Welcome to #BlackVanLife

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I’m slouched in the back of Paris and Lovell Lee’s live-in Nissan cargo van, which is parked behind a colorful Cuban coffee shop in L.A.’s Silver Lake neighborhood. The full-time college students are visiting from San Francisco for the weekend, and they’re stoked for the opportunity to show off their home. Paris, 24, has already unearthed an ax, inline skates, a fishing rod, and a sewing machine from its cramped quarters. Then her eyes light up. “Oh, I have to show you this,” she says, rooting around behind their bed to produce a quiver of arrows and a bow that Lovell made after watching a YouTube tutorial. I ask what inspired this PVC-meets-Robin-Hood creation. Paris slips the nock of an arrow onto the bow’s taut cord and lifts it up. She lets the tension hang for a moment, then deadpans, “Because we need protection.” After another pause and a smirking headshake from Lovell, she drops the bow and dissolves into peals of laughter. “I mean, what if we see a bear?”

The Lees grew up in vastly different parts of the country (Paris is a native Chicagoan; Lovell was born in Mobile, Alabama), met in the Navy in 2013, and later chose to begin their post-military lives together in L.A., where Paris had wanted to live since the sixth grade. 

They planned to enroll at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, where Paris wanted to study directing and screenwriting and Lovell planned to pursue fashion and design. But they also craved mobility. While lounging in their apartment complex hot tub one night before heading north, an idea struck. Lovell owned a van, initially intended to serve as a mobile IT workshop, and the two had thrown an air mattress inside for a few brief road trips in the past. What if they could live in it full time?

They weren’t looking to hop on the #vanlife bandwagon when they moved into their rig last spring; the couple simply wanted to save money and explore a different way of living. “I had no clue,” Paris says. “I thought we were going to be the first ones to ever do it.” Lovell devoured instructional videos and worked up a simple build. Due to a misunderstanding with their lease, the two rushed to vacate their apartment, filling the van with their belongings. Lovell says of their first official night as full-time nomads, “We didn’t even have room to sleep on the bed!”


If you search for #vanlife online, the results tumble forth in a somewhat predictable parade of aspirational imagery: back-door sunsets, Pendleton-wrapped couples enjoying morning coffees, gently worn prayer flags, adorable adventure pups. And white people. A lot of white people. Narrow the search to #blackvanlife, however, and the results are nearly nonexistent.The Lees are part of a growing community that’s slowly but surely changing the dynamic with a movement that’s less about hashtags and Instagram filters than it is about saying “we’re here too” and sharing the less-than-Instagrammable side of van dwelling.

Every single van-lifer I spoke with said that they knew of no such community when they started out. When she first considered moving into her SUV, New Jersey–based personal trainer and photographer Mia Sommers wanted to explore the stories of other black people who were experimenting with mobile living. “I really couldn’t find anybody,” she recalls. “And I’m like, Gosh, why are we so afraid? Where are we?”

Los Angeles musician Christopher Watson, 28, spent ten weeks this past summer traveling around the country in a refurbished RV as part of the Unknown Tour, a music and filmmaking project. Unsurprisingly, the majority of other nomads he met were white, an experience reflected in most media coverage of the trend—you didn’t even have to move past the title of the popular April New Yorker piece “#Vanlife, the Bohemian Social-Media Movement” to understand exactly who its subjects would be. To many people, however, the perfectly composed Instagram images and glamorization of mobile dwelling are to be taken with a grain of salt. (“I see a fairytale,” Lovell says.) After all, not so long ago, #vanlife was just, well, #livinginavan. Watson posits that black parents often project cautiousness to their children when it comes to pursuing lifestyles that seem to lack stability, but also points to cultural norms as enhancing the disparity. “For certain activities, it’ll be later for black people to one, be keen on it, and two, be portrayed as people who can do it or who can afford that kind of lifestyle,” he explains. “I’m not saying that white people are more adventurous, but I think that’s just the way it is at the moment.”

Crystal Vanner, a 46-year-old creative freelancer from Virginia who lives full-time in a 1996 Mercury Villager dubbed Not Your Momma’s Van, is more explicit. “You look at the news… We are not welcomed everywhere in this country,” she says. “I hear horror stories of people being harassed at rest stops or being watched, so it can be scary, especially as a single woman, let alone a single black woman.”

Vanner is relatively new to nomadic living, hitting the road full-time in August. But like Sommers (whose YouTube channel, My Life Now, has more than 3,400 subscribers), she’s also become a prolific vlogger. Vanner was initially drawn to van dwelling as a step toward living in a tiny house. “I knew that paying rent in northern Virginia was not going to allow me to save any money for a tiny house, so when YouTube recommendations popped up with van dwelling [videos], I went down that rabbit hole.” It dawned on Vanner that she could not only save money, but also travel around the country if she ditched a traditional “sticks and bricks” home and moved into the van she already owned. 

Vanner began vlogging in 2015, and she’s met several subscribers (“Vanner fanners”) throughout her travels. “A lot of them are black women and they’re like, ‘You are my role model,’ or ‘I know I can do this because I watch you do it,’ and it’s really humbling,” she says. “When I started, I didn’t see people like me, and now they have someone.”


In May, the Lees began documenting their new life, posting videos to YouTube under the name Novel Kulture. The couple are hilarious and sweet in person and on camera, but they’re also real about the messiness of van life. Their videos show not just daily vlogs (“Lovell Is Gifted an Italian Long Bow”) but explainers on the finer points of van dwelling (“How Do You Do HYGIENE in Van Life”) and dispatches from some of their rougher times on the road: they ripped out their entire original build, lost their rooftop solar panels on the highway, racked up numerous parking tickets, and even had their van towed from beneath a confusing jumble of San Francisco street signs.

An experience in rural Nevada, however, marked a particular low point. While returning from a cross-country trip, they encountered an accident scene. As they approached the area, a man who was helping direct traffic motioned for them to slow down, then hurled a heavy safety cone at their windshield, severely cracking the glass. (They posted a video showing the damage.) Lovell sought help from nearby Nevada Highway Patrol officers, but felt frustrated after the officers insisted they couldn’t intervene without video of the actual incident. “I told Lovell that I didn’t want to travel the United States any more after that happened,” recalls Paris. “I was just like, I don’t feel safe.” Lovell is pensive. “That’s not going to stop me from doing stuff, but I don’t want to be somebody’s target.” 

They’ve experienced some low points as vloggers, too. “We had to really dig” when searching for other black van-lifers, Paris says. Realizing that their own channel might serve as a homing beacon for others, the Lees included the phrase Black Van Life in their first few video titles. Despite receiving overwhelming support, they also fell victim to an assortment of negative, often overtly racist commentary. Lovell took the high road, offering patient explanations for why they included the phrase, but became exhausted and eventually removed it from every video.

Still, the Lees have mostly good things to say about their experience. They are floored by the community they’ve found, both online and in real life. Their YouTube following is small (almost 2,000 as of publication) but loyal. Still, they seem genuinely shocked that what began as a personal documentary ended up as a point of reflection and inspiration for others considering similar journeys. “We had one comment [where] a woman was like, ‘I didn’t know there were black people doing this, and I didn’t know if I would be accepted.’ And I was like, Why does she feel like she wouldn’t be accepted? It doesn’t matter—just live your life,” says Paris. “I just want to show black people, like, look—just go out and have fun.”

Other van dwellers echo the sentiment. Sommers is saving money for future travels and no longer has to deal with unpleasant neighbors or difficult landlords; instead, the world feels wide open. “I would love to see more people of color coming out of these apartments that many of us don’t own, moving into some type of mobile house, car, or SUV, and stop spending so much money for everybody else to be wealthy,” she says. Vanner hopes to extend her explorations to Canada and South America. “Freedom, that’s the main advantage,” she says. “Wherever you have an inkling to go, you just go.”

Living in their van hasn’t yet provided financial stability, but the Lees say it’s helped them in many other ways. They’ve pared their belongings to the essentials. They have the mobility and flexibility they dreamed of. They’re inspired to dig deeper into their respective passions. And without television as a distraction, they have adopted a slew of new hobbies (including archery). If living in such close quarters has done anything but strengthen their relationship, there’s no sign. “I have to remind myself of why we’re here,” Lovell says, slipping an arm around his best friend. “Because it’s all about me and her.”

Keeping the National Parks Open Is a Terrible Idea

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We all remember what happened last time the government shut down. It was 2013 and then-President Barack Obama had recently won reelection. A group of Tea Party conservatives led by Texas Senator Ted Cruz had refused to fund the government unless Obamacare was repealed. So over the next 16 days, Republicans took most of the heat for the 800,000 furloughed staff and the shuttering of agencies like FEMA, the FDA, and, most critically, the country’s national parks.

More than 400 parks closed. Campers were shooed from campsites. Mule trips to the Grand Canyon were canceled. Old Faithful was still faithful, there just wasn’t anyone to see it. The most troubling picture for Republicans, however, were the WWII veterans who’d flown all the way from Mississippi to visit memorials on Washington D.C.’s National Mall. They had made the once-in-a-lifetime trip to visit monuments dedicated to heroes like them, but when they arrived, they were met with barricades and signs reading: “Because of government SHUTDOWN all National Parks are CLOSED.”

This time, Republicans are trying to avoid that mess. Congress still has until the end of Friday to fund the government, but Republicans, who the majority of people blame, again, for Congress’s inability to keep the lights on, are trying to temper the backlash by keeping the national parks open. Secretary of the Interior Ryan Zinke is reportedly working on a plan to do so, despite the fact that nearly all his staff will be furloughed. There’s no list yet of what parks or monuments would remain open this time around, but Department of the Interior spokeswoman Heather Swift has made sure to say the memorial along the National Mall would be open. Regarding the other parks and public lands, Swift said in a statement that the government “will still allow limited access wherever possible,” but “services that require staffing and maintenance such as campgrounds, full service restrooms, and concessions will not be operating.” 

The idea is completely about saving political face. And in theory, it’s a good one. The reality, though, could pose a risk to both the parks themselves and their visitors, former park leaders say. At best, it’s a logistical nightmare.

Of the nearly 25,000 park staff, only about 3,000 would come to work, mostly law enforcement, emergency responders, and some of those in leadership positions in D.C. and regional offices. Missing would be nearly all park rangers, maintenance workers, and educational guides. The visitor centers would be closed, as would full-service restrooms. It’s hard to keep people or the places safe with that few people. “It’s naive for folks to believe that we can protect these assets and do what is required by law with just law-enforcement staff. It’s not realistic,” former-Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell told the Atlantic. 

Then there’s the fact that people are simply confused about what Zinke’s plan is. The DOI does have a shutdown contingency plan, but it’s only seven pages long and is often vague. “As a rule,” the plan reads, “staffing will be held to the very minimum for the protection of life, property, and public health and safety.”

So it’s not clear—to either the public or park staff—what to expect Saturday in the event of a shutdown. The Washington Post said there was “wide confusion across the park system.” Reportedly, people will still be able to drive through places like Glacier National Park. Florida’s Everglades will remain open to birders. Same with Death Valley, which is now seeing some 80,000 visitors a month. “We don’t have a plan yet,” Abby Wines, spokeswoman for California’s Death Valley National Park, told the Post. “We just got a memo about this yesterday.”

This uncertainty leads to questions. One example: If the parks will supposedly be open, and people will presumably be present, how’s that going to work? On the spectrum of vital services, restrooms might score low. “But what happens when a person pulls up to a restroom and it’s closed? Well they find a place to go anyway,” says Phil Francis, a former National Park Service superintendent and now chair of the the Coalition to Protect America’s National Parks. It might be a glib point, but Francis raised it to illustrate the type of nuance in planning needed to keep parks operating.

On a more serious note, if people are let loose in parks with shuttered visitors centers and no rangers, what if someone gets lost? In the 21-day government shutdown in 1995 a bunch of campers were stranded in a blizzard in the Shenandoah National Park backcountry. That was when parks were closed to the public. This time around, the updated contingency plan aims to prevent that by saying that emergency responders “may be called back to duty if an emergency situation arises.”

The other concern is for the land and the artifacts the park designations were intended to protect in the first place. The NPS’s plan gives superintendents the discretion to close sensitive areas that might be destroyed or looted. But enforcing such closures will fall to the few remaining law enforcement officers on staff. “It is concerning that when there are fewer staff members that some unsavory character might take advantage of the situation,” Francis says.

When the government shuts down and phones at the IRS or the Social Security Administration don’t get answered, it’s annoying. But when the government steps away from its management of our most iconic places? That feels more like neglect. It’s easy to understand why Zinke and the Trump Administration are so set on keeping parks open. And while the idea—like the idea of a functioning government—is a nice one, the reality of doing it with so few staff, with such little preparation, has the chance to go very wrong.

10 Last-Minute Gifts from Huckberry

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When you buy something using the retail links in our stories, we earn an affiliate commission that helps pay for our work. Read more about Outside’s affiliate policy.

We know that there are still a few people on your list that you haven't found the perfect gift for. Fortunately, Huckberry has you covered.

We love the navy face and rough-cut leather band of this chronograph watch.

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Expertly machined from aluminum, the Titanlight is completely waterproof. Unlike your drug store BIC, it's also refillable and lasts a lifetime. 

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Pull out the Bellroy at a coffee shop and people will take notice. The handsome bi-fold is made of responsibly sourced leather, and the slim design stores a handful of bills and up to 11 cards.

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This candle will fill your house with the scents of double-oaked bourbon and salted brown sugar caramel. Plus, when the candle burns out, the glass doubles as a whiskey tumbler.

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The James Brand knives often feature intricate handles and steep prices. Not so with the County, whose slim profile and 2.5-inch blade make it a perfect everyday carry option. 

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Based in Tokyo, Chup makes limited-edition socks from a cotton blend, with intricate patterns inspired by nature.

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If you’re still traveling with your toiletries in a plastic bag, it’s time to upgrade. The triangular shape of this Dopp kit keeps it sitting upright on a counter, providing easy access to all your essentials. 

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Woolrich has been making wool blankets since the Civil War. The Camp utilizes that tried-and-true design and is made from a blend of recycled and new wool. 

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Handcrafted from suede leather, these slippers have a soft pile lining for plush comfort and rubber sole that will protect the leather when wearing them outside.

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Each of these hand-blown glasses features a topographic impression of one of four iconic American peaks: Denali, Half Dome, Rainier, and Whitney. These mountains rise from the bottom of the glasses, submerged in your favorite malt until you drink it down.

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Top 5 'Shitholes' to Visit

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I have to confess something: I love a good shithole. It’s taken me the better part of three decades to step on all seven continents and visit about 80 countries, including many of the those that President Trump would disparage. Last week, he reportedly called those poor (not-white) countries in Africa, Central America and the Caribbean shitholes, but the term has long been used to describe just about any country (and some of our own counties) that lacks the sorts of luxuries that many Americans take for granted.

But here’s the thing: so-called shitholes are the better places to visit. Not only can your dollar affect them the most, but the more beat-down a place is, the greater the potential it has to shake you out of your bubble and give the traveler’s holy grail—you know, this thing called “understanding.” I’ll suffer through skiing in Switzerland with chasselas-soaked chanterelles in my belly if I must, but I’d rather wander around the places our President writes off any day.

Why? The people. They’ve invited me into their homes, let me camp in their gardens between the ginger and frangipani, and given me bowls of goat they just slaughtered for no other reason than because they were curious and kind. Experiences like that make you grateful, and that’s the first step toward becoming decent. So, herewith, five of my favorite shitholes.

A lot of people haven’t heard of Namibia, apparently including our president, who called it Nambia. It’s a rather large but sparsely populated country on the far southwestern tip of Africa between South Africa and Angola. The Namibians have actually enshrined conservation into their constitution and have created scores of game reserves that directly benefit local communities while undercutting the demand for poached wildlife. Though Namibia’s Skeleton Coast is surreal and spectacular, with endless dunes and eerie ships sticking out of the sand, my favorite part of the country might be the Caprivi Strip. That’s a spindle of land in the northeast that connects the South Atlantic with the Zambezi River where Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and Angola all come together to form a swamp of luscious game habitat. I stayed at the Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge within the Wuparo Conservancy and got to watch from a boat while lions chased cape buffalo

It’s strange to call a place known for the pyramids—one of the seven wonders of the world—a shithole, but OK. If you get tired of those, you can always get on a Nile cruiser called the Philae that was just renovated a few years ago and now has a cigar lounge, a top-side pool, and about 20 rooms. It steams between Luxor and Aswan, stopping at more temples. When I went, I had 50 staffers just for me because everyone is too scared to go to Egypt and no one else was on the boat.

In the far southwest corner of Kenya, there’s a place called the Maasai Mara National Reserve—Kenya’s smaller version of Tanzania’s Serengeti, which abuts it to the south. Stay at Cottar’s 1920s Safari Camp, where you can watch wildebeest migrate to search for better grass, and Maasai warriors escort you to your cabin carrying a spear just in a case a hippo tries to ruin your day. Before you leave the country, book a few nights at the Giraffe Manor outside Nairobi. The giraffes are so entitled they’ll literally stick their heads through the windows to take your hard-earned pancakes. What animals.

If Europe were a water closet, Albania would be the shithole. It’s not like Croatia or Italy, where everyone spends lots of money to drink wine, eat good food, and lounge around on the Adriatic. No, in Albania you drink wine, eat good food, and lounge around on the Adriatic for a lot less. The place is tiny, too, roughly the size of Maryland, and 70 percent of it is mountainous with peaks that are nearly as glaciated as the Alps. You can hike under towering limestone big walls on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, raft down the wild Osum River and check out ancient Grecian ruins like Apollonia that few people ever see because no one has developed it. My favorite spot might be Qeparo, where you can kayak around secret submarine tunnels and stay in a fisherman’s inn where the guy gives you free drinks just because you’re an American.

There’s the Virginia of Jamestown, Alexandria, and Charlottesville, and then there’s the Eastern Shore of Virginia, a place that dingles like a berry off the Delmarva Peninsula between the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic. It’s one of the poorest regions in Virginia, if not the whole Mid-Atlantic. There’s a town of maybe 2,000 people there called Cape Charles but with only, like, four restaurants, locals sometimes just go out and collect their own clams or oysters for dinner or they cast into the eel grass beds looking for speckled trout. It’s hard to imagine, but money doesn’t do a lot of good here: people just ride their bikes, look at art, and lounge on a beach right in town that has zero development. There’s not so much as a funnel cake stand. You can paddle a kayak through the Virginia Coast Reserve or tool along undeveloped barrier islands managed by the Nature Conservancy. Kite boarders love the shallow, warm water. And in the summer, bands come and play live music on a dock at the Kings Creek Marina while blue crabs swim around water that turns the color of strawberries at sunset.

Legendary Himalayan Journalist Elizabeth Hawley Dies

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She stalked mountaineers at the arrival gates of Kathmandu’s tiny airport, paid guesthouse receptionists for tips on the climbers’ whereabouts, and pestered guide companies to divulge schedules.

Since 1960, Elizabeth Hawley—a tenacious, exacting Kathmandu-based journalist—interviewed virtually every high-altitude climber to pass through the city, sussing out whether their claims were true and using her notes to create the sport’s most thorough record, called the Himalayan Database. 

She passed away Thursday afternoon at the age of 94. Climbers, colleagues, and friends around the world mourn her loss and remember  her fondly. 

“At age 91, she was still getting into her baby blue VW bug and going to hotels and grilling climbers,” Mount Everest blogger Alan Arnette told Outside. “She kept a lot of people honest.”

Kunda Dixit, now the editor of the Nepali Times, filled in for Hawley as a stringer in the 1980s. “Liz didn’t suffer fools, she wanted everyone to meet her exacting standards,” he says. “As a rookie journalist, I couldn’t have wished for a more effective mentor.”

Ang Tshering Sherpa, the former president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, recalled how Hawley was more than a tough reporter. She once helped his team save a climber trapped on Mount Everest. “In the middle of the night, she was in touch with us, providing valuable suggestions on how we could rescue him,” says Ang Tshering. 

Journalist Billi Bierling, Hawley’s assistant, originally intended to work for Hawley for a year. Instead she stayed for 14. “I’m gutted,” she said from the Dubai airport, en route to Kathmandu.

It’s hard to imagine what Hawley would think of all this. Those who knew her remember a woman not given to sentimentality. She was born in New York City in 1923. After she received her master's from the University of Michigan, Hawley became a researcher at Fortune magazine, but couldn’t imagine a future there. In 1957, she quit to travel the world—visiting places like Algeria, India, Hong Kong, and, of course, Nepal. Upon returning to New York, she had an epiphany. Kathmandu wasn’t just more “real.” It was also more comfortable, pleasant, and fun. She returned to the city with assignments from Time magazine and Reuters, and promptly established herself as a correspondent.

Even though she lived at the base of the biggest mountains on the planet, she didn’t desire to test her human-endurance limits. She rarely, if ever, trekked. She was too busy working.

A story of hers about the death of Nepal’s prime minister made the front page of The New York Times. Big, newsworthy expeditions started arriving in the 1960s. Thirty years later, the number of climbers had skyrocketed. She occasionally found herself in the middle of controversies, such as the 1996 disaster chronicled by Jon Krakauer in his best-selling book Into Thin Air. (“Jon Krakauer, he was very kind, very patient, spent a long time with me,” she once said.) A small group of assistants and supporters joined her in Kathmandu, including Richard Salisbury, a retired climber and computer whiz from Ann Arbor, Michigan, who digitized and catalogued Hawley’s room full of files. 

She spent much of her time in the city reporting, using up significant chunks of her not-large income to do so. Her beloved VW Beetle became a fixture in the city. As I noted in my 2011 profile of Hawley for this magazine, her information came to be relied upon by newswires, scholars, the Nepal Mountaineering Association, the American Alpine Journal, European climbing publications, and the world’s best mountaineers. “If I need information about climbing 8,000-meter peaks, I go to her,” Italian climbing legend Reinhold Messner told me.

One day, when she was in her 70s, she realized she was struggling to gauge distances, so she handed over her license, quit her favorite pastime, and hired a driver. Her career as a chronicler ended just as decisively. In the middle of an interview a year and a half ago, her mind went blank, Hawley’s assistant Bierling said, something that had never happened before. Hawley quit conducting interviews shortly thereafter. 

She held others to high standards, and she wasn’t going to lower them for herself. Nor would she indulge in nostalgia. Bierling recalled asking her what it felt like to give up working on the Himalayan Database, something she was clearly so passionate about.

“Passionate? I’m not passionate about anything, certainly not a database,” said Hawley.

So why then did she carry on for so long?  

“I started something,” she said. “And whenever I start something, I finish it.”

This Is Literally the West's Worst Winter in 60 Years

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As the East gets pummeled by winter storm (cough!) Grayson, a so-called bomb cyclone, and the President issues dumb tweets about global warming, it’s worth noting that ski areas in the central and southern Rockies are having the driest year in recent memory.

“The official numbers show ten to 20 percent of average snowpack,” says Joel Gratz, founding meteorologist at Boulder, Colorado-based OpenSnow, which offers forecasts for skiers. “There’s no way to sugar coat it. There’s just not a lot of snow on the ground.”

Just how dry has this winter been? According to Gratz, automated Snotel measurements done by the USDA have only been in place since the nineteen-seventies. But current conditions from roughly the I-70 corridor—which runs east to west from the main Colorado ski resorts through the Front Range—and south match or exceed the lowest snowpack Snotel levels ever recorded. “It could be the low end since the fifties or sixties,” Gratz speculates.

Brian Lazar, the deputy director of the Colorado Avalanche Information Center, based in Carbondale, notes that the snowpack in southwestern Colorado is especially grim. “Statewide snowpack in Colorado is just over 50 percent of where we should be at this time of year,” says Lazar. “December was one of the driest snowfall monthson record. But the southern mountains are doing even worse than that. It gets progressively worse as you move south.”

There are some bright spots, though. Arapahoe Basin and Breckenridge, closer to the Continental Divide along I-70, have nearly 90 percent of their usual snowpack. Farther north, from northern Washington across northern Idaho and into western Montana, snowfall is above average. And British Columbia is its usual snowy self.

Even in the southern Rockies, it’s been dry but not so warm that ski areas can’t make snow. That’s where ski resorts like Vail, Aspen, Taos, Telluride, Purgatory, and Ski Santa Fe are seeing bets pay off on investments in new snowmaking.

The drought has caused many mountains to take extraordinary measures. Some have kept lift tickets at early season discount prices to keep people coming. Snow conditions in Aspen were so dire that the resort opened a soup kitchen to feed employees who weren’t getting enough work to pay their bills. Meanwhile, the Mountain Collective Pass, good for independent resorts from Revelstoke, B.C., down to some of the hardest hit areas in the south, like Taos, is now back on sale at it’s preseason price of $519.

Lazar and Gratz are both hopeful that the ridge of high pressure parked over the central Rockies could break down soon. “The dry spell that we’re in right now should break,” says Lazar. “We should pick up four-to-eight inches over the weekend.” Gratz sees a stormier pattern setting up by the end of January. But if you want snorkel-worthy powder now, you’ll need to head to the Pacific Northwest, the Alps, or maybe even the mid-Atlantic.

“My dad was going to come out in early January,” says Gratz, “But the skiing was so good in central Pennsylvania that he decided to stay. You don’t hear that too often.”

Did Climate Change Kill a Polar Bear?

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By now you’ve seen the video: an emaciated polar bear staggers along an ice-free Arctic shore, skin and fur hanging loose from its bones. At the bottom of the screen, as the bear struggles to keep its hind legs from collapsing, the words “This is what climate change looks like” appear.

The footage was shot by National Geographic photographer Paul Nicklen in July, as part of his work with a group called SeaLegacy. Initially posted to Nicklen’s Instagram and Facebook feeds, it was published onlineby NatGeo on December 7 and quickly went viral.

Questions and pushback—and pushback on the pushback! —soon followed. (In my social media feeds, there were as many responses to the bear video as there were to The New Yorker’s “Cat Person” short story.) On December 9, in response to questions tweeted at him by a graduate student, Arctic wildlife biologist Jeff Higdon offered some context and criticism about the video. Higdon noted that bear populations in the region where it was shot are considered stable and that seasonally absent ice in that area is normal. (The images were taken on Somerset Island, in the Canadian territory of Nunavut, although the NatGeo post attributed the footage to Baffin Island, slightly further east, resulting in some confusion.) He speculated that the bear in the video might have had an aggressive bone cancer. The bear has not been seen since.

“What the SeaLegacy crew should have done was contact the [government of Nunavut] conservation officer in the nearest community and had this bear put down and necropsied,” Higdon wrote. “The narrative of the story might have turned out quite different if they had.”

Two days later, on December 11, CBC Radio’s national current-affairs program As It Happens aired an interview with Nunavut-based polar bear monitor Leo Ikakhik. Ikakhik was skeptical of the implicit link between the bear’s condition and climate change. “These things happen,” he said, also suggesting that the bear was likely sick or injured. “I wouldn’t really blame theclimate change.”

SeaLegacy’s Cristina Mittermeier, one of the photographers who saw the dying bear, responded to the CBC interview with a provocative statement: “Inuit people make a lot of money from trophy bear hunting,” she wrote, according to As It Happens. “Of course, it is in their best interest to say that polar bears are happy and healthy and that climate change is a joke, because otherwise their quota might be reduced.”

Ikakhik never suggested that climate change was a joke. But Mittermeier’s response represented the latest example of a long history of tension and outright hostility between Inuit communities and Canadian environmental groups with an interest in the Arctic. The conflict nearly always stems from the ongoing Inuit practice of hunting and eating seals, whales, walrus, and polar bears. (Greenpeace Canada recently issued an apology for the impact that its decades-long campaign against the seal hunt has had on Inuit communities.)

“I wasn’t surprised” by the response, said Madeleine Redfern, the mayor of Iqaluit, Nunavut’s capital. “These organizations often have a playbook, certain ways of spinning this issue. When Inuit or northerners speak up and counter their misinformation, they go on the offensive. It was an offensive attack on our people and our culture and our way of life.”

Using her personal Twitter account, Redfern responded to Mittermeier’s statement with a pile of data about Inuit polar-bear hunts. She noted that while Inuit communities have the right to allocate their polar bear quotas for paid sport hunts, more than 90 percent of the tags are kept for community use instead—a single polar bear, she estimated, can provide up to $10,000 worth of meat for remote fly-in communities with limited and very expensive access to groceries.

“Inuit are actually forgoing hundreds of thousands, if not a million dollars, of available income from sports hunts,” she told me. The accusation that Inuit are denying climate change in the name of profit was dishonest and disingenuous, she said.

For his part, Nicklen said he was very careful in his initial social media posts not to overstate a link between the bear’s condition and climate change. But the messaging spun out of his control as the video gained steam, “and all of a sudden the fight was on,” he told me. “The last people I want to upset are the Inuit. The last people I want to upset are the scientific community.”

The whole episode illustrates the difficulty of communicating effectively about something as nebulous and all-encompassing as climate change. In this case, it seems to me, several things are true:

  1. Climate change is real.
  2. Polar bears, like all of us, will be deeply affected by that reality.
  3. The bear in the video was dying.
  4. Its apparent starvation cannot be attributed to climate change with any certainty, or even with any likelihood.
  5. Endorsing point number 4 is not a denial of numbers 1 or 2.
  6. Viral videos and social media responses aren’t the ideal medium for this conversation.

“We’ve lost control of this one,” Nicklen said. “I think people are losing the bigger message.”

“It’s been an interesting learning experience for sure,” said Higdon, whose tweets in response to the video were widely seen. He was frustrated by what he believed were misrepresentations by SeaLegacy. “I thought it was misleading, and misleading to the extent that it doesn’t help communicate various issues,” he said. But since then, his arguments about one specific bear have been cited more broadly by climate change deniers, too. “There’s tweets going out saying climate change isn’t killing the bears, it’s cancer. Which of course is not true. That’s my biggest regret from this.”

The video’s enormous popularity shows that people care, he said, about polar bears and climate change. That’s a good thing. But, he added, “it’s always a matter of trying to turn that care into knowledge, and knowledge into action.”

10 New Snacks to Beat Afternoon Energy Slumps

Fuel up between meals with these healthy options

When afternoon hunger pangs hit, ignoring your secret snack drawer is nearly impossible. But thanks to a wave of nutritious new products, snacks between meals don’t have to set back your healthy eating. Try one of these options, packed with natural ingredients, to restock your snack arsenal and keep cravings at bay.


Free2b Snack Breaks (Shown Above)

Chocolate bark so thin, we’re counting it as a cracker. Unlike most other sweet treats, these have no artificial sweeteners, hydrogenated oils, dairy, or gluten. Instead, the chocolate comes from a single-source supplier in Ghana, which improves the taste, transparency, and traceability of your chocolate fix.

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Farmhouse Culture Kraut Krisps

(Courtesy Farmhouse Culture)

Most “veggie” chips use beet or carrot powder as opposed to an actual crisped-up vegetable. They barely replicate the real deal and offer little to no nutritional value. But 50 percent of the ingredients in Farmhouse Culture Kraut Krisps comes from real sauerkraut (green cabbage, water, sea salt), giving you a hefty dose of digestion-friendly probiotics. Plus, they’re organic and gluten-free. Picky eaters will dig the sea salt variety, while white cheddar is a solid choice if you don’t care about going vegan.

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Siete Grain-Free Tortilla Chips

(Courtesy Siete)

Siete’s latest debut is completely free of corn, wheat, rice, beans, soy, and dairy. So what’s in it? Cassava flour, avocado oil, coconut flour, ground chia seed, and sea salt. This combo health nuts will love also has a sturdy texture that holds up to dips.

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The Real Coconut Flour Tortilla Chips

(Courtesy The Real Coconut)

You could bake your own sliced flour tortillas swathed in coconut oil into crisps, but the chips from this brand will be better, guaranteed. The chipotle barbecue flavor kick is nice, but purists will enjoy the original or even the mildly tangy sea salt and vinegar. Four grams of fiber help you avoid splurging between meals, especially if you slather on hummus or almond butter.

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Late July Cantina Tortilla Chips

(Courtesy Late July)

Each chip in this large bag comes with organic, certified non-GMO, and gluten-free credentials. Ten chips will set you back only around 140 calories. When you’re in the mood for a slightly heartier snack, the pinched edges make these chips ideal for dipping into fresh guac or salsa.

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Oatmega Grass-Fed Whey Protein Cookies

(Courtesy Oatmega)

Yes, the company nailed all the buzzwords here, but there’s good reason to throw these into your grocery cart. Each cookie has 12 to 13 grams of protein and a daily dose worth 250 millgrams of EPA and DHA omega-3s from sustainably sourced fish oil. And they taste like the real deal.

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Pasta Snacks Pasta Bow Ties

(Courtesy Pasta Snacks)

A solid weapon to fight off an afternoon energy crash, these guys are made with semolina flour—slightly higher in protein—and oven baked for a light-as-air crunch. Flavors range from meatball parm to honey butter, depending on your craving.

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Crunchies Beets

(Courtesy Crunchies Food)

Actual freeze-dried beets, and that’s it. The freeze-drying process maintains the beets’ nutrients and creates a light, airy crunch. If you’ve got a hankering for something a tad sweeter, try Crunchies Mango, the company’s newest addition.

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Honey Stinger Chocolate Mint Waffle

(Courtesy Honey Stinger)

When you consider race-day staples, Honey Stinger is likely already on your shortlist. The latest addition to this organic, gluten-free waffle line is worthy of becoming another go-to. With a chewier and less crumbly quality than Honey Stinger’s regular waffles, the chocolate mint flavor includes thin layer of honey infused with natural cocoa flavor to perk you up for the afternoon.

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Crunchmaster Protein Crackers

(Courtesy)

Swap your typical protein bar for a few handfuls of these crackers with five grams of protein per serving. That protein comes from brown rice and chickpeas, so they’re vegan, too. Available nationwide in June.

Can Climbing Mountains Make You Crazy?

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In the winter of 1987, Slovenian mountaineer and doctor Iztok Tomazin attempted Nepal’s 26,795-foot Dhaulagiri with his climbing partner, Marjan Kregar. The summit of the world’s seventh tallest peak lies in the so-called death zone: the area above 8,000 meters where the air no longer contains enough oxygen to sustain human life.

After 17 hours of nonstop climbing, Tomazin reached the summit. He was exhausted and vomiting. It was bitterly cold and windy, but Tomazin waited for his partner to arrive. Kregar topped out only 20 minutes later, but in Tomazin’s state of mind, he was convinced he would’ve waited for him up there forever.

The pair started to descend together, but it was dark and they got separated. As Tomazin made his way alone, he encountered some mountain guides on the route. They gave him advice he didn’t want to follow—cajoling him to rest when he needed to push on, among other things—making him angry in the process. Soon Tomazin found himself at the top of Dhaulagiri’s east face, a sheer 6,500-foot drop—he’d gone the wrong way.

“I was in great distress, very exhausted, dehydrated and hypothermic and trapped in difficult terrain without knowledge where to descend and with great wish/need to find a shelter where I could rest and sleep,” wrote Tomazin in an account of the episode. But the mountain guides had followed him. They talked kindly to him and offered more advice. They urged him to jump down the east face. “In few seconds you will be on a flat, safe place 2,000 meters lower. This will solve all your problems.”

It sounded like a good idea. Tomazin moved closer to the edge and prepared to jump.

But the mountain guides weren’t real.


According to a new study by a team of researchers in Europe, Tomazin—a a co-author on the study—was suffering from high-altitude psychosis, a condition that’s long been described anecdotally by mountaineers. While symptoms of psychosis can and do appear in conjunction with other serious high-altitude medical conditions, like high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE), it can also exist on its own. It’s not a side effect of altitude sickness, per se, but rather a side effect of high altitude. The researchers posit that high-altitude psychosis is its own separate condition and should be treated as such.

To conduct their study, the team combed mountaineering literature and ended up with a sample of 83 potential episodes of psychosis for analysis. These included cases from notable climbers such as Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, and Jon Krakauer. To identify psychosis, the researchers used criteria from the American Psychiatric Association’s diagnostic manual. The episodes were then analyzed and separated into three categories: no psychosis (51 percent), psychosis with other mental status change like HACE (22 percent), and isolated psychosis without symptoms of mental status change or HACE (28 percent). In 23 of the episodes they studied, psychosis was the sole symptom.

Tomazin wasn’t suffering from HACE, where the brain swells with fluid. Those with HACE are often lethargic, disoriented, have difficulty walking without stumbling, and will die from the condition if it’s left untreated. Once Tomazin descended to a lower altitude, which he could do unaided (unlike most people suffering from HACE), his hallucinations vanished, and he had no permanent neurological abnormalities.

Sometimes on-mountain hallucinations can be helpful, like when they follow the principles of “third man syndrome,” where a presence provides comfort or aid during a traumatic experience—say, in the form of a force that guides a struggling climber back to the safety of camp. (This occurred in 22 of the cases in the study, including 14 of the episodes of isolated psychosis). But more often the psychosis proved dangerous; researchers found it increased the rates of accidents and near accidents.


While standing on the edge of the east face of Dhaulagiri in 1987, Tomazin decided to do a test jump first. He hopped six feet down to a small ledge. The pain he felt told him that the mountain guides were wrong. He decided not to jump farther. This is an example of a cognitive strategy called “reality testing,” which the researchers recommend climbers employ. And while the research doesn’t offer an in-the-moment method to help climbers differentiate between HACE and high-altitude psychosis, they’re working on it.

The researchers are also conducting a follow-up study where they plan to collect more experiences of psychosis at altitude. (If you have a story to share, you can email the researchers here.) Once they’ve collected a representative sample, they hope to establish a questionnaire for measuring high-altitude psychosis and then complete a field study in the Himalayas.

“We think that it will be very important to have a simple questionnaire to measure high-altitude psychosis (just as there is one available to measure symptoms of somatic conditions such as acute mountain sickness) because this will allow the climbers to identify subjects with psychosis,” says Katharina Hüfner, lecturer at the University of Innsbruck and one of the study’s authors. “If a climber shows symptoms of psychosis on the mountain, he or she cannot be left alone and can absolutely not take any decisions regarding the climb. We hope that this will help to prevent accidents on the mountain and lead to more safety.”

Tribal and Enviro Lawyers Take on Trump Over Bears Ears

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The legal fight against President Donald Trump’s use of the Antiquities Act to shrink Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante national monuments is pretty straightforward. Take it from Navajo Nation Attorney General Ethel Branch. “There is nothing in the Antiquities Act that authorizes the President to modify a national monument once it’s been designated,” she says.

Suits challenging Trump’s proclamations, which cumulatively removed more than two million acres in Utah from protection on Monday, arrived swiftly. Late that day, Earthjustice—representing eight environmental organizations—teamed up with the Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance and the Natural Resources Defense Council to sue Trump for chopping Grand Staircase-Escalante up into three smaller monuments. On Tuesday, the five tribes represented in the Bears Ears Coalition—the Navajo, Hopi, Ute, Zuni, and Ute Mountain Ute—filed suit over Bears Ears getting hacked into two smaller monuments.

According to the Salt Lake Tribune, Trump was advised to shrink rather than revoke the monuments because there's a precedent for such a move. (Woodrow Wilson halved Mount Olympus National Monument in 1915.) There are, however, major differences between now and then. Wilson’s move was designed to free up timber for the World War I effort, and it was never met with legal opposition. And Congress passed a law in 1976 that’s surely familiar to Utah’s Sagebrush Rebellion-inspired delegation—the Federal Land Policy and Management Act, which makes clear that the Antiquities Act, in Congress’ view at least, allows a president to designate national monuments and nothing else. 

In July, 121 law professors signed a letter to Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke that laid out the Trump Administration’s “profound misunderstandings of both the nature of national monuments and the President’s legal authority under the Antiquities Act.” In the letter, the attorneys cited specific language in the Federal Land Policy and Management Act as proof. For instance, the law states that the executive branch may not “modify or revoke any withdrawal creating national monuments.” The legislative history, the lawyers wrote, shows that Congress “reserved the authority to modify and revoke withdrawals for national monuments created under the Antiquities Act.”

“This opens the door to sort of a game of monument ping-pong, where you have anti-monument presidents stripping places of protection, only to be followed by pro-monument presidents who restore and even increase them,” says Earthjustice attorney Heidi McIntosh. “That’s clearly not what Congress intended.”

Because legal arguments are rooted in the language of the Antiquities Act and Constitutional authority (the Supreme Court has repeatedly found that, under the Property Clause, Congress is the lone body that can set regulations on and dispose of public land), many of the finer points that constitute the basis of the Trump Administration’s argument may not stand up in court. Take, for instance, Zinke’s oft-repeated claim that Trump’s decision to shrink the monuments came in response to a misinterpretation of the Antiquities Act by previous presidents. “When the powers are abused to make a monument into a park, that is not within the powers of the president under the Antiquities Act to do,” Zinke told the Washington Post. Yet he’s arguing the very same act justifies Trump’s sweeping changes to existing monuments.

In his final national monuments review, formally released Tuesday but leaked months ago, Zinke said landscape-scale monuments violate the act’s requirement that a monument be the “smallest area compatible” with protection of the object. But his interpretation places the focus on what sits outside the national monuments. One would be hard-pressed to argue that the size of Grand Staircase-Escalante was incompatible with the goal of protecting its unique geology and fossil record.

This notion is also on display with Bears Ears. During a recent airplane tour of the area, Friends of Cedar Mesa Executive Director Josh Ewing pointed out dozens of canyons and mesas with a “high density of archaeological sites.” Most of them fell outside the boundaries of Trump's new, smaller Shásh Jaa' and Indian Creek national monuments. Ewing’s point was clear: the new monuments are incompatible with protecting the sacred sites designated in the original Bears Ears proclamation.

Native American Rights Fund attorney Natalie Landreth, who represents the Hopi, Zuni, and Ute Mountain Ute tribes in the Bears Ears case, says this amounts to more than just the revisions for which the Trump Administration claims there’s a precedent. “This is a full-scale revoke and replace,” she said in a conference call. “It creates two different monuments with two different names and two different boundaries. This is not, no matter what they want to call it, a boundary modification.”

Both lawsuits were filed in federal court in the District of Columbia. Others are likely to follow soon: parties like climbing advocacy group Access Fund and gear maker Patagonia have said they’ll also sue. Other monuments are likely on the chopping block, too. Zinke’s report calls for Cascade-Siskiyou, in Oregon, and Gold Butte, in Nevada, to be re-sized, and he told the Washington Post he was “fairly confident” Trump will follow his recommendations.