On Being a Seasonal Worker in a Mountain Town

Goiyo Perez manages the Bavarian, an iconic German restaurant and bar at the base of New Mexico’s Taos Ski Valley

Name: Goiyo Perez
Job: Bar manager, the Bavarian
Home Base: Taos, New Mexico
Age: 40
Education: Berklee College of Music in Boston, Massachusetts

Goiyo Perez never imagined he’d be running a German beer hall perched at 10,200 feet in the mountains of New Mexico. The Bay Area native dreamed of becoming a musician. He was drawn to Taos after road-tripping through the Four Corners. “It seemed like the perfect place to drawing inspiration for my music,” he says. “The nickname Land of Enchantment really rings true.”

In 2013, Perez and his girlfriend took a leap of faith and moved. They opened a small gallery but quickly felt the effects of living in a seasonal town. “After the first winter, I had to sell some of my instruments to make ends meet,” he says. “I knew I needed a job to supplement the shop in winter.” Perez applied for a job at the Bavarian, a beloved après spot at the base of Lift Four at Taos Ski Valley. Perez was hired as a bartender, but his willingness to do inventory and help where it was needed quickly led to a management position. “It’s a great gig. We have beers you won’t find outside of Germany, and the staff is like one big family,” he says. “You hustle, but this job gives me the stability to have time to write music and live in this beautiful place.”

(Courtesy Goiyo Perez)

On His Hours: “A typical shift is eight or nine hours nonstop, and if you do a double in the winter, that can easily be a 14-hour day. Nobody sits down, and at 10,000 feet of elevation, your body feels this quite dramatically. Despite what people think, we don’t get ski breaks. During the holidays, it’s not unusual to work eight ten-hour days in a row. There’s a constant hustle, and if I’m doing my job right, guests don’t see that.”

On His Service Industry Background: “I had managed cafés and worked in restaurants. Accounting and computer skills are useful, but success in the service industry really comes down to how well you can communicate with your staff and your customers. Not everyone can maintain a calm disposition while they’re trying to do a hundred things at once. You need to be able to go to your Zen place when things get crazy, and they do get crazy.”

On His Favorite Daily Ritual: “The group huddle at the start of the day. The staff sits at a big round table, drinks coffee while rolling silverware, and discusses everything that is wonderfully conceivable under the sun.”

On What He Values Most in the People He Works With: “Everyone I work with is super hardworking and they just persevere. Taos has a depressed economy in the sense that there is really no other industry than tourism. It’s one of those places that you have to work hard if you want to live here. We call it the Taos shuffle—people moving around working multiple jobs.”

On His Biggest Pet Peeve: “Self-absorption. When people are at a bar or restaurant, and they can tell the staff is in the weeds, and yet they can’t look beyond themselves to interact with the staff with a bit of compassion.”

On the Most Important Piece of Gear He Owns: “People in the service industry always have problems with their feet. You’re beating on them constantly. I wear Chrome Industries 503 combat boots with inserts. They’re comfortable but also tough enough to stand up to the brick floor in the dining room and the snow, ice, and rain.”

On His Sleep Routine: “In the winter season, a good night would be six to seven hours if I’m able to go straight to bed upon arriving at home. By the time I make my way down the mountain and into my front door in the winter season, it’s usually sometime between midnight and 1:00 a.m. I wake up around 7:00 a.m. so I can leave the house by 9:00 a.m. If it snows overnight, I have to leave around 8:00 a.m.”

On How He Recharges: “When I get home, I sit on my couch and strum my guitar to decompress.”

On His Favorite Guilty Pleasure: “Pizza, extra sauce, good scotch, good tequila, good cigars.”

On the Most Recent Habit He’s Adopted: “A morning practice which involves doing qigong, followed by a short meditation session, followed by singing two or three tunes that I’m working on, while drinking amounts of coffee that I’d rather not disclose.”

On How He Achieves Work-Life Balance: “Living in a place with a seasonal economy makes for a great deal of imbalance. The term ‘get it while you can’ becomes an underlying driving force that pushes you beyond normal healthy thresholds. This is just a fact, and it’s how you survive. In the face of this, I try to adopt a mindset that puts my own health and balance first, before financial obligation or any obligation. I’ve witnessed co-workers have breakdowns from overcommitting.”

On His Perfect Day: “The idea of a perfect day would mean that every other day of my life falls short of some measure or is in some way incomplete. I think a good day would be one where I can feel truly present in the moment all the way through.”

Battle of the Lightweight Storm Shells

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Remember the rain and wind shells of yore? Stiff and a little crinkly, with Velcro cuffs and micro-fleece chin guards? We hardly can. Performance apparel has evolved over the past decade, and jackets are lighter, thinner, and more streamlined than ever.

In fact, apparel makers have grown so obsessed with shaving weight that a profusion of technical shells have appeared weighing less than a smartphone, packing small enough to fit in your back pocket, and designed to make you feel like you’re wearing nothing at all.

Of course, you might reasonably wonder how these über-pared-down jackets manage to stand out from one another, and how light they can go before they start to lose functionality. We rounded up a few to find out.


This shell is so freakishly thin that the cuffs and bottom hem are pretty much all you notice. It’s made from a single layer of DWR-treated, ten-denier ripstop nylon—enough to block wind and repel light precipitation—and folds into an arm pocket roughly the size and shape of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich (though it’s much lighter: just 2.8 ounces for the men’s version).

As with most featherweight apparel, the Flight RKT makes some compromises. There are no adjustment cords, and the fabric is more snag-prone than some other shells in the same category. But if you’re going fast and light for long distances, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more lightweight option. 

The North Face bills the Flight RKT as a running shell, and the jacket performs well in high-output situations that call for protection without the encumbrance of layers. Given how thin it is, we'd be wary of taking it on scrambling missions where we know we'll be dragging our gear over rock.

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The Ghost Lite is similar to the Flight RKT—it’s made from DWR-coated nylon and designed primarily for running—but it’s a bit more built up. The men’s version is 3.1 ounces, and it’s longer and baggier. The loose fit is a boon if you want to wear your shell over lots of layers, but can also impede movement. That’s partially alleviated by the cinched hem and a Velcro tab to fold away the hood.

The 15-denier ripstop nylon has a soft, buttery feel, and it’s substantial enough to add confidence in brambles and on abrasive rock. When folded into its chest pocket, the Ghost Lite is a tad bigger than the North Face jacket; it’s also slightly easier to zip up, since the zipper falls on the side of the pouch instead of across the top. The slightly longer fit also makes this jacket a great trail-to-town crossover piece; it’ll keep you warm and relatively dry in the hills but won’t look (as) out of place in a coffee shop or bar.

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The Houdini is sleek and trim, hitting right at the hip, without excess fabric. But at 3.6 ounces in the men’s version, it’s the heaviest jacket here. That’s because it doesn’t skimp on features or durability. In addition to a chest pocket, it has a drawcord at the waist and in the hood, and the fabric is 15-denier nylon, the same as the Ghost Lite. 

The papery quality of the Houdini offers superior next-to-skin comfort; you can wear it over a short-sleeve shirt without that clammy shell sensation against your arms. It also makes the jacket a little more rugged than the others we looked at. The Houdini is billed as a trail-running shell, but we wouldn’t think twice taking it climbing or scrambling.

Buy now


The lightweight, DWR-treated wind shell deserves a place in your pack. It’s the perfect layer for windy summits, drizzly mornings, and other occasions when a thick fleece or full-on waterproof piece would be overkill, and it's great insurance against unexpected storms. It won’t keep you from getting soaked in a downpour, but the DWR coating goes further than you’d expect.

That said, there's no need to shell out extra cash just to save a few tenths of an ounce. All of the shells in this review function the same, differing only in price. They weigh within an ounce of one another, they're made with similar fabrics and DWR finishes, and they have similar features. If you're tackling fast and light missions or long hauls in high-alpine terrain, it's worth the added expense to have the absolute lightest, most packable gear. But the average athlete could be served just as well with a slightly heavier, less expensive option. Buy the one that fits best, and you can't go wrong.

Kami Rita Summits Everest for 22nd Time

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At 8:30 a.m. on May 16, Kami Rita Sherpa, 48, reached the 29,035-foot summit of Mount Everest for the 22nd time—more than any other person living or dead. Kami Rita arrived at that familiar patch of snow on the summit plateau leading a group of clients on behalf of Kathmandu-based Seven Summits Trek. He had previously shared the seven-year-old record of 21 summits with Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa, both of whom have since retired from climbing.

Kami Rita has been working and climbing on Everest and other 8,000-meter peaks for the past 26 years. He spent the majority of those years with Seattle-based Alpine Ascents International (AAI), where his elder brother, Lakpa Rita Sherpa (who has 17 Everest summits himself), has been employed since the early 1990s. With this season’s Everest summit, Kami Rita has summited 8,000-meter peaks a total of 33 times, including ascents of Cho Oyu (eight summits), K2, Manaslu, and Lhotse. (Phurba Tashi holds the 8,000-meter record with 35 summits.)

Lakpa and Kami, along with their six sisters, grew up in Thame, a village of about 45 stone houses downvalley from Everest. The family shared a small one-room house, with the yaks and other animals sleeping downstairs. Thame is a climbing village, and a significant portion of the men make their living in the Himalayas. Many famous climbing Sherpas hail from the area, including Tenzing Norgay, who made the first ascent of Everest, alongside Sir Edmund Hillary, in 1953. Even Kami’s father, now in his eightiesand earninga living with his herd of yaks, worked as a mountain guide until 1992.

Lakpa Rita attended school in Kumjung, four hours away by foot. From the schoolhouse, he could see the top of Everest and soon decided that he wanted to climb it. Kami Rita, however, wasn’t interested in school––or climbing. As a kid he wanted to be a monk. When he was 16, he attended the Thame Dechen Chokhorling monastery, which is perched on a cliff above the village. He studied their for four years but, according to his brother, didn’t like the lifestyle. The monastery offered sweeping views of the snow-covered Himalayan giants, and Kami Rita decided to seek employment in the mountains instead.

In 1992, Lakpa Rita was working his first season as a sirdar, or head Sherpa, for AAI. “I said to Kami, come with me and work as a cook boy,”Lakpa Rita told me in 2015. (Outside could not reach Kami Rita for comment, as he was still on the mountain.) As a sirdar,Lakpa Rita routinely hired a few dozen men from the valley to work on Everest, and Kami Rita spent that first season assisting the Base Camp cook.

“Then he started working as a climbing Sherpa and became pretty strong,” says Lakpa Rita, who’s now 51 and living in Seattle. “Today he has more summits than me.” Kami Rita summited Everest for the first time in spring 1994, when he was 24 years old. He’s been on the mountain almost every year since, making up for missed seasons by completing double summits in 2009, 2010, and 2013. According to Lakpa Rita, he worked as a Sherpa from 1993 to 2000 and as a sirdar from 2001 to 2017. All but one of his 22 Everest summits have been via the South Col route; in 2016, he reached the summit via the north side, accessed from Tibet.

The brothers were both on the mountain working for AAI during the 2014 avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall, which killed 16 Sherpas as they carried loads to Camp I. Among the first on the scene, Lakpa Rita and Kami Rita spent hours digging out the bodies of their colleagues. Five of the dead Sherpas worked for AAI; one of them was the brothers’ uncle. And Kami Rita was on the mountain in 2015, when an earthquake triggered an avalanche that killed 19 people at Base Camp; the quake also caused major damage in Thame.

The 2018 season was Kami Rita’s first guiding for Seven Summits. The Nepalese outfitter is popular for the low price of its summit expedition—roughly $30,000, although it also offers a $130,000 luxury package that includes 12 bottles of oxygen and a helicopter flight to a hotel in Kathmandu, to rest before the summit push. According to Outside correspondent Alan Arnette, the Seven Summits camp was the largest on Everest’s Nepal side this year, with some 200 people, including support staff.

Kami Rita lives with his wife, Lakpa Jangmu, and two children in Kathmandu. He earns a comfortable living, bringing home about $10,000 at the end of the climbing season, according to the Associated Press, in a country with an average annual income of $700. But like his brother, he’s making sure his children get an education, so they aren't forced to work a dangerous job in the mountains.

Kami Rita told the Associated Press that he wanted to set the Everest summit record for himself, his family, and the Sherpa people. He also said that he has no plans to stop climbing and will return to the mountain every spring.

For Strong Women Who Want to Get Down in the Bedroom

Couples can get dirty together in many ways

Welcome to Tough Love. Every other week, we’re answering your questions about dating, breakups, and everything in between. Our advice giver is Blair Braverman, dogsled racer and author of Welcome to the Goddamn Ice Cube. Have a question of your own? Write to us at [email protected].


I grew up a tomboy, loving all things outdoors, and this has carried into my adult life. My fiancé and I have enjoyed some incredible adventures together—mountain biking and camping the entire 100-mile White Rim in Utah, backpacking Havasupai in Arizona, backpacking the green forests of Pennsylvania. I enjoy being an adventurous, dirty, low-maintenance girl, but I’m a woman, after all. I need to feel sexy sometimes, and I need him to really see that side of me, but he’s clueless. He is so respectful and kind when it comes to our love life, but I need to be pursued, ravaged, pinned up against a wall, thrown around in the bedroom. I need him to zone out of “us” once in a while and just be so into the moment that he wants to go Christian Grey on me.

Is this my doing, because my usual idea of a date is having him give me a snowboard lesson or going on a mountain bike ride? I really enjoy putting on lip stain and dressing sexy every once in a while, but we rarely find ourselves with an occasion for this other than attending a wedding or Christmas party. I dress up for work every so often and get the occasional “You look nice today,” but I’m really sometimes hoping for an “I can’t wait to get you home and out of those clothes.” How do I help him to see me as a feminine woman who he wants to pounce on and not just his down-to-earth fiancée? I don’t know how to talk to him about this without making him feel like he’s doing something wrong.

Congrats on your engagement! It sounds like you’ve found a great partner-in-adventure. It also sounds like you’re in a long-term relationship, which naturally involves some ups and downs in your sex life—and, hopefully, plenty of opportunities for your connection to evolve along the way.

I think your tomboy dynamic is a red herring, as it’s based in the old-school perceived conflict between femininity and athleticism (and don’t get me started on the sexual association between traditional femininity and submission). But even false dichotomies feel real when they shape our behavior, and your fiancé might worry that if he treats you as a “feminine woman,” he’ll be undermining your power and athleticism. The good news is he’s not—even if it takes an explicit conversation for him to consciously realize it. Know how to break that dichotomy down further? Embrace all sides of yourself. Go backpacking one week. Dress in heels the next. Carry lip tint in your pocket for stopping by the bar after a climbing session. Make your own opportunities to dress up, whether you’re going out dancing, to a fancy dinner, or anywhere you’ll stay clean enough to justify busting out a red silk dress. Or, hell, just go ahead and get your red dress dirty.

Christian Grey is a creep, and I’m glad to hear that your fiancé isn’t naturally inclined toward Grey’s controlling and stalker-like tendencies, but he’s also a fantasy figure and a useful tool for illustrating your desires. “Hey,” you can say on some unscheduled Saturday afternoon. “Will you watch 50 Shades of Grey with me? I think it’d be hot to watch it together.” If he says yes, here’s a chance to point out different scenes or interactions that turn you on. If he declines, consider it a seed you’ve planted for later, when you’re both in the right mood.

It sounds to me like your fiancé is considerate and respectful—vital qualities in a life partner—but might need some nudging to know that consensual disrespect, so to speak, can be another form of respect, one that prioritizes knowing your partner’s individual tastes over general etiquette. And it can be hard for anyone to hear suggestions for their sex life without taking them as a critique. The trick, in this case, is to frame your desires as an expansion of your repertoire rather than a replacement, and a chance to celebrate the moments when you’ve already nodded toward power play in the bedroom. Can you think of a time when your fiancé was a bit more aggressive in bed, even in a single gesture, a single kiss? Few people have ever been sad to hear their lover whisper in their ear, “I can’t stop thinking about when you…”

Now, go have fun—fun for both of you. As you talk more about what turns you on, your fiancé might even surprise you with some surprising desires of his own. And off you go on another joint adventure.


My husband and I have finally achieved our dream of owning land in the country. Unfortunately, building a house is going to be a way more expensive and involved project then we imagined. While we gather funds and make plans, we have decided to make the best campsite ever. I feel that the first thing we need to do is dig an outhouse. We could build one quickly and cheaply, and I’ve always appreciated a well-maintained outhouse. If you don’t throw paper or trash in them, they seem to compost quickly and don’t smell. They offer a quaint comfort and can contribute atmosphere to the land. Even once we build our home, it would be great for camping guests and our inevitably muddy kids. There’s something healthy about taking your business outdoors.

My husband is dead set against the idea of creating a “craphole” on our land. He thinks the idea is disgusting and wants nothing to do with it. He would rather invest the time it takes to build an outhouse into creating a real bathroom (which may take months to even get close to doing). He is OK with buying a plastic outhouse that can be cleaned out. I think that idea is expensive and disgusting. Who wants to store a plastic closet full of uncomposting feces floating in chemicals until we can afford to empty it? Plastic outhouses just look trashy and depressing. There’s no way around it.

I am amazed at what an issue this has become. Both of us are stuck on insisting our opinions are correct and the end-all decision. Am I being irrational? Is he? How can we compromise? (And please don’t suggest composting toilets. They are expensive and way too easy to mess up. I’ve been traumatized by dealing with composting gone wrong.)

Thanks for your help.

Your fan, Constipated Love

I hate to break it to your husband, but whether or not you build an outhouse, your land is already a craphole for the hundreds of thousands of nonhuman organisms inhabiting it. Why not embrace that while offering guests and family alike a bit of privacy to do their business? A home-built outhouse—I recommended a deep hole and a cup of lime powder every now and then—is a pleasant solution. A commercial Porta-Potty, on the other hand, is an uninviting, unnatural plastic hotbox containing a blue lagoon of chemicals and involving an often-faulty pumping system with a tiny blenderlike contraption that’s meant to whisk the chunkier sewage into soup but is apt to clog at inopportune moments and require you to take it apart, piece by piece, to dislodge whatever chunk has stopped the blade. Trust me: One of my old guiding jobs involved pumping plastic outhouses by hand. You don’t want to go down that road.

Weathering Winter in an Airstream

Lessons in preparing for and getting through the season

You know those people who say they savor the season changes and the quiet hunkering down of the dark months? I’m not one of them.

I grew up on a high-desert plateau in Nigeria only a few degrees north of the equator, where the weather was as temperate as San Diego and my blood must have permanently warmed a few degrees. Don’t get me wrong: I love a good powder day and will never turn down a fat bike ride in the snow. But the shift from autumn to winter, with dark coming before I’ve finished my work day and my body not yet adjusted to the cold, makes me grumpy. On a ride a few weeks ago, I misestimated how quickly night would fall, as I tend to do this time of year, and ended up pawing my way back to the trailhead in the dark with frozen stumps for appendages. “Bah, winter,” I groused that night. Jen, my wife, who likes the cold about as much as I do but adapts to everything quicker, clucked at me.

A cold snap hit a few days later, and in 24 hours, daytime temps plummeted from unseasonable mid-60s to barely breaking 20. We felt a mark of pride this year for being prepared. Last winter, our first in Artemis the Airstream, an autumn Arctic snap caught us out with frozen pipes. A word of advice: Read your manuals and make preparations well in advance of the season changes. This year, we had the compressor standing by and Artemis blasted dry before the temperatures dropped.

It’s gratifying to feel like you take lessons from the road, and another thing we’ve learned is that we’re not really cold-weather campers. Artemis is tolerable below freezing, especially if we forgo the backcountry and visit sites with electric. But that tests our endurance for rowhome-style RV parks and hunkering down in a small space. Running her dry is also more hassle, as dishes, bathing, and all bathroom duties are either in the frigid woods or campground facilities. So even as we winterized the trailer, we simultaneously pulled up stakes.

(JJAG Media)

I was hell-bent on getting south. “If we drive all night, we can be in Phoenix by morning,” I said as we motored out of the Sangre de Cristo mountains. As ever, Jen was the voice of moderation. “I was thinking we could stop for a few nights at the Bosque,” she said, referring to a place just a couple hours down the road.

The Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge is a patch of wetlands in central New Mexico where tens of thousands of birds come to winter. It’s an inconspicuous and unlikely place just a few miles off Interstate 25, where snow geese, mallards, Sandhill cranes, and some 400 species of migratory birds roost during the cold months or rest en route to points south. It’s such flat, nondescript country that, despite the sign on the highway for the preserve, millions of motorists must pass here, oblivious to the spectacle. It’s yet another reminder of all the wonder hidden in plain sight. We just need to take the time. Even after our first visit almost a decade ago, we too often barrel past to warmer and more obvious attractions—as I was intent on doing this year. But though I huffed and exasperated and pulled up forecasts showing polar conditions for the next week, Jen calmly eased Artemis into Bosque Birdwatchers RV Park a little after dark. As ever, I’d be glad that she made the decision.

The birds overnight on the low wetlands but fly out during the daytime to feed in the fields, so the most dramatic moments for viewing are before sunrise and after sunset, as the animals first disperse then return to their roosts. When we rolled out from Artemis in the darkness of predawn the next day, the thermometer read seven degrees and I still was cantankerous about the decision to stay. But then, as we climbed from the truck at the first pond in the refuge, I was overcome by a piercing cacophony of shrieking, honking, yowling birds like some wild, electric traffic jam. Though I couldn’t see them yet in the gloaming, thousands of snow geese and Sandhill cranes rested on the water. The clamor immediately snapped my perspective. The cold didn’t matter, nor the early morning. Not only were we fortunate enough to be here to witness something so basic and moving, but, by stopping here on our journey south, we were actually part of this primordial migration.

(JJAG Media)

Before the sun rose, the birds lifted in a frenetic billow of flapping wings and howling cries. The snow geese went first, all of them rising at once like a blizzard in reverse. So profuse were they that they darkened the dawn sky. They flitted and circled as a single, massive organism and eventually shifted to the east like a fast-moving cloud. When they’d gone, the cranes, long and lithe and graceful, began slipping away in squadrons of four and five. All the while, I stood agog and immune to the cold in my puffy, marveling at the visceral moment. By the time the first shafts of sunlight struck, the water was a sheet of empty glass broken only by a few straggling birds and the fury of the lift-off had given way to winter silence.

Though we’re no birdwatchers, we toured the refuge and relished the quiet of gazing at the creatures in the fields feeding. I was struck that the birds don’t complain about the frigid conditions or how hard the winter might be—they simply follow their instincts and get on with it. For the first time in a while, I appreciated the cold and the changing season as part of this inevitable cycle. Jen graciously never gloated or said, “I told you so.” We stayed another day to catch the morning and evening roost. Then, after vowing to stop here on our trip south every year, we fired up the trailer and flew down the highway in search of easier living.

Even if I can appreciate the shift of the seasons, at the core, I’ll always be a desert-dweller.

The Harassment Problem in Scientific Dream Jobs

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When geologist Jane Willenbring was a 22-year-old graduate student, in 1999, she got to live what should have been a geologist’s masochistic dream: working from Antarctica’s Beacon Valley, one of the places on Earth that’s most like Mars. In that otherworldly landscape, Willenbring, another graduate student, their adviser David Marchant, and Marchant’s brother camped out in temperatures as low as minus 40 degrees. There were no other options that far from the civilized McMurdo Station. So they slept cold, hiked cold, and dug cold, unearthing ancientice and volcanic ash. They were in it for the science.

Science wrote about this trip in October 2017—not because of the geochemical conclusions from the fieldwork, but instead because of the allegations that Willenbring brought forward. Seventeen years after the expedition was over, when she was senior enough that she was no longer worried it would ruin her career to do so, Willenbring accused Marchant of harassment and assault, in a location where she could do little but endure.

In a complaint filed with Boston University, Science reported, Willenbring alleges that Marchant had “repeatedly shoved her down a steep slope, pelted her with rocks while she was urinating in the field, called her a ‘slut’ and a ‘whore,’ and urged her to have sex with his brother, who was also on the trip.” Boston University, Science later said, did not find credible evidence to conclude that Marchant had physically assaulted Willenbring. But the investigation did conclude that he harassed her and created a hostile work and living environment with “sex-based slurs and sexual comments.” After denying his appeal this past February, the university is continuing to take steps to fire Marchant, who has undertaken more than 25 Antarctic expeditions over the course of his career.

The science world was horrified—but not necessarily surprised—by the extremity of the allegations. Fieldwork is often isolated, dangerous, and exposed. And when you’re living in your research tent, there is no separation between work and life. The only way out of the situation, sometimes, is a helicopter you may not be able to call, depending on who has the satellite phone and whether they’re the problem in the first place.

“I think potential harassers will use that [isolated] situation to their advantage,” says Anne Kelly, an ecohydrologist who directs the UC Merced Yosemite and Sequoia Field Stations, “because they know they can get away with stuff they may not be able to get away with in normal circumstances.”

Recent surveys have shown just how often scientists in the field do get away with things they might not in the lab, and why. Other research has revealed that a solution is, if not simple, at least available: clear guidelines that are actually enforced. A growing group, mostly of women scientists and the organizations they’re part of, is spearheading efforts to finally hold institutions accountable.


The harassment Willenbring describes happened nearly 20 years ago. And while she filed her complaint in 2016, Science’s article landed on October 6, 2017—one day after New York Times reporters Jodi Kantor and Megan Twohey published their first Harvey Weinstein investigation, ushering in the #MeToo movement.

By that point, though, science had already been embroiled in its own sort of #MeToo movement for a couple years. It began with a 2015 BuzzFeed story about astronomer Geoff Marcy, the patriarch of planets beyond our solar system, and his allegedharassment of four women over more than a decade. (Marcy has since apologized.) After that, more new stories explored just how the dynamics of academia abetted harassment. Caltech astrophysicist Christian Ott fell in love with his graduate student, told her so (a lot), and then fired her when she didn’t reciprocate his feelings. An investigation that finished in September 2016, first reported at BuzzFeed, found that Ott violated school harassment policies with that student and with another, in whom he’d confided about the first student. The university placed Ott on nine months of unpaid leave and prescribed “rehabilitative” training, although he later resigned. At the American Museum of Natural History, paleoanthropologist Brian Richmond resigned after a research assistant accused him of assaulting her in a hotel room at a conference in Italy—an allegation that was followed by accounts from three other students who said he groped them during field school.

Although Richmond’s assistant provided her account to HR, the three students didn’t initially file paperwork, although they have since provided written testimony to AMNH. Most students don’t report infractions (which professors know) in part because their careers can be made or broken by their supervisors. Universities also depend on the federal grant money that professors siphon in and are therefore disincentivized from punishing them. Perhaps as a result, investigations can be at once protracted and perfunctory. And whatever the results of those investigations, allegations and conclusions are usually confidential, so there is no permanent record. That, in part, prompted California representative Jackie Speier to introduce a bill that would require colleges and universities to disclose substantiated and alleged sex-based discrimination to federal funding agencies. As Marjorie Kirk of the Student Press Law Center noted in 2017, after the National Women’s Law Center filed a Freedom of Information Act complaint against the Department of Education for failing to provide records, “administrators refuse to release important records to the public…Without access to the records produced by universities, schools, and the Department of Education, there is little journalists, much less the public, can do to make sure that these public institutions are doing everything they should to make campuses safe.”

Most of science’s #MeToo stories have been confined to campus, the ivory tower, and raucous conferences at bland hotels. But a 2014 survey by anthropologist Kate Clancy, published in the journal PLOS One, showed that the problem also contaminates the hills, fields, mountains, and glaciers where scientists conduct research. In scientific disciplines where fieldwork may be the norm (biological sciences, geosciences, and environmental sciences), women make up about 45 percent of the researchers, and people of color—also likely targets of harassment—comprise just 14 percent of workers, according to 2017 numbers from the Bureau of Labor Statistics.

In 2011, a bioanthropologist friend of Clancy’s said a colleague had sexually assaulted her while they were doing fieldwork. The bioanthropologist’s mentor had advised her to keep the incident quiet so that it didn’t alter her professional path. Soon after, in January 2012, Clancy began posting women’s fieldwork accounts to her Scientific American blog. “I have heard enough of these by now, stories of harassment and assault, of belittling and being passed over, of subtle and overt sexism, that I feel it’s time to share some of them,” she wrote.

After that, even more people contacted Clancy with their own stories. Ever the scientist, Clancy decided it was time to quantify the problem. So, in 2013, she conducted a survey of 666 field scientists, male and female. The results were disturbing: 72 percent of the scientists had seen or heard about verbal harassment at their most recent or most notable field site, 64 percent had experienced sexual harassment in the field, and more than 20 percent had experienced assault. Men were usually harassed by their peers; women by their superiors. Less than a quarter of the respondents had worked at a field site with any kind ofsexual harassment policy.

Clancy followed up with 26 of the respondents who agreed to one-on-one interviews about their experiences. The researchers chose people at different stages in their careers and made sure to broaden the pool beyond people who self-identified as straight and white.

After speaking with them, Clancy and and her colleague Robin Nelson could generally sort those scientists’ experiences into broad categories of what harassment often looks like in the field: alienation, unnecessary tests of physical prowess, gendered divisions of labor, and sexual harassment and assault. One woman, for instance, described an expedition on which the researchers would set off from base camp on long, hard days with no warning or advance preparation. “I would try to vocalize, ‘I am tired. I can’t go any further. I need to eat,’” she says. The second time she spoke up, two other female researchers agreed it was time to refuel. “We started getting snide comments like, ‘Oh, well the ladies are hungry, so I guess we have to leave,’” she says.

And when it came time to work rather than trek, the tasks tended to fall along gender lines. “The men actually get to do the discovery,” Clancy says. “They get to twiddle the knobs on the equipment or do the actual digging.” The women get to write down what’s happening or clean the samples. Then, when it’s time to publish the results, the men tend to get more credit—which can have a cumulative negative effect on women’s careers.

In trying to understand what the interviews revealed in aggregate, Clancy and her colleagues categorized the respondents’ field experiences. “Norms of conduct fell along a continuum that we categorize from Red to Yellow to Green contexts,” they wrote in the resulting paper.Red (bad, always) meant no professional rules existed and no consequences for violating social norms. People experienced more harassment, assault, and career consequences. In “yellow” contexts, some rules were in place, but perpetrators suffered either no or uneven consequences. Perhaps unsurprisingly, people broke the yellow rules. The only good contexts were the “green” ones: Rules were clear and communicated, and people were punished for breaking them.

While it’s clear from the numbers that red and yellow experiences, and consequent bad behavior, have proliferated in the past, many organizations overseeing scientific fields are attempting to ameliorate that. In 2017, the American Geophysical Union reclassified harassment not just as regular old misconduct but as scientific misconduct, in the same category as infractions like plagiarism and data fabrication. And at other scientific organizations, like the American Astronomical Society, harassment and bullying are listed on equally bad footing as unethical research practices and can result in a private reprimand, a denial of membership privileges (or of membership), public censure, and/or a note about sanctions sent to the harasser’s institution. If would-be National Science Foundation grantees want money, their institution will have to disclose the results of any harassment cases filed against them.

In other words, violators won’t just get wrist-slapped: They’ll get their grants taken away, their membership in the scientific societies revoked, and their presence at conferences banned. They’ll be alienated from the scientific community, just as they alienated others.


Clancy’s group isn’t the only one to try to quantify field-specific harassment, though it is the largest. With funding from the NSF, the Earth Science Women’s Network (ESWN) found in a 2010 survey of scientists that 51 percent of its 498 female respondents and 6 percent of its 72 male respondents had experienced harassment during their careers. Now, through another NSF grant, the ESWN, the American Geophysical Union, and the Association of Women Geoscientists have teamed up with university researchers to get even more statistics. “I feel that one data point is too many people who are being harassed,” says Erika Marín-Spiotta, the grant’s lead. “But people respond to numbers. Especially scientists.”

Marín-Spiotta and her colleagues don’t plan to stop at getting more data points, though they plan to do that as well. But most of their efforts will be proactive, like developing tools to recolor field experiences—that is, to make them greener.

They will, for example, train people about what to do if they see a bad situation forming. “When these situations are unfolding in the field, a lot of times there’s actually somebody there,” says Asmeret Asefaw Berhe, one of the grant’s co-investigators. “But people are either afraid of the consequences for themselves, or they might just feel like, ‘It’s none of my business.’” The group is planning to develop trainings that teach scientists to recognize harassment as it’s happening and to know what to do about it.

Normally, says co-investigator Meredith Hastings, the kinds of case studies people encounter in HR workshops are black and white. In real life, says Hastings, “almost every situation you encounter is gray.” The group plans to create trainings—in person, online—to help people differentiate those shades.

Of course, real life isn’t always subtle. Hastings hears people talk, on every expedition, about fieldwork as if it’s a free-for-all where bad behavior is expected—where it doesn’t even “count,” as if Antarctica is Las Vegas. “Literally every time I have gone into the field, I have heard that kind of comment,” Hastings says. While at her career level, the comments come from colleagues, those same colleagues are students’ superiors.

No one, Hastings says, should have that extra boulder placed in front of them. “Imagine that you’re someone who loves spending time outdoors, and you decide to make a career of it,” she says. “That might be a field geologist. And then to have that essentially ruined for you.”

Harassment can have career-altering effects on women scientists. One person who was assaulted couldn’t confront her data when she got home. It wasn’t just scientific fodder anymore: It had become a reminder of the trauma. “Any time I tried to think about [my project], it put me back in that field and back in that incident,” the respondent told Clancy.

Another, who left a field sitebecause of a hostile environment, had to suppress thoughts, feelings, and accusations about her harasserif she wanted to keep studying the same topic. “Because I work in this area of the world and work at certain sites where he is pretty well-known, it kind of became clear that I was going to have to play along a little bit of the political game,” the respondent told Clancy. “Because my research was now starting to be centered around this area, and he had this reputation and everyone knew him.”


Anne Kelly, director of Yosemite and Sequoia Field Stations, sees all of this play out, because she worksfull-time at a remote field station. Much of her day-to-day involves making sure researchers, with their varying levels of backcountry experience, are safe and prepared: that they know how to deal with broken femurs, grizzly bears, and topo maps. But Kelly, who started at Yosemite in 2016, has also added harassment and assault safety to her agenda. Kelly has been working against sexual assault at universities for about ten years, and she’s been developing field harassment and bullying policy for about three years.

Kelly’s big on having a clear way for people to report harassment problems and sending them to remote ridges only when they have a clear understanding of what “problems” look like. She wants rules, reporting, and repercussions all laid out like a route plan. Kelly says that currently, at the level of a field station like hers, “the rules are only enforced to the extent that the field station manager enforces them.” One of her next big initiatives is to get scientists’ home institutions “to develop methods and meaningful support” for more universal implementation of those policies. For now, “just having those in place and visible go a long way for changing the culture and letting people know what behavioral expectations are,” Kelly says. Even if some scientists don’t think there’s anything wrong with assaulting a student beneath starlight when she has nowhere but a cliff to run to and also needs to keep gathering data on alkaliphiles, they can still feel the fear of getting caught. This, absent actual morals, can go a long way.

Getting out in front of the problem is especially important for scientists, who come from a world that’s imbalanced even in the office. “Academia itself has a really unhealthy power dynamic between supervisors and students,” Kelly says. People usually work in a small subfield for their whole career, so the person supervising their studies will likely show up at the same conferences and in the same collaborations—forever. The need to keep someone in your life and happy, when they’re being destructive toward you, can be an anvil to the psyche. “We see it play out on campus in really unhealthy ways,” Kelly says. “Then, if power dynamics are already toxic, I think that kind of stuff gets worse when you’re in a remote location.”

Up until recently, people didn’t really talk about how much worse it got, or how often. “If you didn’t see it, it was easy to pretend it wasn’t real or was rare,” Kelly says. Word spread in so-called whisper networks, in which women warn each other about who to avoid and why.

Then came a 2016 report from the Interior Department’s inspector general: Park Service employees had perpetrated “a long-term pattern of sexual harassment and hostile work environment” on Grand Canyon river trips. Some of the affected rafters were scientists, just trying to do geology. Some were conservationists, just trying to restore the waterway. There was no ignoring it at that point: The call was coming from inside the house, and it was loud.

Since then, Kelly’s efforts have been a bit more appreciated. And she’s been actively improving Yosemite, leading workshops for other sites, and implementing preemptive policies—policies a stratum deeper than “don’t get drunk and assault people,” and more like “the supervisor shouldn’t be the only one with car keys.”

Still, some colleagues have questioned the utility of her crusade, saying harassment isn’t that frequent, so do we really need to have such official protocols? “Lighting strikes aren’t that common either, but we have lightning-safety field protocols,” Kelly says. “And people get struck by lightning way less than they get assaulted.”

GoLite, Thru-Hikers' Favorite Brand, Is Back. Sorta.

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Three years after ultralight backpacking gear company GoLite filed for bankruptcy and liquidated its assets, the brand is back—at least in name. On Tuesday, GoLite announced its relaunch under new ownership.

Aside from the moniker, not much will be the same about the new GoLite. The logo is different, the product is different, and for the time being, the new owners have no plans to make tents or backpacks or specialize in ultralight equipment—the very products that made the original GoLite so popular with thru-hikers. Instead, GoLite 2.0 will be launching in January with a line of athletic outdoor apparel.

According to Andrew Skurka, a columnist for Outsidewho worked for GoLite seasonally from 2003 to 2007, the new brand seems to be picking up where the old GoLite left off. In the years before its demise, GoLite had started making more athletic and lifestyle apparel to fill its dozens of brick-and-mortar stores. That switch was ultimately the company’s downfall. “One mistake of the original GoLite was changing their identity every year or two,” says Skurka. “They never stopped long enough to own any category.” By 2014, the company had tied up too much cash in lifestyle apparel it couldn’t sell and moved to dissolve the business.

When GoLite went on sale in 2015, a Taiwan-based holding company named EGI Ltd. bought the naming rights and trademark. Ryan Hemmerling, founder of ExOfficio, had worked with EGI, got wind of the acquisition, and expressed interest in coming on board to help develop the brand. EGI said yes pretty quickly, and Hemmerling spent the next year building a small team of outdoor-industry veterans from companies like Patagonia, ExOfficio, and Royal Robbins. Some had been customers of the former GoLite in its heyday of ultralight hiking and backpacking gear. “We spent a long time talking about what the relaunch of GoLite would look like,” says Josh Clifford, GoLite’s brand manager. “Would it look like the original? If it would be different, how would it be different?” Ultimately, they settled on different.

The product line will center around what the company calls Outletics, a mashup of technical outdoor apparel and athletic training apparel—essentially outdoor-oriented athleisure with a heavy emphasis on performance. “I go out hiking and see people wearing North Face tops with Brooks running shoes, or Nike running tights with an Arc’teryx jacket,” Clifford says. GoLite’s goal is to fill the gap between hardcore, technical outdoor brands and fitness brands and ultimately create apparel that transitions from trail to town. (It’s not the only brand to move in this direction.) All in all, a far cry from the ultralight technical packs, tents, and shells that made GoLite such fan favorite with core long-distance hikers.

However, not all of the originalGoLite legacy is lost. The new owners are upholding the mantle of environmentally conscious business. “We loved what GoLite stood for,” Clifford says. “It was a great opportunity to evolve the original brand to mean ‘go light on the planet.’” GoLite is manufacturing its apparel using solar-powered factories and waterless dye processes when possible. Almost all of its fabrics are Bluesign approved, and roughly 80 percent are made from recycled materials. The brand will also donate clothing to doctors and other aid workers in developing nations and has already made its first trip to Uganda to give more than 12,000 uniform shirts to doctors in a refugee camp.

Luckily for the old GoLite faithful, the company that specialized in ultralight backpacking gear does still exist, albeit under a different name. When GoLite went under in 2015, founder Demetri Coupounas bought the patents to several of its most popular designs, and opened a new company, called My Trail Co., which Skurka calls a “smarter and more deliberate GoLite.”

My Trail has a small line that focuses exclusively on backpacks, tents, technical outerwear, and base layers. “We’ve carried over the things we were doing right,” Coupounas says. “That is terrific, high-performance, durable, lightweight products.” What it’s not doing: reopening tons of stores or selling lifestyle apparel. My Trail, which has been up and running for two years, sells direct to consumer and has a single flagship store in downtown Boulder. Many of the packs, tents, and puffies lining the shelves are tweaked versions of GoLite classics.

In the end, it seems like the best of both worlds: Fans can still get their fix of well-designed ultralight gear, and a new philanthropic, environmentally conscious company gets to see the light of day.

10 Tips for New Rock Climbers

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At the 2018 Women’s Climbing Fest in Bishop, California, we talked with professional climbers, guides, and industry workers to soak up some advice for beginners. Here’s their best advice for advancing your technique, taking care of your body, and overcoming mental obstacles.

Many beginner climbers think the sport is all about upper-body strength, says Eliza Earle, an outdoor photographer and climber. But paying attention to where you place your feet often allows you to reach higher holds more easily and puts less strain on your arms and fingers. Instead of focusing on pulling on the next hold, she says to “always think with your feet first.”

Negative self-talk can seem insignificant, but it may actually hinder your growth in climbing, says Katie Lambert, a professional climber and nutritionist. “Climbing is an individual game, meaning it’s unique for each of us, and that’s the beauty of it. Make it your own thing, celebrate in the differences, and support one another’s triumphs.”

Flexibility is often overlooked, but it can help you reach different holds, creating more options for solving climbs, according to pro climber and coach Molly Mitchell. Flexibility in your hips opens the door to higher or distant footholds. She suggests this stretch: Lie on the floor in a frog position—as if you’re doing the middle splits, but bendyour knees. Stretch for one minute on and one minute off for five total minutes of stretching.

“Always use your pinkies,” professional climber Kyra Condie recommends. “Not only do they make your grip position stronger, but they also help you avoid injuries.”

“When your skin is good, climbing doesn’t hurt as much and your day lasts longer,” pro climber Abbey Smith says. She keeps her fingertips clean with a small, durable spray bottle of rubbing alcohol. Smith rests to cool down her body temperatureso her hands are dry before attempts, and she files away any rough edges on her hands with fine-grade sandpaper. Post-climbing, Smith repairs her skin with an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing ointment. “Neosporin with pain relief is my favorite,” she says.

“Understand that climbing is mostly about being comfortable with failing,” pro climber Emily Harrington says, whether that’s a fear of falling, the inability to complete a certain move, or a lack of confidence. Instead of trying to push away feelings of insecurity, Harrington tries to acknowledge them. “I felt so bad about myself every time I was afraid, because none of the boys seemed to be scared. I wanted to be like them,” she says. “I wish I had known that it was perfectly OK to be like me.”

To take some of the risk out of gear placement, start on top rope, says Miranda Oakley, a guide and professional climber. She suggests new climbers weight each piece of gear and bounce-test it. Then, look closely at what the piece does under a little bit of force. “This will not only help you learn how to place gear properly and quickly in a safe environment, but it will also help you learn to trust your gear,” Oakley says. “If pieces pop out—great! You’re learning.”

Professional climber Jenn Flemming says this simple mindset switch helps a lot. “When you’re a beginner, there’s an incredible learning curve in terms of technical knowledge about movement, body position, and strategy,” she says. “Developing competent technique will take you so much further than CrossFit or the hangboard.” How to up your technique: Spend time watching other people climb, observing movement and how different people use their body in different ways. Keep an eye out for how and when climbers rest, and notice their style choices—bent versus straight arms, open hips versus back-stepping. You will get stronger naturally as you climb more. “There’s plenty of time for training when you inevitably plateau a few years in,” Flemming says. “But technical knowledge is crucial and something you can begin developing at the outset.”

“I just took my first lead fall outside, and I’m climbing 5.13 in the gym. I refused to take falls, because it felt like failure to me,” says Meaghen Brown, a writer for Patagonia and former Outside editor. “But falling doesn’t mean that you’re failing. It means that you’re working on something and you’re learning.” As long as you master the proper techniques for lead climbing and you can take safe falls, don’t be afraid to jump right in and lead things at or above your limit, says Sara Nazim, a product developer at Outdoor Research.

No matter where you are in the climbing process, attitude is everything, says Sanni McCandless, a life and nutrition coach. Are you the person who bringseagerness to every climbing session, or are you the person who throws their shoes on the ground when they can’t send a project? Instead of jumping to find an excuse when you can’t finisha route, use your failure as a learning experience. “Enthusiasm and desire to learn are the character traits that really matter while learning to climb, not the grade,” McCandless says.

Sarah Gerhardt on Big-Wave Surfing in a Man's World

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Sarah Gerhardt is not a professional surfer, but among big-wave riders she needs no introduction. In 1999, Gerhardt was the first woman to drop in at Mavericks, the monster break off the Northern California coast. Just a few weeks later, Quicksilver held the inaugural surf contest there, calling it "Men Who Ride Mountains.” In fact, no woman was invited until 2016, when the contest was forced to add a women's heat in order to receive a permit from the California Coastal Commission.

Being a pioneer in a male-dominated sport is never easy, but  Gerhardt had a particularly challenging road. Growing up in San Luis Obispo, California, she and her sister cared for their mother, who suffered from severe muscular dystrophy, while their father was at sea for months at a time as a merchant marine. The family often struggled financially and she was bullied in school. But Gerhardt’s dad gave her a surfboard and wetsuit for her 13th birthday and she found refuge in the ocean. On a trip to Hawaii in college, she fell in with a crew of surfers that included big-wave icon Ken Bradshaw, and quickly found herself tackling bigger and bigger waves. 

Now a chemistry professor at Cabrillo College, Gerhardt continues to ride huge swells. On a recent episode of the Outside Podcast, she spoke with correspondent Stephanie May Joyce about her mentors, her hecklers, and what it’s like to ride mountains. Below is an edited transcript of their conversation.

The Woman Who Rides Mountains

Listen to our podcast interview with Sarah Gerhardt

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SARAH GERHARDT: I had a love-hate relationship with surfing. The equipment I was riding was terrible, so it was very difficult for me to learn and I was on my own and just kind of thrashing around in some pretty brutal conditions. Sometimes I would get really frustrated and just, “I never want to surf again,” and then I'd be back at the beach and be like, “I'm gonna try it again.” So I wasn't hooked immediately on surfing, but I was definitely immediately hooked on the ocean. I loved the way it smells on a big day. It's actually a little ozone smell, it smells kind of sweet.

Surfing was a way to be part of that experience, so I kept at it. And then eventually when I did figure out how to stand up on a wave and go down the line, the feeling was just like flying on water, and I just kept wanting that feeling over and over again.

There’s the social component. I did have a lot of negative energy from men. I got a lot of heckling, like “You’re a chick, you can't surf.” When I went out on to bigger and bigger waves, all those men who were naysayers were on the beach kicking dirt, and I could leave them behind.

I could leave everything on the beach. I could leave how crazy life was, I could leave poverty, I could leave illness, all my worries. Being out and in bigger surf requires so much attention and so much focus. It really kind of distills life down to its experiential essence and just for those brief moments in time—maybe an hour, or maybe ten seconds on a wave—it was just the kind of thing that kind of liberated me, so that I could go back to the beach and face life.

I’d really gotten slapped around trying to paddle out. I'd seen how terrifying it is. So I had open expectations of whatever's going to happen is going to happen. I was just kind of fooling around, like, “Hey, is this where I sit? Is this where I go?” Colin Brown, who's become a lifelong friend of ours, was saying, “Actually, this is the perfect spot, and here comes a wave, and you're going to catch it.” So I spun around and caught a wave right then and I was completely blown away, it was such an incredible experience. I kicked out and said, “I want more of that.” So that's what I did—I went and got more.

The next swell that broke was in March, and my husband and I paddled out together. It was kind of big and stormy, and it wasn't crowded. There was a photographer on a cliff that I didn't notice, which is good, because I actually don't like being in front of a camera. I was able to go out and free surf, and I got some more waves that day. It was a really amazing experience.

I had a message on my phone when I got home from that session, from Surfer magazine, wanting to do an interview. I was like, “How the heck do they even know I got a wave?”

I wasn't prepared for the attention. I didn't want it and didn't really know how to handle it. At the time, there was an online forum called Agroville, and a lot of people had pseudonyms, and so they could hide behind anonymity. A lot of people started ripping me apart. They were saying said I was stupid and I couldn't surf and and I was going to get worked and would I ever come back. I read those comments and I never read it again.

I did get positive feedback, too. A lot of people were really excited to see that a woman had surfed Mavericks. The interesting thing is even that was difficult to deal with because I've never thought of myself as amazing. I'm just a normal human being and I've spent a lot of time with my face just in the dirt, though I've picked myself back up and kept going. 

I thought about it at the end of high school and beginning of college, but there were very few opportunities for professional female surfers then. There were some women who were making a living on the tour, but mostly it wasn't really an option.

I got to surf with the top women in the world when I was in Hawaii. A lot of them were incredible surfers but they didn't have any sponsors because they didn't look the part. They weren't a size two with long blond hair and big boobs. I don't look like that, either, so there was no way I was going to get a sponsor. I saw the struggle, and it was just sad. And I had other had other aspirations anyway.

I was last on the list—there was no way I was going to get in the contest. But it was definitely a nod and recognition that I'd been out there, and I appreciated that honor. Interestingly enough, I didn't feel like I was worthy of it. I didn't feel like I could stand up in the same waves that men could and in the way that they were charging, so it felt a little awkward.

I think even after being out there for 20 years, it's still a man’s place. When there are 50 people in the water, and maybe there are only one or two women in the water, it doesn't feel like I belong there. I have a lot of really great friends that I just love and respect, and I'm excited to watch them surf. So on one hand I feel like this is my tribe, but on the other hand, I'm still an outsider and I think that it's probably awkward for the guys when they're all having fun, and they're carrying on with their banter, and, “Oh, here comes a woman. Okay, everybody tighten up, and start acting nicer.” I don't know that I'll ever experience a time when it's not like that.

There just aren't that many women involved in big-wave right now. I don't know how long it's going to take for that to change, but that doesn't mean that I'm going to stop going out. It just might always feel a little awkward.

 
I have mixed feelings about the contest. I've never been interested in competing against other people. I'd rather just go free surf. My heart isn't set on on the event happening, but I'm really looking forward to women having their moment to shine at Mavericks. And I am definitely the oldest person on the list, so I also feel like I'm ready to pass that torch onto to the next generation.

Listen to our conversation with Sarah Gerhardt on the Outside Podcast.

What We Can Learn from Roger Bannister

The world’s first four-minute miler has died, but his approach to the sport should live on

One of many surprises, when I showed up for my first meeting with the cross-country team at the University of Cambridge in the fall of 1997, was that we didn’t have a coach. Instead, the team had elected a “training secretary” the previous spring—a member of the team who would set the workouts and guide our training for the year. As a grad student miler newly arrived from Canada, where I’d trained with a very regimented university program and qualified for my first national team a few months earlier, the word that leapt to mind was “amateur.”

That moment of gentle culture shock has been on my mind as I process the news that Roger Bannister, the Oxford medical student who famously ran the first sub-four-minute mile in 1954 while training during his half-hour lunch breaks, died on Saturday at the age of 88. Bannister’s reputation as the “last amateur,” in a sport that has faced scandal after scandal in its modern, professionalized incarnation, is more complicated than the stories told about him sometimes suggest. But over the past few years, I’ve found myself more and more convinced that we should all strive to be more amateurish.

The fairy-tale world of Oxbridge sports that I encountered when I arrived in England was strikingly similar to the world I’d read about (repeatedly) in Bannister’s 1955 autobiography, The Four-Minute Mile. Bannister, as secretary and then president of the Oxford University Athletic Club, had been responsible for organizing the team’s competitions and had led the charge to fund and build the first modern track in Oxford—the very track where his most famous race later took place. The sport was still mostly student-run when I arrived in Cambridge. Before competitions, we slept in youth hostels or in someone’s parents’ basement. Even at the national university championships, the cross-country course had to be changed at the last minute one year because the farmer had plowed the field where we expected to run.

Bannister, who retired from running at the age of 25 and went on to a career as a world-renowned neurologist, was often quoted lamenting the decline of this sort of amateurism. “We felt that we belonged to a tradition that was dying,” he told Sports Illustrated in 1999. “I don’t mean the tradition of British privilege. In fact, I came from quite an ordinary background and attended Oxford only because I won a scholarship. No, the tradition was of running and working—and while you were studying, being part of a team.”

I’ve always taken Bannister’s nostalgia with a grain of salt. First, there’s no doubt he was in a position of tremendous privilege, merely in having the leisure to indulge in his hobby. And there’s also something distinctively Oxbridge in the desire to appear as if he wasn’t trying that hard. He says as much in his autobiography: “I know that I developed the pose of apparent indifference, to hide the tremendous enthusiasm which I felt for running, from the day I set foot in Oxford.” In reality, Bannister’s four-minute attempt required extraordinary effort and planning, involving—highly controversially—the unprecedented use of pacemakers to lead him through the first three laps, and a coach, Franz Stampfl, whose role he tended to downplay. And Bannister was highly attuned to the latest physiology: his paper on the effects of running with supplemental oxygen was published just a few months after his four-minute mile.

The counterfactual scenario often discussed about Bannister is what would have happened if he had won the 1952 Olympics, instead of coming in fourth. Would he have followed through on his stated plan of retiring? But to me, the more interesting question is: What would Roger Bannister’s running career have been like if he’d been born a decade later? By 1966, the world record was 3:51.3, set by a teenager named Jim Ryun, who was already training at a volume and intensity that Bannister could never have fathomed. If Bannister was sincere about his motivations for running and his desire for a balanced life, he would never have been able to compete with the talented and hard-striving generation that followed him. But would he have still chosen to compete in the sport? And would he have gained just as much enjoyment from pushing his own barriers, even if those personal thresholds didn’t write him a place in history?

Obviously I don’t know the answer to this question. And it may seem like I’m setting things up to conclude that Bannister’s approach to sport was only made possible by his lucky timing—coming of age at a time when training knowledge was finally advancing after the privations of the war, but before the rest of the world had a chance to take this newer, more rigorous approach to training to its logical conclusions. But the truth is, from everyone I’ve read about Bannister, I suspect he would have gone about things the same way, even if the circumstances were different.

I’m not arguing here that we should all agree to train no more than half an hour a day, or ban prize money from sports. But whenever I reread Bannister’s autobiography—which I did most recently just last week, while writing this column—I’m reminded of what I took away from my three years of running at Cambridge. In that lightly structured, amateur environment, none of what you do is imposed by an external authority. You choose how hard to train; you choose when to back off if you’re getting burned out. You decide what motivates you to run. In these respects, it’s a lot like… well, the entire rest of your life. I think going through that experience is one of the reasons I’m still running and competing, two decades later.

For me, Bannister will always epitomize this “amateurish” approach to sports. We’ll remember him because his greatest day on the cinders happened to coincide with a round-number time over an arbitrary distance. But we’ll also remember him because he reminds us that sports were a game and a journey of self-knowledge before they were a profession. “The aim is to move with the greatest possible freedom toward the realization of the best within us,” he wrote in 1955. “This is the quest of a lifetime, and sport plays only a small part in it.”


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