Lhakpa Sherpa Breaks Her Own Everest Record

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At 5:40 a.m.on May 16, Lhakpa Sherpa reached the summit of Mount Everest for the ninth time. In doing so she broke the record—her own record—for the most summits of the world’s tallest peak by a woman. The next closest woman to the record is American Melissa Arnot Reid, who’s climbed Everest six times.

Lhakpa, 45, is from the Makalu region of Nepal, and now lives in Hartford, Connecticut, with her three kids. After an abusive relationship with her ex-husband, fellow Everest climber George Dijmarescu, a court granted her full custody of their two daughters (Lhakpa's son is from a different relationship and was not a part of the custody battle). She’s a single mom, and works as a dishwasher at a Whole Foods in West Hartford. Before that she worked as a housekeeper and a cashier at a 7-Eleven.

Lhakpa lives modestly, and saves up to purchase a plane ticket back to Nepal each spring to climb Everest with her brother Mingma Gelus’ expedition company, Seven Summits Club. This year, Black Diamond sponsored her, providing gear and monetary support. According to the Associated Press, she wants “to show that a woman can do men’s jobs. There is no difference in climbing a mountain. I climb for all women.”  

Lhakpa has been making quiet history for decades. In 2000, she became the first Nepali woman to climb Everest and make it down alive (Pasang Lhamu Sherpa summited in 1993, but died on the descent). Lhakpa’s proven to be a particularly strong climber, despite ostensibly climbing Mount Everest off-the-couch every year (she credits her fitness to work that keeps her on her feet all day). She grew up above 13,000 feet and started working as a porter for an outfitter when she was 15. She’s become accustomed to pushing through hard times, both emotional and physical. One year she climbed Everest just eight months after giving birth, and another when she was two months pregnant.

Lhakpa told the Associated Press that she plans on climbing Pakistan’s K2 (28,251 feet), the world’s second tallest peak, next year. “I don’t need to be famous,” she told them. “I want to keep doing my sport. If I don’t do my sport, I feel tired. I want to push my limits.”

12 Graduation Gifts for Him

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When you buy something using the retail links in our stories, we earn an affiliate commission that helps pay for our work. Read more about Outside’s affiliate policy.

Gifts are a great way to commemorate an occasion but not all gifts are created equal. If you’re congratulating a young adventurer, skip the socks and get him something that will help him explore the world. 

We like this knife because it's a study in simplicity. A plain but sturdy stainless steel handle houses and then locks out a tough 2.14-inch steel drop point blade. Very few moving parts make it reliable and easy to clean.

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A wallet says a lot about a person’s personality so make sure your grad ditches the Velcro for something a little more refined. Pull out this Bellroy at a coffee shop, for example, and people will take notice. The handsome bi-fold is made of responsibly sourced leather, and the slim design stores a handful of bills and up to 11 cards.

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It’s not the sexiest gift, but the PowerShuttle is one of our favorite travel accessories. The book-sized cube keeps headphones, charging cords, and spare batteries organized when you’re on the move. If you think your grad deserves something fancier, check out the bespoke leather Tech Dopp kit II.

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This wildly entertaining narrativeby Outside contributor Christopher McDougall launched the barefoot running craze and inspired a general running boom in the early 2000’s. It’s a must-read for anyone who loves running or just being active outside.

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The unofficial uniform of college students and recent grads, this heathered polyester fleece looks good with just about any outfit whether you're 10 miles into the backcountry or walking through Boston’s financial district.

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If your grad is a biker but is still using a trunk mounted rack, it’s time for an upgrade. We love the roof-mounted BrassKnuckles which features a simple design that fits all crossbars and maintains a low profile when not in use. The best part is that unlike most roof racks, you don't have to remove the front wheel, so there’s no fussing once you get to the trailhead.

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The sweet-looking steel-case Momentum Steelix is water-resistant to 200 meters and has an ultra-hard, scratch-resistant mineral crystal face. But it’s the simple, easy-to-read design, luminous hands, and unassuming nylon strap that make it so appealing. And should your grad happen to lose it on an around-the-world trip, it was only 85 bucks.

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Yes, they're a pricey pair of kicks, but these leather boots will last decades. The lugged rubber sole provides excellent grip on wet sidewalks or dirt paths and the premium leather looks equally great with jeans or dressed up with khakis.

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Outside editors are big fans of the Aeropress and for good reason. Its simple, foolproof design makes delicious coffee at home but it’s lightweight and small enough to bring car camping or on a backpacking trip. 

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The Black Hole recently won the runner-up award in our duffel test which pitted 30 bomber, adventure-ready duffels against each other. Our tester lauded it for it’s lightweight yet durable material and ability to handle heavy loads. The 60-liter size is big enough to carry everything needed for extended weekend trips.

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Featuring a ripstop nylon back for enhanced strength and synthetic insulation for warmth, Rumpl blankets come in a variety of stylish colors and patterns. Stash it in your vehicle for impromptu picnics or chilly nights at the trailhead.

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A cooler will help facilitate adventure no matter the activity and Yeti makes the best in the business. The Tundra 65 has enough space to hold a weekend’s worth of food and beer for an entire group and is durable enough to last a lifetime.

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Could Ryan Zinke Lose His Job?

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Ryan Zinke’s first 13 months as interior secretary—a period punctuated by investigations into his conduct and dubious spending of taxpayer money—were summed up in a recent internal investigation. On April 10, the Interior’s Office of Inspector General (OIG) issued a report on Zinke’s hasty reassignment of 27 career staffers, many of whom worked in climate science and conservation, and a disproportionate number of whom were Native Americans. The move was called politically motivated and illegal by some.But OIG investigators couldn’t make such a determination, because the reassignment team “did not document its plan or the reasons it used.” Essentially, his department kept bad paperwork.

The report’s findings are consistent with howZinke has run the department. Time and again, his decisions have been made in a rushed fashion with little public input or transparency. Take his sudden plan to reorganize his 70,000-employee department, or to throw open offshore drilling areas—decisions that upset both conservatives and progressives.

James G. Watt was the last interior secretary who generated so much controversy—and he lost his job. But that was only after he became a political liability for Ronald Reagan. Thirty-five years later, in an administration swirling with controversy and under a president who cares little about traditional professionalism, it seems Zinke can do pretty much whatever he wants.

Consider yet another OIG report released this month, this one on Zinke’s penchant for booking chartered airplanes. Investigators looked into a June 2017 trip, during which visited the Golden Knights hockey teams and gave what DOI described as “sort of an inspirational-type speech, one that a coach might give." The problem was that Zinke charged taxpayers $12,375 to charter a flight from Las Vegas to Montana after the speech, in which he didn’t even mention Interior, according to the report. It turned out the hockey team had also offered to reschedule his talk so he could book commercial flights. Zinke shrugged off the speech as one that happened to coincide with a nearby event with county commissioners, though OIG found that his schedulers booked that appearance after his plans were finalized.

Neither OIG report will likely lead to any disciplinary action. But they provide a window into Zinke’s priorities. The hockey team Zinke spoke to is owned by William Foley II, a billionaire who donated to Zinke’s congressional campaigns, and Zinke’s speech, according to the OIG report, was all about his time as a Navy SEAL. Nonetheless, Daniel Jorjani, Interior’s acting solicitor, told investigators the occasion “aligned with the DOI’s priorities.” The trip, funded by taxpayer dollars, was “ten thousand percent compliant” with Interior’s mission, he said. 

The DOI seems at ease arguing that catering to donors and espousing the merits of Zinke’s Navy career are department priorities. (There’s speculation Zinke will gun for higher office in the near future.) In a way, it’s more of the same. Zinke has shown he values private interest over public comments when it comes to land, and that his department’s priorities are heavy on use and light on conservation.

If the past year is any indication, the latest OIG reports will result in little more than some bad press for Zinke. For one, there’s always another Trump-related scandal that sucks up more oxygen in Washington. Plus, Scott Pruitt is probably receiving more discussion in the Oval Office than Zinke. The lone instance of a reported feud between Zinke and Trump came after the quick exemption of Florida from Zinke’s offshore drilling proposal, but it was later revealed that the White House orchestrated the stunt to give a win to Governor Rick Scott, a longtime Trump supporter who’s running for the Senate.

Compared with Watt, the secretary who served under Reagan, Zinke has done plenty more that could cost him his job—like his office spending, vacations with a security detail, use of a personal e-mail address, public questioning of staff loyalty, treatment of minority women, obsession with flags, potential censorship of science, and aversion to diversity.

Two other government agencies have said they’ll investigate Zinke’s travel and reassignments. But unless those turn up documented illegal behavior, it’s hard to imagine Zinke will get the boot.

The Religious Ideology Driving the Bundy Brothers

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In January 2016, Cliven Bundy’s sons Ammon and Ryan—acting on what they said was divine inspiration—laid siege to the Malheur Wildlife Refuge, in Harney County, Oregon. Writer James Pogue drove over Mount Hood and arrived on the second full day of the standoff, spending most of the next weeks holed up with the leaders in the building they commandeered as a headquarters. In this excerpt from Chosen Country: A Rebellion in the West (Henry Holt, $28), Pogue meets Ammon for the first time as the eldest Bundy son laid out the little-discussed Mormon philosophy that guides so much of the modern anti-public lands movement.


“Hey, man, I like those boots.” I looked up and saw Ammon Bundy’s bodyguard wearing truck-stop sunglasses, a camo ball cap, a camo jacket, and a little .38 revolver on his hip—the same getup he’d be seen wearing later that night in a clip on The Late Show. This sentence made up the first words spoken in what was to become maybe the oddest friendship of either of our lives. It was just after the morning press conference, four days into the standoff, and we were talking on the snowy access road that led from the gate of the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge down to the cluster of buildings that had been taken over. The morning was gray, but the cloud roof was so high that it was hard to call the weather anything but clear, and you could still see all the way across the Harney Basin. My boots were a cross between western riding boots and traditional work boots, made by Red Wing and slightly too big for me, and I’ve never been able to find a pair to replace them.

“Thanks, man,” I said. I was heading up toward the parking lot to meet a photographer who had just driven in from Portland, Oregon.

“Back home they know me because I shotgun my boots,” the guy said, and indicated the way his jeans were tucked into his own Ariat western-cum-work boots. “I’m a big boot guy.”

I admitted that I held a lot of my net worth in boots, and I told him about my three pairs of Luccheses, and we got to talking about how I’d ended up there as much on a bizarre sightseeing trip as I’d come as a reporter. I mentioned that the previous April I’d been at the Sugar Pine mine—an earlier and, up to this point, even larger standoff with the BLM in Southern Oregon—and that the people who had been there mostly knew and trusted me. He registered something in his eyes. “Hold on, I want to find someone,” he said abruptly. “I’m Wes Kjar, by the way.” He pronounced his last name “Care.” Then he went off down the hill, and I went up to the parking lot and found Shawn Records, the photographer.

We had barely finished hugging and walking over from his silver Tacoma toward a looming tower used as a wildfire lookout when one of the rotating cast of camo-clad militiamen in balaclavas came and said, “Hey, are you James?” I said I was, and he said, “You want to come with me for a minute? I don’t know what it’s about, but I’m supposed to bring you to Ammon.”

He showed us to the small stone office, where Wes was manning the door, past several reporters who had been standing outside hoping for admittance. Wes showed us in, and Ammon rose to greet us. He was wearing the same brown felt cowboy hat and blue plaid shirt jacket he’d wear through the whole standoff, and he was burly and bearded but improbably well-proportioned for his bulk.

He shook our hands, said he’d heard about us, and, without explaining that comment, directed us to take a position at his desk, in the far corner of the room. Shawna Cox, one of Ammon’s father’s first and most fervent followers, was there, sitting alert next to his oldest brother, Ryan, who slouched in a swivel chair with a windbreaker, cowboy hat, and a revolver on his hip. Facing them was a family of ranchers arrayed in a semicircle, ranging from a redheaded little 11-year-old in a Stetson, boots, and a big belt buckle to what appeared to be his mother and father to a gravel-voiced and foulmouthed old man draped over a folding chair and wearing a giant hat. There was a whiteboard in front of them with diagrams and quotes from the Constitution. These were locals, some of the dozens who stopped by every day to talk to Ammon and receive his teachings. He’d wanted us to see the lesson.


It’s hard to explain how surreal and thrilling this was. Everyone at the refuge treated Ammon like a prophet. His name—you could hear it on the radios, you could hear it in the way the more peripheral militia guys enunciated it—was like a passcode. Reporters at the press conferences received his smiles like benedictions, and then bragged over their whiskeys back in town at the Pine Room bar about the solo access they’d gotten. He and his family were already well known to anyone who followed the standoff at the ranch in Nevada, and now the American politico-media complex had made him instantly one of the most famous people in the country, and maybe even, briefly, in the world—a sort of early avatar for all the divisions and insanity of 2016.

Living on the refuge, it was easy to get a heightened sense of his magnetism. He’d summoned us to this tiny office with its ratty gray carpet and cheap swivel chairs and one overused toilet and a little kitchen good only for making coffee, and somehow the setting seemed far more intimate than even a one-on-one interview could have been. He smiled at us and took up a spot at the whiteboard. “So what we were saying,” he said, “is, what’s supposed to happen when two entities have a conflict?”

There was a pause. The boy pushed his hat back and looked ready to say something. His mother nudged him encouragingly. “They’re supposed to work it out themselves?” he said.

“Perfect,” Ammon said, with infectious graciousness. “The Lord said, God said, you’re supposed to love thy neighbor as thyself.”

I’ve heard Ammon give the lecture he was giving that afternoon so many times now that I could probably recite it by rote. He gave it every day on the refuge, to all the ranchers who visited to offer supplication or just to see the thing up close, and it was always astonishing how often even the skeptics came away convinced. One afternoon a guy named Buck Taylor asked for an audience, wanting to persuade him to take the show home. “That rancher is fucking tearing into him in there,” someone told me when I asked what was going on. They talked for a while, and the next time I saw Taylor was at a community meeting an hour away from the refuge in the tiny windswept village of Crane, where he was one of dozens of converts shouting down a guy with the temerity to question Ammon’s vision of the Constitution. “I’m drinking the Kool-Aid,” he told Oregon Public Broadcasting that night. “I haven’t swallowed it, but I’m drinking it.” People brought up Kool-Aid a lot in reference to Ammon.


The effectiveness of the message is due to Ammon’s delivery and to the fact that components of the message have been seeded throughout the rural West for generations. At the beginning of that meeting in Crane, I heard Ammon quiz the crowd: “Who is the final arbiter of the Constitution?”

A lone, timid voice called out: “The Supreme Court?” There was an instant, angry, and honestly slightly disturbing chorus of nos and howls and boos from the assembled ranchers, which, even after years of seeing all this, frankly shocked me—this was damn near the entire adult male population of a strange town Ammon had never visited, where, if you believed the news reports, his ideas had no purchase, and yet these people seemed offended to the point of violence by the idea that the Supreme Court was responsible for interpreting the Constitution. “Right,” Ammon said. “The people interpret it.”

The Bundys are Mormons who believe that the Constitution was inspired, if not more or less dictated wholesale, by God—and that the founding of the United States was the first step toward the restoration of Zion on the continent where most of the Book of Mormon takes place. They’ve taken much of this from W. Cleon Skousen, a fervent Mormon and formative figure of the postwar America extreme-right who believed in a divine America beset by internationalist conspiracies to overthrow the Constitution. The Bundys have identified parts of the Skousenite philosophy and built their own system on top of it—as much a practical guide to living as a political schema, and it’s something they teach as all their own, without citing any influences besides the Constitution and the Bible.

The Constitution, for the Bundys, is an expression of certain natural rights, which are basically our rights to life, liberty, and property, with a heavy emphasis on property. These are supposed to have been implanted by God and so natively obvious that all people sense them intrinsically. Property, for them, is gotten and maintained, in a very frontier way, by your right to “claim, use, and defend” it, as they repeat ad nauseam. It’s a strange irony of the Bundys’ ability to generate media attention that this is maybe the key trio of words in their entire ideology, but that if you Google “claim, use, defend” along with the name “Bundy,” they seem to have not been able to get a single reporter to quote the phrase.

Ideal government, of which the Constitution is a more or less perfect expression, derives from the need to adjudicate between two parties claiming, using, or defending their rights or property when one or more isn’t acting in good faith. Ammon explained this theory of government in a perfect western vernacular.

“So say there’s a conflict some people have, say over a fence. What are they supposed to do?” he asked that afternoon. “I think you’re supposed to talk it out,” the little 11-year-old said.
 Ammon beamed. “Perfect! Did you hear that? The first thing we have is a right to work it out among each other. But let’s say that there’s someone that’s hardheaded or that doesn’t believe in God,” he paused. “Or, I’m not saying that…but I think there’s good people that…”

“They just get crosswised,” the boy’s mother said.

“Yeah,” Ammon said. “Maybe I’m wrong by saying that. But anyway”—he paused thoughtfully—“let’s just move on. So how do you resolve a situation where two people can’t work it out amongst themselves?”

“They go to the court?” the boy said.

Right again, Ammon said. The states, in turn, existed to adjudicate intercounty disputes, and the federal government to deal with interstate. The logical follow-up to this was that if someone felt abused by their county government—rather than a citizen of the county—they could appeal to the state government, and such-wise for state and federal governments. “But now,” he said, “what happens if you have a problem with the feds and you appeal?”

“Lose-lose?” said the mother.

“They go to the feds!” Ammon said. “They go to themselves. You know my dad says that going to federal court is like when a man walks into your house, and he beats up your wife and children. And so you take him to court. And a man walks into the courtroom in a black robe, and they say, ‘All rise for the honorable judge,’ and it’s the very man that beat up your wife and children. The problem is that the federal government doesn’t have the right to own rights,” he said.

“Or land,” Shawna, who was by Ammon’s side almost constantly at the refuge, jumped in to say. “They can’t own land.”

“They do, but it’s very limited,” Ammon said. “And the federal agencies don’t have the right to own rights.”

“What made them think they do?” the mother asked.

“They started it in about the turn of the century,” he said, referring to the creation of the forest reserves and the Forest Service. “There’s a whole history. But people didn’t challenge it at that time.”

“And now it’s expanded,” she said sadly.

“So look at what they’ve done to establish their rights around here. They claimed the land. They put their signs up and their logos on it. They restricted the use of it, saying now we’re going to lease it back to you. And you know dang well that they’re willing to defend it. The nice thing is that knowing all this makes it so easy to see how to fix it. And that’s why we’re here,” he said.

“Welcome,” the mother said.

“And so the solution is,” he said, “we claim our rights, we use our rights, and we defend them.”

Now came the stage where Ammon drew a map of the United States on the whiteboard. He then drew a box representing Washington, D.C., which he invariably located somewhere on the latitude of Connecticut, and quoted selectively from the Constitution to say that the federal government was allowed to own only the “‘ten miles square,’ or actually that’s a hundred square miles because ten by ten,” of Washington, D.C., along with “forts, dockyards, and other needful buildings” that could be built on lands ceded by the state. “The BLM thinks it owns 87 percent of Nevada,” he said. “Is that a fort, dockyard, or other needful building?”

This argument is so compelling in its simplicity that it’s hard to even talk it through with people who have heard it once. Because it seems to say it right there in Article 1, Section 8, Clause 17—that Congress shall have the right:

“To exercise exclusive Legislation in all Cases whatsoever, over such District (not exceeding ten Miles square) as may, by Cession of particular States, and the Acceptance of Congress, become the Seat of Government of the United States, and to exercise like Authority over all Places purchased by the Consent of the Legislature of the State in which the same shall be, for the Erection of Forts, Magazines, Arsenals, dockyards, and other needful Buildings.”

It’s hard to see how this would allow half the land in the West to fall under federal authority, and you could read this, if it was in your interest to do so, as restricting federal authority to precisely the places listed. But a fair-minded person could also read the intent of the clause as having to do with establishing a national capital and having basically nothing to do with the treatment of public lands thousands of miles away, which is how courts have always seen the matter. There are lots of things the Constitution doesn’t specifically address—including, in this exact clause, the question of how Washington, D.C., ought to be governed, since the exact text suggests that Congress ought to have the same authority over the city as it does over a military dockyard. And the Bundys conveniently never quote the Property Clause of Article 4, which is the article that was actually written to outline the relationship between the various layers of government, and which directly contradicts the whole point:

“The Congress shall have power to dispose of and make all needful Rules and Regulations respecting the Territory or other Property belonging to the United States; and nothing in this Constitution shall be so construed as to Prejudice any Claims of the United States, or of any particular State.”

The Bundys are great defenders of the idea that anyone with passion and a pocket Constitution ought to be able to interpret the document, and on this question, at least, that seems fair: “Nothing in this Constitution”—and one would have to think that this line applies to the bit that came before about the forts and dockyards as much as it does to anything else—“shall be so construed as to Prejudice any claims of the United States.” The clause specifically articulates the government’s right to regulate territories that have never fallen under the jurisdiction of states, and it specifically says that prior wording in the document, such as what the Bundys cite, shouldn’t be misread to infringe on that right. It’s not exactly complicated.

But in the Bundyite interpretation, the BLM and the Forest Service openly and merrily violated the Constitution in order to trample on westerners’ property rights, which in their schema wasn’t a small-bore range management question out on the fringe of the North American outback, but rather a violation and a mockery of a literally spiritual order of rights laid down in the Constitution, which itself was a mile marker on the road to Zion. The BLM was the family’s particular obsession, but in theory it was sort of incidental—it just seemed to them like the biggest violator. A man named Bert Smith, a Utah outdoor-store magnate who became a close collaborator with Skousen, mainstream Utah politicians, and with many far less well-known range warriors and ranchers, spent his life and a large part of his fortune pushing this general idea—without it ever crossing over to a national discussion. But this is where the family’s odd native political genius came in.


After the election of Barack Obama, so-called Patriot militia groups like the Oath Keepers grew so quickly that they became hard to track or even to define—with the lines between militias and angry, beyond-the-fringe Republicans getting harder and harder to draw. Glenn Beck started promoting Skousenite philosophy on Fox News, and Skousen’s 1981 book outlining his view of America as a heavenly project, The 5,000 Year Leap, quickly became the top seller on Amazon and stayed in the top 15 for all of the fervid summer of 2009. Militias all over the country began calling themselves constitutionalists and seeing the Constitution as a sacred document as much as any Mormon.

For the most part, they were careful to avoid looking like the white supremacist militias of the 1990s, and for all their numbers, they made little noise publicly. But when Cliven and Ammon linked the cause of ranchers and the rural way of life with the Patriot cause, it provided the movement a moral urgency it had lacked before, and also provided a neat trick for cryptoracists and white identity types.

In Britain, it’s very hard to talk about fighting for an “English way of life” without making it clear that some specific sorts of people aren’t welcome in that vision of the country. But the Bundys took a picturesque, iconic version of an American way of life and made the argument that it was the purest representation of the way of life the Constitution, and God, had set down to follow. Patriot groups learned that you could preach cultural nationalism without ever really talking about anything but the Constitution. This trick has filtered up to Republican politicians across the country, which is why Republicans in state legislatures are always trying to ban Sharia law. They aren’t anti-Muslim, of course, they just want to make sure we all follow the Constitution.

This has made it very hard to say who, exactly, in all of this, is a racist. I personally don’t think Ammon is nearly so animated by racial identity as most people on the left would assume—which isn’t to say he doesn’t feed and feed off the same white tribalism that drove the 2016 election. It’s just that he’s so lost in his religious mission that he pretends race is not a motivating factor. But he has given space to genuinely hateful people like Jon Ritzheimer and Blaine Cooper, two of his lieutenants at the refuge, who like to do things like wear “Fuck Islam” T-shirts and make videos of themselves wrapping pages of the Koran in bacon and burning them. And there are some kinds of company you can’t be forgiven for keeping.

The standoff united the ranchers and the Patriots who rallied to them in a family crusade to get more and more ranchers to refuse to pay grazing fees on public land—and eventually, by armed defiance, to break the entire land management system. From there, they envisioned a whole reordering and deregulation of American life and a rawhide-tinted vision of a West where public lands were held as a commons, with an overlapping system of claimed private rights working to let some people hunt, some people graze cattle, some people mine, all while sharing a good-old-days sort of open range.

At least some ranchers had already signed on to the revolution, declining to pay their grazing fees and waiting to see what, if anything, the federal government was going to do about it. Now the Bundys were looking for more. They didn’t advertise that part at the press conferences, but they said it at their workshops with the ranchers. At the meeting in Crane, Buck Taylor, the jowly rancher who’d said he’d been drinking the Kool-Aid, stood up and asked Ammon what would happen if he joined the cause and the feds came to arrest him.

Brian Cavalier, known as Booda, Cliven Bundy’s giant, grizzled, ogre-looking bodyguard, got up. He’d never met any of the Bundys when the standoff at the Nevada ranch popped off—he’d just driven up after leaving behind a job as a tattoo artist and a warrant for a bar fight back in Arizona. He’d ended up staying for two years, and now he was converting to Mormonism. “I was there when they came for Cliven,” he told Taylor. “And if you stand with us, I’m going to be right there on your porch when they come for you, cowboy.”

Boy Scouts Drops "Boy" from Its Name

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The Boy Scouts will no longer be the Boy Scouts. Following last year's move to allow girls into the Cub and Boy Scout programs, the BSA announced Wednesday that, starting next year, the Boy Scouts will simply be known as Scouts BSA. 

“As we enter a new era for our organization, it is important that all youth can see themselves in Scouting in every way possible,” Chief Scout Executive Michael Surbaugh said in a press release. “Starting in February 2019, the name of the older youth program will be Scouts BSA, and the name of our iconic organization will continue to be Boy Scouts of America.”

To explain: Cub Scouts—which has already started welcoming girls in some dens—is a program for 7 to 10 year olds. The program that was formerly Boy Scouts, and is now Scouts BSA, is for children ages 11 through 17. It will allow girls to begin working toward the Eagle Scout rank next year. The parent organization that manages both programs will continue to be known as the Boy Scouts of America. (The BSA is unaffiliated with the Girl Scouts.) 

The change is intended to make scouting more inclusive, according to the BSA. And the program is now truly available to everyone. In 2013, the BSA opened membership up to openly gay boys. In 2015, it began accepting openly gay adult leaders, too. In early 2017, membership opened to transgender children. And finally, last October, the BSA announced it would begin programs for girls. Dropping the gendered noun from the name of the program for older kids simply makes sense and brings the BSA in line with other international scouting programs, which have successfully allowed girls to be members for decades. 

The BSA also announced that it will launch a recruitment campaign this summer called Scout Me In, which is intended to highlight its programs new inclusiveness. Over 3,000 girls have already joined the Cub Scouts’ pilot program and the campaign’s imagery will partially be drawn from their experiences. Stephen Medlicott, the BSA’s marketing director says, “It speaks to girls and boys and tells them, ‘This is for you. We want you to join!’”

Vista Outdoor to Stop Making Guns

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Buried in Tuesday's quarterly financial report, Vista Outdoor quietly announced that it plans to get out of the business of making guns.

The huge conglomerate is best known in the outdoor world for popular brands like CamelBak, Bushnell, and Camp Chef, but it also owns a number of shooting-related companies, like Savage and Stevens, which it plans to sell. 

The move comes after enormous pressure was placed on the company by consumer boycotts of gun manufacturers following the school shooting in Parkland, Florida. One petition, which gathered over 24,000 signatures, called for REI to drop all Vista products. Soon after that, both REI and its Canadian counterpart, MEC, announced that they would halt orders of all Vista Outdoor brands. 

Vista billed the move as a “strategic business transformation plan,” and stated in a press release: “Our review identified product categories that are core to the company's long-term business strategy. We believe future investment should focus on categories where Vista Outdoor can achieve sustainable growth, maximize operational efficiencies, deliver leadership economics, and drive shareholder value.” Vista also announced that it will sell bike brands Bell, Giro, and Blackburn. 

In its quarterly report, Vista noted a 9 percent drop in annual sales, and cited, “lower firearms sales as a result of decreased demand impacting the shooting sports industry.”

Yet it seems there's more at play here than simply the “Trump Slump,” which is affecting the firearms industry as a whole. Vista’s largest profits come from its multiple ammunition brands—Federal, Speer, and American Eagle—which are some of the largest in the country and which the company remains invested in. Selling off its gun brands could be seen as turncoat compromise by Second Amendment absolutists (see what happened to Yeti last week). Boycotts of those brands by that crowd could follow. 

At best, we may have just seen the firearms business begin to develop a moral compass. At worst, the spending power of outdoor enthusiasts just won a small victory in the fight against gun violence. 

Memphis Rox Wants to Get More People Climbing—for Free

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Most climbing gyms are ripe venues for bingo. Tribal tattoos, alternative piercings, man buns—check ’em off. But at one of America’s only nonprofit climbing gyms, you’ll find a much wider array of people walking through the door: a basketball team, a Boys and Girls Club, 30 family members celebrating a grandmother’s 95th birthday. Some visitors are avid outdoor climbers, thrilled that Memphis finally has a full climbing gym. Others are neighborhood residents, curious about a sport they’ve never seen or experienced.

“It’s the most diverse group I’ve ever seen,” says Jon Hawk, head of operations at Memphis Rox. “I’ve been managing climbing gyms since 2004, so I’ve seen a lot, and this has been pretty freakin’ inspiring.”

Memphis Rox opened its doors in late March, emphasizing inclusivity from the start. Anyone who can’t afford the $50 monthly membership can volunteer for five hours instead, either at the gym or other nonprofits in the city. The facility also features a pay-what-you-can juice bar, a fitness center, and spaces for yoga and meditation to meet more of the community’s needs. The gym’s approach is inseparable from its surroundings: the neighborhood of Soulsville, a stretch of low houses and humble storefronts south of the city center.

From 1960 to 1975, Soulsville was home to Stax Records, the legendary label behind acts like Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, and Booker T. Jones. Even before Stax came to town, Soulsville had been a cultural hub—it was the site of the first city park in Memphis, the first female educational institution, and the first African-American school and college. But it wasn’t immune to the pressures hitting urban neighborhoods all over the country: After streetcar lines closed in the 1940s, white workers migrated to the suburbs and local businesses started shutting down. Stax’s bankruptcy, in 1975, hastened the neighborhood’s decline. By the early 1990s, Soulsville was struggling with some of the highest rates of poverty and unemployment in Memphis.

Later that decade, community members started working to bring life back to the neighborhood. They rebuilt Stax Studios as a museum honoring the label’s legacy, with new projects including a music-focused charter school and mentoring program. In 2009, a complex of commercial buildings was constructed across the street, intended to house a grocery store and offices to jump-start the area’s economic revival. (Soulsville is considered a food desert—its grocery stores have all closed, so residents have no local access to fresh food.) But the shiny new complex just sat there, empty. Weeds colonized the unfinished floors.

While all this was happening in Memphis, a different sort of rebirth was taking place in Los Angeles. Tom Shadyac, the director of blockbuster comedies like The Nutty Professor, Ace Ventura: Pet Detective, and Bruce Almighty, started to feel uneasy about his lavish lifestyle. He sold his 17,000-square-foot mansion in 2007 and moved into a mobile-home community in Malibu, making plans for a simpler life. Then, on a trip to Virginia that fall, Shadyac crashed his mountain bike and sustained a concussion. The symptoms incapacitated him for days, then weeks, then months.

Shadyac emerged from the experience with an even deeper desire to make the most of his remaining time and resources. He poured money into projects, like a homeless shelter in Virginia and international charities like Invisible Children. In 2013, Shadyac started teaching a storytelling class at the University of Memphis and grew more involved in the life of the city. He found out about the unused complex in Soulsville—and then he bought it.

“When I met Tom two years ago, he had two empty buildings he didn’t know what to do with,” says Chris Dean, director of outreach at Memphis Rox. The now 59-year-old Shadyac talked to Soulsville residents like Dean and identified recreation as one of the neighborhood’s greatest needs. He organized a youth climbing trip to Boulder, Colorado, where, Dean says, “we slowly started to piece together what we thought this place could become.”

The end result isn’t just “a little, tiny gym,” as Hawk put it. During construction, the roof was raised to accommodate 55-foot routes. The building has about 100 top-rope lines and will average between 150 and 200 boulder problems. It’s a serious climbing facility, but the Memphis Rox team values accessibility and service to the community above all else.

The team actively looks for ways to make an impact beyond their walls, including training new route setters. “I don’t want people to think that you just come in and climb and then leave. There are many, many jobs in the climbing industry that people don’t realize,” says Josh Jimenez, the gym’s head setter. Hawk agrees: “Route setters can go anywhere in the country, anywhere in the world, and find a pretty damn good wage these days.” He points out that he and Jimenez are the only employees who aren’t native Memphians. “The other 28 employees are all locals, learning a trade they would never have been exposed to otherwise.”

Hawk expects that Memphis Rox will rely on local donors and grants from foundations for its first few years, but he also hopes to get the national climbing community invested in the project’s success. (Rock Candy, Kilter, and Walltopia all funded guest setters to help with the opening.) “I think climbing can build a stronger community than any other sport or activity. We all have different backgrounds, but we come together to work on the same problem.” And if the program is successful, Dean says, “we want a Detroit Rox, we want a Chicago Rox, all in underprivileged areas. I don’t see why not.”

One Perfect Thing: Allied All Road

If I could own only one road bike, it would be this Swiss Army knife of a pavement machine

A few years back, road-bike design was becoming so segmented that it seemed like you needed a different bike for every occasion: a spindly lightweight for climbing; an aero machine for rolling terrain; a TT bike for short efforts; a steel three-speed for commuting; a knobby-tired specimen for cyclocross; a fatter-tired knobby model for adventure and gravel. 

That specialization still exists, but in the last couple of years, there’s been an interesting counter-trend toward road bikes that are more versatile. And no bike that I’ve ridden in the past year better exemplifies the trend than the Allied Alfa All Road.

At quick glance you wouldn’t be able to tell this bike apart from a standard road machine, such as the Trek Madone or Specialized Tarmac. That’s partly because before the bike’s lead designer, Sam Pickman, took the reins at Allied, he spent 12 years engineering for the Big S in Morgan Hill. That’s not to say that the All Road is a rip-off. But Pickman comes to the gravel category from a traditional road background, and the bike looks the part, with a steep head angle (73 degrees), a not-too-low bottom bracket, and short chain stays relative to comparable gravel bikes. “My feeling is that much of the gravel market has gotten it wrong with the tall head tubes and upright positions,” Pickman says. “Weight over the front tire equals traction, and, at least for me, that gives the most confident ride, whether I’m on pavement or dirt.”

Then again, the bike is called the Alpha All Road, not the Alpha Gravel, for a reason. It is, quite simply, a disc road bike that accommodates fat tires. On a set of Enve SES 3.4 Disc clinchers, which have an extremely wide 21mm internal rim width, I’ve been running 35c Hutchinson Verides with room to spare for at least a few more millimeters. And on 650B wheels, I favor the 42c Compass Babyshoe Pass, and I’m pretty sure there’s room enough for 45c WTB Riddlers. However, unlike more gravel-specific bikes such as the Open U.P. or 3T Exploro (both incredible rides in their own right), the Alpha All Road also looks and rides just fine with a lightweight set of climbing wheels and 25c race tires. And in every one of these iterations, my tester weighs just 15 pounds and change.

Numbers geek-out aside, what this means is I have a bike that can take the place of every single road model that I’ve ever ridden. Not just that, but the All Road is one of the highest-performance machines in pretty much all of those varied genres. I’ve ridden it in the hardest, fastest group rides that I’ll ever be able to participate in and kept pace just fine. I’ve climbed 7,000 feet in a day in the high mountains and never felt handicapped because of weight. I’ve plowed up 4,000-foot forest road ascents, smashed down two tracks so rutted and sandy they’d be perfectly acceptable on a mountain bike, and pedaled no shortage of single track, albeit the smooth, flowy variety. Heck, I’ve even loaded the All Road up with packs and taken it bikepacking for a few nights.

And in every single instance, I’ve finished thinking, “Chose the right bike for the job, again.”

It’s true that, beyond the frame, there’s everything to love about this bike. Mine is built with the finest kit available: full Dura-Ace Di2 9170, with the silkiest shifting of anything out there and new disc brakes that set the standard on the road; Shimano Pro Vibe cockpit parts, which allow all the wires to get tucked away; those Enve 3.4s that are so smooth and quick they would probably make a Huffy ride like a Pinarello; and a Brooks Cambium C13 Carved saddle, perfect for taking the butt-sting out of the rough. This bike costs over $10,000 as built, so yeah, of course it feels as polished as a Tour machine.

But what I love about the All Road, and Allied’s direct-to-consumer model, is that you can get this exact frame with a high-quality build (Ultegra mechanical and Shimano RX-31 wheels) for just $5,000. That’s competitive with the big brands, without any reduction in carbon quality. Plus, you get a custom spec, your choice of 19 paint jobs, and a product that’s 100 percent engineered and built in the U.S. 

If I have one misgiving about my All Road, it’s that the geometry is a tad aggressive. Though Allied has a taller head tube option for this bike, which raises the front end by 20mm, those molds weren’t even built when this test bike came off of the company’s nascent production line. Were I to buy a brand new frame, I’d consider the more relaxed position, which would simply give me more fit options and make the ride more comfortable. 

But that’s a mere niggle, a fact that’s underscored every time I walk into my garage, which is hung with 20 or more bikes at any given time. From that plethora, I find myself inevitably, almost instinctually, grabbing my Alpha All Road whenever I’m not required to test something else. And each time I pull it off the hooks, I grin with the anticipation of what I know will be an excellent ride ahead. I truly may never need another road bike in my life.

What Kerouac's Wilderness Teaches Us About Parenting

When she was in college, Jack Kerouac’s book The Dharma Bums helped the author find her place in wilderness and in life. She hoped it would do the same for her 16-year-old son as they embarked on a mother-son California road trip retracing Kerouac’s adventures.

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On the third day of our mother-son road trip in Northern California, Scout and I stare each other down in the parking lot of Mount Tamalpais State Park, near the Pacific.

We’re hot, tired, and hating each other.

That last part’s not true. We love each other.

But the heat, Scout’s stinky feet, and my excessive nagging make us edgy. He reacts by shutting down; I react by asking why he isn’t showing more enjoyment. If this continues, we might start shouting.

Then, out of nowhere, angels.

A father and son, twin-like in their resemblances to John Travolta. They pull alongside us in a carbon-belching Volvo. Stepping out and addressing me, older Travolta practically sings, “What a day! My son and I are on a father-son road trip! We just did Tomales Bay. You ever done it? If not, you should!”

I beam congenially at him, but my competitive spirit has ignited. “How weird that you’re on a father-son trip,” I say. “Because we’re on a mother-son trip!” Then, to myself: But ours is amazing. Because we’re not just on a trip, we’re on a pilgrimage.

Our journey stems from a book I read and loved and gave Scout just after his 15th birthday: The Dharma Bums, Jack Kerouac’s classic Beat Generation novel, published in 1958. It tells the semifictional story of a merry band of society-shunning writers and the beautiful friendship between Ray Smith (who represents Kerouac) and Japhy Ryder (the poet Gary Snyder, whose work I worshipped). Japhy teaches Ray about Buddhism, hiking, mountain climbing, and how to become a fire lookout. (Full disclosure: It also contains plenty of R-rated events, but since Scout has watched his fair share of Game of Thrones, I thought he could handle it. Plus, it generated a lot of conversation.)

After reading the book, Scout had this assessment: “It adds spirituality to the things I love doing. You know, hanging out, backpacking.” He then said that he’d like to visit some key places Kerouac details in the book to see if Dharma Bums spirit still exists. I wanted to do a trip with Scout, because in kid-rearing, time speeds up exponentially the second they hit high school. And it’s hard not to worry about the limited opportunities left to share what you think are the greatest beauties of the world before you blink and they graduate.

Now 16, Scout is a quiet, creative, endurance-sport-loving, mandolin-playing—and worried—kid. His lesser concerns focus on why he can’t ski race faster and if his younger brother will get his driver’s license before he does. He is happiest on weekends, when he’s at home, running on the dozens of miles of singletrack winding through the woods in our small Colorado town. But what keeps Scout up at night are questions about his future. He wants to excel physically and academically, have friends, and enjoy life. In other words, he’s like most kids.

But ever since he was young, people have said, “That Scout. He’s on his own planet.” They usually follow up with, “I wish I could be on Scout’s planet.” For instance, he’s a little Elizabeth Gilbert’s Last American Man in his sensibilities and wishes. Among his favorite pastimes is dreaming of the gaiters he’ll hand-sew before whipping up some elk-meat pemmican to gnaw during the solo climbing trips he’s planning in the Himalayas.

As you might imagine, not all that many kids share Scout’s exuberance for such activities. And there are times when I question my husband Shawn’s and my choice to raise him with such an outdoorsy, Emersonian aesthetic. We put prime importance on outdoor sports and self-reliance. We live inside a national forest. We love it when our neighborhood bears leave paw prints on our pickup. We worship the natural world and worry about the environment. So does Scout.

Which is all the more reason to go on a Dharma Bums adventure. I’m acutely aware that this could be the last mother-son trip we ever do. Substantiating my hunch is the fact that our friends recently invited Scout to work on their fishing boat—in Alaskanext summer. That has heightened several existential questions: Have I set Scout up for the best possible adulthood? And: What if I haven’t? And: If not, what can I still do?

A road trip retracing Kerouac’s steps, from San Francisco to Berkeley to Marin County and on to Yosemite, with some city exploration, hiking, climbing, and camping along the way, just him and me, is at least…something. We planned a week at the end of July, shortly before Scout would start his junior year of high school.

After meeting the father-son Travoltas, I felt a renewed sense of the coolness of our journey. Scout seemed to as well. We were, after all, about to start the first hike we’d ever done with a trailhead at the top of a mountain. From the parking lot, we walked down, to the ocean.


Our first night in California, we walked the North Beach district of San Francisco. The stars were out, and a cool breeze blew in from the Pacific. We headed toward City Lights Booksellers, on Columbus Avenue. Lawrence Ferlinghetti founded City Lights in 1953, and it has long been a home for writers like Kerouac who pushed social norms.

I was older than Scout when I fell in love with The Dharma Bums. I picked it up in my early twenties, during my second attempt at college. When I found the novel, I connected with Ray’s hobo aesthetic and hunger for spiritual seeking. But the narrative I loved most was the one in which Japhy springs Ray from the “grooming schools for the middle-class non-identity” and takes him “prowling in the wilderness” on a climb up Mount Matterhorn in the Sierra. I hungered to find “the ecstasy of the stars,” like they did, and I marveled at how someone as inexperienced as Ray could so easily get deep into the wilderness under Japhy’s tutelage.

Once they start hiking, Ray is overcome with childlike amazement. But a hundred feet from the top of Matterhorn, he aborts the mission. “The whole purpose of mountain climbing to me isn’t to just show off you can get to the top,” Japhy says. “It’s getting out into this wild country.” Scenes like this, and Ray’s calls for a “rucksack revolution,” in which “thousands or even millions of young Americans” take up wandering, allegedly inspired just that. Even cooler, 60 years after The Dharma Bums was published, the book is inspiring Scout.

Now at City Lights, we lounge in the Poetry Room, scouring Beat-related titles. When it’s time to cash out, Scout expands his Kerouac collection, plunking The Dharma Bums precursor, On the Road, onto the counter.

After touring the Beat Museum and walking Kerouac Alley, we head to Berkeley, where we see the ghosts of homes where Kerouac and Snyder once lived, we stand on the exact location of the Free Speech movement’s birth, and we score two scalped tickets to see Scout’s favorite soft-political, barefoot, ukulele-strumming crooner, Jack Johnson, at the Greek Theater.

But soon, city claustrophobia sets in, so we head to Mount Tam to hike.


As we drop down the trail toward the bright blue Pacific, a Dharma Bums word pops into my head: compassion. As in compassion for everything, what Ray strives for in the book. I’m not going to pretend I have any real understanding of what this means. I bring it up only because, having just read about it, I feel it for Scout as we walk toward Stinson Beach. We’re on the Dharma Bums trail, yet he still seems out of sorts.

I get his sometimes unexplainable descent into despair. Another reason I conceded to the trip is because it’s so hard being a teen. It feels obtuse to list all the challenges today’s kids face, so I’ll highlight Scout’s personal list: disappearing snow, vanishing coral reefs, the island of plastic in the North Atlantic, and not knowing where he “fits.” That last item hits me hardest, because I know how hard it has always been for Scout to believe he fits in.

It’s been top-of-mind ever since we departed for our trip.

But I’m kind of speechless when I ask him what he wants to be when he grows up, and he replies, “Honestly? A pirate.”

“Ok. What else?”

“Cowboy.”

“Or…?”

“Writer.” (Shit.)

But he also lands on slightly more dependable career choices, informed by his childhood: Forester. Mountain guide. Outdoor educator.

After we reach the beach, we snack on oat bars and Scout body surfs. Then we hike back to the parking lot of Mount Tam. Even though it’s approaching dusk, we decide to hightail it to the Sierra Nevada, where we’ve planned a multiday backpacking trip. It’s not to Matterhorn Mountain—too much snow—but the Quartz Mountain Trail, which accesses a gorgeous chain of lakes just inside the Yosemite’s southwestern boundary. Scout is navigating.

“Can you ask Siri to help?” I ask as we hit the highway.

“Sure, Ma,” he says.

“Then why aren’t you?”

“One sec, Ma.”

Instead of doing the easiest and most accurate thing, he types “Yosemite” into MapQuest. Then he tries to zoom in on his cracked iPhone screen and navigate us there himself. It leads to hours of lost time we could have used to find a campground close to the park. But unpreparedness makes us more bum-like. We drive until hallucinogens of leaping deer make me pull over, and then we hastily set up camp—inside our rental car. It’s amazing how comfortably two adult-sized people can sleep fully stretched out in a Toyota Yaris. We get a solid five hours before waking up and heading to Yosemite.

Thanks to Scout’s navigating, we approach Yosemite from the west. The Quartz Mountain Trailhead is on the far southeastern side, so we have to drive through the park. We arrive and find it clogged with motorhomes, tourists, and iPhone photographers shooting towering rock.

Still, I’m happy we are driving through, because anyone who knows Scout knows that he should have been born during the golden age of the Yosemite Camp 4 dirtbag climbing revolution. Yet seeing as he is the tiniest bit passive, he only quietly mentioned, when we were still in trip planning, how vitally important it was that he visit this holy site. Scout did bring his climbing shoes, which I assumed he’d use if we found some choice granite, and now that we’re in the park, with the option to go to Yosemite Valley or continue on to the Quartz Mountain Trail, he wants to drive beneath the granite gods of up-until-now only images in photographs and documentaries: El Cap, Sentinel Dome, and Half Dome.

Approaching Camp 4, Scout shouts, “That’s it!”

I slow the car. We see it. We need to get going.

But at the intersection that will eject us onto the highway leading to the Quartz Trail, Scout asks, “Can we go back? I mean, I don’t want to mess with the schedule. It’s just…”

There’s no question. Something is different in Scout. I see it.

He hasn't shown this kind of excitement yet on our trip. All of a sudden, inspired by the enormous, gleaming walls of El Cap and the vision he has of himself one day climbing it, Scout takes the moment into his hands.

He jumps out, digs in his pack, and finds his chalk bag and shoes. Then, as I watch, Scout lopes away from the car and into the trees. He’s not going to climb the Nose or Dawn Wall, but he’s letting himself run, disappearing into the distance, where he’ll find a boulder. He’ll let himself climb, forgetting about me and about feeling uncomfortable and about his future. And when he returns, he’ll be flushed. Flushed with something that’s only his to name, but it’s clearly a new emotion on this trip, and maybe in his life.


It’s so good that I almost want to end our story with it. But we have one more item on our tick list: our backpacking trip to Chain Lakes. We bid goodbye to the park. We start our hike. And something has changed.

All the way to camp, Scout leads the way. When I start to feel down—because I do, letting myself churn over the scary world awaiting my son—he elevates me in the same way I try to elevate him. When we get to the first lake, I'm tired, so Scout sets up camp, cooks, and then sits with me, looking at the water.

There’s an island out in the middle, shaded by trees and dotted with boulders. Features on the island are reflected perfectly in the water. As we stare, Scout says, “There’s the thing, the reflection of the thing, and no thing.”

I don’t know if this is right, but it sounds like a Japanese koan, a riddle or puzzle Zen Buddhists use to untangle truths about the world and themselves.

It must be something he picked up from Japhy or Ray, who are literally here with us. I lift them out of my pack, and we read a little Dharma Bums before drifting into a soft, quiet, wilderness-induced sleep.

The next morning, neither of us feel like staying here, because we were so jazzed by the last place. First, we hike to a lake, and I watch Scout leap from enormous glacial rocks into the Sierra snowmelt–filled water. We sit together, eat lunch, and then pack up and leave. We hike out, returning to Yosemite Valley and the moment where Scout embraced his power. We head to Camp 4 and climb for a good long while to the top of Yosemite Falls.

There, standing beside Scout and looking out onto the gleaming valley, I can almost see his future.

Tracy Ross is an NMA award winning writer, author of The Source of All Things. She lives with her family at 8,000 feet in the mountains above Boulder, Colorado. Dylan Fant (@dylanfantillustration) is an illustrator living in Burlington, Vermont.

Is the Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket Really Worth It?

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It takes 259 minutes to construct each Alpha SV jacket from start to finish at Arc’teryx’s 243,610-square-foot ARC’One factory in Vancouver. It’s a 217-step process, which includes seven steps on the hood brim alone. It’s so tricky in part because the jacket involves a detailed mix of features and Gore-Tex is challenging to work with. There aren’t any redos. 

In 2016, Arc’teryx design manager Greg Grenzke and his team redesigned the Alpha SV, Arc’teryx’s flagship Gore-Tex shell, which has been around for 20 years and has a whopping $750 price tag. In the latest iteration, Grenzke says the design team found solutions to problems wearers might never have considered, from the way that oils from sunscreen, sweat, and hair products break down the jacket’s laminate to hem creep. David Gardner, the ARC’One training manager, says that an Alpha SV jacket takes twice as long to make as a comparable waterproof-breathable shell, and that’s not counting the time it takes to develop and design it.

I spent a day in Arc’teryx HQ talking with designers about the R&D and design process, then following a jacket through the whole sewing and construction process to find out what goes into making a $750 alpine climbing shell. 

The Alpha SV hadn’t been updated in five years, sothe first step was to complete a lifecycle analysis looking at the environmental impact of the jacket, from materials to manufacturing. Grenzke says that he and his team took things like recycled fabrics into account, but they decided their biggest impact was going to be designing a jacket that would last for a really long time. Longevity—both in terms of timeless design (“You want it to look good, and not out of date in five years,” he says) and tough material—was paramount.

Grenzke has photos of all the Alpha SV’s past iterations lined up in a folder on his computer, and when you look at them in chronological order, it’s like a game of telephone, where the message gets distorted the farther down the chain you move. The hood shape changes, the cut gets longer and slimmer, but the main elements remain. 

Grenzke started a quarterly check-in with the warranty department to see what problems customers were having with the jacket. He also reached out to local guides who spend 250 days a year in the original jacket. He learned where the jackets typically hinged and broke down, which is how they learned about the oil contamination problem. “Sweat breaks down the membrane, so you’ll get delamination of the back, which impacts breathability and waterproofing,” he says. To combat it, they decided to add a double layer of fabric around the neck. 

Once they’ve determined what their main goals are with the redesign, a product manager will create a design brief—a memo that includes everything from the ideal user to price and weight targets. 

The brief then goes to thedesk of an apparel designer, someone like Brylee Geddis, a wunderkind who was picked up by Arc’teryx right after graduating from fashion school. In her four years at Arc’teryx, she has helped refine the Whiteline ski and snowboard collection. She is also a ripping skier who grew up in Fernie, British Columbia, and knows what makes sense in the mountains. Geddis has a sewing machine next to her computer, which she uses to rip apart old jackets and resew them so she can see where the seams might be hard to stitch or where the fabric is used inefficiently. “Every new iteration has to be better than the old one,” she says. 

When she gets the brief, Geddis’s first step is figuring out the best material to use. Though it may seem simple, this decision has the biggest bearing on how a piece will be used. For the updated Alpha SV, apparel designers spent nearly a year testing different fabrics using a 1.5-hour-long mechanical storm test in their lab to validate waterproofing, plus a particularly sweaty gear tester. They also sent the brand’s sponsored guides and athletes out in test jackets that were Frankensteined together with left and right sides made of two different kinds of Gore-Tex to see how they held up and where they broke down. Unlike some brands, Arc’teryx doesn’t develop any shell fabrics in-house, and instead licenses everything from Gore-Tex and invests its time in product design.

For the 2016iteration of the Alpha SV, designers upgraded the face fabric from a lighter 80-denier Gore-Tex to a 100-denier one. It seems like a small tweak, but Grenzke says it holds much less water. a problem they had with the older version. “We always try to reduce the amount of water pickup, because once a jacket wets out it doesn’t breathe,” he says.

Once she's decided on a material, Geddis creates a design mockup—a detailed drawing of the final product. Then she and her five-person team map out what is essentially a recipe for a jacket: what trim will be used, which zippers, how they’ll seal the seams, etc. Geddis puts together a spec pack of fabrics, the sample sewer makes a full prototype, and then they send everything to the ARC’One factory across town. 

Producing a complete product in Vancouver is more expensive than manufacturing it overseas. (About 10 percent of the company’s products are produced in the two-year-old Canadian factory, while the rest are made in other international locations.) But for a piece as technical as the Alpha SV, the control the brand has over the entire process makes the costs worth it. “The benefit of having the factory nearby is that if they have a part that’s difficult to construct, we can drive over there and work it out quickly and easily,” Geddis says. “We can make adjustments and test them outside the next day.” She says most products go through about three iterations before the team is satisfied, but that she’s famous around the office for putting one jacket through 12 rounds of prototypes.

As Geddis and her team pull the design together, they focus on how the jacket moves on people’s bodies—what happens when you raise your arms or swivel your head. They start with simple, activity-specific Gore-Tex fit blocks, which outline the general shape of the garment and are based on fit-model sizing. Their fits have stayed consistent over the years. A men’s medium is 5 foot 10 with a 33.5-inch waist. A women’s small is 5 foot 6 with a 28-inch waist.

Then the team adapts the pattern to fit the jacket’s intended use: something worn for climbing, for instance, will need more articulation through the sleeves. The patterns are cut so your hood doesn’t block your eyes and you can reach above your head without exposing your middle. Grenzke notes that the way people layer has changed over the years so they take that into account and think about how the jacket might fit with different types of midlayers.

Next they dial in the details. On the hood and hem, they decided to use Cohaesive cord locks, which are easy to adjust with gloves on. They also rethreaded the direction of the cord locks, so it goes up inside the jacket instead of down. This prevents the loops from getting stuck on things like ice axes, and it’s also wide enough that it prevents the hem from riding up under packs and harnesses, a common problem that guides complained about.

From there they take the design to the ARC’Onefactory to run through the whole production and see what might be hard to construct at scale and what steps they might be able to do more efficiently. By this point, they’ve been working on the redesign for almost two years. 

Inside the 250,000-square-foot ARC’One factory, David Gardner, the training manager, breaks out a brick-thick binder for the Alpha SV, which outlines all the steps it takes to make the jacket in every size. Gardner says that each team can make about 30 jackets a day, and there are four teams that work on the Alpha SV. 

The construction process starts when the fabric (usually Gore-Tex and Polartec products), arrives at the north end of ARC’One. There it’s checked by a quality-control team, then rolled out onto giant cutting machines that slice pieces for four jackets at a time—that’s the optimum number to have move through the line at once, the company says. From there all the parts, from pull tabs to seam tape, are put into one package, and they’re moved to the other end of the factory where they’ll be assembled.

Gardner started here in 1998, the same year the first Alpha was manufactured, and says he’s had every job in the factory, from cutting fabric to teaching sewing. Over the years, he’s helped rearranged the factory and the process to be as efficient as possible. Everyone except the highly skilled seam tapers does multiple jobs to keep things moving through the process, and they’ve set up the floor so there’s an obvious physical flow to the work. “I used to feel like I worked in a jacket factory. Now I feel like I work in a jacket lab,” he says. 

There are 13 people on each sewing team, and they sit in a horseshoe lined by 26 sewing machines, seam tapers, and quality-control tests stations including a water blaster that shoots a pressurized stream at the fabric to check its waterproofness. Building a jacket is like shingling a roof—there’s a specific order you have to follow when putting the parts together. Every step and every minute has been thought out, but the final assembly, which takes 98 steps, feels almost like a dance. Workers switch back and forth between sewing machines and glue guns, trading spots around the horseshoe. Seam taping is the hardest job,so the most skilled person on the line stays on the seam taper, curving the external seams together. I sat down at the seam taper to try it out, and it took me almost a full minute to tape one inch. The woman who works there can tape a sleeve in a matter of seconds.

Pieces of fabric that come to the horseshoe in a plastic bin become a pocket, then a chest panel, then suddenly something that looks like a jacket. By the time it makes its way to the end of the horseshoe, it’s completed, inspected, bagged, and tagged. All those hours of design distilled down into a pound of Gore-tex and glue.