Humans Are Turning Mammals More Nocturnal

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Have you ever wondered why you often don’t see animals larger than a squirrel while on your Saturday morning nature walk or mountain-bike ride?

There’s a reason for that, scientists say: Us.

Around the world, larger mammals are becoming more active at night to avoid disturbance by humans—whether that’s roads and other development, energy exploration, or even recreation, according to a study to be published June 15 in the journal Science.

“As the human footprint is expanding across the planet, if animals are trying to avoid us, there are fewer and fewer places for them to go,” says Kaitlyn Gaynor, the study’s lead author and a doctoral candidate in the Department of Environmental Science, Policy, and Management at the University of California-Berkeley. “So they avoid us in time.”

The researchers found that, on average, larger mammals became 1.36 times more nocturnal in response to human disturbances. For instance, if an animal normally splits its active time equally between day and night, it will shift and spend 68 percent of its time active at night, on average, according to the findings.

The authors uncovered other surprises. You might think a mammal would shy away more from a hunter than, say, a hiker, camper, drill pad, or any other kind of intrusion. Not so. “Surprisingly, non-lethal human activities generated similar shifts in wildlife [daily] patterns as lethal activities, suggesting that animals perceive and respond to humans as threats even when they pose no direct risk,” the authors write. “You might expect that animals will respond more strongly to these more permanent fixtures,” like homes and other structures, Gaynor says. “But they respond really strongly to people.”

The findings are the latest in a growing body of research that has found even seemingly low-impact activities harm wildlife more than nature-lovers might hope. “When people say, ‘My backpacking in a wilderness area has a much lighter ecological footprint than ATVs or oil and gas development in those same areas,’ my response is, ‘Yeah, that’s probably true,’” says Justin Brashares, a professor at Berkeley in whose lab Gaynor works.But the new study shows that it doesn’t take an oil derrick to affect wildlife. Humans are often not a benign presence, says Brashares. “We have to accept that our presence alone alters the behavior of wildlife.”

To come to this conclusion, Gaynor and her colleaguesdid what’s called a meta-analysis. They gathered 76 published studies that looked at 62 species of mammals on every continent but Antarctica. Each study looked at how active wildlife was at night in areas with both high and low human disturbance. Then, using those statistics, the researchers looked for patterns.

They focused only on mammals one kilogram (2.2 pounds) and heavier, from the opossum to the African elephant. Larger mammals have greater need for space than small ones, and thus there’s more potential for conflict. But they also tend to have more ability to change their behavior.

Most of the effects the researchers found when the wildlife responded to human disturbance—83 percent—corresponded with an increase toward nighttime activity. Not every change was large.Overall, though, the findings show “significant, widespread increase in nocturnality among mammals living alongside people,” the authors write.

Rick Knight, a professor emeritus at Colorado State University’s Department of Human Dimensions of Natural Resources, who has for decades studied what happens where human communities meet ecosystems, applauds the authors’ efforts. Many studies have examined how animals avoid humans in space but not in time, says Knight. “I think they have chosen a topic that for far too long has been overlooked,” he says.  

The shift Gayor and her team observed could have far-ranging consequences for mammals’ fitness, the food web, and even their evolution, according to the study.

Pushing mammals toward the night could mean that animals that are better adapted to a shift—physically, behaviorally—survive. Over time, and worldwide, this could affect evolution, as certain traits grow more pronounced to benefit life in the dark. 

The shift also may cause “mismatches.” Many species have evolved traits that let them operate best during the day. If animals spend more of their waking hours at night, they may suffer, becoming easier prey or poorer hunters, the authors write. All of this could add up to poorer reproduction and survival, which in turn could disrupt entire populations.

As animals shift the period when they’re active, the age-old patterns of who-eats-whom may be disrupted. Food that’s a staple of a daytime diet may be harder to find at night, even as other food walks onto the scene. Such changes may ripple through the food web “and (transform) entire ecological communities,” the authors write.

Changes are already happening. In Alberta’s Rocky Mountains, yet-to-be-published work by Sandra Frey, a graduate student at the University of Victoria’s School of Environmental Studies, has found that wolves in the busy Kananaskis Country, west of Calgary, shift more toward nighttime activity than wolves in Willmore Wilderness Park, a roadless, little-trammeled park about a day’s drive north. Even within the Willmore, wolves show altered behavior, with animals near the park’s borders becoming more active at night than those deeper in the park, says Frey.

In California’s Santa Cruz mountains, coyotes that live in preserves adjacent to human activity have shifted to eating a diet of night prey, researcher Justine Smith at Berkeley and her colleagues found last year. In doing so, the adaptable predators are encroaching on gray foxes, who by nature hunt mostly at night, and who often are killed by coyotes they encounter. 

In still other cases, the patterns emerging are more chaotic and less predictable. Researchers haven’t yet teased out why. In Alberta, Frey found that the American marten, a carnivore which is mostly nocturnal in the wilderness, has become much more active in the daytime in the busier Kananaskis Country. The Canadian Rockies hold a huge number of carnivores—wolves, cougars, wolverine, lynx, coyote, marten, and smaller weasels. Over time, these predators have figured out how to get along in time and space, Frey says. But if some animals move more to the nighttime, that could produce “cascading shifts” that jumbles all sorts of behaviors, she says. “It gets complicated, it gets nuanced, and it gets really fascinating.” Where it ends, or how much it matters, is, for now, an open question.

Not all the change is necessarily negative. Shifting to a more nocturnal existence may allow larger mammals to survive in the presence of humans, as the world grows ever more crowded, the authors suggest. The shift might reduce attacks on people by larger predators, and could reduce disease transmission such as rabies between wildlife and humans. “You can see these results as just another way we are messing things up,” says Gaynor. “The flip side is, this is a mechanism for co-existence.”

She and her colleagues call for more research, not only of the size of the effect that humans are having, but also on whether a similar change may be happening in organisms other than mammals.

They also suggest using this new information when planning for conservation—giving animals time and not just space. Approaches might include more "temporal zoning," which means keeping humans out of wildlife habitat when the animals are especially active or vulnerable. Such restrictions are already used in many places. Canada’s Banff National Park has several seasonal closures, including a two-month hiking restriction on a popular trail to allow bears to feed on berries. Officials also close more than 10 miles of the Bow Valley Parkway through the park in the spring, to give the animals the space they need.

Mammals are thought to have originally evolved to be nocturnal. Some of the traits many still have—whiskers, an acute sense of smell, decent night vision—are believed to be vestiges of that time when they snuffled around after sunset. Research published last year has bolstered the theory that our nocturnal forebears were able to emerge, blinking into sunlight, only upon the demise of the ravenous, day-living dinosaurs, and become the new kings of the land.

This theory perhaps holds a hope for mammals’ ability to persevere. It holds perhaps a very different message for the mammal that now scatters them.

First Look: Eddie Bauer's Katabatic 2 Tent

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Since its launch in 2014, Eddie Bauer’s Katabatic tent has been a regular sight at high-alpine camps around the world. The three-person, double-walled model was built to be burly yet easy to set up, with a small footprint, lots of head room, and the ability to withstand gusts of up to 80 miles per hour. Still, like any bombproof four-season tent, it’s heavy, at 11.5 pounds.

Now there’s a lighter, smaller option. In July (specific launch date TBD), the brand is releasing a two-person version called the Katabatic 2 ($700). (An updated version of the original Katabatic 3 is available for sale now) At ten pounds, this tent is lighter than the three-person version, but it’s still burly and laden with details that make it ideal for gnarly, high-alpine weather.

The two-person tent has 38 square feet of floor space—making it about ten square feet smaller than its predecessor. But many of the original Katabatic’s features remain: two ceiling vents, which help alleviate condensation, often a problem with double-walled mountaineering tents; steep walls, which keep the footprint tight without costing head room (in fact, the tent feels positively spacious); tough 20-denier nylon walls and fly and an even hardier 70-denier nylon floor; and a large front vestibule.

The tent gets several more small updates, all centered around making it more bombproof and comfortable. The rear vestibule now has a curved zipper, rather than a vertical one, making for a bigger opening and easier entrance. The sidewalls are steeper to better shed snow. And instead of C-shaped hooks, the tent now clips to the poles using two-sided hooks that twist on and lock in place for added security.

And hallelujah! The Katabatic 2 also has more internal pockets—14 in all. There’s enough storage space to stash wet layers, headlamps, toiletries, food, and pretty much anything else you might want quick access to if you’re tent-bound for multiple days during a storm.

As with any built-out mountaineering tent, the Katabatic 2 doesn’t set up in a flash. It took me about 30 minutes with no instructions (and no help). But thanks to the color-coordinated poles, setup is fairly intuitive. Three-pronged guylines—a single line threaded through three attachment points—self-equalize, so you can tension out the shelter quickly. We haven’t taken the Katabatic 2 on any high-altitude expeditions, but we did test it on a blustery New Mexico day. The wind was lifting our camp chairs and tossing them across the rocky ground, but the tent didn’t budge or rattle.

It would be silly to call this ten-pound hulk lightweight, but as far as storm-ready mountaineering tents go, the Katabatic 2 seems to maximize weight, strength, and livability. And at $700, this shelter is far from cheap, but it’s less than many other two-person mountaineering tents on the market (the MSR Remote 2 costs $800; Black Diamond’s Fitzroy costs $850). It’s overkill for a casual desert camping trip, but if you’re headed to 6,000 meters or otherwise expecting possibly apocalyptic conditions, it’s just right.

The Woman Making Bomber Women’s Skis

Jen Gurecki had zero experience designing skis—until she decided to start her own women’s ski company

Name: Jen Gurecki
Job: CEO, Coalition Skis
Home Base: Reno, Nevada
Age: 40
Education: An undergraduate degree in print journalism from Northern Arizona University and a master’s degree in education from Prescott College

Jen Gurecki was enrolled in a PhD program at Arizona’s Prescott College, studying sustainability, when she decided to launch a company that would make high-quality skis and snowboards for women. Coalition Snow, which Gurecki founded in 2014, took off faster than she anticipated, and she had to make a choice: drop out of school or give up her growing brand. She took a gamble and picked the skis. “Women really have never had a lot of choices when it came to quality and performance in skis and snowboards,” Gurecki says. “I knew they deserved more.”

Never mind that Gurecki had no experience designing or building skis—she had previously owned a whitewater rafting company in Tahoe, worked in outdoor education at UC Berkeley, and started an organization that gives microloans to women opening businesses in Kenya. “After you’ve started a business in Africa, everything else seems easy,” Gurecki says. She found advisers in the ski and snowboard industry to guide her in manufacturing and eventually rolled out three pairs of skis and one snowboard in Coalition Snow’s initial lineup. Three years later, the company has five full-time employees in the Reno-Tahoe area, ten ski and snowboard models, and a growing collection of apparel. We asked Gurecki for some insights on growing a brand while not missing a powder day.

On the Biggest Misperceptions About Running a Ski Company: “People think we ski and après all of the time, which couldn’t be further from the truth. We just don’t share photos of Excel spreadsheets, marketing funnels, and KPIs on Instagram. No one else needs to wallow in our sorrows.”

On Finding Time to Ski: “When you’re the founder of a company and you’re in the early stages, daily life is a hustle, because there will always be endless amounts of work to do. I’ve stopped feeling guilty about taking time away from work to get outside. I carve out at least an hour a day to ride my bike or make some turns. And I never schedule meetings in the morning during the winter.”

On the Most Fulfilling Part of Her Job: “The freedom to create. I’m not bound by a handbook or a set of best practices. It’s exciting and occasionally terrifying to be able to turn your vision into a reality, whether that’s a new ski design, a podcast, or a campaign.”

On Her Favorite Coalition Product: “Don’t tell anyone, but I’m a better snowboarder than skier, so my favorite piece of equipment is Coalition’s new splitboard, because there’s something so special about being in the backcountry, away from the crowds and noise and frenetic first-chair vibe.”

On the Best Piece of Career Advice She’s Received: “Know what it is you’re willing to suffer for.”

On Her Biggest Fear: “Shark attacks and hippos. Just kidding (kind of). It’s actually staring massive, life-changing failure in the face and knowing that I could have done something differently that would have resulted in a better outcome.”

On How to Make the Most of Your Next Ski Trip: “Don’t get too attached to an outcome you may not be able to control. You could spend an endless amount of planning for that perfect window of the right conditions, snowpack, and storm cycle and still not get it right. Mother Nature is the ultimate decider, and she always wins. So be grateful for what you get, even if it’s not what you planned for.”

6 Places to Escape Winter

Swap ice and cold for sand and sun

Don’t get us wrong, we love winter. But sometimes you need a break from the frostbite-inducing temperatures and layers and layers of wool and down. Plan an escape to a warmer locale and the sunshine, clear trails, and empty beaches will give you the strength to make it through to spring.

Todos Santos

Mexico

Todos Santos overlooks the Pacific Ocean, on the western side of the Baja Peninsula. Visiting in winter means swimming with whale sharks, snorkeling with sea lions, and sipping mezcal on the beach, with a chance to spot humpback whales and hundreds of fish species. Fly into La Paz and reserve an oceanfront casita at Los Colibris (from $125). Through the hotel, you can book daylong guided hiking trips into the nearby Sierra de La Laguna range or overnight glamping trips in the Sea of Cortez on Espiritu Santo Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site that you’ll reach by boat.

Nelson

New Zealand

A reminder: When it’s winter here, it’s summer in the Southern Hemisphere. Hop a flight to New Zealand for a complete seasonal shift. Abel Tasman National Park, on the northern edge of New Zealand’s South Island, is known for its multiday treks and golden beaches. Stay in one of three guest suites at the Split Apple Retreat (from $1,218) for access to isolated beaches, saltwater pools overlooking Tasman Bay, and five-course tasting dinners. Or sleep on a nearby sheep farm in the Honeywell Hut (from $140), built of reclaimed timber and with mountain biking out the door.

San Diego

California

You’ll surf in a wetsuit midwinter in San Diego—the water can get chilly—but air temperatures hovering in the 60s mean you can run in a T-shirt and shorts. Head to this laid-back coastal city for surfing, hiking trails, and a thriving year-round triathlon training scene. The Kona Kai Resort (from $149) has a private marina, evening fire pits with s’mores fixings, and local bands on weekends. You can rent bikes, paddleboards, and sea kayaks directly from the hotel.

Essaouira

Morocco

You’ll come to the charming seaside town of Essaouira, on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, for windsurfing, a legendary music scene, and seafood dinners with ocean views. Book through Naya Traveler and a savvy travel agent will arrange everything from private surf lessons to a camel ride on the beach. Or check out Explora Watersports for gear and guidance on everything from kitesurfing to stand-up paddleboarding. The big summer music festivals here draw thousands of people, but you’ll still find quality live music and fewer crowds during the winter months.

Naples

Florida

Retreat to the white-sand beaches of Naples, Florida, along the Gulf of Mexico, for sea kayaking, paddleboarding, and reading on the beach. LaPlaya Resort (from $529) offers a frostbite-relief package with discounted winter rates and a $50 nightly resort credit toward things like dinners on the beach and Himalayan salt-stone massage treatments. While there, you can take yoga and strength-training classes, charter a fishing boat, or have cocktails delivered to your beach chair.

Ruaha National Park

Tanzania

Head to southern Tanzania in January or February and you stand a good chance of having much of the place to yourself—most safari-bound tourists from Europe and North America drop in during summer holidays between June to September. Jabali Ridge (from $788 per night per person), a new safari lodge that opened in September inside Ruaha National Park, has eight high-end suites built into granite boulders, an infinity pool and spa, and three-course dinners under the stars.

Do Climbers Need Aerobic Endurance?

A new study wades into the controversy, with unexpected results

When Steve House and Scott Johnson published their book Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete back in 2014, they waded into a longstanding debate: Do climbers, as House and Johnson argued, really need to work on their aerobic endurance in the same way that runners and cyclists do? Or does their endurance just need to be “good enough,” like how a baseball pitcher needs to be sort of fit but doesn’t need to run marathons?

With climbing now an official part of the 2020 Olympic program, sports scientists are taking a closer look at the sport—and the latest study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology by researchers at the University of Milan, offers a revised take on the importance of endurance for climbers.

The researchers aren’t the first team to investigate the aerobic demands of climbing, of course. One of the most frequently cited climbing studies is a French study from 1995, which found that climbing routes rated 7b in the French system (around 5.12b) used less than half the maximum rate of oxygen consumption (VO2max) that the climbers could produce while running. The conclusion—and in some ways still the conventional wisdom—is that climbers are unlikely to be limited by their aerobic fitness.

Other studies have found similar results, but they all face some fairly significant methodological issues. For one thing, climbing isn’t a smooth, continuous motion like most endurance sports. It’s a mix of sustained tension and dynamic motion, big moves and little ones, aerobic and anaerobic energy. To get a decent estimate of energy demand, you need to average your measurement over a relatively long period of time.

With this in mind, the new study put 13 Italian climbers through two different VO2max tests. One was a fairly standard test on a stationary bike, with the volunteers pedaling at successively greater power in four-minute stages, with five-minute breaks between stages, until they reached exhaustion. The other VO2max test was the same, but instead of doing it on a bike, they did four-minute stages on a treadwall moving at progressively faster speeds up a 6c (5.11b) route until they reached exhaustion.

The treadwall they used was a Climblock Rotor, which is a cylindrical wall, with a maximum height set to ensure that the climbers were always on a negative slope of at least 120 degrees. Here’s what that looked like, with the climber wearing a mask to measure oxygen use:

(European Journal of Applied Physiology)

One question the researchers wanted to explore was the relationship between heart rate and oxygen consumption. Can you use a heart rate monitor to get a reasonable estimate of how hard a climber is working aerobically? You can do that with runners and cyclists—but again, in climbing, some of the particular characteristics of the sport make heart rate a less reliable proxy. For one thing, being anxious about the prospect of falling can raise your pulse. The same is true for exercising with your arms above your head—your heart has to pump blood against gravity—and for prolonged isometric contractions, when you’re hanging onto a hold without moving.

As expected, the heart rate for a given level of oxygen consumption was higher during climbing than cycling, particularly at low and medium intensities. Or to put it the other way around, climbing with a heart rate of 120 beats per minute is not as good an aerobic workout as cycling with a heart rate of 120. The differences weren’t huge, though—generally on the order of ten to 20 beats per minute.

There were also some differences depending on the climber’s ability level. Seven of the subjects were characterized as “advanced” (with best redpoint level of at least 7a/5.11d), while the other six were “elite” (at least 8a/5.13b). The biggest contrast was predictable: The elites were more efficient than the advanced climbers, needing less oxygen and a lower heart rate to climb at any given speed. This measurement is the analogue to running economy as an efficiency metric in runners. Watching good climbers flow up a wall, it’s easy to see how technical skill results in better economy.

The biggest surprise in the study was the VO2max values attained. In the cycling test, the average peak was about 54 ml/kg/min; in the treadmill test, it was about 52 ml/kg/min. Unlike the French study from the 1990s, where climbing used barely half of their maximal aerobic capacity, these guys were essentially climbing right at VO2max, “thus questioning the current belief that maximum aerobic fitness is not an important requirement for climbing,” the authors write.

I’m not entirely sold on this argument. By the time they maxed out, the elite climbers were scooting up the treadwall at a rate of 11.8 meters per minute (the advanced climbers averaged 9.2 meters per minute). That may well be a severe aerobic challenge, but how often are climbers actually trying to sustain that sort of speed for minutes on end on real rock? Just because climbing can be an aerobic challenge doesn’t mean it is in practice.

Of course, talking about “the aerobic demands of climbing” as if climbing is all one thing is misleading anyway. Some critics argue that the three-discipline format planned for climbing’s Olympic debut, which includes sport climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing, is akin to asking runners to compete in both the 100 meters and the marathon. (A more accurate comparison would probably be the decathlon, where runners compete in the 100 and 1,500 meters.) The physiological demands of each discipline will be slightly different, and the winner may well end up being someone who’s simply good at all three, rather than truly great at one or two.

Alpinists like Steve House, meanwhile, are in another category altogether. When he and Johnston argue that climbers should train like endurance athletes, it’s because the challenges they tackle range from hours to days long—and often at high altitude. For that sort of climbing, there’s no doubt that aerobic fitness is a crucial prerequisite to success.

To me, the Milan study suggests that in that vast middle ground between bouldering and Everest, the role of aerobic fitness may be greater than previously thought. For a novice climber like me, though, the reality remains simple: I can only dream of the far-off day when my forearms and grip get strong enough to make climbing aerobically challenging.


Discuss this post on Twitter or Facebook, sign up for the Sweat Science email newsletter, and check out my forthcoming book, Endure: Mind, Body, and the Curiously Elastic Limits of Human Performance.

The Moments That Changed Us

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There are points in life that forever change who we are and who we will become. Often, these are our “firsts.” It could be something heavy, like falling in love or being thrown from your raft in the Grand Canyon and pinned underwater until your heart stopped. But the power of defining moments is that they don’t have to be major events. Maybe you grew up with a wooded backyard that ingrained a love of nature, or maybe it was the first time you lived out of your van that gave you a real taste of freedom. Like you, our writers have their own moments that forever changed their lives. Below, we’ve collected some of our favorites.

Twenty-five years ago, writer, director, and photographer Jeff Johnson was a lifeguard on Oahu when 30-foot waves started detonating on the reef.

I arrived early to set up the lifeguard tower at Sunset Beach, on Oahu’s North Shore. It was 1994, my first winter season as a lifeguard. I’d made a few mellow rescues but hadn’t been involved in anything serious yet. This morning, the waves were small and clean. The water was packed with bodies.


When the engine light flicks off, do you listen to the voice that says it’s time to panic or the one urging you to calmly set the plane down?

When the engine on my ultralight cut out, I was supposed to be ready. Pilots aren’t pessimists, but we practice worst-case scenarios over and over. I’d been flying for years, yet I hadn’t practiced for that sucker punch of adrenaline, the way my hair stood on end, the shock of the sudden silence.


Quite possibly the most storied, most coveted, most majestic of all tricks—held for three glorious seconds.

I can get down a ski hill nice and clean, but I’ve never been an air guy. Now that I’m almost 50, I prefer to keep the skis on the snow. Even in my oblivious, invincible years, I was wary of the ether.


After 13 agonizing years of waiting, it finally happened for writer Wells Tower—and then the moment disappeared.

At 13, I was sure I was the only American boy who hadn’t yet gotten his mouth onto someone else’s mouth. They were doing it on the school bus and down at the teen center, really kissing.


Trolling the Pacific Ocean for sharks on a boat called the Dinner Plate.

What I noticed, in the moments before I saw the shark, was the silence. It was a deep silence, full of myth and primordial fear.


How to love someone like you love a mountain, and how to allow yourself to fall.

Last fall, I met a Forest Service lifer named Mike, a long and lean natural athlete who, like me, chose southwestern Colo­rado’s high country as the place to spend his life, and who, also like me, loves more than anything to hike long distances and sleep on the ground.


When all else fails, run around like a raving lunatic while you swing a burning log.

In the summer of 1993, when I was newly married, my husband B. and I took his nephew and my two little brothers camping in the Sierra Nevada. Neither I nor the boys, who were ages 12 to 14, had ever been on a serious hiking trip—an unthinkable experiential deficit, in my outdoorsy husband’s view.


Writer Ian Frazier learns that if you want to impress anyone while you’re living in your van, for God’s sake, don’t tell them you live in your van.

I had not expected that it would tick. As soon as the sun hit it in the morning—at 6 a.m. or so, in June, in northern Michigan—the metal would start to expand in the heat: tick…tick…tick. My first summer living in my van, in the Pigeon River campground near the town of Vanderbilt, I almost never succeeded in sleeping past dawn.


After a legendary career in adventure writing, Tim Cahill thought his story was over. Thrown from a raft in the Grand Canyon’s Lava Falls, he was trapped underwater and out of air. When he finally reached land, his heart stopped for several minutes. Then he came back—and decided to risk Lava again.

Now, on the matter of my death in the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River, specifically after an alarming swim in Lava Falls—universally considered the canyon’s nastiest and most difficult rapid—I confess that I miscalculated badly. I miscalculated previous to the run and then again in the aftermath of the excitement to come.


When Kyle Dickman set out on a monthlong road trip with his wife and infant son last spring, he was fueled by a carefree sense of adventure that had defined his entire life. Then he got bit by a venomous snake in a remote area of Yosemite National Park, and the harrowing event changed everything.

My parents like to say they raised my older brother, Garrett, and me in the Church of Seventh Day Recreation. As a kid growing up in Oregon, I remember asking them if we could actually stay home one weekend instead of camping or hiking or canoeing. They relented, but that was the exception to the rule. Through that prism, you might say I was preordained to be with my family on that bridge, with that snake, on that warm April morning in Yosemite.


If you’re lucky, you encountered nature for the first time by running out the back door. During our writer’s boyhood, a suburban forest was a gateway to learning, exploration, and natural splendors that shaped his life and career.

When you’re a kid, the world seems big and ordained. Things are as they are because they are. Even your neighborhood seems big and ordained, until you outgrow it, depart, and consider it again from a distance. Then you might start to see its deeper dimensions—its ­layers of time, contingency, and meaning.


No one knew if it could be done. But when Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler climbed Mount Everest without oxygen in 1978, they smashed one of the last barriers of human performance. Almost 40 years later, both legends talk about their first ascent by “fair means”—and the long-running feud that followed.

Tenzing Norgay wasn’t buying it. Neither were the five other Sherpas who’d summited Mount Everest since 1953, when Tenzing and Edmund Hillary first knocked the bastard off. The Euros had been too fast—too fast to have climbed the mountain with bottled oxygen, let alone without it. But such was the claim that Italian Reinhold Messner, then 33, and Austrian Peter Habeler, 35, were making about their Everest summit on May 8, 1978.


Memorable lives combine tough choices, an adventurous spirit, hard work, and luck—and who knows where any of it comes from? For our writer, the wellspring was a Colorado spread that she was barely able to buy in 1993. It became her escape from a violent childhood and the magical ground that changed her life.

When I look out my kitchen window, I see a horseshoe of snow-covered peaks, all of them higher than 12,000 feet. I see my old barn—old enough to have started to lean a little—and the homesteaders’ cabin, which has so much space between the logs now that the mice don’t even have to duck to crawl through.


When alpinist and photographer Cory Richards dug himself out of an avalanche in 2011, he emerged alive but scarred—an ascendant star in a community that tends to shun the very idea that trauma can have lasting effects. As his profile climbed ever higher, his career and personal life imploded. Six years later, one of the world’s best artist-adventurers comes clean about the panic attacks, PTSD, and alcohol abuse that nearly killed him.

As soon as Cory Richards realized that he had survived the avalanche, he turned his camera on. It was February 2, 2011, and Richards had just summited 26,360-foot Gasherbrum II—the 13th-tallest peak in the world.


Was it the time travelers, the jaguar people, or the song from Pocahontas? All I know is that, as my exploration of psychedelics grew from a few camp-out mushrooms to full-on ayahuasca ceremonies, I felt better than I ever had in my life.

“Are you feeling the plants?” Pluma Blanco whispered. It was nearly midnight, in the darkened great room of a mansion in a nice neighborhood overlooking San Francisco. I was kneeling behind a makeshift altar arrayed with objects of spiritual significance set out by the 20 or so other houseguests lying prone on blankets and camping pads on the floor.

No, Bike Saddles Won’t Destroy Your Sex Life

It’s time to kill the surprisingly prevalent myth that cycling causes sexual dysfunction

The humble bicycle is the most popular vehicle on the planet. Despite this, Americans remain deeply uncomfortable with it. We need lots of special equipment before we'll consider straddling a bike, and even when we commute, we dress up in so much safety gear it's as if we’re cleaning up a chemical spill.

Yet the nadir in our relationship with the bicycle came when we convinced ourselves that riding one caused sexual dysfunction.

Indeed, many people still subscribe to this idea, and therefore find bicycles—and more specifically, bicycle saddles—daunting. It's hard to say when all this started (Hippocrates linked impotence to horseback riding), but the pied piper of perineal panic in cycling was Irwin Goldstein, a urology professor at the Boston University School of Medicine. In layperson's terms, Goldsten claimed that cycling lays waste to the crotch, and in 1997 he declared: “Men should never ride bicycles. Riding should be banned and outlawed. It's the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.” This also extended to women. Goldstein cited the example of a cyclist who endured “a neuropathy where she cannot send information from her clitoris to her brain.”

In a culture already afraid of the bicycle, the idea took hold, and what followed were countless articles (forwarded to countless cyclists by countless concerned relatives) about how cycling’s the worst thing you can do to your reproductive organs short of putting them in the microwave. “Even a young man may lose the ability to achieve an erection,” warned WebMD, citing Goldstein. “Your bike is destroying your penis. Unless you are a woman. In which case it's destroying your vagina,” declared Jalopnik in an article called “Five Seats to Save Your Penis From Your Bike.” “Impotence warning hits Bike Week,” cried the BBC.

Subsequent studies have (not shockingly!) refuted these claims. Most recently, a study published in the Journal of Urology found that “neither recreational nor intense cycling appear to have a negative impact on men’s sexual and urinary function.”

This is vindicating. People have managed to ride bikes, copulate, and reproduce since the late 19th century. You probably know some. As a longtime cyclist, I've always considered the whole sexual dysfunction thing to be part of a vast anti-bike conspiracy. After all, if your goal is to scare people away from bikes, what better way to do so than convince them that cycling will destroy their sex lives? 

Meanwhile, years of fear mongering have taken their toll. It’s resulted in a bumper crop of anatomical saddle designs ranging from the legitimately comfy to the quirky to the downright absurd. Impotence mania turned into a major marketing coup. In the wake of the flaccidity scare, Specialized introduced their first Body Geometry saddles, designed by Roger Minkow. When your private parts are on the line, there’s nothing more reassuring than a saddle boasting a doctor’s signature and the aesthetics of an orthopedic shoe.

The success of the line ushered in an age of the cycling component as rehabilitation tool. Over time, other companies like Selle Italia and Selle San Marco followed suit, and the designs became more svelte. Eventually all those ostensibly pressure-relieving channels and cutouts and droopy noses became the norm. Sure, some of these features may help, but others are the equivalent of cigarette filters: they seem like they should be doing something, but they’re really not addressing the underlying problem.

Today you can purchase all manner of noseless-ass pedestals. Some look like toilet seats, others like horseshoe crabs, and still others like something you might sit on so that a doctor can administer an internal exam.

None of this is to dismiss the very real problem of saddle discomfort, nor is it to imply that a saddle design isn’t legitimate simply because it looks funny. Every cyclist is different, and therefore every rider is going to prefer a certain saddle over another. Moreover, different riding styles demand different saddle shapes. And yes, depending on your undercarriage, you may even need a saddle that looks like the headrest from a Kia Sorento. Comfort is the bottom line.

At the same time, saddle discomfort is almost always the result of one of two things:

  1. Improper setup.
  2. Rider delusion.

In the case of the former, the fix may be as simple as tweaking your position on the bike. The latter is a bit more complicated. It could be that you expect too much out of your bike, or that you insist on riding a style of bike that is completely wrong for you. Even a perfectly dialed bike will cause discomfort if you don’t shift your position after awhile, and if you’re thinking of putting a noseless saddle on your carbon road bike in the pursuit of unattainable chaise lounge comfort, well, maybe what you really need is a recumbent.  

In any case, given our relationship with bicycles, it’s no surprise that our fear of saddles grew to full-blown conspiracy theory. Now it’s time to put all that to rest and truly get comfortable.

The Best Father's Day Gifts Money Can't Buy

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Professional climber Matt Wilder suggests doing some homework to find a climbing area where you can set up two routes with top ropes right next to each other. It's easy to climb together, but having the chance to communicate during the climb is the real treat. You'll need to do the research to find the right spot as well as enlist the help of a couple of friends to belay, but we think this decidedly unique perspective on the climb and the bonding factor are well worth the work.


Full-on birding isn't for everyone, but a taste of the pastime makes an excellent introduction to natural history. If dad isn't a birder, pick a bird before heading out, choose a spot to look for it, and place a wager on who sees it first. Do your research and make sure it will be a sweetheart, but hedge your bets by picking a bird you have a good chance of finding. Binoculars are key. As an introductory pair, we suggest the 8X42 Nikon Monarchs.


Professional ultra-distance runner Timothy Olsen's would like to get lost somewhere in the woods, set up a base camp to hike out of and watch his 10-month old son Tristan take it all in. "Kids can sit there and play with a rock for hours. It is inspiring to see that," Olsen says.

You don't have to have a young child to enjoy the simplicity of an impromptu camp out. Let people know you are heading into the wilderness, pack your ideal car-camping or backpacking kit, go somewhere new, and check out. You don't have to need to make a big expedition out of the trip—just end up somewhere new. Ideally get completely off the grid, but wherever you go, put away your cell phones.


First off, you know your dad will be proud. If you want to get outside, go maintain a trail together. Both your local outdoor retailer and nearest REI will have a bulletin board with suggestions. Totally lost on where to start? Idealist.org has over 15,000 volunteering opportunities for you to peruse. Volunteering takes the pressure off of the day being all about you or your father and will give you plenty to talk about.


Boulder, Colorado, based polar explorer Eric Larsen's father, Andy, lives in Wisconsin, and the two will not be able to see each other this Father's Day. Both are photographers so they plan to shoot focusing on shapes and compare their pictures online this Father's day. If you aren't into photography, just translate Larsen's plan to whatever creative pursuit you and your father share.


Obviously, plan the difficulty of the ride around your dad's health, age, and badass factor. Just make sure the ride you choose breaks boundaries. You can also sign up for a ride like the Copper Triangle which is in August and tough, but doable with training. While catching up with your father over beers is nice, catching up to him on Vail Pass is better. And besides, you can talk about the climb over beers afterward.


Rent a raft, get on some mellow whitewater, wear a lifejacket, and figure out how to navigate it together—just the two of you. It's going to force you to work together. Will Volpert, owner of Indigo Creek Outfitters and Class V R2er, suggests seeking out a 12 foot raft, sitting in the center of the outside tube of the boat, and—most importantly—communicating.

"You should definitely agree on a form of communication before you push off," Volpert says. Tandem inflatable kayaks have a relatively smaller learning curve, but you can't fit nearly as much beer in them.


"If you buy a kit and assemble it, it's not like you are starting from ground zero," says Meiser Fly Rods production manager, Keith Lyons. "The cool part is that you do feel like you are." Researching classes at local fly fishing shops is a good place to start.

If you want to go full DIY go to anglersworkshop.com where you can find all of the materials you need as well as instruction books like Fly Rod Building Made Easy. Lyons says it will take a first-timer eight to 10 hours to build a rod, but don't be overwhelmed—you only need about six different materials.


Wine, beer, or liquor—whatever your dad is into take him on a tour. If you are lucky enough to live in Portland, Oregon, we suggest Brewcycle where you can actually drink and bike safely. Alcohol is something you can debate on a tangible as well as philosophical level—all with the benefit of a few drinks as a social lubricant.


We suggest this with a caveat: give yourself plenty of time to learn. "Learning how to tie a fly well is actually ridiculously hard," says Jefferson Flywater Guide Service owner Ryan Allred. Tying flies is a tactile skill so we suggest you take a class rather than try to teach yourself from a book. When you have learned down, or if you're already an experienced fly tier, we suggest challenging your father to tie four flies then create a fishing derby with them on Father's Day.

Altitude Will F&*K You Up—Unless You Follow These Steps

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Molly Sheridan felt like she was breathing through a straw and her veins were full of lead. It was the inaugural La Ultra—a 137-mile race along an improbably high Himalayan summer road through Pakistan, China, and India.

Coming from Las Vegas, Nevada (elevation: 2,000 feet), Sheridan, 53 at the time, didn’t have much opportunity to acclimatize before she headed up to 17,000 feet. Despite the grueling race, she felt invincible after the fact. “After I finished that event, I felt like there was nothing on the planet I couldn’t do, because it’s such a huge, huge mental game.” That said, Sheridan would tell you that she could’ve prepped a little differently to abate the suffering.

No matter your goals, the best way to get used to altitude is, of course, to be at altitude. But there are three main steps you can take ahead of time to make the adjustment a little less miserable, according to Greg McMillan, a running coach in Flagstaff, Arizona, who has been training athletes at altitude for nearly 20 years.

High altitude is generally considered to be anywhere from 8,000 to 18,000 feet. However, those coming from sea level may start feeling the effects—lightheadedness, pounding heart, GI distress, dehydration, and compromised performance, to name a few—as low as 5,000 feet.

Before you start trying to thwart the impact of high altitude, you have to understand what it’s doing to your body. Reduced air pressure at elevation allows oxygen molecules to spread out, so every breath has less oxygen compared to sea level. “When you first arrive at altitude, the body senses the reduced pressure,” McMillan says. “The kidneys communicate to the bone marrow to begin to produce more red blood cells to be able to carry more oxygen. Because the body is making more red blood cells, it also increases the volume of plasma—the non-cell part of the blood—so the blood doesn’t get too thick.” The body has to work way harder to do the most basic things—walk, digest food, think straight—until it adjusts.

If that sounds pretty awful, you’re right. Altitude effects can be uncomfortable at best and debilitating at worst. McMillan suggests the following three-step plan to keep symptoms at bay.

“You need to be as prepared as possible,” McMillan says. You want to make sure your nutritional status is good and that you’re fit going in, with your iron stores having been pumped up as much as possible. You need to be well hydrated and well prepared for the changes that may happen.”

Training techniques that increase cardiovascular capacity, like interval and hill training, can help limit the effects of altitude, as can technologies like high-altitude tents, which decrease air pressure and oxygen content while you sleep, or portable altitude simulators that filter oxygen out of the air as you breathe through them. While these can be helpful to try, just be aware that no altitude simulator can replace training at—or at least exposing yourself to—altitude.

McMillan recommends finding a way to spend a night or two as high as possible and at least giving your body and mind a chance to experience what the race or trip holds in store. He also recommends arriving as early as your schedule allows to give yourself a chance to ease into the elevation.

If you don’t have the luxury of time before, say, a high-altitude race, McMillan suggests flying in as close as possible to the race start to get the high exertion out of the way before the body fully registers the change. Two to three days before the race is an ideal window of adjustment time, he says.

“You have to know that you are going to suffer more mentally,”McMillan says. “You need to get mentally prepared that it’s going to be harder.”

For sea-level-bound athletes, one way to mimic the impact of altitude is to train in hot conditions, McMillan says. In extreme heat, the body undergoes a similar plasma-building process—though it doesn’t add any red blood cells.

“It's not just the plasma volume changes that are beneficial. It’s the suffering—you know, if you’re running in hot and humid conditions, you begin to get a sense for increased perception of effort at the same pace,” he says.

“You should accept moving at a different pace than you would at sea level,” McMillan says. “If you’re going to train at elevation for a while before toeing the start, don’t train too hard too soon. You don’t have to push too hard in the beginning. If you ease into things, then you can slowly begin to return to normal.”

McMillan adds, “It takes about five to seven days before the body gets over its initial shock of being at altitude and does some of those fluid shifts.” He prescribes his athletes a week of very gentle training before diving into tough workouts. It often takes elite runners around a month to get back to their sea-level training load.

Testing Wild Country's Revo Belay Device

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“Ready to lower!” I yelled. As I descended from the anchor, my belayer dropped me faster and faster until I was free-falling. I expected—or hoped—the rope would go taut, but the ground came first.

My belayer was using a common tube-style belay device (one with no assisted braking). When he went to lower me, he had the brake strand of the rope flipped over the side of the device instead of properly through its front, friction-adding groove.The rope burned his hands, he instinctively let go, and I hit the deck from 40 feet up.

Luckily, I walked away with only sore legs and an achy back, but inadequate belays have caused 292 reported accidents in the United States between 1951 and 2015, across all experience levels, according to the annual Accidents in North American Climbing report. The number of unreported accidents (mine included) is likely much higher.

Most belay accidents are caused by human error and are easily preventable. With that in mind, Wild Country released an innovative belay device, the Revo ($145), which was designed to prevent the most common belay mistakes. The Revo is the first bidirectional belay device with a true auto-locking mechanism. I tested the Revo to see if it holds up to its claim as the “safest belay device on the market.”

The Revo is essentially a tube-style belay device, but with an automatic backup similar to what you’d find on an assisted-braking belay device. While assisted-braking devices shy away from the term “auto-locking”—they use a camming mechanism or a carabiner and pinch point to add increasing friction to the rope, hence the name “assisted braking”—the Revo actually locks.

A grooved wheel sits within an aluminum housing, similar to a pulley, with two stainless-steel “jaws,” or grooved channels, on top of the device at the climber and brake sides of the rope. But this is no normal pulley. The grooved inner wheel the rope sits on and moves along as you take in and feed out slack (an “inertia reel,” as Wild Country calls it) locks at a speed of 13.1 feet per second—similar to the way a car’s seatbelt functions.

When the reel locks, the rope jams into its tapered grooves. At the same time, the brake-hand side of the stainless-steel jaws pops up. This increases the friction on the rope, preventing it from moving through the device and the climber from plummeting to the ground.

It’s not instant, however. By the time the falling climber reaches triggering speed and the inertia wheel activates and grips the rope (within one revolution of the reel), up to 3.6 feet of rope can pass through the device—on top of the distance of a leader fall and rope stretch. That’s potential for a pretty big whip—or even decking.

That said, a belayer using proper technique will never trigger the locking mechanism—it serves purely as a backup. You’d need to mess up for it to kick in, like if you let go of the brake strand during a fall or while lowering. The Revo’s braking mechanism also cannot be overridden like it can on other assisted-braking belay devices. The Revo is as foolproof as a belay device can get. To unlock the device, all a belayer must do is bring the rope back to the proper locked-off brake position, with the brake strand of the rope pulled down through the jaw’s groove. The brake strand pushes the jaw back down and resets the device.

While the Revo’s inner workings may seem complex, using it is intuitive and requires the same belay technique as a standard tube-style device, such as an ATC.

Loading the Device

Threading the Revo is easy enough. A small lever on one side of its body unlocks and allows the housing to swivel open from 12:00 to 2:00. You can then thread a bight of rope around the wheel inside and up through the jaws. The Revo handles a wide range of rope diameters, from 8.5 to 11 millimeters (the same as Petzl’s popular assisted-braking GriGri+).

A huge safety perk is that you cannot load the device backwards. It works in either direction—something no other assisted-braking belay device does.

Belaying

The Revo is the smoothest belay device I’ve tested, and I’ve tested a hell of a lot of belay devices over the years in my previous life as an editor at Rock and Ice. Its inertia reel eliminates friction within the device and makes the task of giving and taking slack effortless. You can feel the difference when top-rope belaying, but lead belaying is where the Revo really shines.

Unlike most assisted-braking belay devices, the Revo has no camming mechanism that needs to be suppressed to feed out slack. As a belayer, that means both hands never leave the rope and you never have to fiddle with the device itself. This eliminates the possibility of overriding the braking mechanism and dropping a climber—a common cause of accidents with other assisted-braking belay devices.

With the inertia reel, I expected it would be easy to short-rope the climber, as in accidentally triggering the locking mechanism when attempting to feed out slack quickly. But in testing the device, I could yard out a full armload of slack with no problem. I had to try to lock the device. The inertia reel only kicks in well above the speed you feed out slack, even when the climber’s reaching for a quick and panicked clip.

Catching falls is no different than with a tube-style device, with the added safety that if you mess up, the inertia wheel’s got your back. As mentioned earlier, the auto-locking mechanism serves purely as a backup and does not provide any belay assistance, like the camming action of a GriGri. It’s all or nothing.

Unfortunately, the Revo cannot be locked manually when the climber is weighting the rope. This isn’t ideal for belay slaves who spend hours at attention while their partners work a project and milk every hanging rest. The belayer must keep a tight grip on the rope the entire time, like when using a tube-style device, as opposed to an assisted-braking belay device that, while not completely hands-free, does the lion’s share of the work. Using an assisted-braking belay device, a belayer can relax his grip and free a hand to fix a harness wedgie or to grab a snack.

Lowering

There is no handle or lever on the Revo for lowering like there is on something like a GriGri. You lower a climber just as you would with a tube-style device by keeping both hands on the brake strand of the rope, below the device, and controlling the rope’s speed as you let it feed through the device. This eliminates yet another avenue to common belay accidents, such as a belayer accidently cranking down on a device’s lowering lever, fully releasing the camming action, and dropping the climber. Last year, Petzl introduced a “panic-proof” lever on GriGri+ to mitigate this issue; Wild Country ditched the lever altogether.

Or, in the case of my accident, the belayer dropped me by letting go of the brake strand.

To test the Revo’s auto-locking mechanism in this scenario, I simply let go of the brake strand as well (with a backup knot, of course). The inertia wheel quickly kicked in and arrested the fall as advertised. The climber fell three to four feet before the device caught, which is not ideal had there been a ledge below, but mind you, I had to already “mess up” to trigger the automatic backup—and a fall of a few feet is much better than a ground fall.

Rappelling

As with the GriGri, the Revo can only be used for a single-rope rappel, just using the same technique as a tube-style device. The caveat, however, is that high on a rappel, the weight of the dead rope can be enough to disengage the Revo’s jaw had the locking mechanism been triggered. This nullifies the automatic backup.

If you happened to let go of the brake strand on rappel, for whatever reason, you probably wouldn’t hit the ground, since the device would likely catch lower down, but you could come in hot to a ledge.

Limitations

While the Revo functions like a tube-style belay device in many ways, it does have a few limitations beyond rappelling. First, the device can only be used with a single rope, so one cannot belay with a twin or double rope, a common practice on long or wandering trad, alpine, and ice routes.

Second, the device cannot be used to belay from above, directly off an anchor like an auto-block belay device or GriGri can on multipitch and top-belay climbs. To belay from above with the Revo, one must belay off his or her harness and redirect the climber’s side of the rope through a carabiner above.

Finally, the device’s complicated mechanics are susceptible to freezing—the device can jam with snow or ice—so it’s not a good choice for winter climbing.

Overall, the Revo’s complexity simplifies belaying. While one could argue that all belay devices are equally as safe when used properly, the Revo makes it nearly impossible to mess up—and that makes it the safest belay device on the market.

But like all specialized gear, the Revo excels in a limited range of use. On multipitch, ice, or alpine routes and for long project sessions, the Revo’s limitations begin to outweigh its benefits—and it’s heavy, at 9.7 ounces. I’d stick to the lighter (3.1 ounces) and more versatile ATC-Guide for ice, alpine, and multipitch routes, and the GriGri will remain my weapon of choice for long project sessions. For single-pitch routes, whether at the climbing gym or crag, however, nothing can match the Revo.

While the Revo is intended for beginner and expert climbers, newer climbers will get the most out of it. The Revo enforces proper belay technique with the added safety of the automatic backup. Experienced climbers and guides who climb frequently with new climbers will also enjoy the added peace of mind that comes with the backup. In either case, the Revo eliminates pathways to common belay mistakes and minimizes the chances of an accident.

The everyday climber, those who enjoy casual days at the crag, shouldn’t feel left out either. The Revo is so smooth to belay with that you can forget about belayer’s arm and conserve strength for sending. Sure, it’s a bit heavy, bulky, and expensive, but the Revo is the most foolproof belay device available.

If my belayer had been using a Revo that day, he wouldn’t have dropped me.

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