Mapping the Heart of the Grand Canyon

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On February 26, 1919, President Woodrow Wilson signed the Grand Canyon National Park Act, preserving more than 1.2 million acres of the country’s most spectacularly scenic land “as a public park for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.”

And the people have taken advantage: today the Grand Canyon attracts more than six million visitors a year, exerting an almost magnetic pull on hikers, rafters, explorers, and tourists from all over the world. Artists and writers are also drawn to the canyon, hoping to capture its legendary beauty and breadth. But according to the scientist and explorer John Wesley Powell, who in 1869 led the first-recorded expedition of white men through the canyon, this may be a bootless errand. “The wonders of the Grand Canyon cannot be adequately represented in symbols of speech, nor by speech itself,” Powell wrote. “The resources of the graphic art are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its features. Language and illustration combined must fail.”

One hundred years after Powell’s famous expedition, another explorer was inspired to try to portray the canyon’s grandness through a different medium: cartography. Bradford Washburn’s map, “The Heart of the Grand Canyon,” published by National Geographic in 1978, is still considered by many to be the most beautiful map of the area ever created.

It took eight years of planning, fieldwork, analysis, drafting, painting, and negotiating to create his map of the Grand Canyon. Such an endeavor would be unheard of in today’s digital world. “Maps are simply not made like this anymore,” writes cartographer Ken Field. “It’s the epitome of dedication and commitment to the craft of making a map.”

The story of Washburn’s map, as told in the 2018 National Geographic book All Over the Map: A Cartographic Odyssey, started when Washburn and his wife, Barbara, visited the Grand Canyon in 1969. They had come to acquire a boulder from the bottom of the canyon to display in front of Boston’s Museum of Science, where Washburn was the director. “We were astonished that no good large-scale map was available anywhere,” he recalled. So he decided to make one himself.

At age 60, Washburn was a world-renowned explorer, mountaineer, and photographer with an impressive and unusual résumé. He was the first to ascend more than a dozen peaks in Alaska; he gave Amelia Earhart advice that might have kept her from getting lost had she heeded it; and a book of his mountain photography would one day include a preface written by Ansel Adams. He had led dozens of mountain expeditions, all without any major injuries to his teams. He even once risked his life to rescue three sled dogs from a crevasse. Barbara accompanied him on many of his expeditions and became the first woman to climb the tallest mountain in North America, Alaska’s Mount McKinley (now officially called Denali).

Several of these expeditions were backed by the National Geographic Society, and one resulted in a gorgeous relief map of part of the Saint Elias Mountains on the Alaska-Canada border. In 1939, Washburn became director of the Museum of Science, which provided a small annual research fund of $10,000. In 1970, he used that money to get started on what would become an epic project to map one of the world’s greatest natural wonders.

The first order of business was to get an aerial view of the canyon. Washburn ordered complete coverage from around 26,000 feet and then again from around 16,000 feet. Photos in hand, he and Barbara headed into the canyon for the next step: setting up a survey network in the canyon and along the rim, starting with Yaki Point, which had a known elevation, latitude, and longitude recorded on a USGS brass benchmark hammered into the rock.

Many of the points in their survey were extremely difficult or impossible to reach on foot, so Washburn hired helicopters to get them there. The Washburns and their assistants may have been the first people to ever set foot on some of the canyon’s most remote points.

Often Washburn was dropped off on top of a pinnacle or small buttealong with surveying equipment, such as a state-of-the-art laser range-finder device still under development, on loan from the company that made it. Using a built-in telescope, Washburn would aim the helium-neon laser at a reflecting prism positioned on another point miles away. The laser beam would be reflected back to the range finder, which measured how long the beam’s round-trip took and translated that into distances that were accurate to within 6/100 of an inch per mile. Washburn used a 40-pound surveying instrument called a theodolite to measure the angles between each of the control points, providing him with the relative position and height of each set of points.

After a few weeks in the canyon, Washburn was convinced of the potential for “a map of really superlative beauty as well as topographic quality.” Knowing exactly where to find the expertise, and the funds, needed to realize that potential, he asked the National Geographic Society to join the project.

The society’s archives contain hundreds of pages of correspondence about the project that reveal Washburn’s boundless enthusiasm, penchant for effusive prose, and stubborn commitment to make a map of the highest possible caliber. “The resulting map, if produced with sparkling quality, could be an exciting addition to world cartography,” he wrote in a funding proposal, “and depict one of the world’s most magnificent cartographic challenges.”

In 1971, Washburn got the $30,000 he’d asked for, and in return he promised, “You can count on me leaving no stone unturned to see to it that this job is beautifully executed.”

He wasn’t kidding. Over the next seven years, Washburn sweated every detail, from instructing his team on how to coax helicopter pilots into early-morning flights to how to make the canyon’s cliffs look jagged enough on the map. Along the way, the project doubled in size, from 84 square miles of the South Rim, the most heavily visited area in the canyon, to a 165-square-mile area that included both rims and around 90 percent of the most popular trails.

Every measurement on the ground was double- or triple-checked, with particular attention paid to trails. The Washburns measured nearly every foot of every trail at least once, if not twice, using a wheel with a circumference exactly one-thousandth of a mile. By pushing the wheel along the ground and marking their progress on a special set of aerial photos taken along each trail from around 12,000 feet, they determined the trails’ precise lengths. Not satisfied with just his own measurements, Washburn sent assistants and volunteers into the canyon to retrace his steps with very specific instructions. “If you make a bad mistake, never back up, as the wheel won’t reverse,” he wrote to one volunteer surveyor. “Just stop and cuss a reasonable amount. Then go back to where you know you made your last reliable measurement.”

By 1974, the fieldwork had entailed around a dozen trips by the Washburns that amounted to 147 days in the canyon, almost 700 helicopter landings, thousands of measured distances and angles, and around 100 miles of triple-checked trail measurements. The costs, split between National Geographic and the Museum of Science, had topped $100,000, equivalent to nearly half a million dollars today. But the hardest part was yet to come.

Turning all of this fieldwork into a map would turn out to be just as laborious and twice as complicated as gathering the data. Washburn’s goal was to produce a masterpiece, which meant putting together an all-star team to make the map. “Nothing quite like this has ever been done before,” he wrote to the president of the National Geographic Society.

To translate all the aerial surveys and field measurements into contour lines on a base map, Washburn hired a New York mapping company that he deemed “extraordinarily expert in this intricate work.” For what he considered “the most complex and challenging shaded-relief project ever attempted,” he insisted on engaging the universally acclaimed Swiss Federal Office of Topography (also known as Swisstopo). The rest would be in the hands of National Geographic’s own world-class cartography shop.

Washburn directed every aspect of the map’s creation and had his say on each detail. He corrected contour lines so that the sharp corners of trails lined up precisely with creek crossings, worried about what sort of line should represent ephemeral streams, and debated how much blue shading should be used in the shadows. He was particularly concerned that the canyon’s distinctive colors be captured faithfully, so he ordered yet another aerial survey, this time in color, “in order to give the cartographers a very accurate understanding, not only of the color of the rock, but also the exact extent of trees and other vegetation.”

Even then, Washburn wasn’t satisfied. He arranged for a cartographer from Switzerland and another from National Geographic to be flown to the canyon to see the colors for themselves. Internal National Geographic memos about the project reveal a sort of admiring exasperation with his determination in comments such as, “Bradford Washburn will not take no for an answer!” and “Bradford Washburn never gives up!”

The Swiss cartographers were, and still are, unrivaled in their ability to give mountains and cliff faces the illusion of three dimensions with a technique known as hachuring, which involves drawing short, precise lines in the direction of the slope. According to Washburn, it would sometimes take them “more than a day of intense labor to produce a few square centimeters of cliffs.” To date, cartographers have been unable to top the handiwork of the Swiss.

“I think everyone would agree that the manual rock hachuring that you see on Washburn’s map, and other maps made by Swisstopo, is just wonderful,” says Tom Patterson, a cartographer for the National Park Service whose own work mapping the canyon has been inspired by Washburn’s map. “It’s basically state-of-the art and hasn’t been replicated by digital tools.”

National Geographic’s Swiss-trained cartographer, Tibor Tóth, painted the relief shading onto the map. The Grand Canyon map was the largest and most time-consuming relief map Tóth worked on during his 22 years at National Geographic. By his account, it took 1,074.5 hours to paint it.

In the end, all that work paid off exactly as Washburn hoped: the map is exceptional, both technically and aesthetically. National Geographic produced two versions of “The Heart of the Grand Canyon” map, one at the full 33-by-34-inch size and another covering slightly less territory as a supplement to the July 1978 issue of National Geographic magazine, putting it in the hands of more than ten million readers around the world.

Today this sort of arduous, time-intensive data collection has been largely supplanted by GPS technology. But the artistry of the map has arguably not been surpassed. “Washburn’s ‘Heart of the Grand Canyon’ map is still the gold standard for Grand Canyon mapping today,” Patterson says.

This article has been adapted from All Over the Map: A Cartographic Odyssey, published in October 2018.

27.5+ Tires, the Goldilocks of the Mountain-Bike World

Rumors of my favorite tire size’s death are greatly exaggerated. (I hope.)

Recently I was catching up on the latest bike marketing propaganda on a popular cycling site when I came across the following:

The perennial wheel- and tyre-size debate never seems to disappear, and we reckon for 2019 it will still feature heavily over a post-ride drink.

While fat tyres seem to have largely disappeared, and true plus widths never quite caught on, from the 2019 bikes we’ve seen so far it looks like 2.5in and 2.6in rubber might just make its mark.

Wait, what? Plus-sized tires “never quite caught on,” really? As the owner of no fewer than two (2) bicycles with 27.5+ wheels, I suddenly felt self-conscious, like the kid who shows up at school in last season’s sneakers.

So could this be true? Was I really rolling around on a dated, outmoded wheelsize? I headed immediately to the website of a certain popular bicycle brand with a reputation for being something of a plus-sized gorilla in the industry. Poring over their roughly 4,000 different mountain bike offerings, it was admittedly difficult for me to make sense of their various model names and proprietary terminology (“6Fattie” sounds like a six-patty sandwich from Burger King, not a tire size), but it did in fact appear there were now only five (5) bikes with plus-sized tires. (“Plus” meaning a width of at least three inches.) Surely if this company was no longer cashing in on the chubby tire craze, then there was no craze left to exploit, and I was now like those poor saps still riding around on that same company’s taxi-themed fixies after the bottom fell out of the track bike market back in 2010.

This was a vexing development, because I have found the 27.5+ tire size to be nothing short of fantastic. I love the Velcro-like traction on climbs. I love a tire that swallows roots like a bursaphelenchus xylophilus. (That’s a thing that eats roots, apparently.) I love not having to deliberate over my bike choice because I’ve got one (well, two) that can handle pretty much everything. And more than anything, I love enjoying many of the benefits of suspension without having to necessarily resort to a costly, finicky, and obsolescence-prone suspension bicycle.

Of course, when you start suggesting that all-terrain cycling can be enjoyable without suspension, the baggy-shorts set gets very touchy. Indeed, when I dared suggest that riding rigid bikes can be awesome I received actual email about how I was putting people in danger by telling them that it’s okay to go mountain biking without using suspension. As it turns out, while traditionally the roadies are the ones who have a reputation for being persnickety, it is in fact mountain bikers for whom a half-degree of head angle here or there is a source of outrage. To them, the notion that rigid bikes are awesome is apostasy. This can make the most terminal cassette-flossing, tan-line-obsessed, Rapha-swaddled roadie seem like a stoner on a beach cruiser in comparison.

Obviously there is a permanent place for suspension bikes in the vast cycling firmament, just as there is for time trial bikes and recumbents and trials bikes and all manner of contraptions that have been engineered for a particular use case. (“Use case” is technical jargon for “use.”) At the same time, the bicycle industry seems to react in a roundabout way when it comes to riding off-road. Common wisdom holds that the gravel bike was a response to the limitations of the road bike, but wasn’t it just as much of a response to the limitations of all those over-suspended mountain bikes ill-suited to the long haul? Basically with gravel bikes and “road plus” and all the rest of it, we’ve just reinvented the rigid mountain bike and added drop bars—which is pretty much exactly what John Tomac was riding almost 30 years ago.

Given the timeless allure of riding simple, efficient bikes off-road, I’m puzzled by these dire prognostications when it comes to plus-sized tires, which are a major boon in that department. For months, I’ve been riding a Jones Plus SWB Complete (the stock tires are 27.5 x 3.00), and while it may not be the first bike I’d choose for rides on the most extreme ends of the road/mountain bike spectrum, it’s absolutely fantastic for pretty much everything in between. It’s the kind of bike you can hop on with no particular destination in mind and know that no matter where you wind up it’s got you covered. This is of course a function of the bike’s overall geometry and design, but a key aspect of that design is its ability to clear those apparently out-of-fashion plus-sized tires.

You don’t need a particularly aggressive tread pattern to get plenty of traction out of a three-inch tire on the trails, and thanks to this, it will also roll acceptably well on the road, which is especially great if you’re the sort of person who enjoys riding to the ride. Essentially, the versatility of a bicycle increases proportionately to its tire width. (The two lines on the chart do diverge eventually, but that happens somewhere between 3.0 and Full Fat.)

Sure, I’ve read complaints that plus-sized tires require you to pay extra attention to #whatpressureyourerunning so that they’re not too bouncy, but since when are cyclists afraid of dialing in their tire pressure? Cyclists seem to be able to rationalize the purchase of $159 tire pressure gauges even without plus-sized tires. And yet, while plus-size is now uncool, apparently 2.6 is pefectly au courant. Go figure.

Most absurd of all is that wheel and tire size is framed as a “debate” in the first place. It’s like debating what size underpants everybody should wear. I mean hey, size down if you want, but I’ll keep enjoying the extra wiggle room.

The Perfect Rifle for Hunting in the Mountains

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Last summer I moved to Montana. Along with things like adopting a third dog and permanently affixing merino wool to my skin, that meant I needed to upgrade my hunting rifle. Not only are the animals bigger up here, but the mountains are, too. And I think I found a gun that’s not only incredibly light, but also extremely durable, and as accurate as anything else out there.

Let me tell you why I think this Christensen Arms Ridgeline is the perfect rifle for the backcountry. 

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The Ridgeline is Christensen Arms’ no-frills hunting rifle. Just here that means you get a carbon-fiber barrel attached to a machined-from-billet stainless steel action, which is connected to a carbon composite stock with Invar pillars. There's also an adjustable trigger, a radial muzzle brake, and a Limbsaver recoil pad. Any one of those features would typically be afixed to a rifle with a much higher price tag. Together, they represent extraordinary value. 

I went for one chambered in .300 Winchester Magnum, which is a heavy-hitting, flat-shooting caliber capable of ethically harvesting any animal in North America. That’s especially important here in Montana, where sneaking around in the mountains, possibly with a bunch of meat on your back, means you might run into a grizzly bear. With the long action and 26-inch barrel required for a magnum caliber, the rifle weighs just 6.8 pounds thanks to all that carbon fiber. 

Christensen has a background in manufacturing composites for the aerospace and medical industries. The precise tolerances and consistent quality required by those worlds translates well to firearms. The company developed the first carbon-fiber rifle barrel in the mid 1990s, and with the Ridgeline, has brought that technology down to a price level that’s competitive with mid-quality rifles made from more traditional materials. But even at $1,995, I haven’t found anything on the Ridgeline that’s not nicer than any other gun I’ve ever fired. And it's thousands of dollars cheaper than other rifles with similar specs. 

The Ridgeline’s most distinctive feature is obviously its carbon-fiber barrel. That material actually wraps around a very thin stainless steel inner barrel, adding strength and shedding heat. So you get a very burly barrel for the weight of a very light one. Inside that barrel, the rifling is inspected to a tolerance of .0001 inches, contributing in a big way to this rifle's accuracy. 

Also shedding weight and adding a distinctive look in the process is the spiral-fluted bolt, which is matched by a fluted shroud and bolt knob. The bolt is fitted with an AR-15-style extractor, which for magnum calibers includes two ejectors for extremely reliable operation.

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Obviously I needed to put a really good scope on such a nice rifle. But my budget doesn’t run to Swarovski, Zeiss, or Leica glass, so I turned to Maven, a new company out of Wyoming that manufacturers in Japan and sells direct-to-consumer. Fortunately, its flagship scope isn’t just an ideal pairing for the Ridgeline, it also costs just $1,200—about half what you'd expect to spend for a similar product from a legacy brand. 

The RS.1 has a zoom range that goes from 15x all the way down to just 2.5x. At full magnification, that means it's able to take full advantage of the .300 Win Mag’s incredible long range performance for target shooting. Its rare to see such a powerful scope that’s also capable of zooming out so far, which means this setup is also perfect for close-in shots and in tight cover. With its wide field of view, the 2.5x setting is ideal for stalking animals in the woods, when a quick shot might be necessary. It’ll also be good for bear defense, for the same reason. The other nice thing about the RS.1 is that its reticle (the crosshairs) is etched onto its first focal plane, which mean its points of impact remain the same, no matter the magnification level. 

The 1.5-pound RS.1 has a large 44mm objective lens, and a 30mm main tube, which add up to an amazing ability to capture light—crucial for hunting at dusk and dawn or in dense woods. It also has an incredibly generous 100 MOA (or minute of angle) of available adjustment for elevation, and 70 for windage, both set in 1/4 MOA clicks. I think I used around 7 MOA of elevation when I zeroed-in. I haven’t yet shot the rifle past 600 yards, but there’s more than enough adjustment there to take shots out to three times that, without swapping in a new base. (A minute of angle corresponds to one inch at 100 yards.) 

Despite its mid-level price, there’s nothing about the RS.1 that doesn’t feel top-notch. The glass is incredibly clear, the anodizing on the body is flawless, the adjustments click around with total precision, and the magnification knob is perfectly damped. Mounting it to the Ridgeline for the first time, I was struck by how easy it was to achieve perfect eye relief. I’ve kept the scope in the same position in which it was first mounted ever since. 

There are two reticles available: an intricately hashmarked long range design in minutes of angle and a simplified hunting reticle that will help compensate for bullet drop without filling up the entire field of view. I opted for the long range option so I can go target shooting with friends, but in the field, would prefer the simpler option. 

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Before I ordered the rifle, a retired Marine Raider buddy texted me that his Ridgeline (also a .300 Win Mag) “shoots like an AR-15, thanks to that muzzle brake.” And he’s not wrong. Chambered in this extremely powerful caliber, the Ridgeline makes a very loud noise, but produces very little felt recoil. 

That was the first surprise when I initially took the rifle to the range to sight it in. The second was that with it, I was shooting sub-one-inchfrom the very first shots.Modern production technology has made such performance fairly standard, but it still feels reassuring to sit down behind a new rifle, and work on enlarging a single hole in a piece of paper, rather than just poke a bunch of random ones. 

The third surprise was that the Ridgeline maintained that accuracy throughout an 80-round session, with occasional quick pauses to swab the barrel, but without long breaks to allow it to cool. Aside from the occasional flyer caused by my own ineptitude, almost every group I shot managed to fall within one inch. Christensen employs two technologies that help minimize heat-related expansion and its impact on accuracy: the carbon-wrapped barrel and the Invar pillars. Carbon doesn’t retain heat in the same way steel does, so this barrel seems to cool faster than a traditional one. Invar is an aerospace alloy that has virtually no heat deformation, so the barrel’s relationship to the stock remains consistent regardless of temperature. 

Neither the Ridgeline’s extreme accuracy, nor its ability to shrug off heat generated by long shot strings are terribly applicable in the field. The smallest animal I’ll ever use this rifle on is a deer and even on a very small one of those, I have about an eight-inch circle to work with; within that any shot will result in an ethical kill. And, while hunting, you’re hopefully only taking a single shot. But it’s nice to know the rifle isn’t the limiting factor and it’s also probably practical that a very cold morning at elevation won’t alter the rifle’s accuracy. 

Combine those features with the durability of the rifle’s construction and its lack of recoil and you just have a very confidence-inspiring package. The Ridgeline is going to hit what you point it at even if the weather’s bad, and even if it’s been bouncing around on your shoulder for days during the hike in, and even if you drop it. And it does all that in one extremely light package. 

Confidence was what I felt hunting with it in the Absaroka Mountains last fall. With the move, Montana’s early deadline for its big game drawing, and its insistence on ruling me out of state until I’d lived here 180 days, I ended up with leftover doe tags. I took a whitetail on archery, then brought the Ridgeline along when I went looking for mule deer. This caliber is overkill for a doe, but a well-placed standing shot from 100 yards ensured that I didn’t lose any meat. Hopefully I’ll be able to say the same about a bull elk this September. 

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  • The brake and pad add up to about the same recoil as my braked 5.56…just here from a 200-grain .300 Win Mag.
  • From the carbon barrel to the billet action, to the fluted bolt, this is one very handsome rifle.
  • Light enough to carry for days on end.
  • Impervious to weather.
  • More accurate than I am.
  • Trigger adjusts down to 2.5 pounds and breaks crisply.
  • Easy, intuitive, and positive safety mechanism.
  • The brake makes shooting this thing at a range positively anti-social. But I’m afraid taking it off might mean I’m practicing different than I’m hunting.
  • I’ve never gotten along with hinged floor plate magazines, and this one only holds three rounds in magnum calibers.
  • I should have gone for the simpler scope reticle.

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I’m pretty sure this is the first gun review you’ll ever read on Outside. It’s certainly the first one I’ve ever written. Why now and why here? I thought this rifle-scope package was special enough that it merited the coverage, and its attributes make it uniquely applicable to the kind of adventure hunting we find exciting. It’s light, it’s durable, it shoots straight, and it won’t even bruise your shoulder. It’s expensive enough that it probably won’t be your first hunting rifle, but it's also nice enough that it just might be your last. 

What’s Next in the Quest for a Sub-Two-Hour Marathon?

The man who raised the possibility of the feat back in 1991 takes another look into the crystal ball

The dust has settled. Eliud Kipchoge’s stunning marathon world record of 2:01:39 is in the books, and already the chatter is starting to look to the future. What comes next? Much of the talk has focused on how much faster current runners (including Kipchoge himself) can run, and how future marathons could be optimized to enable even lower times—for example with a record-eligible version of Nike’s Breaking2 race, complete with better weather and more competent pacemakers than Kipchoge had in Berlin.

Michael Joyner, the Mayo Clinic physiologist and human performance expert who’s been beating the two-hour-marathon drum longer than anyone, has a slightly different take. Sure, a yearly Breaking2-type event funded by a deep-pocketed sponsor would be great, he agrees. But the really interesting question is not what comes next, but who comes next—and how we can generate more Kipchoge-level talents in the not-so-distant future.

Here’s a lightly edited version of a conversation I had with him over email.


OUTSIDE: How unique do you think Kipchoge is? Is he a once-in-a-generation talent, or are there more like him who just need to be developed and nurtured appropriately?
JOYNER: When I think about the physiology of people like Kipchoge, I start with VO2max, lactate threshold, and running economy, factors that when integrated both explain and predict marathon performance pretty well. The values for Kipchoge from the Nike 2017 effort have not been released and I have no inside scoop on exactly what they are, but I doubt they’re crazy high.

That’s the sense I got too when I was reporting on Breaking2. Lelisa Desisa and Zersenay Tadese both apparently had super-impressive lab testing, but I got the impression from what the scientists said that Kipchoge was pretty normal for an elite athlete. He was selected because he was the Olympic champion, not because he had an off-the-charts VO2max. 
My guess is that his running economy is also either very good or outstanding. And he trains more than enough to maximize the mitochondrial and vascular adaptations in his leg muscles that will get his lactate threshold to 85 percent of his max or perhaps higher. A number of years ago, exercise physiology pioneer Dave Costill told me that Derek Clayton, who ran 2:08 in the late 1960s with a surprisingly low VO2max, could sustain about 85 percent of this VO2max at marathon pace. If Kipchoge is similar, he doesn’t need a crazy VO2max to run 2:01:39. So yes, he’s absolutely outstanding in all three key domains, but he is probably not a physiological superman or freak of nature as elite endurance athletes go.

Is there anything about Kipchoge’s upbringing and environment that makes him different from other elite marathoners?
We've all heard that Kenyan and Ethiopian runners get high levels of physical activity at high altitude from an early age. One underappreciated fact is that being born and growing up at high altitude stimulates lung growth, and altitude natives have about a 50 percent increase in lung surface area. This could be important because data that has emerged based on physiologist Jerry Dempsey’s work over the last 30 or 40 years that in at least some elite athletes, the lung can be limiting during very heavy exercise.

The other thing I find interesting about Kipchoge is his small size even for an elite marathoner.  This means his surface-area-to-volume ratio is high and ideal for heat dissipation, and we saw in the Rio Olympics that he does well in the heat.    

Conventional wisdom says the next Kipchoge will come from Kenya or Ethiopia. Do you think that's inevitable?
I have this crazy talent ID plan that I hope one of the deep-pocketed shoe companies will sponsor. It goes like this: go to the high-altitude big cities in the Andes and find all of the 14- to 16-year-olds who are enthusiastic soccer players, both boys and girls. Have them do an 800-meter or 1,000-meter time trial and take the top 5 percent or so of finishers and get them training for distance running. If you screened thousands of people, who knows what kind of talent you might find. From the 1970s into the 1990s there was this made-for-TV faux decathlon called the “Superstars” that included a half-mile run (around 800m), and the soccer player Brian Budd went 1:57 and change in 1979. I have always wondered if he was in the wrong sport.

I also wonder what might be out in the Himalayas, and back in the late 1970s I was living in Arizona and saw firsthand what the Native Americans of the Four Corners region of the Southwestern U.S. could do.  

What about elsewhere in North America and other developed countries? Are there any future marathon champions lurking there? If so, what do we need to do to find them?
Frankly, there is a lot of wasted aerobic talent in North America in particular, and rich countries in general. Rusty Woods, an emerging elite cyclist who won a stage at the Vuelta last week, was a sub-four-minute miler who had injury problems as a runner, only to have his potentially wasted talent rescued via bike racing.  

In this context, all of us old-timers have stories about some kid who went out for track after playing basketball and magically ran a 4:18 mile on minimal training and then vanished into the great wasteland of unexplored talent. Over the years I have also followed U.S. high school times and there are literally thousands of boys each year who break 4:30 for the mile or run an equivalent time for 1500m. I picked 4:30 as my index time based on an off-the-cuff comment that Frank Shorter supposedly once made: “How did I know you ran a 4:30 mile in high school? That’s easy. Everyone ran a 4:30 mile in high school.”

The epigraph from Once A Runner!
Who knows how many of these kids have ever trained seriously and how many keep running in college and eventually run marathons after years of serious training. My sense is only a small fraction, and this is among kids who have actually run in a race. Who knows what might happen with a truly comprehensive talent ID and retention program. I am not sure you could get Kipchoges out of it, but my guess is you could get more Galen Rupps. And with enough Galen Rupps an extreme, extreme outlier like Kipchoge might turn up. Anyone who thinks North Americans are destined to never catch the East Africans should watch the video clip of 20-year-old Jim Ryun running an unpaced 3:51.1 mile on a dirt track in 1967. 

Anything else on your mind after watching Kipchoge’s record?
With endurance athletes like Kipchoge and the swimmer Katie Ledecky on the scene, we’re getting master classes on some of the topics covered in your book. Their ability to simultaneously push themselves maximally and at the same time stay relaxed and focused is a real treat and absolutely remarkable. As we have discussed many times, this is also a trainable skill accessible to us all that can carry over to many elements of life. 


My new book, Endure: Mind, Body, and the Curiously Elastic Limits of Human Performance, with a foreword by Malcolm Gladwell, is now available. For more, join me on Twitter and Facebook, and sign up for the Sweat Science email newsletter.

The Best Winter Jackets for Outdoor Sports

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Winter cold and wind call for a serviceable jacket. But picking the right model depends on the activity you’ll be using it for. For this test, we evaluated more than 100 men’s and women’s jackets built for resort riding, backcountry exploration, running, and nordic skiing. The Eddie Bauer BC EverTherm Down was our top choice for all-around use—it packs warm and lightweight down feathers inside a weather-resistant shell, making it incredibly versatile—but we also identified eight other jackets (reviewed below) that proved their worth in winter conditions.

Like the old business joke, “Good, fast, cheap: pick any two,” winter jackets are traditionally a trade-off between warm, light, and waterproof. Eddie’s Bauer’s new BC EverTherm down jacket checks all three boxes. Its 45 grams of Thindown insulation (more on that later) is very warm, and the 15-denier seam-taped waterproof-breathable shell offers weather protection without bulk. The whole thing weighs just 1.1 pounds. That’s not a brand-new recipe, but the EverTherm executes it beautifully.

An important piece of the jacket’s success is the insulation. Rather than blowing loose feathers into baffles like most down jackets, Eddie Bauer sandwiched layers of down into sheets, called Thindown, which don’t need to be sewn in place. This avoids the heat loss that normally occurs through the thousands of stitches on a quilted jacket. The BC EverTherm is just as warm as heavier, bulkier puffies, like the Patagonia Fitzroy down parka or Black Diamond Mission down parka, but it’s lighter and more packable.

Another highlight is the face fabric. It’s on the lighter, thinner end of the spectrum but withstood a year’s worth of lift rides and being yanked out of backpacks. It’s also surprisingly breathable: worn over sweat-soaked midlayers, it allowed some moisture to move through, and we didn’t feel clammy after four laps up the skin track.

Otherwise, Eddie Bauer has kept the feature set relatively light: a long hem in lieu of a powder skirt, three hood adjusters, and five pockets, including an interior mesh pouch big enough to for a hat, gloves, or fat powder skins.

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Riding lifts lets you get away with wearing heavier, feature-rich jackets, because you’re not hiking up every hill you descend. Our favorite jacket in this category is Picture’s Signe (the men’s version is called the Goods), which kept us warm skiing in-bounds for hours on ten-degree days.

The Signe is 2.6 pounds (the Goods is 2.8 pounds), with a corn-based insulation called Synthetic Sorona that’s strategically placed—or “body mapped,” in technical terms—in thick baffles across the back and omitted under the arms for breathability in high-heat zones. The shell fabric is 46 percent recycled polyester and treated with a PFC-free, durable water repellent. (PFCs are often used in DWR treatments, but they’re bad for the environment and our health.) The waterproof-breathable membrane is recyclable.

In practice, the Signe kept us dry in heavy snow and handled the temperature swings of stop-and-go skiing. On bitterly cold lift rides, we could warm our noses in the tall inset collar, which is wide enough to accommodate a neck gaiter and helmet strap. The generous hood fit over a range of helmet models. Breathability, aided by pit zips, was good enough for a jacket in this category, and we never felt damp or chilled on lifts after high-output power laps in the trees.

Other features we appreciated: stretchy wrist gaiters and a removable powder skirt, both of which helped seal out snow during an 18-inch powder day. There’s also a dedicated ski-pass pocket in the sleeve and a leashed goggle cloth in another pocket.

There are plenty of other good jackets in this category. The Black Crows Corpus Insulated jacket ($599) costs more but weighs less (2.2 pounds) for the same features—a powder skirt, cuff gaiters, pit zips, and synthetic PrimaLoft insulation. The Columbia OutDry Diamond Piste jacket ($650) boasts 800-fill down, weighs just two pounds, and has pit zips, a snow skirt, cuff gaiters, and a ski-pass pocket. Two things things held them back from becoming top picks: they’re too warm on anything but the coldest days, and they cost significantly more than the Signe.

Men’s Women’s 


When it comes to lightweight gear, you can expect to pay more to get less—and that’s true of the 15-ounce Ventus Light (1.3 pounds in men’s sizing). Plenty of jackets drop weight by using minimalist construction. But it’s this jacket’s mix of features, weight, and durability that makes it extremely practical. Five capacious exterior and interior pockets hold everything from climbing skins to snacks. Adjustments at the chin and the back of the head keep the hood snug around a helmet, so we could look up a steep slope without being blinded by loose fabric or letting in a blast of wind. A patch of fleece prevents the collar from sandpapering your chin. The pit zips are 21 inches long and use a three-way zipper for maximum adjustability. There’s no powder skirt, but a band of silicone inside the hem did a good job of keeping out snow as long as we stayed on our feet. (A little did sneak in when we face-planted).

But our favorite feature was the fabric, which successfully walks a fine line the line between durability and weight. The three-layer construction features Gore-Tex C-Knit, which is less breathable but more rugged than other Gore-Tex materials, and a light, stretchy 70-denier face fabric that’s tough enough to resist punctures but thin enough to breathe. (We only noticed sweat building up during hard, sustained climbs.) Plus the inside of the jacket feels soft next to the skin and stays flexible even in ultracold conditions. That’s not true for jackets (such as the Patagonia PowSlayer, $699) that use Gore-Tex Pro, which is more durable than C-Knit but becomes stiff and brittle when the mercury drops.

The FlyLow Vixen Coat 2.1 ($375) gives women a cheaper but heavier alternative to the Ventus Light. It’s also waterproof, soft, and stretchy but weighs seven ounces more. The women’s Pfeifferhorn and the men’s Grizzly Gulch ($430, a collaboration between Backcountry and FlyLow) improve on the Ventus Light’s breathability by using sweat-dumping Polartec NeoShell. And while both are three ounces lighter, they’re also more minimalist, with fewer small pockets. We preferred Ventus Light’s feature-rich design.

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ää($330)

Sometimes you don’t want to look like you’re strutting around the Gasherbrum III base camp just to take a ski tour. The Fjällräven Keb Touring jacket has an understated, classic peacoat look that’s as at home stepping out to dinner on a Friday night as it is stepping onto the Jackson Hole tram. A pair of pockets large enough for climbing skins or a small pantry of snacks are placed on the chest, out of the way from your backpack’s hipbelt. The whole jacket is water-resistant, and a wax waterproof coating on the shoulders and lower back offers additional protection from a pack’s wear points, which tend to gather moisture. Zippered vents on the torso make the Keb Touring even more breathable, something our testers liked when they were hammering up boot-packs with their skis strapped to their packs.

Like all good soft shells, this jacket is stretchier, suppler, and more breathable than a hard shell like the Ventus Light, which would leave you sweat soaked if you wore it during vigorous activity. The downside is that soft shells are not fully waterproof. The Keb Touring is not the jacket we’d reach for during an all-day storm, but to fend off flurries on shorter outings, it’s just right.

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($199)

Running on snowy or icy roads takes a lot of motivation, and having a sweet jacket helped us get out the door all winter. The Arc’teryx Argus (the Gaea is the women’s version) is the nicest aerobic piece we tested this year. It has a thin layer of very breathable synthetic insulation on the shoulders and chest and all the way up the tall, zip-up collar, but a stretchy soft-shell material on the back panel kept us from overheating. We liked the built-in thumb loops and smartphone pocket, a phone-size elastic pouch inside the right hand-pocket with a media port to feed your headphones up inside the jacket. In the back panel, two angled pockets are great for stashing gloves, snacks, or a hat, and they also feature another smartphone pouch (if the hand-pocket unit doesn’t suit your running style). The Argus is snug but seemed to fit almost every tester body type, thanks to smart tailoring and a generous amount of stretch.

Men’s Women’s

($360)

First Lite designed the Chamberlain Down to keep hunters warm while they squat in a 40-degree November drizzle. It’s stuffed with 300 grams of800-fill down that’s blended with a mix of synthetic and carbon fibers, which absorb moisture that would otherwise impair the loft of traditional down insulation. A durable DWR coating and high collar keep you warm even in blowing sleet.

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Salewa Sesvenna Polartec Alpha ($225)

This hybrid jacket exploits the properties of four different fabrics and insulations—windproof Pertex Quantum on the chest and shoulders; breathable and stretchy soft shell under the arms and across the back; Polartec Alpha insulation on the chest, shoulders, and hood; and Polartec Alpha Direct fleece for breathability on the sides of the torso. The result still moves moisture on hours-long climbs but plenty warm and weatherproof for windy ridges. It’ll work best when you can pull out a lightweight shell when the wind really kicks up.

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($599)

The main feature of note on the Hemispheres is a set of zippers that extend from the arm to the hem for poncho-style venting, which may appeal to backcountry skiers who don’t want to stop to drop a layer or who need to vent when the snow is falling too fast to go without a hard shell. The waterproof stretch fabric offers a better range of motion than the Ventus Light, but it’s also about five ounces heavier.

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Test directors Kelly Bastone and Frederick Reimers have been reviewing winter gear and apparel for more than 25 years combined. Reimers lives in Jackson, Wyoming, where he earns his turns on Teton Pass and plumbs the steeps at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. He’s also a winter runner, fat biker, and skate skier. Bastone lives in Steamboat Springs, Colorado. Like Reimers, she divides her time between lift-served skiing and backcountry powder missions and also logs a few miles each week on her local nordic trails.

For this test, we also recruited a team of seven winter athletes (alpine skiers, nordic skiers, runners, backcountry tourers, and snowshoers) to round out our perspectives. We asked broad-shouldered guys to test the jackets’ freedom of movement, and we put women’s jackets on various body shapes to confirm their fit and performance. We tested insulation on negative-ten-degreedays, evaluated breathability during climbs up Glory Peak on Teton Pass, assessed waterproofness in sleet, and measured sweat-vapor diffusion on skate-skiing sprints.

With most manufacturers having access to the best factories, designers, and materials, nearly every jacket you’ll find at a reputable retailer is well-made. So the primary determining factor is whether the jacket you are considering is suited for the way you’ll use it.

For running or nordic skiing, you’ll want something light and breathable—either a thinly insulated piece or a shell to block wind and snow. For resort skiing, an insulated jacket cuts down on constrictive layers and is nice when the ski lift suddenly stops. For backcountry touring, you’ll need something breathable for the way up and something warm for the ski down. If there’s precipitation, you’ll want both to be at least water-resistant, if not waterproof. And, as always in the backcountry, light makes right.

Of course, every jacket design comes with trade-offs. Wear that pared-down running piece on the skin track and you might wish you had a hood when a sidewind comes howling over the ridge. That cozy resort jacket may end up soaked with sweat when you ditch your kids to chase your buddies up a boot-pack. Down jackets offer the most warmth for their weight but will become utterly useless if the snow turns to a downpour and the down feathers clump together, forfeiting their insulating loft.  

We’d all love a quiver of jackets dialed to every separate activity, but if that’s just not in your budget, a hard-shell parka made with a waterproof, breathable fabric is your best purchase. You can always stack insulating layers beneath it on cold days or make due on sweatier outings with judicious venting. Look for something with a large hood for times when you wear a helmet, and a loose enough cut for layering, and you can make it work for most any condition.

Speaking of fit, always try a jacket on before you buy. Every manufacturer has a slightly different cut. European manufacturers tend to make their tops longer and leaner, and mountaineering-oriented companies like Arc’teryx will have longer sleeves—a nod to climbers who spend much of their time with their arms overhead. Some companies tailor specific lines in their collection: aerobic pieces will be trimmer, while downhill ski coats will be roomier in the torso for throwing flips in the terrain park, if not just aggressive riding in general.

Down provides the best warmth-to-weight ratio of all lofted insulations. Its fill is rated from 400 to 1,000, with higher numbers being loftier and therefore warmer for the weight. But untreated down is useless if it gets wet. Some companies blend down and nondown fibers to help move moisture from the insulation. Others treat it with hydrophobic chemicals. For fail-safe insulation in soggy conditions, look for synthetic insulation by companies like Polartec and PrimaLoft.

Waterproof jackets are usually built from two- or three-layer fabrics, which have a waterproof-breathable membrane either adhered to a face fabric and protected by a mesh liner or sandwiched between a face fabric and backer. Three-layer fabrics tend to hold up better over time and are more breathable. Some companies make two-layer shells without the hung liner, like Gore-Tex’s Shake Dry, but those are fragile and intended for fast and light alpine missions.

Both hard shells and soft shells are usually treated with a chemical coating of durable waterproof repellent (DWR) that will shed moisture. Though those coatings lose their efficacy over time, they can be refreshed with a quick rotation through the washer and dryer.

A plastic trash bag is totally waterproof, but wear one cross-country skiing and you’ll end up soaked from your own sweat. Most waterproof jackets—from shells to insulated resort ski jackets—now use a breathable membrane that helps move moisture through the face fabric. But any waterproof membrane is still less breathable than a soft shell. Some hydrid layers, like the Salewa, have water-resistant material on the areas most exposed to precipitation, like the shoulders and hood, and breathable fabric in high-heat areas, like the underarms and back.

Lastly, a word about ventilation: openings on the chest can funnel cool air into the torso better than pit zips, but many manufacturers avoid them because consumers expect vents in the armpit. Our favorite air-flow features pull double duty as large, mesh-backed chest pockets.

Resort ski jackets are particularly known for being full featured, with powder skirts to keep out snow, zip-off hoods, wrist gaiters that seal in heat, and goggle wipes tethered to the inside of a pocket. Speaking of pockets, some jackets will come with as many as nine! The trade-off to all that is weight. Mountaineers don’t want to lug those zippers up and down peaks. In addition, as a jacket designer once observed: “The more times you perforate the shell, the less waterproof a jacket is.”

As with a jacket’s bells and whistles, the trade-off to durability is weight. Thicker, heavier fabrics are simply more durable. A good proxy for durability is a fabric’s denier, which will usually range from 15 or 20, as tends to be found in an ultralightweight down vest, to 80, like in a ski parka’s face fabric. Higher-denier fabrics can brush up against trees and shoulder ski edges without issue.

The price of jackets is determined by the quality of materials and the features it sports, which require additional labor to install. Higher-rated down fills and name-brand waterproof-breathable fabrics will particularly drive up the price of a jacket, though we don’t always see a large performance difference between material companies. Most are pretty good, but some brands charge a premium based on their reputation for fit, durability, or social consciousness.

What We Know About Vitamin D and Performance

The benefits are still murky, but experts say there’s no harm in adding more to your diet

Vitamin D is an essential nutrient that regulates some 1,000 processes in the body, and doctors have long known its importance to bone density and preventing the related illnesses like rickets and osteoporosis. Now researchers are beginning to study its role in athletic performance. While an extra dose of vitamin D might increase muscle strength and endurance, the science is far from settled. Still, many athletes are eyeing the vitamin for possible performance gains.

Given that the science is still young, is it worth hitting the drugstore? To find out, we reached out to some experts to understand what we know about the nutrient and what that means for athletes.

The Basics of Vitamin D

The main sources of vitamin D are sunshine and certain foods, including salmon, cod liver oil, and fortified cereal and dairy products. The USDA suggests an intake of 600 International Units per day, or 800 IU for adults over 70. You can easily meet that recommendation by spending 15 minutes outside on a sunny day.

In athletes, a vitamin D deficiency increases your risk of stress fractures, anemia, and a weakened immune system—all of which can hurt performance. In a study of 214 NFL players, scientists observed more muscle injuries in athletes with lower vitamin D levels. There’s no clear consensus about how widespread the deficiency is. In 2015 review, scientists found that about 56 percent of athletes had inadequate levels of the vitamin. Still, in a large-scale review, researchers at the National Academy of Medicine (then the U.S. Institute of Medicine) observed that, on average, Americans’ vitamin D levels appeared fine.

One cause of this discrepancy is that scientists don’t agree on the definition of “adequate” when it comes to vitamin D levels. The most common test for the nutrient measures a precursor version of its hormone form—the form of the vitamin that is actually used by the body. Sometimes this precursor doesn’t predict how much vitamin D exists in hormone form. Certain researchers, like those with the Endocrine Society, argue for higher concentration thresholds than than those of the National Academy of Medicine.

That said, some factors might increase your likelihood of a deficiency, such as living far away from the equator. During the Canadian winter, for example, it’s nearly impossible for your body to naturally produce vitamin D, says Dylan Dahlquist, a researcher and editor at Science Driven Nutrition. To prevent skin cancer, many people avoid unfiltered sun exposure entirely, says Graeme Close, a professor of sport and exercise sciences at Liverpool John Moores University. Though Close advises precautionary measures to avoid sunburns, ten to 15 minutes of UV exposure will help meet your daily vitamin D needs. Fair-skinned people can sustain sun-related skin damage in as little as five minutes, so vitamin D is no excuse to skimp on protection.

Skin tone is also a factor in how our bodies produce and use vitamin D. Higher-melanin skin blocks more UV rays, limiting vitamin D production. Some experts think this puts darker-skinned athletes at higher risk of a deficiency, but it’s still unclear what this means for bone health. “Some of the athletes with the strongest bones I have ever tested are darker skinned [and have] low vitamin D,” Close says. “It may be incorrect to have a blanket target concentration for all people.” So, while there’s a correlation between vitamin D and bone health and between dark skin and vitamin D absorption, the connection between dark skin and poor bone health is a leap that still isn’t backed by robust research.

Vitamin D and Performance

A number of studies in recent years have investigated a new possible function for vitamin D: boosting athletic performance. Preliminary research shows that supplementing with the vitamin could improve muscle strength, power, and recovery time. In a 2014 study, soccer players took a hefty dose of 5,000 IU per day for eight weeks. These supplements were linked to faster sprints and higher jumps. In another study of 14 rowers, a daily 6,000 IU regimen seemed to boost athletes’ maximum oxygen uptake, which is a measure of the body’s ability to use oxygen and thus generate energy.

The problem with these conclusions, aside from the small sample size in many of the studies, is that it’s still unclear whether the performance-enhancing benefits are related to remedying an existing vitamin D deficiency or increasing the nutrient to a greater, more optimal level. In other words, is it simply that the athletes in those studies were deficient? Or is there a performance-enhancing benefit of taking vitamin D even if you’re not deficient?

“In some cases, we are running before we have walked,” Close says. “In sports now, most athletes are taking vitamin D, and we have not seen a revolution in race times and injury rates.”

All the experts interviewed for this story agreed that performance-enhancing benefits of large doses, while intriguing, are still unclear.

Should You Supplement?

Getting enough vitamin D starts with a well-balanced, healthy diet, Dahlquist says. Still, it can take a lot of vitamin-rich foods to hit your daily needs, especially if you’re unable to get much sunlight.

According to Dahlquist, given the potentially high rate of deficiency, some supplementation doesn’t hurt. He recommends 1,000 to 2,000 IUs of the supplement (in the form of vitamin D3) per day, particularly in winter. This higher dose reflects the fact that athletes likely need more, since intense exercise burns through nutrients fast. Close advises against supplementing with more than 4,000 IU per day, however; beyond that amount, he found that the body stalls its use of the nutrient. In rare cases, regular supplementation of more than 4,000 IU a day can lead to vitamin D toxicity and a subsequent buildup of calcium in the bloodstream, called hypercalcemia. Symptoms include nausea, vomiting, and frequent urination.

Shane J. Nho, an orthopedic surgeon and sports medicine specialist, adds that he advises female athletes to take vitamin D and calcium to prevent osteoporosis later in life. “[The bones are] almost like a bank account,” he says. “Basically, we need to save enough so that in the future, as your bones become more brittle, you’ll have enough stored calcium and calcium uptake to prevent fractures.”

If you’re still concerned about your levels, get a blood test. The test isn’t perfect, but it’s cheap and easy, requiring just a small sample of blood from your fingertip, and can offer some valuable insights, Close says. If you choose this route, keep in mind that your results can vary with the seasons.

Overall, while the performance-enhancing benefits of vitamin D aren’t definitive, having at least adequate levels of the nutrient is important for overall health. Close and Nho say that, especially for competitive athletes, it’s important to watch for and correct deficiencies. And, Dahlquist argues, maintaining your health by supplementing can in turn help you maximize performance.

Staff Picks: Our Favorite Sports Bras

Support your girls with some of our staff favorites

Every woman has a strong opinion about her bra—likely because she’s gone through years of testing bad ones to find one that actually fits well. We polled the women in the Outside office to see which bras have landed permanent spots in their wardrobes. 

Patagonia Barely ($50)

(Patagonia)

This Patagonia Barely bra is my favorite. The fabric is really light and doesn’t pinch or grab anywhere. It also dries quickly after sweaty hikes, etc. And the pads are removable, so you can put them in and take them out depending on how much coverage you need.

—Mary Turner, deputy editor

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Prana Itzel ($60)

(Prana)

I love how longline bras free up my lats for vinyasana, but compression models tend to make my lower ribs feel corseted. The Itzel supports with molded cups, and the nonaggressive band never constricts my breathing.

—Aleta Burchyski, associate managing editor

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Lululemon Free To Be Serene ($52)

(Lululemon)

I love my Lululemon Free To Be Serene bra. I’m a sucker for aesthetics, and this bra is super flattering and just trendy enough to make me want to leave my tank top at home. It offers a little more coverage up front than other strappy sports bras, so I don’t have to wonder if I’m popping out during down dog. I’m small-chested, so I really can’t speak to support (my other favorite sports bra is ten years old and from the Old Navy juniors’ section). That said, I’ve been happy climbing, running, biking, and doing yoga in this bra.

—Abigail Barronian, assistant editor

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Target Women’s Padded ($20)

(Target)

It might not be my all-time favorite bra but I just got this one from Target. What makes it so great: it’s cute, it’s comfortable, the padding comes out, it’s soft, and it looks like higher-end models but doesn’t cost a lot.

—Katie Cruickshank, digital marketing manager

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Smartwool PhD Seamless Strappy ($50)

(Smartwool)

I’ve set up my tent in the “no padding is the right amount of padding” camp and I’m not leaving anytime soon. For everyday use—from the climbing gym to the office—this bra has become a staple in my wardrobe. The 30 percent wool blend has just enough of the magic fiber to allow me to wear it for weeks on end without stink or itching. 

—Emily Reed, assistant editor

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Lululemon Flow Y Bra IV ($48)

(Lululemon)

In recent years, I have finally accepted that I don’t really need a full-on bra bra with cups and padding and wires and thick straps. Instead, I’ve found freedom in wearing the best bra for my body type, a supportive but not constrictive bralette-style sports bra. My favorite for the past year and a half has been this simple model from Lululemon. As I wrote last year, the best sports bras are the ones you forget you’re wearing, and if you happen to be a member of the itty-bitty committee, the Flow Y will be your girls’ best friend. 

—Jenny Earnest, social media manager

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Brooks UpRise Crossback ($30)

(Brooks Running)

Three words: Brooks UpRise Crossback. I still have PTSD from an icy mogul run with the wrong bra a few years ago, but the UpRise has changed everything. The girls stay firmly planted during any high-impact activity, most notably running and skiing.

—Madeline Kelty, deputy photo editor

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These Are the Best Backcountry Snacks from Trader Joe’s

Okay, we’ll admit it. Our office is, like, five minutes from a TJ’s.

High-performance fuel doesn’t have to come at any great cost. Trader Joe’s is a treasure trove of adventure-ready snacks, especially those that aren’t heavily processed. We polled the Outside staff to find out which affordable goodies they bring deep into the backcountry.

Norwegian Crispbread

(Emily Reed)

This gluten-free Norwegian crispbread is my new Trader Joe’s fave. It’s packed with good fiber (like sunflower, sesame, and flax seeds and oat flakes) and tastes substantial, almost like a piece of toast. You can smear it with hummus or goat cheese or just eat them plain.

—Mary Turner, deputy editor

Dried Fruit

(Emily Reed)

Mandarins

I would like to say that Trader Joe’s Soft and Juicy Mandarins are full of nutrients that fuel me all day. But mostly I’m drawn to them because dried oranges sound like an abomination yet are really the most delicious things I’ve ever stuffed into my pocket for a day of hiking or skiing. They maintain a refreshing element that’s usually sucked right out of things like raisins and dried apricots, so they’re great for hot days or dehydrated days on the ski hill when you forgot to pack water.

—Erin Berger, associate editor

(Emily Reed)

Pears

I dry my own fruit at home, but when I run out, I turn to TJ’s. The pears are my favorite. Eat a dried pear and you’ll realize why pear juice is used as a sweetener. They’re a great physical and mental pick-me-up when I’m hiking or trail running. The hiking partners I share them with love them as well. Chopped up, dried pears make an amazing addition to my homemade breakfast granola.

—Kevin Meyers, HR manager

(Emily Reed)

Chili-Spiced Mangoes

This winter, TJ’s chile-spiced mango was a staple in my pack. These dried mango slices are sweet and spicy and offer plenty of fast-burning carbs for long tours and hot laps. Plus, they’re good for sharing, which means they help me make friends on the ski lift and in the lodge.

—Abbie Barronian, assistant editor

Cold Brew

(Emily Reed)

This cold brew is like a little can of rocket fuel. It’s strong enough to take me all the way to the summit and light enough that I can pack it for overnighters—saving me from the campfire coffee I’ve yet to perfect.

—Kelsey Lindsey, assistant editor

Smoked Trout

(Emily Reed)

TJ’s farm-raised smoked trout in a tin is the best and doesn’t weigh much. I’ll throw it on crackers or add it to whatever backpacking meal I’m creating for extra flavor.

—Josh Drinkard, IT manager

Pretzels

(Emily Reed)

Peanut Butter

Trader Joe’s peanut butter–filled pretzels are a staple in my crag pack. They’re salty and offer fast energy, and the protein from the peanut butter helps kick-start recovery for sore muscles after a long day of climbing. At least that’s what I tell myself while I’m munching them by the fistful in the car on the way home.

—Ariella Gintzler, assistant editor

(Emily Reed)

Yogurt

I am all about Trader Joe’s pretzel products, from peanut-filled to yogurt-covered pretzels. The salty, the sweet, and the crunch are just what I want during a snack break on a backpacking trip or when my stomach grumbles after an afternoon tour.

—Luke Whelan, associate editor

Dolmas

(Emily Reed)

There’s nothing better than cracking open one of these tins of dolmas and diving into a sea of oil to fish out a grape leaf–wrapped delicacy. They travel great in a backpack for summit munching, but they’re equally tasty at camp when your late-night munchies hit. Be careful when disposing of the oil, though—I’ve ruined a shirt or two in the process.

—Emily Reed, assistant editor

Peruvian Inca Corn

(Emily Reed)

Few salty snacks are as ruggedly durable as the humble Inca corn, and it’s easier on the teeth than regular corn nuts.

—Aleta Burchyski, associate managing editor

Road Biking Gear Recommended by the Pros

Expert Essentials

Road Biking Gear Recommended by the Pros

From shorts to shoes, nine gear recs from people who know what they’re talking about

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Oct 24, 2018


Oct 24, 2018

When you buy something using the retail links in our stories, we earn an affiliate commission that helps pay for our work. Read more about Outside’s affiliate policy.

From shorts to shoes, nine gear recs from people who know what they’re talking about

Road cycling can seem like a difficult sport to pick up, requiring loads of expensive equipment even before your first jaunt. But you don’t need to spend a fortune to get out on the road. We’ve rounded up some affordable recommendations from five top cyclists.

Cannondale CAAD12 105 ($1,575) and Xpedo Thrust NXL Pedals ($79)

(Courtesy Cannondale and Xpedo)

Cory Williams, Cat. 1 Racer, Elevate-KHS Pro Cycling Team

A road bike can be more expensive than a new car, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find a quality bike for a reasonable price. Cory Williams, a Belizean-American tearing up the criterium racing scene, recommends the CAAD12 105. This bike features the same aluminum alloy frame found on Cannondale’s $5,000-plus racing model but keeps the price down with its low-cost components. “Cannondale makes great bikes that are proven on the road,” Williams says. “This one is a good place to start and will get you on track to becoming a cyclist.” According to Williams, the Shimano 105 drivetrain, Cannondale Si crank, and Fulcrum rims are all excellent for new riders.

For pedals, Williams uses the Thrust NXL from his sponsor Xpedo. “I love these pedals,” he says. “Great quality and affordable.” For newer riders, these are also easy to clip in and out of, providing a little extra confidence when rolling up to traffic lights.

Bike Pedals


Roka SR-1 Custom Sunglasses ($155)

(Courtesy Roka)

Stefanie Sydlik, Cat. 1 Racer, Swisse Femme Equipe Domestic Elite Team

Stefanie Sydlik understands the importance of good eye protection. “Sunglasses do more than make you look cool,” she says. “When you’re flying around, so is the dirt off the road, and it can easily get into your eyes and cause damage.” These sunglasses are designed specifically for road cyclists and fit well with a helmet, cling to your face, and provide wraparound eye coverage. The lenses are interchangeable, and Roka offers customizable frames and nine options for different light conditions, one of Sydlik’s favorite features.

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Assos UMA GT Half Shorts ($129) and Chamois Butt’r for Her ($18 for 8-Ounce Tube)

(Courtesy Assos and Chamois Butt’r)

Ayesha McGowan, Cat. 2 Racer, Founder of A Quick Brown Fox

“Booty comfort is essential,” Ayesha McGowan says. A good pair of bike shorts to protect your nether regions can go a long way toward making cycling more fun. McGowan, who is working to become the first African-American female pro cyclist, recommends the women’s-specific UMA GT Half Shorts from her sponsor Assos. These stretchy, high-wicking shorts are padded with eight millimeters of memory foam for lasting comfort on short or long rides.

Sometimes even the best bike shorts are still not enough to prevent chafing. To stave off rashes or soothe already irritated skin, McGowan uses Chamois Butt’r for Her. This nongreasy skin lubricant made from natural ingredients such as aloe vera, green tea leaf extract, tea tree oil, shea butter, and lavender oil, was developed specifically for women, but it works for men as well.

Half Shorts Chamois Butt'r


Velocio Men’s Signature Bib Short ($229) and Outvi Possm Medium ($39)

(Courtesy Velocio and Outvi)

Ted King, Cycling Ambassador

Former Tour de France rider Ted King also considers bike shorts to be the most important piece of cycling equipment. These men’s-specific bibs are made from premium Italian Lycra that provides tight compression, breathability, and a second-skin fit. While there are cheaper shorts available, King, a Velocio ambassador, says it’s worth spending a little extra for a good fit. “These are the most comfortable bibs on the market,” he says. “The materials are silky-soft throughout, and the chamois is located in just the right spot—a vastly overlooked piece of the puzzle.”

When King goes out for rides, he carries a spare tube, tire levels, a multitool, CO2 bottle, and an inflator in this unique carrier. While most under-seat saddle bags take the form of a zippered pouch, the Possm is a pocketed sleeve that unfurls from the bottom of your seat to display all the gear you’ll need for a quick roadside fix—no more digging for the right tool. “It’s the cleanest, sleekest, most organized seat pack on the market,” King says.

Bib Short Possm


Bont Riot+ Shoes ($169) and Kask Mojito X Helmet ($116)

(Courtesy Bont and Kask)

Matt Tanner, Founder of Rollfast Cycling

Matt Tanner, avid cyclist and founder of the Rollfast Gran Fondo, has been riding in Bont shoes for more than ten years. But the company’s carbon-fiber bike shoes aren’t just for the pros. The Riot+ is one of the first entry-level shoes that are heat moldable: Stick them in the oven, put them on, and they form to your feet, offering a custom fit without going to a shoe specialist. They also sport a BOA dial closure system with cables that wrap under the shoe. “It tightens around your whole foot, not just across the top,” Tanner says. “They’re as customizable as you can get for an off-the-shelf product, and they’re good for all types of riding.”

Keeping to the comfort theme, Tanner recommends the Mojito X helmet. His favorite feature, unique to Kask helmets, is its faux-leather chin strap, which is much softer than the nylon strap typically found on other brands. It also has an easy-to-use dial adjustment in the back to fine-tune the fit. “Kask helmets just go on and fit right,” Tanner says.

Riot+ Helmet

The FBI of the National Park Service

The 33 special agents assigned to the Investigative Services Branch handle the most complex crimes committed on NPS land. When a day hike in Rocky Mountain National Park ended in a grisly death, ISB veteran Beth Shott hit the trail, where she began unraveling a harrowing case.

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The 911 call came in at 5:55 p.m. on September 29, 2012. A woman had fallen from a ledge in Rocky Mountain National Park; she was alive but unconscious. “I need an alpine mountain rescue team immediately,” said the woman’s husband, a slight quaver in his voice.

A middle-aged couple from the Denver area, Harold and Toni Henthorn had been celebrating their anniversary with a weekend trip to Estes Park when their afternoon hike turned tragic. As Harold’s cellphone battery dwindled, the dispatcher coached him through CPR protocol. Harold was calling from a remote location on the park’s Deer Mountain, about 2.5 miles from the trailhead and at the base of a roughly 150-foot cliff.

While he waited for first responders to reach him in the backcountry, Harold built a small fire and began texting family friends, according to The Black Widower, a 2017 book about the incident: Urgent…Toni is injured…in estes park…Fall from rock. Critical…requested flight for life. Emt rangers on way. At 6:25 p.m., he sent an update: Pulse 60, Resp 5. One hour later: Can’t find pulse.

It was close to 8 p.m. and dark by the time park ranger and EMT Mark Faherty neared the couple’s location, according to court documents. He picked his way over boulders and downed pines until he finally saw Harold feebly attempting chest compressions on his wife. When Faherty examined Toni, her pupils were fixed and dilated, and she had no pulse. Faherty convinced Harold to hike out with him that night, promising that the other rangers who had by this point arrived at the scene would stay with Toni’s body until daylight, when it could be safely removed. It took the two men—the grieving husband and the ranger—a little over two hours to make their way back to the trailhead.

At first, the accident seemed tragic in a routine way; many people fall to their deaths in national parks every year. But over the next few days, as Faherty dug deeper into the case, several things struck him as strange. For instance, the timeline Harold gave didn’t line up with the evidence. And other details seemed off, too, like how Harold insisted he’d given his wife CPR, but Faherty recalled that her lipstick had been unsmudged when he arrived on scene. Faherty asked Harold about his previous marriage. His first wife had died in an accident, Harold said. He was reluctant to talk about it.

Around the same time, Rocky Mountain National Park and other law enforcement agencies started getting letters and phone calls about Toni’s death. Some were anonymous, others came from people who identified themselves, but all made pretty much the same point: there was something suspicious about Toni’s death. Harold’s first wife had also died in an incident in a remote area, to which he’d been the only witness, some writers pointed out. “Sadly, there are many similarities to these two accidents,” one unsigned note read, according to the 2017 book The Accidents. Thanks to generous insurance policies, Harold had been awarded more than half a million dollars after his first wife’s death. Toni was even more heavily insured. In Harold’s car, which had been impounded right after the accident, an investigator found a park map with the Deer Mountain trail highlighted and an X marking the spot where Toni fell.

The case had just gotten a lot more complicated. This was a suspicious death in the backcountry. Any day now, the area would get its first major snowfall, rendering the possible crime scene inaccessible for months. So Faherty called in the Investigative Services Branch (ISB).


The elite special agents assigned to the ISB—the National Park Service’s homegrown equivalent to the FBI—are charged with investigating the most complex crimes committed on the more than 85 million acres of national parks, monuments, historical sites, and preserves administered by the National Park Service, from Alaska’s Noatak National Preserve to Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. They have solved homicides, tracked serial rapists hiding in the backcountry, averted kidnappings, and interdicted thousands of pounds of drugs. They’ve busted a reality TV host who poached a grizzly bear and infiltrated theft rings trafficking in looted Native American artifacts. But the ISB remains relatively unknown to the general public and even to fellow law enforcement. Local cops and FBI agents are sometimes baffled when Yosemite-based ISB Special Agent Kristy McGee presents her badge in the course of an investigation. “They’ll say something like, ‘What do you guys investigate? Littering?’” she told me recently.  

There’s a pervasive idea that crime doesn’t happen in our national parks, that these bucolic monuments to nature inspire visitors to be more noble, law-abiding versions of themselves. But parks are filled with people, and people commit crimes. Millions of visitors pass through national parks every year (Yosemite alone saw over 4 million visits last year), and despite the trill of birds and the majesty of the redwoods, they misbehave in ways that would be familiar to any big-city detective: they drive drunk, they rape, and they assault. “People who abuse their kids at home come to the park and they abuse their kids here,” McGee says.      

The baroque, headache-inducing way jurisdiction functions in the United States means that, generally speaking, when crimes are committed on Park Service land, the county sheriff or local cops may not be in charge; the park service would be. There are more than a thousand park rangers with law enforcement training who handle most of the day-to-day trouble, but when a case gets serious, the ISB steps in. Sometimes their work is akin to that of the FBI: investigating crimes committed by some of the millions of park visitors. In other cases, the work is more like that of a small-town sheriff’s department: tips whispered at the grocery store, agents arresting people whose kids attend the same day care as theirs. “Yosemite is a small town,” ISB agent Steve Kim, who’s based in the California park, told me. “Which means it’s a minefield. And it helps knowing where the mines are.”

ISB agents face other challenges non-park cops don’t. While an FBI investigation can draw from a force of about 35,000 special agents, intelligence analysts, IT experts, and forensic technicians, there are precisely 33 ISB agents covering the entire United States. While frontcountry criminals usually have the courtesy to break the law indoors, the ISB’s crime scenes may be at the bottom of a steep cliff or in the middle of a rushing river. The perennial underfunding of the Park Service means that while FBI agents dress in sharp suits and travel to crime scenes in huge vans stuffed with high-tech equipment, ISB agents often have to lug their not-quite-state-of-the-art gadgetry through the woods on their backs—sometimes at night, in the rain.

But while the scrappy nature of the ISB is one of its major challenges, it is also, its agents insist, an advantage. “We have the best job, because we get to put all the pieces together,” McGee says. “If you’re working for the FBI, you might have a piece of the puzzle, but someone else might go do the interview, and someone else might do some other part [of the case]. That’s more efficient—you can get things done faster that way—but we just don’t have those resources. You go over the initial report. You’re involved with the evidence. You’re involved with each step of the investigation.”


As suspicion mounted around Harold Henthorn, the ISB’s regional office in Colorado took charge of the investigation. There are so few ISB agents covering so much ground that most of them work solo. In this case, the ISB “office of one” assigned to Rocky Mountain National Park was Beth Shott, a 20-year Park Service veteran with a graying ponytail, freckled arms, and a reassuring air of competence. Shott grew up in Long Island, went to art school, and got a job in advertising. When she became extremely stressed while working on a Teddy Grahams commercial, she decided it was time to make some drastic changes to her life. Shott bought a truck, moved out west, and eventually began picking up seasonal Park Service work. “Every six months it was a new park, a new adventure,” she said. Shott quickly realized that the best way to guarantee that she got to work in the backcountry was to take a law enforcement job, which meant getting certified at the federal law enforcement training facility in Georgia. “I asked myself, can I wear a bulletproof vest? Can I shoot someone if I need to? And the answer was yes.”

During her career as a law enforcement ranger, Shott discovered that she had a particular aptitude for investigations and applied for a job with the ISB. That’s how, more than 20 years after that Teddy Grahams commercial, she found herself retracing a dead woman’s steps along the Deer Mountain trail.

Harold had told Faherty that he and Toni had planned to hike to Bear Lake, a popular half-mile loop with a gentle grade. It was the couple’s 12th anniversary, and they were staying at the posh Stanley Hotel—the place that inspired Stephen King to write The Shining. But Bear Lake had been too crowded, Harold claimed, so they made a last-minute decision to hike Deer Mountain instead. This struck Shott as odd. Deer Mountain was a very different trail, a 6-mile out-and-back hike with more than 1,000 feet of elevation gain. As Shott would learn later, Toni had bad knees and wasn’t particularly outdoorsy; friends described her as more of a walker than a hiker.

The couple then made another strange, spontaneous decision. According to Harold, when the trail plateaued after a mile and a half, he and Toni veered into the woods in search of privacy for, “romantic time,” as prosecutors would later call it. A few days after Harold told this to Faherty, Shott thrashed her way through the underbrush, following their path as best she could. Clearly, this was not some unmarked but common alternative route; it was studded with stumpy pine trees, and the terrain made for hard going. Shott tried to imagine herself in Toni’s place: a woman in her fifties, married for more than a decade, suddenly so overcome by lust that she absolutely needed “romantic time” on this extremely uncomfortable ground. Shott hadn’t gone far before the trees closed in behind her and she could no longer see the trail.

Next, Shott scrambled up a slope to the rocky shelf where Harold claimed he and Toni had stopped for lunch. The trailless exploration was difficult and Shott moved gingerly over lichen-spotted boulders. Harold had said that, after lunch, Toni spied a flock of wild turkeys she wanted to photograph. Toni had allegedly picked her way down a channel full of loose rocks, so Shott did, too.

At the bottom of the slope, Shott found a small, flat stone outcropping with enough room for one person to stand comfortably. Like a crow’s nest, she later thought. In front of her, the sheer cliff face dropped about 150 feet, but the platform felt safe enough, with a short rocky ledge serving as a kind of barrier from the sheer drop. Harold’s story was that Toni had been posing for a picture, then toppled backward to her death. Peering over the edge where Toni fell, Shott felt dizzy. She’d later find the dead woman’s blood still visible on the ground below. According to the coroner, Toni had sustained a number of injuries serious enough to kill. “She fell so hard she punctured her breast implant,” Shott told me later. “She lacerated her liver. She was basically scalped. She had a cervical fracture that could have affected her breathing. Her head wound was massive. Do you know what exsanguinated means? She bled out. The coroner, when he did the autopsy, had a hard time getting a blood sample off her because she had no blood in her system.” The coroner estimated that Toni had died between 20 minutes and one hour after impact.

When Shott first heard Harold’s version of how his wife died, she was skeptical but thought that, despite the incongruities of his story, there was a slight chance things had happened the way he claimed. But after she followed in the couple’s footsteps, she made up her mind. The terrain was so unforgiving, the couple’s decisions so inexplicable, the story so improbable, that she was convinced: Toni didn’t fall. She was pushed. Shott just had to figure out how to prove it.


The ISB’s roots can be traced back to a hippie riot on Memorial Day weekend 1970 at Stoneman Meadow in Yosemite National Park. At the time, rangers were thought of as generalists, equally comfortable with enforcing rules, building trails, and leading nature walks. But when the hippies congregated in the meadow—getting naked, playing tag, doing drugs, camping without permits—the rangers realized they were in over their heads. On July 4, park officials put up signs announcing the closure of the meadow at 7 p.m. “due to extreme litter and noise.” But the crowds didn’t disperse.

It was two months to the day after the shootings at Kent State, and tensions in the park—and the nation—were running high. At the designated time, the rangers, who had little experience or training in dealing with crowds, charged in on horseback. They tackled protesters and beat them with batons; the crowd flung glass bottles back at them. A cloud of tear gas settled over the meadow. Eventually, the rangers retreated and called for backup from neighboring police departments. It was a high-profile debacle, and it left Park Service higher-ups convinced that the agency needed a more professional law enforcement presence.

Over subsequent decades, the NPS enlisted a growing number of armed law enforcement rangers charged with keeping order in the parks. But these rangers were largely the equivalent of city beat cops; they didn’t have the time or training to solve complicated cases. In 1976, Yosemite and Olympic National Park hired the Park Service’s first criminal investigation specialists. As crime rates on public land continued to rise, other parks began to hire their own special agents who worked cases, but only cases that took place in those specific parks. In 2003, the NPS decided to put all these new special agents under one roof, enabling them to travel across the country and assist with cases wherever they were needed. And so the ISB was born.

Today, the 33 special agents travel to any National Park Service area that requests their help; I witnessed one very patient ISB agent coach a rookie ranger through the procedure for handling a stolen wallet. Depending on the complexity of the case, ISB agents may partner with other federal agents—often from the FBI—or with other law enforcement rangers. Because Park Service land is federal, prosecutions that result from ISB investigations are mostly handled through the U.S. Attorney’s office.

Last August, I traveled to Yosemite National Park to meet up with Shott’s colleague, ISB special agent Jeff Sullivan, an affable, self-deprecating, 35-year veteran of the Park Service. Sullivan has played a role in investigating nearly every major crime and mystery that’s taken place in Yosemite over the past quarter-century, which made him the ideal guide for a tour of the shadowy side of America’s fifth most visited national park. See that grassy expanse, dotted with wildflowers? That’s where park visitors discovered the skull of a still-unidentified young woman, a murder claimed by the prolific serial killer Henry Lee Lucas. That lush meadow? Once, someone found a dead bear there, its head neatly severed from its body. (The ISB sent the bear’s remains to the park’s wildlife lab in Oregon, hoping to discover clues about who’d poached it. The lab called back a few weeks later: The poacher you’re looking for is a mountain lion.)

Sullivan and I drove up to Glacier Point, where he told me about the rockslide in 1996 that killed one and injured at least 11. The dust cloud it kicked up was so massive it blocked out the sun; until Sullivan arrived on the scene, he’d been sure there would be dozens of casualties. Next to us, a bored teenager flung a water bottle into the abyss. Watching it fall seemed to cause Sullivan physical pain. He leaned in close and flashed his badge at the kid. “Don’t throw water bottles,” he said quietly.

Yosemite’s ISB headquarters are located in an imposing stone building nicknamed the Fort. It’s one of the few ISB offices that houses multiple agents, who work in a cluttered office down the hall from the park’s 20-bed jail. The walls are decorated with taxidermied deer heads, evidence tags dangling from their antlers; they’re souvenirs from a decade-old poaching case.

ISB agents are a strange breed. They require a high tolerance for time alone in the backcountry—but because solving crimes typically comes down to getting information from people, they also need social skills. “I look for people who can talk to anybody,” Sullivan told me. Each of the half-dozen agents in the office was drawn to the job for different reasons. Kristy McGee, a petite blonde wearing cowboy boots, specialized in violent crime. “I had a very chaotic childhood. I was exposed to a lot of adult-natured things—drugs, abuse,” she told me. “I found a place where I can use that to relate to people.”

Steve Kim, who has salt-and-pepper hair and a degree in wildlife ecology, told me about how he had spent the summer of 1995 living the life of a dirtbag climber, when Yosemite put out a call asking climbers to help with a death investigation. While rappelling off the east ledges of El Capitan, looking for clues, Kim discovered that ISB work suited him—“It’s probably my obsessive-compulsive tendencies”—and never looked back.

Cullen Tucker, the office’s youngest agent at age 30, was born into the business; his dad is a former deputy chief ranger at Yosemite, and his mom was one of the park’s first female investigators. Thirty years ago, the case of the dead girl in the meadow (the one whose murder was claimed by Henry Lee Lucas) had been assigned to Cullen’s mom, Kim Tucker. With very little to go on, she hadn’t been able to identify the body. “I’ve never given up thinking about it,” she told me. Sullivan recently reassigned the cold case to her son.

Over the years, Sullivan has gone undercover as a sheep hunter to infiltrate a smuggling ring that was digging up Native American burial sites. He’s done backcountry stakeouts, waiting for the marijuana planters who hide their crops among the lush growth of Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. He’s hopped on a horse and spent a week looking for poachers in the farther reaches of Yosemite. He’s interviewed Yosemite serial killer Cary Stayner and mentored young special agents navigating their way through their first thorny criminal case. He’s clearly a man who loves his job. But Sullivan freely admits that being a special agent in the Park Service can have its downsides. The work of an ISB agent is often solitary; there’s a lot of paperwork and plenty of time spent steeped in humanity’s ugliness. An ISB agent died by suicide in 2010. “It threw us all for a loop,” Sullivan said. “We worry about that a lot. It’s a stressful job.”


The winter of 2012 descended on the Rockies a few weeks after Shott’s first hike up the Deer Mountain trail. Until the spring thaw made the putative crime scene accessible again, she had to work the case’s indoor angles. In April 2014, after working with a handful of other partners, she teamed up with Jonny Grusing, a lanky FBI agent. Together, they made a classic odd-couple team. “I’m from New York. He’s from Texas,” Shott told me when I met up with the two of them last year. “I curse; he doesn’t. I drink; he doesn’t.”

“I drink!” Grusing protested. “Sometimes I have a glass of wine after work!”

Together, they interviewed people who knew the Henthorns. From the outside, the relationship seemed almost flawless. Both Harold and Toni were well-off professionals—he was an entrepreneur who raised money for churches and charities; she was an ophthalmologist from an oil-rich family. They met on a Christian dating site in 1999. At the time, Toni was in her late thirties and eager to have a child. In Harold, she believed she’d met a hardworking man who shared her faith and her desire for a family. They married quickly and had a daughter in 2005. Friends and members of the family, many of them also devout Christians, told Shott that Harold was a devoted churchgoing man.

But when Shott pulled Harold’s tax records, she discovered that he hadn’t had a job or any steady source of income for well over a decade. She couldn’t find a website for his so-called business, or any clients, or any evidence that he’d ever done any consulting work at all. His career was apparently a fabrication. So where was he going, then, when he went on business trips? Shott got a warrant for records from Harold’s cellular provider and Grusing found that his phone regularly pinged a cell tower a few miles down the road from his house. “We took a map—this is just good old-fashioned police work—and we’re like, well, what’s there?” Shott told me. They zeroed in on a shopping center called Aspen Grove. Several people had already told Shott and Grusing that Harold loved Panera, so the sandwich chain was one of their first stops when they visited the mall. Sure enough, the restaurant’s former manager recognized a photograph of Harold right away. He’d eaten there often and usually stayed until closing, typing away on his laptop. She told the agents that he was such a difficult customer that she made sure to always take his order herself. “The other Panera people were scared of him,” Grusing told me. “He didn’t feel like he had to order. He would just show up and say, ‘I’m here,’ and they would run and find Kristine.”

The fake job was the first sign that Harold’s life wasn’t as idyllic as it seemed. Another one was the insurance money. Harold had claimed that both he and Toni had $1 million life insurance policies, with any proceeds earmarked for a trust in their daughter’s name. But when Shott sent a warrant to the insurance companies, she discovered that Harold had taken out two additional $1.5 million life insurance policies on Toni, listing himself as the beneficiary or trust administrator, without her knowledge. According to the paperwork, each was supposed to replace a previous policy—insurers won’t generally allow multiple policies on one person’s life because, as an expert said in Harold’s eventual trial, people with a lot of insurance tend to die—but that original policy had never been canceled. All told, Harold had $4.5 million in life insurance policies on his wife. But that wasn’t the only insurance surprise. Shott discovered that Harold had also taken out a secret $450,000 policy on his former sister-in-law—the ex-wife of his first wife’s brother—with himself as the beneficiary.

As the investigation progressed, Harold seemed to the investigators to grow more agitated. “He’s nothing more than a Barney Fife. He probably puts out fires and writes parking tickets,” he complained, according to The Accidents. But as the investigation uncovered more about Harold’s deceptions, some friends who had initially supported him slowly began to open up to Shott. They described a deeply controlling relationship—Toni, they alleged, couldn’t talk to her parents on the phone unless Harold was also on the line. They shared stories that struck them as sinister in hindsight and that they later testified to in court—such as how, a few months before Toni’s death, the couple had been working on their cabin in Grand Lake when Harold seemed to drop a huge beam on Toni, resulting in a traumatic back injury. If I hadn’t bent down after I walked outside, the beam would have killed me, Toni had told her mother at the time.

And then there was the story of Lynn Rishell, Harold’s first wife. After receiving the anonymous notes, Shott requested the case file from the Douglas County Sheriff’s Office. She learned that in 1995, Rishell had been helping Harold change a tire on a rural stretch of road when the car slipped off the jack and crushed her. She died later in the hospital. Harold was the only witness. He received more than $600,000 in life insurance, some of it taken out just a few months before. The county sheriff ruled Rishell’s death accidental, and her family had remained close with Harold. But after Toni’s death, the sheriff reopened the investigation. “The baffling circumstances surrounding Toni’s death gave us a strong sense of déjà vu,” Rishell’s siblings said in a statement. “As the investigation into Toni’s death progressed, it became clear that Harold Henthorn was not the man we thought we knew, and that he had in fact been lying to us for many years.”

But the evidence against Harold was still almost entirely circumstantial, which Shott knew would make for a challenging trial. So, in the fall of 2014, once the scene was clear of deep snow, the FBI sent evidence response and special project teams to help Shott document the area for the investigation and for what they hoped would be the eventual trial. They loaded a pack of llamas with several hundred pounds of gear—water, hammocks, and the agency’s expensive laser camera—and trekked up Deer Mountain to set up camp near the crime scene.

“I think there were more FBI agents up here than there needed to be, just because they all wanted to come camp,” Shott told me. Some, she said, had never spent the night outside before. (“How do we eat?” Shott recalls one of them asking.) During the day, they used the laser camera to create a 3D model of the scene. But the computerized recreation looked like an image from a video game; it didn’t have any of the rugged drama of the actual location. Shott worried that a jury wouldn’t understand just how unlikely Harold Henthorn’s story was.

In November 2014, after a two-year investigation that was still ongoing, Henthorn was indicted on first-degree murder charges. He was taken into custody, and his daughter was sent to live with longtime family friends.

Shott began to prepare for what she knew would be a high-profile trial. “This is the kind of case you wake up in the middle of the night obsessing about. It’s all-consuming,” she told me. “How do we prove it? And how do we boil it down to a three-week trial?” She consulted with a forensic anthropologist to see if there was any way to determine from Toni’s injuries whether she’d fallen or been pushed. What if they tossed a dead pig off the cliff so they could study its injuries? (“A pig we didn’t like,” Grusing joked. “Not a nice pig.”) But the anthropologist didn’t think it would be helpful. Instead, Shott hiked the Deer Mountain trail over and over again—with her FBI partners, with the federal prosecutors assigned to the case, on her own. She took three trips using GoPros to gain new perspectives. She got a special permit for an operator to fly a drone in the park to further document the site. On one visit, the winds were so strong that she and another park ranger with her had to turn back for fear that they’d get blown off the ledge. She couldn’t shake the gnawing worry that she’d missed something, some crucial clue, some path through the woods that the defense would present at trial, blindsiding her. Overall, Shott made at least 15 trips over three years, picking her way up and down the scree slopes, trying to imagine what Toni had been thinking and feeling that day. She never once made it to the summit.


Harold Henthorn went on trial for Toni’s murder in September 2015 at the federal courthouse in downtown Denver. There was still no physical evidence that could establish that Toni was pushed, so the prosecution’s case hinged on proving to the jury that Harold was a man with a secret life, who was financially dependent on the wife he’d been lying to for years.

Shott took the stand toward the end of the trial. She’d testified a half-dozen times before, but this was her first murder trial, and it felt different, heavier. The jury had already heard most of the state’s case against Harold by this point. Shott laid out various pieces of the puzzle: her assessment of the scene, the time stamps on the digital photographs Harold took, and the text messages he sent. The jury was allowed to pose questions, and they learned that another place Harold claimed to have had “romantic time” was on the rocky crow’s nest. One jury member wanted clarification: Really? There? Yes, Shott said.

On September 21, the verdict came back: guilty of first-degree murder. As Harold was led out of the courtroom, Lynn Rishell’s brother, Eric, called after him, “Goodbye, Harold!”

The following year, then–Attorney General Loretta Lynch presented Shott and the other key players in the case with a Distinguished Service Award, the second-highest honor given by the Justice Department for employee performance. “Due to their dedication, painstaking work and powerful trial presentation, the recipients did what many thought was impossible by obtaining a conviction in this difficult and wholly circumstantial case,” the citation noted.

By the time the award was presented, Shott was back to her regular ISB work, sifting through hard drives and recovering deleted files. One child pornography case that took place in Grand Canyon National Park was particularly soul-demolishing; something in her gave way and it became clear that she could not look at one more image of a child being violated. In January 2017, she left the ISB for a new job as deputy chief of the National Park Service’s Office of Professional Responsibility.

In August 2017, though, Shott agreed to return to her old stomping grounds to hike the Deer Mountain trail with me. FBI agent Grusing came along, too, and so did two of the assistant U.S. attorneys who prosecuted the case. It was something of a valedictory hike; on July 26, a federal appeals court affirmed Harold’s conviction. Later, in 2018, the U.S. Supreme Court would decline to hear Harold’s appeal for a new trial, meaning that, barring some extraordinary circumstance, he’ll be in federal prison for the rest of his life.

We were all breathing hard by the time we turned off the main trail and headed into the woods. We picked our way through the scrub, passing the flat spot where the FBI agents had camped out, and then the lunch spot, where the views Toni and Harold had enjoyed were spectacular. Grusing played us all a voicemail he’d received the day Harold Henthorn was found guilty, left by then–FBI Director James Comey: “Hey, Jonathan, this is Director Comey calling…I wanted to thank you for an extraordinary piece of work, so extraordinary it makes me proud to be working at the FBI, because we’re doing that kind of quality work.”

“Oh my God, that’s so cool,” Shott said. “I thought you were bullshitting. That was really Comey.”

Then we scrambled down the slope, and I found myself in the narrow space where Toni Henthorn had stood five years earlier. “So this is the fall spot,” Shott said briskly. “Well, she falls into a tree, and there’s blood and hair in the tree, and the branches are broken. Be really careful here,” she warned me. I’ve never been particularly afraid of heights, but I could bring myself to peek over the edge only briefly; I couldn’t stop imagining what it might’ve felt like when Toni toppled over the edge. It made my head spin.

It was a relief when we reversed course and began to make our way back to the main trail. Shott started telling me about how, on some of her trips out to the site, she’d think about what she might have asked Toni: You’re a smart, beautiful, accomplished woman, she’d imagine herself saying, and this man was such a liar, such a bully. You must have seen that. Why didn’t you leave? She began answering her own questions—they had a daughter; Toni already had one failed marriage; Harold was supremely manipulative—but then she stopped herself. Too much speculation about things you’ll never know can drive you crazy, as any ISB agent could probably tell you. But as we picked our way among the fallen trees, away from the forlorn spot where a man had shoved his wife off a cliff, I understood why someone like Shott might keep asking. When your job takes you deep into the woods, of course you’re always looking for a path that might lead you out.