The Race Car Driver Who Powered a Bike Speed Record

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In September, cyclist Denise Mueller-Korenek and professional race car driver Shea Holbrook arrived at the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah to break the world record for bicycle land speed. While Mueller-Korenek now officially holds the world record of 183.91 miles per hour, she repeatedly attributes its success to her team, particularly the connection she has with her driver, Shea Holbrook. This is Holbrook’s account of the day.


A few times a year, dozens of motorsport enthusiasts of all different persuasions show up to the Bonneville Salt Flats to see how fast they can drive. You can count on anything with a motor to show up—two wheels, four wheels—going speeds from 100 to 500 miles per hour and everything in between.

Today, Denise and I stick out like a sore thumb. First of all, rather than two or four wheels, we have six: I’m in a refurbished 23-year-old dragster, and she’s on a custom carbon-fiber bike built for 100-plus mile per hour speeds. Second of all, we’re women. There aren’t many women in motorsports, let alone two as a team. Most important, we’re here to set an all-time speed world record.

Using a refurbished dragster from 1995 (the same vehicle that captained the last record of the same vintage, held by Fred Rompelberg), I will create a slipstream within which Denise can cycle behind me. She’ll start connected to the inside of a cage behind my vehicle. Once we’ve reached a speed high enough for her custom gears, she’ll detach and bike under her own power, surfing my draft. The record speed will be recorded as average speed from mile four to five. It goes without saying that cycling at more than 100 miles per hour is dangerous, but Denise has little more than a leather suit and helmet to protect her should a human mistake or the forces of nature and physics take her down. Additionally, we must average more than 167 miles per hour in the final mile to break the record.

But before the start, I almost walk away.

Two years ago, Denise and I set the women’s land speed record of 147 miles per hour, here at the same venue. When Denise decided to pursue the record, she wanted a female driver to captain her draft vehicle. The pool wasn’t very deep, but when we met, it felt fated that we work on this project together. When we executed our first few “rebel runs”—unsanctioned blasts across the salt—we connected seamlessly through the ride. While former record holders used radios to talk to each other, we used cameras so I could read her physical cues without her needing to speak. With this technology, I can tell when she’s feeling the draft, if she’s experiencing turbulence, has good energy, or can push harder. I’m doing all this while also keeping us on a straight course, monitoring my speed, and calculating risk. In 2016, we went into the experience completely blind and were shocked by how good we were. After we set the women’s record, a few vehicle mechanical mishaps and bad weather kept us from being able to attempt the overall record of 167 miles per hour. We had left speed on the salt, and there’s nothing more agonizing than that. We knew we’d be coming back.

This time around, almost everything feels different. When you already hold a record, you don’t have the luxury of naivety. We’ve already been here, we’ve already succeeded and failed, and we’ve become more intimate with the risk we’re taking. Since 2016, I got married, bought a house, and have a dog. Every day that I drive, I have a greater sense of what I could lose. All that, plus the knowledge that a miniscule mistake on the course could kill Denise—history-making, exuberant mother Denise. I feel a sense of protectiveness that I don’t have the chance to express. I’m too busy defending myself in the face of the mounting pressure.

Everything about this attempt feels rushed. In just three months, the dragster from Rompelberg’s record has been mostly refurbished for the feat. It took several last-minute part searches and a breakdown just to get the dragster here, and when I slip into the car, many of the most important safety measures for both Denise and me don’t appear to have been set up yet. Unlike 2016, there will be no rebel runs this year. We’ll have no chances to work out the kinks. Instead, we will take just two runs on day one. The tension builds as members of the crew yell at volunteers and check in with me to make sure I know how to drive this thing. Yes, I do understand the risk of all that’s involved here. It’s been taunting me for weeks. This isn’t some cavalier attempt at raising the bar. It’s about a vision of putting two women into the record books of human achievement.

The Bonneville Salt Flats are a blinding place. The barren white landscape reflects off itself to scream at your retinas from all directions. I would describe it as Area 51, but it’s more galactic than that. Covered in safety and sun protective gear, people here look like astronauts walking on the moon. Excited by the prospect of speed, they’re practically levitating. And the noise. Motors rev from dawn until dusk as hundreds of vehicles line up to race. It doesn’t matter what category or field you are. Motorcycles, race cars, two women trying to set a bicycling record—you all get in the same line. Racer after racer speeds down the five-mile stretch, releasing blasts of sound with each countdown.

But if you’re us, you wait an hour to take a not-quite-good-enough run and then get stalled at the second start. Anyone who has ever stood at a start line knows the mix of emotions that comes with the countdown clock. Time suspends itself there, seconds feel like minutes, and you become aware of your every breath, every movement in anticipation of the start. After our first run, and the jumble thereafter, it took us several hours to get turned around and back into line. When we finally make it to the line, people start gathering to watch us go. They’ve heard of the woman on the bike trying for a record, and they won’t miss it. We roll up, time starts to slow, and my heart rate begins to rise—and then we’re informed that the timing system is broken.

We wait. The sun continues to beat down. By midafternoon, nervous mumbling fills the crowd. The longer we sit on the line, the more anxious Denise becomes. I feel her anticipation; I see it in her posture. At this point, the heat penetrates her protective suit, so she sits down and gets fanned to stay comfortable. I stay in the car. As the minutes tick by, my frustration grows. I wonder if this was some sign that we aren’t supposed to be here. Just moments before we go, I know we’re going to get the record. I know we’ll smash it. Despite all the mechanics and shouting and waiting, I just know. I realize this is bigger than me. My team is counting on me.

When we get the green light, we fire up the engine and wait for Denise to tether to my rear fairing. The noise returns as the engine, the wind, and the rattling 23-year-old metal body of the dragster rumble against each other. The sound is as deafening as the sun is blinding, and I can see the energy in the crowd rise as I watch Denise and wait for her signal that she is attached and ready to go. I get the signal. My world goes silent.

I pull her off the line faster than ever before. As long as she’s connected to me, her speed and safety are 100 percent in my hands, and we are not going to lose this record because of me. I don’t know if I actually hear it, but I feel her breathing, and I feel my eyes dilating, focusing on her body language and the path in front of me. We’re here alone, on a strip of salt with no vehicle within a half-mile on either side of us. Finally, after so many hours of navigating the whims of other people, it’s just Denise, the salt, and me. At this point, there is no room for error. Knowing that we will be recorded from miles four to five, it’s my job to control our speed, monitor course conditions, and let her know when we’re moving fast enough for her to disconnect and self-propel. At a mile and half, I give her the signal, and she disconnects. Denise is now under her own power, having left my nest. I have to pave the path for us to succeed and hope to hell that she doesn’t waver even a millimeter in the wrong direction and hit the turbulence of my slipstream.

By mile four, we’re going over 170 miles per hour and pushing safety regulations of my vehicle. But Denise can go faster—I can see it in her stance—so I’m willing to take the heat and push the dragster. In a real way, we’re on another rebel run, and I’m all that stands between Denise and history. I’ve never driven like this, with someone’s life threading behind me. The impact of the speed grows exponentially with each acceleration. Denise stays tucked in her small safe space while fanatically pedaling to match her acceleration to mine. She stays in the safety of my slipstream, and I manage to push the dragster beyond its ability. Before we know it, we’re riding a death wave, pushing our luck and skill without crossing the line.

After the fifth mile and about 90 seconds, we’re officially done, but now the real exposure begins. They always say the most dangerous part of mountain climbing is the descent. Just like Denise needed me to bring her up to speed, I have to now slow her back down. She pulls gently back into my draft cage and reconnects, and then I have about a mile to slow down to under 100 miles per hour before it’s safe for her to drift out into the dry, salty air and slow to a stop. For the first time, I can see chase vehicles come into view behind us. People all across the salt are celebrating, and we’re still out here trying not to die.

After she releases, I have a mile by myself to slow to a stop. For the first time in two years, I can breathe. I have a moment alone where I don’t know whether to cry or pray. I pray that was the run. I pray that we broke the record. Because I can’t go again. We left everything on the salt today and I have nothing more to give.

A couple weeks after the record, I call Denise and ask her if she thinks we could have done better. Without hesitating, she says no. Maybe she’s protecting me the way that I strive to protect her, but she doesn’t acknowledge a desire to return. I feel grateful for that space, for the chance to finally celebrate what we accomplished.

—As told to Annie Pokorny.

The Case for Riding Ultra Early in the Morning

Cycling in the afternoon is totally gauche

One night in college, I was up late with bleary eyes cramming for an exam when my roommate took mercy on my condition and slipped me a bit of invaluable assistance. No, it wasn’t an Adderal. It was the Russian proverb he’d grown up with:

“The morning is wiser than the evening.”

This resonated with me immediately. Not only did it sound more sagacious and Yoda-like than the trite American “Sleep on it,” but it was also much more appealing than the old “Early to bed, early to rise” saw, as it didn’t cite going to bed early as a precondition. So I closed the books and turned in for the night, and while no doubt I did just as poorly on the exam as I would have otherwise, I at least awoke feeling much better about both it and life in general.

While “morning person” might conjure up the image of someone you want to punch in the nose, there’s no denying the importance of being conscious when the day begins. If you can acquire the ability to function at that time so much the better. Better still is to actually go out into the world in the morning and accomplish something, and of course for the cyclist, there is no greater accomplishment than the successful completion of a ride. While my Russian roommate taught me the importance of not toiling away late at night with a barely functioning brain like a schmuck, it was the road racing I started after college that taught me morning is the very best time for cycling: physically, spiritually, and practically.  

By necessity, bike races in New York City start early. Really early. This is because they happen in the parks, and it’s crucial that the speeding Lycra-clad swarms be finished before the runners, dog walkers, and other normal early risers arrive to begin their recreational shift. The advantage of this is that you’ve got like 50 fast miles in your legs before most people have started brewing their coffee. The disadvantage is that in order to do it you’ve got to peel your face off the pillow while it’s still what most reasonable people would consider yesterday.

Waking up ultra-early to ride isn’t easy at first. The idea of getting on your bike isn’t immediately appealing in the small hours, nor for that matter are most foods. Then there’s the elimination phase of the digestion process, which if you’ve been on a typical schedule up until now doesn’t kick in until you’re pinned up and on the start line. Basically it’s like catching an early morning flight, right down to the panic you experience when you need to use the bathroom just as you’re preparing for takeoff.

Once you acclimate however, your body and mind both adjust and you realize it’s kind of an exciting time to be awake. In Ingmar Bergman’s Hour of the Wolf, Max von Sydow describes the pre-dawn hours thusly:

The hour of the wolf is the hour between night and dawn. It is the hour when most people die, when sleep is the deepest, when nightmares feel most real. It is the hour when the demons are most powerful. The hour of the wolf is also the hour when most children are born.

Sure. Also everyone else in the house is asleep and you get to watch whatever you want on TV while you wait for your coffee to kick in. Then when you hit the streets it’s just you and the last of the late-night revelers stumbling home, and you get to feel superior to them because even though you’ll all probably wind up puking in a few hours at least your nausea will be exercise-induced and therefore “healthy.”

Then there are the practical reasons for riding early. The roads are empty and you’re free from impatient drivers. The sun is not anywhere near its maximum melanoma-inducing strength. On weekdays you get that ride in before work; on weekends you get the workout compulsion out of your system which means you can spend the rest of the day doing normal things with friends, family and loved ones who may have priorities other than cycling. Or, if you’ve managed to effectively ride all those people out of your life due to your obsession with bikes, you can always take a nap and then go out for another bike ride.

At the same time of course, there are downsides to riding early. For example, what few drivers you do encounter are likely intoxicated. You also run the danger of becoming unbearably smug, since after awhile you start to view cycling vigorously in the afternoon the way Italians do ordering a cappuccino after dinner. (Putting in hard efforts on the bike after solar noon is in bad taste; afternoons are best spent riding casually in regular clothes, ideally in pursuit of food and adult beverages.) Then there’s the very real risk of running up a serious sleep deficit, which can result in crankiness and falling alseep in inappropriate places such as offices and weddings, thereby undermining the normal life you’re trying to cultivate by riding early.

Those caveats aside, waking up early and heading out on the bike is almost always better than trying to cram in that lunch ride or knock out a few miles before sunset. Working the bike into a chaotic day can be stressful, whereas a morning ride can impose a sense of order and calm upon the rest of your day. (Of course, so too can riding to and from work, but that’s another subject.) You’ll sleep better too. And at its best an early morning ride can have a sort of mystical quality to it, like the earth is a giant set of rollers and your pedal strokes are raising the sun.  

Plus, it’s a great way to get caught up on your TV watching, and isn’t that what’s really important?

Illustration by Taj Mihelich

Costco Is a Performance Athlete’s Dream

It’s the one-stop shop for healthy fuel. Here’s a grocery list, plus meal ideas for how to best use the store’s cheap, high-quality ingredients.

Costco. A place where you can buy things like gasoline, durable goods, and—most important—healthy calories, all in bulk yet without sacrificing quality. That last item is exactly what outdoor athletes, who burn through energy at rapid-fire pace, need to fuel all those runs, rides, and ascents. The best part? Everything is outrageously cheap, debunking the idea that you have to spend a pretty penny to eat well or boost your performance. Rather than shop at pricey specialty markets or natural food stores, make this warehouse your go-to grocery and you’ll save time, energy, and money.

“I actually give my clients a Costco shopping list,” says Rachele Beck, a Wasatch Front–based nutritionist who works with clients ranging from tech execs to professional outdoor athletes. “There are so many healthy, economical options. It just makes it easy and affordable for people to eat healthy.”

For first-timers, a trip to a Costco warehouse can be utterly overwhelming. The aisles aren’t marked—a major departure from the organized, easy-to-follow Whole Foods model. While it is at first frustrating, you’ll soon realize that this chaos affords you the opportunity to explore and discover nutritional gems that you either haven’t heard of or wouldn’t buy in your regular market due to price. Costco’s shelves hold the best Saigon cinnamon you’ll ever taste (11 ounces, $2.50), mass quantities of organic chia seeds (two pounds, $7.50), and gigantic jugs of pure, organic maple syrup (one liter, $11)—all for a fraction of what you’d pay at a typical grocery store. Consider the syrup, which the average organic grocer sells for anywhere from $0.75 to $1.25 an ounce. Costco’s? Less than $0.33 an ounce.

You’ll leave the warehouse feeling like you get more than you paid for. Costco is bullish on organics, and the majority of its in-house brands, labeled Kirkland, are produced by some of the country’s most well-known food makers. For example, Starbucks roasts Kirkland coffee (two pounds, $10), Bumble Bee produces the albacore tuna (eight cans, $13), and Adams reportedly does Costco’s organic peanut butter (56 ounces, $10).

The place will save you time in two ways. First, when you buy in bulk, you come home with more, meaning you make fewer trips to the store. Second, Costco usually features just one or two versions of a given food. For example, instead of offering you, say, 11 different types of almond milks, eggs, or energy bars, the buyers pick what they consider to be one to three of the best takes on the product and offer only those at a competitive price. This also helps cut down on decision fatigue. (I repeatedly reached out to Costco for comment regarding how the team selects the items that make it to store shelves. They declined to divulge.)

A standard annual Costco membership runs $60. If you do most of your shopping there, you’ll make that up in no time. In fact, Beck’s husband is a certified financial planner and and swears by the value of Costco. “For example, even though you have to buy a massive three-pound bag of organic spinach,” Beck says, “it’s only $5. That’s way more economical than buying the one-pound bag for $4 at the regular grocery store.” Single and worried you won’t eat bulk items in time? Freeze them.

Another benefit: “Costco’s food is usually much fresher than the grocery store’s,” Beck says. “They have so much traffic that they have to turn their food supply over much quicker.”

If you’re a new (or soon to be) Costco membership holder, Beck’s expansive food list below will help you get your bearings. It focuses primarily on single-ingredient foods, which a recent study found can help you lose weight no matter how you approach your diet.

Here are the list’s highlights—don’t worry, you don’t have to buy them all at once—and a sample meal plan showing how you could put them together:

Fruits and Vegetables

  • Organic spinach
  • Baby kale
  • Baby carrots
  • Frozen mango chunks
  • Organic lemons
  • Sugar snap peas
  • Frozen berry mix
  • Romaine lettuce
  • Cauliflower rice
  • Yams
  • Avocados
  • Dried figs
  • Bananas
  • Broccoli

Meats

  • Ground turkey
  • Wild-caught frozen salmon burgers
  • Boneless skinless frozen chicken breast
  • Rotisserie chicken

Dairy

  • Almond or coconut milk—unsweetened
  • Kirkland 0% fat plain Greek yogurt

Carbs

  • Quinoa
  • Brown rice noodle ramen
  • Organic raw-corn tortillas
  • Lentils

Snacks, etc.

  • Raw almonds
  • Hummus
  • RX Bars
  • Nuttzo nut butter
  • Harvest Stone organic quinoa crackers
  • Kirkland protein bar—great protein and a treat
  • Hemp seeds
  • Organic protein powder

Breakfast

Blend the following:

  • Spinach (frozen)
  • Bananas (frozen)
  • One scoop protein powder
  • Unsweetened almond milk
  • Kirkland 0% Fat Greek Yogurt
  • Kirkland frozen berry mix
  • Raw almonds
  • Hemp seeds

Lunch

Make a salad that includes the following:

  • Baby kale or spinach
  • Carrots
  • Snap peas
  • Broccoli
  • Chopped wild-caught salmon burger
  • Lentils

Dinner

Make a one-pan meal featuring:

  • Quinoa, riced cauliflower, or sautéed yams
  • Chicken breast or rotisserie chicken
  • As many vegetables on the list as you like

Snacks

  • Dried figs and protein shake
  • Nut butter with a banana
  • RX or protein bar
  • Crackers and hummus and/or rotisserie chicken

5 Pro Athletes on the Gear They Use for Everything

Expert Essentials

5 Pro Athletes on the Gear They Use for Everything

The do-it-all staples—from $11 to $515—that these multisport pro athletes can’t do without

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May 17, 2018


May 17, 2018

When you buy something using the retail links in our stories, we earn an affiliate commission that helps pay for our work. Read more about Outside’s affiliate policy.

The do-it-all staples—from $11 to $515—that these multisport pro athletes can’t do without

We all have our niche, a sport we specialize in. And every sport has its own gear and tools, which add up quickly when it comes to cost and storage. But plenty of equipment can play double duty, reducing the clutter and the strain on our wallets. To come up with the following list of super-versatile gear, we asked multisport athletes to share some of their favorite do-it-all products.


The North Face HyperAir Gore-Tex Trail Jacket ($250)

(Courtesy The North Face)

Mike Foote, Ultrarunner

Training-appropriate rain jackets shouldn’t feel like sweaty garbage bags. Mike Foote, a North Face–sponsored ultrarunner from Montana, uses this sleek, versatile jacket year-round. “It’s my wind shell in the winter because it protects and breathes well, and my rain protection in spring rainstorms because it’s incredibly waterproof,” Foote says. This lightweight jacket packs down to next to nothing, so Foote always keeps it in his backpack, whether he’s bike commuting or running through the mountains. “It performs so well on so many fronts while sacrificing so little in function.”

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Lululemon Swiftly Tech Long-Sleeve Crew ($78)

(Courtesy Lululemon)

Brittany Phelan, Ski Cross and Mountain Bike Racer

Even when the snow melts, Canadian ski-cross silver medalist Brittany Phelan doesn’t stop competing. She swaps skis for a mountain bike and hits the enduro circuit. One part of her kit that crosses over is Lululemon’s Swiftly Tech Long-Sleeve Crew. “It’s great for riding—it looks really good, and it’s warm and breathable. For skiing, too, it fits really nicely under our suits,” Phelan says. “It’s basically what I live in. I think I have six or seven of those shirts. It’s probably the piece of clothing that I wear most in my life.”

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Garmin Fenix 5 ($518)

(Courtesy Garmin)

Brody Leven, Runner, Climber, Skier

At any given time, Brody Leven is usually running, climbing, or skiing—with the occasional bikepacking adventure thrown in. He often combines two or three sports in a day. The one tool he uses for everything, every day, is his Garmin Fenix 5 watch. “It’s the greatest training tool. I don’t just wake up and say, ‘I can’t wait to go on a 20-mile run!’ I’m a human, and it’s hard to rally myself to do stuff. Paying attention to the numbers—the vert, the miles—motivates me. This watch is like a coach telling me to go do something,” says Leven, who is a Garmin ambassador. The Fenix’s long-lasting battery and interactive maps feature, which Leven uses to cache locations for gear stashes or campsites deep in the wilderness, make it the perfect adventure watch. Plus, Leven says it’s the most user-friendly smartwatch he’s ever come across.

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Resistance Bands ($11)

(Courtesy Fit Simplify)

Amie Engerbretson, Skier

If the snow is falling, Amie Engerbretson is either already in the mountains or on her way. The professional skier and barre instructor calls Truckee, California, home in the off-season, but come winter, she turns nomadic. Resistance bands guarantee Engerbretson can sneak in a training session wherever adventure calls her. She uses small circular resistance bands in various tensions to intensify squats, practice micromovements for arm strength, or supplement her stretching. “I call it a gym in my back pocket. I can do enough exercises with just a resistance band to get a full workout,” Engerbretson says.

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Prana Revere Long-Sleeve T-Shirt ($49)

(Prana)

Anna Ehrgott, Surfer

Just because a shirt was built for working out doesn’t mean you can’t wear it to the beach, or the grocery store, or anywhere else, for that matter. Pro surfer Anna Ehrgott, a Californian through and through and Prana ambassador, wears this sweat-wicking, supersoft long-sleeve tee anywhere her travels take her. “I’m one of those people who wears workout gear all day—it’s just so comfortable! And this is one of those pieces I find myself living in,” Ehrgott says.

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The Misery of Company

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Only one other person showed up at the designated meeting spot, though at least she brought trail mix. Everybody else wussed out. All the shared excitement from the previous night—about our big plan to hike through a Maryland state park that contained what we’d been told were the actual woods from The Blair Witch Project—had vanished by the time our alarms went off early that morning.

I was disappointed but not truly mad that there weren’t more of us. It was 2001, we were students at the University of Delaware, and we’d decided to go along on a bus ride with a campus club that was doing a day trip to Maryland. But we were all talk sometimes, buzzed and holding our red Solo cups, filled to the brim with Natty Ice while we made grandiose plans—usually without a shred of coherent thought as to what shape we might be in the next day.

I only got mad later. Not just at the people I was hanging around with back then for being kind of obnoxious, but also at myself for continuing to travel with them.

Because I partially blame myself for the mistakenly high expectations I had about the concept of group travel in those days. In theory, it seemed so glamorous and grown-up. When I was a teenager in New Jersey, desperate to be old enough to experience road trips and adult vacations, I should have paid more attention to how every movie or TV show I loved depicted these activities as featuring a fair amount of drama. Then I might have anticipated that my longed-for cabin-in-the-woods weekends—all hot tubs, sex, and beer—would end up feeling more like a slasher film where everyone gets murdered by a chainsaw-wielding psychopath.


“Where were you?” The accusatory statement hit me the moment I came through the door of a rented condo in the Catskills one winter.

“I’m sorry, did you think I’d gone missing?”

The question was rhetorical, because we both knew she hadn’t been concerned for my safety. “She” being the self-proclaimed organizer of that particular trip, and God forbid someone step out on her pristine and careful itinerary. Everyone had been napping after a late night, and I’d gone on a walk through the grounds of the resort we were in. I’d discovered that the spa had a last-minute opening for a massage, and I was on vacation, after all. (I thought.)

But apparently my absence prevented everyone from doing anything, because we weren’t all together to make a group decision, and Organizer Lady was pissed. Which made no sense, given that the group’s decisions were always just a disguised version of her telling us what she wanted to do, and no one argued.

In general, something always fell apart when my crew formulated any kind of travel plans. New Orleans, Disney World, Las Vegas, upstate New York, the Jersey Shore—the location didn’t matter. There would be someone who didn’t like heights (me), someone who didn’t want to do much walking on a tour (not me), someone who was late, making us miss the shuttle to this thing or that (definitely not me).

Back then, there was a core—sort of. We were all women, college friends in our twenties, getting together in groups that usually started with two people having an idea for a trip, then inviting friends who also invited friends, so that on any given trip you’d probably know half the people fairly well and the other half in name only. It was an understandable mismatching of personalities based on the shared experiences of living in dorms together and thinking that would transfer over to being together anywhere. Because if you can share a communal shower, you can handle anything, right? (Wrong.)

During that weekend of skiing in the Catskills, a sullen “we all go or we don’t go” attitude marred every single thing we attempted to do, including breakfast, snow tubing, and a Golden Oldies night at a lodge that had a very strong Dirty Dancing vibe.

If someone didn’t want to go, what was the point of guilting them into it by announcing that unless they went, no one would? If someone didn’t feel up to or couldn’t handle a walking tour, why all the huffing and muttering? Just let them lie by the pool and read a book or blow their money at a slot machine if that’s their preference when you’re in Las Vegas! (No, I’m not still upset about that one.)


“What the hell do you mean no one is coming to pick me up?!” I shrieked in the quiet NJTransit train car, earning several disapproving looks and a hushed “Language, please!” from a mom with her two young kids.

I was on my way to a beach house that we’d all chipped in for ahead of time. The two organizers had said the money would go toward a big dinner and enough booze for both days. I couldn’t get off early from work on that particular Friday, so I missed the various carpools leaving New York and was relegated to taking the slow, bumpy, often-delayed train into New Jersey.

Earlier, when I explained my predicament about work, I was promised that there were at least two nondrinkers with cars who could come pick me up at the train station, which was a couple miles from the beach house. But then, when I was one stop away, my phone rang. It was someone from the house calling to say, oops, sorry, everybody is drunk, so no one can come get you after all. The cab companies I called quoted $45 to $60 to travel the two miles from the station to the house. Without any options, I grudgingly forked over the dough.

After the exorbitant cab ride, I arrived to find that the dinner and wine had already been snarfed. It was 4:30 p.m. I was sheepishly offered half a bowl of lukewarm rigatoni and a bottle of water, making me mad enough to say, prior to my first bite: “This better be the best fucking rigatoni I’ve ever eaten.”


Rigatoni Weekend is when I gave up and officially decided that my answer to group trip invitations going forward would be an across-the-board hell no. As nerve-wracking as this position was, and after all the Lifetime movies I’d seen that scarred me about traveling alone, I thought I had to bite the bullet, because no fear of mine was worse than overpriced pasta.

Going forward, I didn’t want to compromise so hard on a potential daily activity that no one ended up liking anything we chose to do. I wanted to be the travel director and itinerary planner. The one who made all the decisions without having to check with anyone else or uncomfortably stretch my budget to fit the group dynamic.

And for years, it was glorious. I rented a beachfront apartment on the Jersey Shore, all on my own. Made several trips to California, where I did portions of the coast drive, stopping whenever the hell I felt like it. Went to Indianapolis to visit all the Kurt Vonnegut tourist spots, like the nerd that I am. My biggest solo trip—a month in Iceland—was life-changing, but it was also the first time I felt a nagging sense that maybe, just maybe, I wished my friends were there with me.

Years passed, and I no longer had relationships going with the people who’d driven me crazy in the past. Now I was using WhatsApp, FaceTime, and iMessage to talk to my new friends every day from Iceland, whenever I saw some beautiful waterfall, black-sand beach, or lagoon that I knew they would love. I was saying “wish you were here” and meant it.

All my solo travel had taught me to embrace the fact that I actually was something of a control freak, and that, in the old days, I hadn’t been surrounding myself with people I could be honest with. All the exhausting round-robin conversations—with everyone casually saying, “Yeah, I’m easy, I’ll do whatever,” when the opposite was true—seemed long behind me. I’m not that easy! I’ll admit it now! It just seemed easier to tolerate the seemingly well-intentioned whims of others than to fight for what I wanted to do or spend.

Thanks to a combination of my failing to sound off and choosing ill-suited travel companions, I ended up not enjoying my trips and regretting my expenditures. I had shouted from the rooftops for a decade that group travel was terrible, but it wasn’t, necessarily. When group travel didn’t live up to what I’d hoped for, I blamed the whole institution instead of examining the various individual components. Including myself.


I know now that the right kind of group travel lets anyone involved make decisions and might include smaller groups splitting off for various activities, with some people doing solo adventures and catching up for dinner.

Or maybe not! It just takes time to find your group, and there might be different groups, depending on the kind of trip. Imagine thinking you have to do everything with the same people all the time, no matter what it is. Who knew that you could do solo travel and group travel and it could all be great? Actually, lots of people probably knew, but it blew my mind.

In May, I did my first group travel trip in years: to Miami, where we all had a wonderful time. Our beach stints were mostly together, but we ate, went shopping, looked at art, took naps, got coffee, and went for walks in various twos and threes without any set schedule or drama. When someone wanted to go back to the hotel because they were tired, they went without getting grief. If someone wanted to get up early and go do yoga on the beach, they went, while the rest of us pretended not to think about our unhealthy choices!

So, I don’t speak ill of group travel anymore. I’ve made my peace, and we’re all cool now. Which is also the reason I can confidently say that I would rather throw myself down a sewer grate and feed myself to the raccoons than go on your big group camping trip next weekend. I don’t care if there are s’mores.

RunGrl Is Making Distance Running More Diverse

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One of the most attractive aspects of running is its simplicity: you only need one good pair of shoes to get started.But for blackwomen, a lack of high-profiledistance runners who look like them can create an unseen barrier to the sport. As the saying goes, you can’t be what you can’t see. 

After meeting at a diverse coed running collective in the Washington, D.C., area, six runners—Dominique Burton, Stephani Franklin, Na’Tasha Jones, Ashlee Lawson, Jasmine Nesi,and Natalie Robinson—realized they could provide this vital support and visibility for other black female runners. “We didn’t see ourselves in the media,” Nesi says. “We didn’t see enough resources, tools, or really any community talking about distance running with challenges specific to black women. We knew there was potential to create that space, to show what was possible.” That space, founded in 2017, is calledRunGrl. 

RunGrl is a website and communityfor black female distance runners to share experiences, information, and support. The group provides running tips, a half marathon training plan, information on strength- and cross-training, and lifestyle and beauty guidance, both online and at live events.

The creators ofRunGrl felt compelled to start with one of the greatest needs in their community: opening up the dialogue around black hair. A 2013 study found that nearly 40 percent of the African American women surveyed avoided exercise due to hair-related issues, a problem the six women had witnessed in their own social circles. “I think we can all relate as black women,” Nesi says. “We’ve all been on the receiving end of trauma from being made fun of. We knew our very first initiative had to put a spotlight on [black hair] and address it head-on.”

RunGrl’s website, which launched in April, helps readers navigate these obstacles. Along with advice articles for a range of hairstyles, the site's “ambassador” profiles feature women sharing their before and after run beauty routines and favorite grooming products. Since the start of RunGrl’s #myrunninghair campaign in mid-July, the hashtag has appeared in more than 150 posts on Instagram.   

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The dialogue sparked online continued at one of RunGrl’s in-person events in D.C. in August; around 35 women gathered at the black-owned hair salon Taylor and York for a casualconversation over wine,featuringadvice from one of the salon’s lead stylists. “We had all different hair types represented: relaxed hair, natural and straightened, natural and curly locks, braids, weaves, and other protective styles. It takes a lot to maintain your hair routine and an active lifestyle, in addition to work and all the other responsibilities we have on our plate,” Nesi says. 

RunGrl is less than two years old, butits influence has grown both online and off. In July, Nesi sat on a panel—moderated by Lawson—at the Essence Festival in New Orleans about hair maintenance and staying active. It also hosted two runs at the festival, and organizers were pleasantly surprised by the turnout, given the city's hot summer weather. “That felt really good, for that to come together so quickly, with us being so new,” Nesi says. In early October, RunGrl announced its first running tour, which will include group runs in six East Coast cities through November. 

With their website and events, the founders hope to increase the number of black women distance runnersin therunning community and include black women in broader discussions about wellness and distance running. But their biggest goal is to get more black women moving for their overall health. “We know black women are especially at risk for heart disease and certain types of cancer, and for maternal-health concerns,” Nesi says.

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This means reaching more black women with the initial message: you don’t need a whole closet of gearto get moving.“We knew there was potential to create that space, to help women who had run a 5K but were scared to run a 10K, or who had run a marathon but hadn’t thought about an ultramarathon,because the people where they ran didn’t look like them. They didn’t know that was a thing that we do,” Nesi says. “We want other women of color to know that they’re not the only ones doing this, that they’re not one of the few—a whole community of people is out there.” 

So far, the founders say that they have been blown away by the response to RunGrl. “It meant a lot, especially for the women who have come out to our past events, who believe in us, who take their time and money to spend time with us and talk about these important issues. It’s opened up such a huge community that we knew was there, but we didn’t know how quickly would mobilize,” Nesi says.

The Glory of Otis, Fattest of the Fat Bears

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Our champion, Otis, is 22 years old, with blondish brown hair, a straight, narrow nose, and deep scars on his neck and above his right eye. When he’s at the top of his game, fans describe his neck as “relatively thick,” his body “walrus-shaped.”

Otis, also known by his ID number, 480, is a brown bear who lives in Alaska’s Katmai National Park. Otis is fat. So fat that he’s been king of the park’s Fat Bear Week two of the past three years. He’s become the face of a tradition that started in 2014 as a fun way to teach people about ursine health and now attracts devoted fans who’ve created a Real World–style experience out of watching the tubbiest bears on the planet.

Fat Bear Week began as Fat Bear Tuesday, when Katmai employees printed before-and-after photos of some of the park’s 2,000-plus residents as they bulked up for hibernation. They asked passersby at the visitor center to vote for the chubbiest in March Madness bracket-style matchups (Otis won). The next year, they extended the vote to a week in October and opened it to the rest of the world through social media.

Being on a peninsula of southern Alaska, the park doesn’t get many visitors—Zion National Park’s visitor count was more than 110 times Katmai’s in 2017—so Fat Bear Week helps the lower 48 really connect with the world’s largest protected population of brown bears. Really, anyone with access to that many chubby bears would’ve done the same. Fat animals hit humans at an emotional level that’s ironic considering the way we think about the fat that’s on people.

Katmai sits back, waits for the internet hordes to descend, then sneaks in a body-positive biology lesson. Watch these creatures enjoy fresh seafood until they’re full! You love it, don’t you? That’s because a fat bear is a bear that’s going to survive the winter. “It’s a celebration of their success,” says Mike Fitz, a former Katmai ranger who now works as an educator and natural history interpreter through the bear cams on Explore.org. “Especially early in the season, people can see them catching their first salmon and the look of satisfaction on their face.”

We still don’t know a lot about what happens to all that stored-up salmon while a bear hibernates. (Just try taking the vitals of a sleeping bear in the wild. Some researchers have done it, but not many.) Until recently, we didn’t know if bears’ metabolism shut down significantly enough in winter to even call it hibernation, so we stuck to terms like “winter sleep.” We do know that late in summer, brown bears put most of their energy into increasing their weight by 30 to 40 percent over a few months. Starting in October and November, around when temps drop to freezing at night, the bears den up for about six months. Their body functions reduce to a quarter of what they were, but if all goes as planned, that stored-up fat will be just enough to keep them alive during their long slumber. Still, bears are so good at packing on fat (while remaining strangely resistant to plaque buildup in the arteries) and barely moving for months (without much muscle or bone deterioration) that many researchers are interested in our ursine friends for applications in long-term space flight or medical issues like the atrophying effects of long hospital stays.

For bears, it’s simple: More fat means a better winter means (if they really fattened up) they’ll emerge from their den with a little extra pep to start mating and preparing for next winter. The circle of life. Katmai’s bears do this with aplomb, with males regularly topping out at more than 1,000 pounds, the approximate weight of a concert grand piano. “In the natural world, they’re probably gonna be among the fattest brown bears,” says Andrew LaValle, a park ranger at Katmai who’s been involved in Fat Bear Week since last year. Not to mention they’re already the second-biggest bear species, after polar bears. Male Yellowstone grizzlies have never been documented weighing over 900 pounds, and Olympic National Park’s male black bears tend to reach 600 pounds.

So, when you see a properly plumped Katmai bear, you’ll know. When most bears come out of their dens, they’re scraggly—vertebrae visible, skin hanging loose, shaggy fur. By late summer, many of the bears will have undergone such a dramatic change that they’re practically unrecognizable.

Like the rest of us, rangers have to estimate the weight of Katmai’s bears visually, since an up-close evaluation would require sedating the animal and palpating to determine relative fatness. But the eyeball test is sufficient. We want the rolls—especially rolls around the haunches, a sign of peak fatness. Much like a football player, a bear’s neck should get so large that its head starts looking disproportionately small. The belly should hang as close to the ground as possible, the fur coat should get glossy and thick enough to cover up scars, and the bear should have the lethargic and slow-moving demeanor of, well, an animal that’s about to mostly sleep for six months. When Fat Bear Week finally rolls around, the healthiest bears are cartoonishly rounded and majestic, so stuffed full that no other word fits better than “rotund.”

This year’s tournament kicked off on October 1, when Katmai released a bracket with every bear in contention—12 that have been well documented at their scraggliest and most rotund. Starting October 3, rangers will post a daily matchup of two bears, with before-and-after photos, on Facebook so followers can vote with their likes. Four of the dependably big bears get a bye week, like Otis and one of his main rivals, 747, who happens to share an ID number turned nickname with the popular Boeing airliner. “He got that number before he grew up to be as big as he is. It’s a fortuitous coincidence,” LaValle says.

The before-and-after voting is meant to reward bears that have made the most progress, but that’s just the official rule. On the internet, as in bear country, the simple fact of fatness reigns.


One of the less horrible places on the internet is Explore.org. It’s where you can watch livestreams of all kinds of animals, but most important, in summer and early fall, you can watch seven different 24/7 streams of brown bears on Katmai’s Brooks River and its aptly named Dumpling Mountain, where many bears go to hibernate. Fat Bear Week’s most hardcore fans are many of the same people who constantly populate the bear cam’s comment section (“Name that behind!”) and keep close tabs on the comings and goings of their favorite bears on Wikipedia-style fan pages. In August, it was the dedicated bear-cam watchers who alerted park officials when a man waded into the popular feeding area of Brooks Falls for a selfie—a satisfying collision of the best and worst of wildlife social media practices. Fat Bear Week is basically bear-cam fans’ election season, but less depressing. They spend all week uploading images and campaign posters to Facebook, rallying others to vote for their favorite ursine personality.

Imagine if your sweet aunt ran ESPN’s college football Facebook page, and all the commenters came from Old Friends Senior Dog Sanctuary’s page, but with the exact same disdain for discrete use of caps lock, exclamation points, and ellipses as Cher on Twitter. That’s about the vibe of Fat Bear fan culture. Their images demonstrate a rudimentary knowledge of Photoshop and their memes a rudimentary knowledge of what a meme is, but what saves them is their endearing earnestness and deep bench of blubber descriptions. “Winter Is Coming,” reads one image of Otis pasted on the iron throne. “Game of Fats: The North Remembers 480 Otis.” A typical meme employs the standard white text at the top and bottom of a bear photo but fails to execute any joke: “Vote for Me…Otis (Bear 480): I’m the Fattest Bear in the Park.”

But (you may want to sit down for this) Otis is probably not the fattest bear in Katmai. Like any true champion in an image-based competition, Otis just knows how to work the camera.

He’s often photographed at his favorite fishing spot in Brooks Falls, known to cam watchers as his Office. His technique is to sit perfectly still, head bowed like Rodin’s Thinker, occasionally lifting a salmon from the water and downing it in a few bites before releasing its carcass and gazing downward again. All the while, he’s unknowingly accentuating his fat.

Consider the classic advice for how to photograph well: Sit up straight, lift your chin, don’t get too close to the camera. Otis does the opposite, to great effect. He leans forward on his haunches, pushing the rolls up around his neck and letting the rest of his fat lump around him. On his best days he looks more Hershey’s Kiss than bear. Other bears tend to stand while catching fish, dispersing their weight for the cameras. Otis slouches chubbily.

Anthropomorphizing Otis et al. is really what Fat Bear Week is all about, because what else are you going to do with a reality show–style bear-watching experience? No other park has a Fat Bear Week, because most other parks don’t have 24/7 video surveillance of a particularly dedicated group of hunters at their favorite meal spot. “That’s kind of what makes the Brooks River area special,” LaValle says. “Bears are pretty habitual. If they receive food in a certain time of year in the same spot, they’ll often return.”

And food is plentiful. Alaska’s coastal brown bears indulge in a particularly fatty smorgasbord of sockeye salmon (up to 4,500 calories) and coho salmon (could be as much as 14,000 calories per fish). “Here these bears have it almost as good as you can imagine. They’re able to just gorge themselves,” LaValle says. They can high-grade, which means eating the fattiest parts of a fish—eggs, skin, brain—and discarding the rest. “It’s like going to a restaurant and not wanting to fill up on bread.”

So it’s not an illusion that the bears at Katmai are extra large and chilled out. At a time when warming winters are keeping some bears up far past denning time and some urban bears stay up all winter eating literal garbage, Katmai’s bears live in rare, blissful ignorance. “What we see on the cams is reflective of a healthy ecosystem at its full potential,” Fitz says. “When we protect wild lands, have areas where watersheds are clean and unaltered, manage fisheries sustainably, we see success stories. We’re not putting Band-Aids on anything here.”

This year is better than ever: Bristol Bay, located to the park’s east and a major supplier of its fish, has seen record numbers of sockeye on top of an already record-setting 2017. In August, LaValle said, some bears were already reaching “September levels” in size. So Otis has plenty of competition for this year’s Fat Bear Week, which runs October 3–9. There’s 747 as always, who is “absolutely mammoth” this year, according to LaValle. Bear 503 is a young upstart, first spotted in 2014 as an abandoned cub, who’s now approaching adulthood and considered one of Katmai’s largest bears. Two females, Grazer and 2016 champion Beadnose, were single this year and bulked up considerably with no cubs to feed. (Even in bear country, females never seem to be able to attain the desirable body type.) Bear 435, Holly, is always a force to be reckoned with despite having two cubs to care for. “Last year she had these rolls you could hide things in,” LaValle says. In a cute but somewhat awkward twist, this year her two female “chubby cubbies” are seeded as a pair in the first round. Holly gets a bye week, and, thankfully, they’re on opposite sides of the bracket and would only meet in the final.

At 22 years old, Otis is getting up there in age (even Katmai’s unhunted and generally unbothered bears tend to live only to 25), and he isn’t looking as big as he has in previous years. LaValle also notes that Otis is missing several key teeth, including one canine, which most bears rely on to tear flesh. But he’s still a top contender thanks to the cult of personality. People seem to love how little he moves (one commenter wrote an ode to his sit-and-eat style, to the tune of Otis Redding’s “Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay”). They love how mopey and antisocial he looks. Maybe they root for him because they think, “Wouldn’t it be nice if I could just mind my own business, do a little snacking, take care of myself—and someone cheered for me?”

“He’s probably the most famous bear on the internet,” Fitz says. “People can connect with his story of aging and how he’s still trying to find his way in a world that’s still very tough and competitive.”

Maybe Otis has it figured out. Maybe all we want is a few minutes to sit in a meditative state alongside our chubby hero.

One of the most popular videos of Otis on YouTube is titled “Bear 480 Otis slowly eats his fish.” It’s four minutes and 30 seconds of Otis slowly munching on a fish carcass, tearing off its red flesh in ribbons. He lifts his head while chewing with his mouth open, looking contemplatively into the distance or at a nearby bird. Satisfied, Otis stands and gives a lazy shake of his head that dries only his neck scruff, then ambles off, leaving the rest of his catch to the gulls.

The Speed Project: A Crazy, 340-Mile Desert Relay

The race, which runs from Santa Monica to Las Vegas, celebrates the amateur superstar

I’m hardly the first person to point it out, but in today’s running scene, amateur athletes are gaining visibility as ambassadors for the sport. Blame it on social media, or repeated instances of self-sabotage on the professional end of the spectrum. Either way, one could argue that many of running’s most compelling personalities are not Olympians or national record holders, but those who bust out 100-mile weeks while holding down day jobs. These civilian superstars are injecting the sport with a new energy and­—dare I say it—even a dash of cool.

This came to mind last Friday evening, when I visited a pop-up exhibition in New York’s Lower East Side neighborhood. The event was sponsored by Tracksmith and featured photographs from a company team’s recent participation in the Speed Project—an unsanctioned relay race from the Santa Monica Pier to the Vegas Strip where teams are limited to only six runners. Other than that, there aren’t too many rules. Titled “Heaven or Las Vegas,” the exhibition doubled as a launch party for a new Tracksmith apparel line, which had been wear-tested during the 340-mile journey across the California desert. Welcome to the brave new world of sportswear marketing.
 
Initially, Tracksmith had only intended to use the Speed Project as the setting for its summer catalogue shoot. But then the race ended up providing more drama than anticipated. The six Tracksmith runners—two women, four men, all of whom are sub-elite caliber athletes—found themselves in a close battle for the course record with a French team called the Sun Chasers. Adding to the intrigue was the fact that one of Tracksmith’s runners had to be taken to the E.R. with heat exhaustion, leaving them a man down for much of the race. In the end, the Sun Chasers would prevail by a razor margin of ten minutes. Nonetheless, the Speed Project experience was so riveting that Tracksmith thought it warranted its own exhibition.

“You have an affection for the people you’re photographing, but you also kind of want them to suffer—because that’s what they’re going through and you know it’s a beautiful moment,” says Emily Maye, a photographer who embedded with the Tracksmith crew for the duration of the Speed Project. Maye, who previously spent three years as a staff photographer on a professional cycling team, is a veteran at capturing such moments. Her Speed Project photos depict both the tortured euphoria of (very) long distance running, as well as the hallucinatory weirdness of an event that one Tracksmith support crew member described to me as “Burning Man for runners.”

(Emily Maye for Tracksmith)

There may have been even more weirdness than usual in 2018. Speed Project founders Nils Arend and Blue Benadum made a habit of showing up in a black limousine at random moments along the course. In one of Maye’s pictures, a runner is gritting his teeth midstride while, a few feet behind him, the limo creeps along in ominous pursuit, a ghostly white hand visible in the car’s tinted windows. In another photo, Peter Bromka, the ill-fated member of team Tracksmith who succumbed to heat exhaustion, is sitting alone, at night, on a bench outside a highway rest stop. The image has a strong Edward Hopper vibe, and reflects that familiar state of utter enervation. This, too, is the loneliness of the long-distance runner.

(Emily Maye for Tracksmith)

My favorite picture from the exhibit was taken more than 24 hours into the race, when team Tracksmith was still maintaining a narrow lead over their French pursuers. Dawn is breaking and Tracksmith runner David Kilgore is pushing the pace somewhere along Death Valley Road. Behind him looms of the vast landscape of the American West, as well as a pair of headlights on the horizon: the Sun Chasers are closing in. Kilgore’s face has the maniacal look that you’d expect on someone who has been running intermittently for over 24 hours. There also appears to be a trace of fear. For me, the picture captures the atavistic dread that’s so core to the running and racing experience. You’re in pain, and yet you continue to run because you know you’re being chased. 

(Emily Maye for Tracksmith)

I only learned about the Speed Project early last year, when I joined Arend and Benadum for a Sunday long run on their home turf in Santa Monica. At the time, I told Arend that his event sounded similar to Hood to Coast, the long-standing relay event up in Oregon. He looked at me with mild contempt and said, “Not really. This is more rebel-style.”

Indeed, the Speed Project ethos is resolutely non-professional. Given the whole running on the freeway thing, the enterprise is probably semi-legal, at best. There’s no official monetary reward for the winner. The heroes of the event are accomplished runners who can complete a marathon in two and a half hours, give or take, but who could never cut it on the world-elite stage.
 
Of course, in the age of incessant doping scandals, that elite stage has lost some of its luster. Likewise, some top professionals just fail to inspire. The competitive amateur runner, on the other hand, has the benefit of representing an ideal that is simultaneously aspirational and attainable. So much so, that even when they do something insane like run 340 miles across the desert, you see the photos and think: That could be me.

3rd Rock Makes Our Favorite Climbing Apparel

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Jessica Mor started 3rd Rock clothing in 2010 in the closet-sized living room of a Tel Aviv apartment, using a 1950s-era sewing machine. Fed up withthe waste and unsustainable practices in the fashion industry, the 28-year-old had left her job as a couture pattern cutter for catwalk designers in London the year prior. (The last straw: Someone asked her to cut an Arctic fox fur jacket.)

“I left and went to Africa to do conservation work,” Mor says. “I figured I’d go save some animals to soothe my conscience.” There, she stumbled on the world-class rock climbing in Waterfall Boven. As she learned the ropes and fell in love with this new sport, an idea formed. “I thought, ‘Hang on, I’m a pattern cutter, I love the outdoors, and I can’t find clothes that fit well when I climb,’” she says. “I decided I would make my own clothes, and I would make them ethically, something I could be proud of.”

Mor moved to Tel Aviv with her now husband and set up shop in their 5-by-6.5-foot living room. Using fabric scraps from established brands, she cut tops based on a model with arms raised overhead instead of perpendicular to the body so they wouldn’t ride upwhen the wearer reached for big moves on a route. She designed bras with no seams on the straps so they wouldn’t chafe. She made pants with subtly crescent-shaped thighs so they’d allow for movement without being baggy.

The attention to fit worked. Eight years later, 3rd Rock climbing is thriving, with a loyal consumer base and a website full of some of the most comfortable active apparel I’ve ever worn. I’ve been wearing a few 3rd Rock pieces for the past month, from post-work gym sessions to weekend bouldering trips, and even for hiking and camping. Here are my favorites.

Few bras are as simultaneously cute and functional as the Aurora3, which features a spaghetti-strap back design that widens over the shoulders and a three-piece front that offers plenty of coverage and support for climbing, yoga, or hiking. The tubular shoulder straps have no exposed seams to chafe or edges to dig in. This spells next-level comfort that lasts all day and doesn’t leave you desperate to change come evening. True to 3rd Rock’s sustainability ethos, the Aurora3 is made with a material derived primarily from recycled Italian carpets (and a bit of Lycra for stretch and compression).

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The brand claims that this top, with built-in bra, accommodates cup sizes from A to E,but I was skeptical. After testing, I have to say the Eclipse offers more support for D cups than many similar tops yet still manages an open-back strap design that feels flattering and airy. Shape is another highlight: This tank is fitted through the waist and has just enough flare at the hips to avoid riding up, so it stays put when I’m reaching for faraway holds.

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Everything about these pants is designed with movement in mind. A ribbed elasticwaistband offers stretch around the hips for increased flexibility. Coupled with a drawstring for an extra-dialed fit, the wide, stretchy waistalso extends the range of each size for those who fall between, say, small and medium. Meanwhile, side seams slightly curve to provide more room to move at the knee without necessitating a baggy cut. Perhaps most important, all of 3rd Rock’s pants come in short and regular lengths, which means petite climbers can wear them without needing to roll up the cuffs.

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Katie Lee, Our Lady of Glen Canyon

Before her death last November, Katie Lee spent half a century working to restore Glen Canyon, a lost place that was even more astounding than Grand Canyon

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Katie Lee was a notoriously blunt woman. I had been in her living room, in Jerome, Arizona, for just ten minutes last summer before we covered sex and death. I had noticed a model sitting on a shelf—a small white dory with the name Mexican Hat Expeditions painted on its side. It was a replica of the crafts on which, half a century ago, Lee first forayed through Grand Canyon and Glen Canyon, places for which, right up until she passed away in November 2017, at 98, Lee would be the fiercest of advocates and the most lyrical of chroniclers.

With Mexican Hat, Lee became only the 175th European to traverse both the upper and lower ends of Grand Canyon, and one of the first women. On later trips alongside two pioneering river runners, Frank Wright and Tad Nichols, she helped name many of the side canyons along the Glen, which was submerged beginning in 1956, when the Colorado River was dammed to create Lake Powell. In the driveway of Lee’s small blue house in Jerome was a silver Prius decorated with bumper stickers—RESTORE GLEN CANYON and THE ROAD TO HELL IS PAVED WITH REPUBLICANS—and a vanity plate seemingly calibrated to tiptoe along any censorious line drawn by the Arizona State Motor Vehicle Division. It read: DAM DAM.

It was summer 2017, and we were sipping lemonade that Lee brought out from her small kitchen, talking about those earliest expeditions. “The Grand was immense and powerful. Awe-inspiring. And loud. You went down there and you could see how the earth was put together,” she said. “But the Glen…the Glen was like floating on silk. Like being rocked in a cradle.” On one of the Glen Canyon trips, Nichols famously photographed Lee naked, her body joyfully mirroring the curves and contours of the canyon’s sandstone. She took pains to make clear, as we sipped lemonade, that no sex had been involved. “I didn’t want any,” Lee said. I said that her writing about the canyons and the San Juan River was, nevertheless, quite sexy.

“Oh, absolutely,” Lee said, then sighed. “Best lover I ever had was that river.”


I first encountered Katie Lee in a used bookstore on Royal Street in New Orleans, where the first thing she published, Ten Thousand Goddam Cattle: A History of the American Cowboy in Song, Story and Verse, leaped off the bargain shelf, demanding to be purchased on title alone. When I finally opened it, several years later, I was floored. What was this book? Memoir, elegy, folklore, ethnography, history, beat narrative? Ostensibly a rambling, cross-country search for the original source of the cowboy song “Old Dolores,” the book was all those things, written in a voice that was at once hip and authoritative, folksy, profane, mischievously joyful, and lonesome sad. I sort of fell in love.

It took Lee almost two decades to write Ten Thousand Goddam Cattle, starting in 1960, when she was already past 40. She crisscrossed America in a mid-1950s Thunderbird coupe, singing in clubs and, in between, chasing down the last survivors of a West that by then had already been romanticized longer than it existed in the first place. There was, conscious or not, an element of penance in Lee’s obsession. Her father had been a real estate developer in Tucson, building subdivisions where ranches once were. Lee grew up on the border between the Old West and the New, and her childhood familiarity with the former was inextricably tied to its disappearance.

Lee left for Hollywood in 1948, when she was approaching 30, and found small roles in TV and movies. “I was too old to be an ingenue and too young to be an older actress,” she said. Lee had more luck with a singing career. Her breakthrough was an album about psychoanalysis, Songs of Couch and Consultation. Among her admirers were Harry Belafonte, Burl Ives, and Woody Guthrie, who sent a five-page mash note. Then, during a visit back home in March 1953, she saw footage of a friend’s rafting trip down the Colorado River and through the Grand Canyon. The images hit Lee with the force of a revelation.

“I remember sitting there, stunned, through the excited babble of my guests, knowing one thing for sure—that I had to get there somehow, see and feel that place,” Lee wrote. She did get on the river, first through Grand Canyon, playing her guitar on the banks each night for paying guests, and then on runs through Glen Canyon, which became the lodestar of her remaining six decades—lover, muse, temple, and, once the canyon lay deep beneath the waters of Lake Powell, the source of lifelong rage, grief, and steely purpose.

The damming of the Colorado River at Glen Canyon—the result of a deal to preserve the more popular Dinosaur National Monument—would come to be seen as the galvanizing ecological crime of the 20th century. In songs, speeches, and stories, Lee became one of the nascent environmental movement’s fiercest voices. She was Kick-Ass Katie Lee, the Goddess of Glen Canyon, a woman who took no shit, liked saying “fuck,” and rode naked through Jerome on a bicycle, in imitation of Lady Godiva. Asked once in a National Geographic documentary if she had ever met Floyd Dominy, the architect of Glen Canyon Dam, Lee answered matter-of-factly: “No, I never met him. I would have cut off his balls if I had met him.” She wrote three books about the canyon and its environs: Sandstone Seduction, The Ghosts of Dandy Crossing, and All My Rivers Are Gone (later republished as Glen Canyon Betrayed: A Sensuous Elegy). Lee played countless songs of commemoration and longing for the place and testified, rallied, petitioned, and inspired. “I just don't understand what I've done that makes people so insistent that I've done something,” she told me, with not quite characteristic modesty. “I've just always said what I believe in, and I've said it out loud, and many, many times.” She paused before adding, “And with a lot of swear words.”


Jerome was once a copper boomtown, a spiral of steep, winding streets that clings like an Italian hill village to a rise overlooking the Verde Valley. Abandoned by the mining company in 1953, it was saved from ghosthood in the late 1960s by the arrival of hippies, back-to-the-landers, and other dropouts. Katie Lee moved there in 1971, having been chased from Aspen and then Sedona by encroaching New Agers, retirees, time-sharers, and other varieties of what she liked to call “feather-headed” folk.

She showed me around the house, built into the side of a gulch filled with piñon pines and scrub. Upstairs was the kitchen and a small, bright office cluttered with memorabilia: photos of rafting trips and concerts, a “Hayduke Lives!” patch celebrating the novel by her friend and fellow conservationist Edward Abbey, badges from a lifetime of conferences.

There was a large map of Baja California, which Lee crisscrossed by dune buggy for much of her second marriage, to a former race-car driver named Edwin Brandelius, Jr. The desert soothed his emphysema. As Lee told it, she and “Brandy” had gone to the trouble of getting married only so she could get his veteran’s pension when he died. “He said, ‘I just want to fuck the government one more time,’” she recalled.

“None of my marriages was a total waste of time; all of them taught me something,” Lee later wrote. “But Brandy was like the whipped cream on top of a hot chocolate sundae—he melted too soon.” Doctors told them they would have three years before the end; they got five.

She was done with marriage after that, but not long-term companionship. The front door opened, and a lanky, dapper man with white hair and a mustache walked in. “That’s my guy, Joey,” Lee said. The two met in Australia while Lee was backpacking around the world to celebrate her 60th birthday. The next year, Joey came to live in Jerome. “He’s pretty much deaf. Probably because he doesn’t want to hear what I tell him,” Lee said. From the ceiling in her office hung an assortment of lifelike birds—a black woodpecker; a white owl, wings outstretched; a mobile of delicate hummingbirds. Joey spent much of his time hand-carving and painting these in a workshop downstairs and leaving them for Katie as presents.

Lee was in remarkable shape for a woman approaching 100, but she was unaccustomed to any limitations, and the ones she suffered drove her crazy. She was forced to get on all fours, wincing and cursing, to descend a spiral staircase to the downstairs bedroom. Her skin was papery and quick to bleed, as a small scrape on her elbow demonstrated. Time had left some holes in her memory, though I had a suspicion that the most delightful of these—“That asshole singer, what was his name?” (She meant Frank Sinatra); “Bob…the one who couldn’t sing” (Dylan)—were evidence more of temperament than age.

She still drove, but not at night. Among the new things I learned about Lee during my visit was that she was an abominable back-seat driver. There may be an ideal speed at which to descend from Jerome to the Mexican restaurant in nearby Clarkdale for dinner; I did not manage to find it. Once we were seated, Lee ordered a single vodka and tonic and semi-surreptitiously added a second shot from a flask in her purse, as if to steel herself after the harrowing hell ride I had just put her through. After I made her talk for more than an hour, she asked, wearily, “What are you going to do with all this?” I said I needed some time to let it sink in. “Let it sink in,” Lee said, putting a hand on my arm. “But don’t let it drown.”


As I said: sex and death in the first ten minutes. There was an open book sitting on the coffee table in Lee’s dining room: How to Get the Death You Want, by John Abraham. “I haven’t read it yet, but I just know I’m going to do it my way,” she said. “There’s probably every kind of drug in the world in this town, if I need it.”

In the end, it didn’t come to that. On the night of November 1, Katie and Joey had dinner alone together. They said goodnight, she descended the spiral staircase to her bedroom, and sometime in the night she slipped quietly from life into death. Joey found her there the next morning.

Kathleen Williamson is a singer-songwriter, lawyer, and old friend of Lee’s, dating from the days when Williamson lived in the gulch in Jerome and was known as the Goat Lady, delivering milk from her herd on the back of a donkey. She arrived later that day to begin the job of sorting papers and memorabilia, most of it to be sent to the Katie Lee Collection at Northern Arizona University, and to comfort Joey. “He was distraught,” she said. “They really did love each other.” Williamson left him that night sitting in a chair by the front window of the house, reading Edward Abbey. She’d be back the next morning, Williamson told him. “Not too early,” he said.

Williamson drove into the center of Jerome to see the flag that the town had lowered to half-staff in honor of its most famous resident. Passing Lee’s house on the way back to where she was staying, Williamson glanced in the window and saw Joey still there, reading. Sometime after that, he took a .22-caliber Ruger pistol, went downstairs, lay down in Katie’s bed, and shot himself in the head.

“The first thing I remember about getting to the house the next morning was that all the windows were closed and there was an overpowering smell of skunk,” Williamson said later. “It was really bad. Thick. Just overwhelming.” The only explanation, she thought, was that a family of skunks had been under the house and, startled by the gunshot, all sprayed at the same time. A police officer who was staying at the house until a medical examiner arrived from Prescott had a different idea. She had performed the same duty the day before, watching over Katie’s body, and she said that a raven had spent the entire time hovering in tight circles over the house.

“The cop said, ‘Those must have been their totems,’” Williamson said, with a chuckle. “Only in Jerome do the cops talk like this.” She was inclined to believe it, too. “Except the cop assumed that the raven was Katie and the skunk was Joey. But I think they got crossed up, or stuck around watching over each other. Because, if you think about it, Joey was the bird man. And Katie…Katie knew how to raise a stink.


We had, of course, talked about rivers. The words had the quality of a catechism by now, her cataloging of Glen Canyon: “One-hundred and eighty-four miles of pure Eden. One hundred twenty-five side canyons, each of them different, each with its own personality.” Lee had spent, in total, a matter of weeks in Glen Canyon and the rest of nearly a century casting spells to keep the place alive. She never dreamed about it, Lee often said; to do so would mean that it had slipped into her subconscious when, to the contrary, it never left the front of her mind. “There’s always something during the day that reminds me of it. It could be a rock formation. It could be a cloud formation. Every night, when I sit down to dinner, the light that falls over the table…I’m back there.”

In recent years, parts of Glen Canyon have reemerged, the consequence of years of western drought, but Lee had no plans to revisit the area. There were times when she was almost grateful that most of it lay safely underwater. “It would be trampled to death,” Lee said. “All those miles and miles of sandstone would be covered with tire marks. Assholes running over them with bicycles and trucks. Unless you built a 20-foot wall around the place, which you couldn’t do.” She sighed. “I guess I just got lucky. I got very lucky.”

But how did Lee remain optimistic despite a lifetime of mourning, I wanted to know.

“I’m not really in mourning,” she said, leaning forward as though to share a wonderful secret. “Because I know what’s going on up there. I know what the river can do. I’ve watched it do it. Before I even knew anything about Glen Canyon, I knew it. But when you live there with the river, and you’re on it day after day after day after day, you see what it can do. It can eat through sandstone. That river is working its way around that dam. And that fucking dam can stay there forever, as a monument to human stupidity, but the river is going to go right through it.” She leaned back. “I don’t have to worry about it happening,” Lee said with a smile. “It is going to happen.”