicly distance themselves from a tragedy that wasn’t their own. “We treated this whole thing different because Granite Mountain had a different color blood,” Dotson says.

Yarnell did prompt a modest update to the fire shelter, the flimsy aluminum heat shields the hotshots had died under, and the development of a new phone app that helps firefighters get weather updates in real time. But as Honor the Fallen predicted, it led to no significant policy changes.

Then 2015 happened. That year, more acres burned than at any point in recorded history, and the Forest Service lost seven firefighters. That agency is one of many in today’s ballooning wildland fire business, but as the oldest and largest, it sets the industry’s culture. The chief at the time, Tom Tidwell, responded as tradition dictated. “He said, ‘I don’t want another fire season like 2015,’” says John Phipps, director of the Forest Service’s Rocky Mountain Research Station. Tidwell had called him at home in Colorado late one November night and said, “I’m directing you and the leadership team of the Forest Service to come up with a way that we don’t have that kind of a season ever again.” He gave Phipps’s team six months to come up with a way to stop firefighters from dying on the line. “We have 10,000 firefighters,” Phipps remembers thinking. “Well, gee, what can we do in five to six months, get it deployed, and have it make a difference so that everybody goes home in 2016?”

They called it the Life First Initiative. It focused on “reducing the amount of unnecessary risk” to firefighters’ lives. Tidwell’s directive reinforced that the Forest Service “accepted no loss of life” and suggested 11 more rules. (A couple examples: “Under no circumstances will mop-up be allowed under snags or fire-weakened trees.” “Firefighters are prohibited from working alone without radio communications or easy access to emergency medical skills.”) It provided firefighters no tools to assess risk or determine how much of it was necessary.

Because of swift internal backlash, these rules fell short of implementation, but they set the initiative’s tone. From the moment Life First came out, Honor the Fallen considered it a relic. The initiative didn’t mention that over the past three decades, the Forest Service’s fire force had mushroomed from 6,000 employees in 1998—about a third of the agency’s workforce—into a seasonal army that now gobbled up half the agency’s $4 billion–plus annual budget and then spent hundreds of millions more in emergency funding. It didn’t mention that wildland firefighters’ primary job was no longer to save publicly owned trees for the timber industry to cut, but to place themselves between watersheds, infrastructure, cities, and often uncontrollable fires like Yarnell Hill. And most damning, it failed to acknowledge what the agency’s scientific arm openly states: that because of climate change, sick forests, and explosive population growth, every trend points to firefighters being asked to take bigger risks more often. The year after Life First’s release, 15 more firefighters died.

Honor the Fallen responded immediately after Life First’s release. “They attempted to deal with increased complexity with more rules, some of which just show a total disconnect from the reality of today’s wildland fire environment,” says Mark Smith, a consultant for Mission-Centered Solutions, a company with a 20-year history of advising the Forest Service on leadership and culture. “If you accept that zero fatalities is unachievable, why would you establish it as an objective?” On behalf of Honor the Fallen, Smith penned an essay called “The Big Lie,” in which he slaughtered the sacred cow that we could fight fires without firefighters dying. It was time to move the profession out the 1970s and into the 21st century, he argued. In other words, it was time for management to ignore the politics and accept that fighting wildland fire is a dangerous profession.

According to Smith’s calculations, at the start of each season, every wildland firefighter has a one in 1,600 chance of ending up in a coffin by year’s end—and that doesn’t factor in serious injuries or near misses. With an average of 19 deaths a year, the job is roughly as dangerous as a soldier in training, a career where recruits sign a will when they walk into boot camp. (Because of Honor the Fallen’s work, some crews now ask their firefighters to do this.) The strange thing, Smith says, is that the Forest Service’s official policies still insist that more rules, or following existing rules better, would keep everybody alive.

Smith calls this paradigm a “lawyer’s dream,” where the agency has unintentionally created “a cover your ass” environment by requiring that its firefighters follow rules that simply cannot all be simultaneously followed. While these rules are well intentioned and do indeed save lives, he says they also impose a false sense of control in a wildly chaotic environment. My favorite line of Smith’s from “The Big Lie” is this: “There is nothing low risk about a 19-year-old hotshot driving an ATV loaded with fuel mix down a burning mountain at dusk after working a 12-hour day.”

Using formulas developed in the military, Smith, a former Army Ranger, calculated that the vast majority of firefighting operations exist in the medium- to high-risk zone. In other words, there’s a relatively high probability that a tree eventually crushes you, you step on a bee nest, grab the business end of a chainsaw, or get burned. Yet somehow, most firefighters Smith polled believe they work in a low-risk environment—something more like a factory floor. He says that in the special forces, if the Rangers found it too dangerous to take an objective, they came up with a new plan. That’s not always the case in wildland fire.

“It doesn’t matter if it’s one house or one community,” Phipps says. “It’s not part of our protocol to say, gee, we’ll risk less here because it’s only one house.” Put another way, under the current paradigm, the agency regularly risks the same number of firefighters’ lives to save an outhouse as they do the city of Denver.


When I asked Smith how a job as obviously dangerous as wildland firefighting came to be seen as safe, he reached back to 1910, when the Big Burn ripped a 3 million–acre hole into rich timber lands, killed approximately 76 firefighters, and kicked off the Forest Service’s 100-year transition from a land management agency to one of the world’s largest fire departments. He says that back then, the firefighters were militias of men rousted from bars or ranches, and the public wasn’t all that concerned when they died. But die they did, and in great numbers: 25 in California near Griffith Park in 1933; 15 near Cody, Wyoming, in 1937; 11 in the Cleveland National Forest in 1943. In some ways, not much has changed. “Until now, there’s been this insidious cultural legacy where the belief has been if we can just get these low-paid resources to follow the rules, nothing bad will happen,” Smith says.

The backbone of the fire service remains young men and women. Wildland firefighting is a seasonal job with a starting base pay of about $1,920 per month. An Army private makes slightly more than that, and their meals are paid for, plus all their lodging, retirement benefits, and 100 percent of their dental, medical, and vision insurance. Basic training for a soldier is three months. A rookie firefighter can battle blazes as intense as Yarnell if they can pass a week’s worth of online classes and heft a 45-pound pack over three miles in less than 45 minutes.

One reason young men and women might embrace the risk of firefighting is that the job promises big adventure. At least that was true for me when I was in my early twenties and fought fire. But it’s also true that slim budgets and great societal expectations drive risk onto naive kids. The entire Forest Service’s budget is a fingernail on the arm of the military’s—$4.7 billion versus $717 billion. Yet every time a fire starts in a town’s backyard, politicians and the public demand an immediate and forceful response. Smith’s worry is that if the Forest Service admitted the incredibly high chance of death their people are exposed to, their firefighters—or maybe their families—might demand fair compensation. And what land management agency can afford to pay that?

After writing “The Big Lie,” Smith followed up with another piece called “When Luck Runs Out.” In it, he argued that not measuring risk or reward is completely at odds with the military (including the Coast Guard), commercial diving, or almost any other high-risk industry where accidents are accepted as an inevitability. He developed a chart that explained how wildfire agencies might adopt the technique. At the bottom, recreation lands and roads justified a low level of risk. Domestic animals and critical watersheds justified a medium risk. Smith felt a high risk was acceptable if they were working to mitigate threats to regional employment centers and human life. And undertaking extreme risk was OK in only one case: “viable and saveable human life in imminent danger.” It’s widely assumed that describes Granite Mountain’s intent on Yarnell Hill.

This type of risk assessment isn’t yet being done on the fireline. “I see these changes taking ten years, maybe 15,” Smith says.

But there’s reason to be encouraged. Independent of Life First, the Forest Service’s research arm is developing new ways to assess risk. Think of it as the Moneyball of firefighting. The project is led by Dave Calkin, an economist and numbers geek who works for the Forest Service in Missoula, Montana. Calkin is controversial in the fire service. His previous work has shown that the best tactic to take with fires burning under extreme conditions, like California’s 230,000-acre Carr Fire that spun up a tornado of flames and killed six people last July, is to treat them like a hurricane and get the hell out of the way. Lately, Calkin’s been applying economics to weigh the potential of tragic outcomes against the values firefighters try to protect. Quantifying these variables, he says, is the future of wildland firefighting. To sum up his work, Calkin quotes another Forest Service rule about when to fight a wildfire: “The right place, the right time, the right reason. Up until now, the right reason has been left to firefighters to determine,” Calkin says. “That should be a decision made by leadership.”

Ideally, his work will help leadership decide when firefighters should be sent in and when they should wait. Models by Calkin and his team rely on layers of overlaid data. His maps show roads, ridges, rivers—all the typical things found on a map. But they also show vegetation types (forest, brush, the density of dead trees compared to live ones), the perimeters of historic wildfires, and any perceived value at risk—owls, watersheds, towns. His team inputs current and forecasted weather for any given fire. The computer then determines the characteristics of the places where historic fires have stopped and where they haven’t and translates that information into a sort of paint-by-numbers risk map: red where a fire’s most likely to be most dangerous, green where firefighters have the best chance of stopping it, and yellow where they don’t. His models use computers to scout fires and, by doing this, help remove emotion from risk assessment. So far, Calkin hasn’t run a simulation on the Yarnell Hill Fire—there’s no need to since the fire has already burned. But had they run the model on June 30, 2013, it almost certainly would have computed the risk as extreme and the likelihood of success at low to none.

“When we commit firefighters, we want to make sure that the value a firefighter is protecting is worth the investment of the risk they’re exposed to,” Calkin says. That’s not happening, yet. Currently, big agencies fight single fires for months on end, and the public seems content to fund the effort. But nobody is asking if it’s working. That’s because it’s hard to quantify the impact firefighters have on fires. How much bigger would California’s 460,000-acre Mendocino Complex, now the biggest fire in state history, be if $100 million hadn’t been spent trying to control it? Would more than 9,000 homes have burned in last year’s Sonoma and Napa Valley fires if 11,000 firefighters hadn’t tried to stop them? Would they have killed fewer than 42 people? Calkins says too often, regardless of how the fire’s behaving, the assumption is yes. And that means big agencies keep shuttling hordes of firefighters toward the flames without knowing if they can actually do anything to stop them.

Last summer, Calkin’s tool was first put to the test in Arizona’s Tonto National Forest, where the Forest Service let a wildfire burn outside the small town of Globe based on his model’s predictions. It provided recommendations on where they could catch it should they need to, thereby allowing the agency to actively manage the fire while not necessarily fighting it. In the end, it burned 9,000 acres of fire-adapted forest, restoring health to the woods while thinning out some of the excess vegetation that may have otherwise put Globe and the firefighters sent in to protect it at greater risk should a fire spark on some dry and windy day in the future. That project was a dust fleck on the lens of forested lands that need restoration, but it represents a completely different approach to risk mitigation: one that prioritizes maintenance and calculated risk over a reactionary policy of total suppression.

“We’re trying to change a proud tradition,” says Chris Dunn, Calkin’s colleague, who works at Oregon State University. “What we ultimately want to do is help firefighters become fire stewards.”


Back on the ridgetop, Mayhew plays the video MacKenzie shot here five years ago. There’s a moment where the video jumps that looks like an edit. “People seized on that and said we’d doctored the clip,” says Mayhew, shaking his head. “They discounted the entire investigation because they thought they’d caught us in a lie.” In fact, it was two separate but complete clips edited into one. Many firefighters don’t trust investigations. History gave them good reasons. “That’s because for a long time they went out and created reasons to blame workers,” Mayhew says. As an independent contractor, he has made investigating fireline accidents his career.

The team’s reaction to Mayhew’s investigation was particularly strong. He thinks that’s because their investigation did what few others have before. They acknowledged that firefighting is high risk and people sometimes die doing it. In the final report, they didn’t cast blame, which made it harder to learn from the deaths and angered many people.

Around the time that Mayhew’s investigation was released, in the fall of 2013, online discussion boards cropped up that attracted fire professionals and hobbyists. One blog still active today has tens of thousands of comments. Too many of them are overseasoned with vitriol or dedicated to conspiracy theories—somebody ordered the men to leave the ridge; a backfire sparked by a homeowner killed the crew; the hotshots were amateurs. These commenters often accuse Mayhew of being a conspirator in a government coverup. He calls the accusation patently false. But what bothers him is that some of those ideas have infected the fire culture, and he’s constantly having to correct dangerous misperceptions. “It’s comforting to think, ‘I never would have done that. I’m not like them,’” says Mayhew, who was a hotshot and still works as a firefighter. “They were just firefighters, and we’re just firefighters.”

Mayhew and I left the overlook and began hiking when the sun slipped below the Weaver Mountains and the peaks’ shadows stretched into the valley below. We followed the thin road that Granite Mountain took to their deaths. It was steep and rutted, and we both kicked rocks that tumbled downhill. We soon reached the point where the hotshots opted to drop off the ridge, through the canyon, and toward the ranch. We stood there for a moment. A turkey vulture rotated overhead. “Doesn’t it look like it’s right there?” Mayhew asked of the ranch we could see at the head of the canyon. “Like you could be there in five minutes?”

The uncertainty behind what drove those men, in view of that terrifying fire, to drop into a wickedly steep box canyon has generated the conspiracies that still haunt wildland firefighting today. In hindsight, it’s a hard decision to fathom. For his part, Mayhew tries to stay out of the swirling theories. He thinks the way to learn from Yarnell is to ask firefighters to put themselves in Granite Mountain’s boots and ask what could have lured them to make the same choice. On this point, he’s bullish. “They were trying to save lives,” Mayhew says. “They knew people were threatened down there. That must have weighed on them.”

Whatever it was that pulled them off that ridge, after years of making necessarily risky decisions on the fireline, Granite Mountain missed something on Yarnell Hill. And the numbers simply caught them. Mayhew grunted and set off down the hill, hiking toward 19 crosses five minutes from a ranch.

How to Strengthen Your Ankles and Run Faster

New research zeroes in on an unlikely culprit for why running gets less efficient as you fatigue.

Anyone who has scrolled through their own marathon race photos knows that the keen-eyed high-stepper who shows up in the early photos bears little resemblance to the pathetic hobbler of the final miles. Fatigue changes your running form, and yet the vast majority of biomechanics studies involve a few minutes on a treadmill at a comfortable pace. There are some exceptions (like this recent field study of marathoners at the World Championships), but much of our knowledge about running form assumes that we never get tired.

A new study in Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise, from a group led by Maximilian Sanno at the German Sport University Cologne, attempts to plug some of this gap. On the surface, the study was simple: 25 runners ran a hard 10K on a treadmill at a pace just five percent slower than their seasonal best time, and the researchers analyzed their strides at 13 different points (once per kilometer, plus right at the start and 200 and 500 meters into the run in order to capture the rapid changes as fatigue first hits).

The analysis, on the other hand, was anything but simple. The runners were decked out with 78 retroreflective markers attached to “bony landmarks” (places like the medial malleolus, the big bony bump on the inside of your ankle), whose motions were monitored by 13 infrared cameras; the treadmill belt had four embedded force sensors. All this data was analyzed by computer to assess the forces, torques, angles, and work done by each joint. That’s a ton of information, and experts can pore over the details to search for insights—but there’s one big trend that jumps out.

The key finding was that as the run progressed, the runners did less and less work with their ankles, and more and more work with their knees and hips. Here’s how the work done by each joint changed throughout the run:

(Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise)

This data is from the 13 runners in the study classified as “recreational,” with best times slower than 47:30. The pattern was the same in the 12 runners classified as “competitive” (best times faster than 37:30), but it was less pronounced in the faster runners, suggesting that they were better equipped to resist the fatigue-related changes. (As is unfortunately all too common in exercise studies, all the subjects in the study were male, so we’re left to guess whether the same pattern is observed in women.)

The reason this matters is that it’s well-established that runners get less efficient as they fatigue. By the time you get to the end of a marathon, not only are your energy stores severely depleted, but—in a cruel twist—it also takes more energy to sustain a given pace than it did when you were fresh. The reasons for this loss of efficiency aren’t fully understood, but the new data suggests two possible causes.

One is that the tendons in your foot and ankle are uniquely good at storing and returning elastic energy, basically giving you free energy with each stride as they stretch then snap back. As you begin to rely more on your knees and hips instead of your ankles, you benefit less from this energy storage capacity. The other possible explanation is that the muscles around your knees and hips are simply bigger than your ankle muscles, so they burn more energy for a given amount of work. Either way, the net result is that you get less efficient.

The obvious question, then, is whether you can stop the decline in ankle work. “In order to improve running performance,” the researchers suggest in their conclusions, “long-distance runners may benefit from an exercise-induced enhancement of ankle plantar flexor muscle-tendon unit capacities.” I got in touch with Maximilian Sanna to ask what that might mean in practice, and he directed me to an earlier study that outlined a training program for ankle strength and tendon stiffness.

That particular program involved doing five sets of four ankle contractions (3 seconds on, 3 seconds off) four times a week. These contractions were performed isometrically, meaning that the foot didn’t move: it was pressing against an immovable resistance using a specialized machine called a dynamometer. Basically it’s like putting your foot flat on the floor and trying to press the front of your foot through the floor. It exercises roughly the same muscles as a calf raise, but stresses the muscles and tendons in a slightly different way.

All this may sound a little random, suggesting that the secret to fast running is strong calves. But it’s not totally out of the blue. A few years ago, Finnish researchers published some data comparing how hard the knees and ankles have to work during running, and they compared these forces to the maximal forces produced during all-out hopping. While running, both knees and ankles generated a little less than 10 bodyweights of force. For the knees, that was much lower than the 14 bodyweights they produce while hopping. The ankles, in contrast, could only generate 10 bodyweights even while hopping: they were already nearly maxed out while running.

Here’s what that data looked like:

(Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise)

This finding—that ankles have to work relatively harder than knees during running—in turn helps to explain some earlier results from the Finnish group. They’d compared the gaits of three groups of runners with average ages of 26, 61, and 78. As I explained then, all three groups produced similar power from the knees and hips, but the power produced from the ankles declined steadily with increasing age. The ankles, with relatively small muscles forced to work near their maximum capacity, are the “weakest link” as age-related muscle loss starts to kick in.

In a sense, the new German results echo the Finnish findings but on a different time scale. Instead of ankle muscles weakening over the course of decades, we’re seeing ankle muscles fatiguing over the course of a 10K run. That makes ankle strengthening look doubly smart—though it’s not really clear what the best approach is. When I asked the lead Finnish researcher, Juha-Pekka Kulmala, he mentioned standard exercising like calf raises and ankle presses. But he also noted that dynamic exercises like ankle hopping (hopping forward on your toes) are good for neuromuscular recruitment, and isometric exercises (like the ones Sanna recommended) are particularly good for your tendons.

Realistically, it’s probably too early to pretend we know what the optimal ankle strengthening routine is. But as results like this continue to accumulate, it’s worth making a mental note that your ankles may play a bigger role in your running than you realize. And perhaps the solution is as simple as what University of Colorado biomechanist Rodger Kram told me when I was writing about Kulmala’s research in 2016. “Personally,” he told me, “I just run hills.”


My new book, Endure: Mind, Body, and the Curiously Elastic Limits of Human Performance, with a foreword by Malcolm Gladwell, is now available. For more, join me on Twitter and Facebook, and sign up for the Sweat Science email newsletter.

The Ski Films We’re Most Excited About This Winter

Why the season’s most interesting ski movies are the ones about individual athletes

Late one night last winter, I stood at a bar in Rossland, British Columbia, next to a grown-ass man who was practically vibrating with nervous energy. He was staring at the skinny guy sitting in the corner who was still wearing his ski boots and cracking off-color jokes. “Should I go talk to him?” he wondered aloud, as if we were at a middle school dance. “I want to ask him about the boots, but I don’t want to be weird.”

Tweenage girls take a lot of heat for being easily infatuated, but they have nothing on skiers. Skiing is a crushy, slightly obsessive sport, and there’s a whole history of athletes setting the hordes atwitter: Candide, Coombs, Cody. For a particular breed of backcountry big-line dorks, there’s Eric “Hoji” Hjorleifson.

The professional freeskier is known for the way he tackles big alpine lines on tech bindings with a fluid, effortless grace. But the aforementioned boots are also part of the allure. (I never said skiers were cool.) Hoji has helped redesign Dynafit’s cult favorite boots and bindings that are named after him, and he was one of the original designers behind 4FRNT skis.

Now, for gear fanboys and general-interest skiers alike, there’s the full-length film Hoji. Matchstick Productions has filmed Hoji for 15 years, from his days a Whistler park grom to when he brought his big, stomped tricks to the backcountry. A few years ago, director Scott Gaffney mentioned they might have a pretty good movie if they started stringing together some of his projects. “I never really thought through telling the story of myself,” Hoji says. “There’s a lot of anxiety, because you’re exposing your entire life. That’s not really in my character.”

But he saw it as a chance to shape his own narrative and tick off some skiing he’d been dreaming about along the way. There are plenty of big B.C. lines in the film, including one that Hoji says is the scariest thing he’s ever skied, but his favorite segments are some of the mellower ones. For one, he gathered his old coach, father, brother, and friends together at B.C.’s Sentry Lodge. “Some of those people I hadn’t skied with in ten years, and my dad hasn’t ski toured much, so it was really special,” Hoji says.

(Courtesy Matchstick Productions)

Then he channeled the obsessive tinkering he applies to gear engineering into film editing. This fall, Gaffney invited Hoji to visit for four days and go through footage. He ended up crashing for weeks, digging through archive footage from old film shots, along with tape his parents shot when he was in high school. “They were shooting film until 2012, so a lot of the best Matchstick stuff from the first seven years isn’t digital,” Hoji says. “You’ll film now and everyone is watching the shots as they happen, but in the early days I never even got to see the footage till the movie came out, so I’m finding lines and shots I’d never seen before.”

Hoji said he wanted to make the kind of movie he’d like to watch, full of pure skiing and big, flowy complete lines, with a backbone of product development. “I’m quite pleased with how the boot story in particular worked into the film,” he says. “It shows me working on them, then just going directly into film trips and smashing them, then going back and building them out again.” Hoji put in some nods to the superfans, too, including reusing songs from his initial ski film appearances.

He says he’s nervous about how audiences are going react to this look inside his head and his history. “It’s different than skiing,” Hoji says. “The anxiety of skiing, you choose that. It’s kind of an intensity that makes you perform at a high level. This is more broad, and it’s really out of my control.”

But that intensity, and the weirdness, grace, and obsessiveness that come with it, are a big part of what makes Hoji interesting. I’m guessing that once they know more, dudes at the bar are going to have even more questions.

Three More New Athlete-Focused Ski Films

The Regiment

Swedish freeskier Henrik Harlaut is another athlete who has amassed a cult following, because of his creative airs and nontraditional approach. (It takes a special Scandinavian to get the Wu-Tang Clan into skiing.) The Regiment, Harlaut’s two-year ski film project produced by STEPT Studios, dropped on Vimeo in late October.

Finding the Line’ and ‘Kindred

This fall, two films about two different pairs of skiing sisters are traveling the film circuit together. Finding the Line follows the Segal sisters, freeskier Anna and big-mountain rider Natalie, as they confront their individual ideas of fear and how far to push it. Kindred is a look at the Lynch family: how Canadian skiers Zoya and Izzy had their lives changed when their parents bought a backcountry lodge and what that might mean for the next generation.

Avalanche Danger in Colorado Is at a Historic High

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For the first time since forecasting began in 1973, the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC) has predicted extreme avalanche danger in four backcountry zones. The affected zones are Aspen, Vail and Summit County, the Sawatch Range, and Gunnison.

Avalanche conditions are exceptionally dangerous right now, says CAIC forecaster Spencer Logan. “[Avalanches] are running bigger and further than we’ve ever experienced.”

Logan says that the current storm cycle has caused some of the biggest slides in the past 60 years.

The late-season storm cycle that swept across Colorado this week piled thick, wet snow on top of an already unstable snowpack. Persistent weak layers left over from conditions earlier in the season can produce avalanches days, weeks, or even months after storms, and Colorado is dealing with them statewide. According to the CAIC, that combination of heavy snow (the kind that makes really good snowballs) and weak lower layers makes all sizes of slides more likely—and catastrophically large ones especially so.

The organization rates avalanche danger on a five-point scale from low to extreme. An average season won’t typically see extreme danger in a single zone. And in the past five years, only once has the CAIC forecasted extreme danger. According to Logan, this is could be a once-in-a-lifetime event.

Today’s extreme warning indicates that large avalanches are all but certain. “A lot of places that we think of as being relatively safe are not safe right now,” says Logan. “Avalanches are running all the way to valley floors.”

Traveling anywhere near avalanche terrain is really dangerous, even if that terrain has a low angle or is below tree line. Backcountry roads or trailheads near avalanche paths that are typically safe should be avoided. The Colorado Department of Transportation has even closed down large sections of Interstate 70 between Frisco and Vail.

Friday’s forecast in much of Colorado’s mountains will be reduced to high, meaning natural slides are likely and human-triggered slides are very likely, and experts recommend staying out of avalanche terrain entirely. Logan says that conditions can change rapidly.

“More storms are on the way, and weak layers can be unpredictable,” says Logan.

His advice on staying safe? “Avoid the backcountry.”